Part_II-Chap_1

Méhauté 1976
Le Méhauté, B. 1976. Introduction to Hydrodynamics and Water Waves, Springer-Verlag, New York.
Le Méhauté and Webb 1964
Le Méhauté, B., and Webb, L. M. 1964. “Periodic Gravity Waves Over a Gentle Slope at a Third Order of
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Liu 1971
Liu, P. C. 1971. “Normalized and Equilibrium Spectra of Wind-Wave in Lake Michigan,” Jour. Phys.
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Liu 1984
Liu, P.-L. F. 1984. “Wave-Current Interactions on a Slowly Varying Topography,” Journal of Geophysical
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Liu and Dalrymple 1978
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Longuet-Higgins 1952
Longuet-Higgins, M.S. 1952. “On the Statistical Distribution of the Wave Heights of Sea Waves,” Jour.
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Longuet-Higgins 1953
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Vol 245, pp 535-581.
Longuet-Higgins 1957
Longuet-Higgins, M.S. 1957. “Statistical Analysis of a Random, Moving Surface,” Phil Trans. Roy. Soc.
London, Series A, Vol 249, pp 321-387.
Longuet-Higgins 1962
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Longuet-Higgins 1970
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1970. “Longshore Currents Generated by Obliquely Incident Sea Waves,” Journal
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Longuet-Higgins 1974
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1974. “On the Mass, Momentum, Energy, and Circulation of a Solitary Wave,”
Proc. Roy. Soc. London, Series A, Vol 337, pp 1-13.
Longuet-Higgins 1975a
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1975a. “Longshore Currents Generated by Obliquely Incident Sea Waves,” Journal
of Geophysical Research, Vol 75, pp 6778-6789.
Longuet-Higgins 1975b
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1975b. “On the Joint Distribution of the Periods and Amplitudes of Sea Waves,”
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Longuet-Higgins 1976
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1976. “Recent Developments in the Study of Breaking Waves,” Proc. 15th Coastal
Engr. Conf., Vol 1, pp 441-460.
Longuet-Higgins 1980
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1980. “On the Joint Distribution of Heights of Sea Waves: Some Effects of
Nonlinearity and Finite Band Width,” Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol 85, pp 1519-1523.
Longuet-Higgins 1983
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1983. “On the Joint Distribution of Wave Period and Amplitudes in a Random
Wave Field,” Proc. Roy. Soc. London, Series A, Vol 389, pp 241-258.
Longuet-Higgins 1984
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1984. “Statistical Properties of Wave Groups in a Random Sea State,” Phil. Trans.
Roy. Soc. London, Series A, Vol 310, pp 219-250.
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Longuet-Higgins 1985
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1985. “A New Way to Calculate Steep Gravity Waves,” The Ocean Surface,
Y. Toba and H. Mitsuyasu, eds., Univ. of Tokyo Press, pp 1-15.
Longuet-Higgins and Fenton 1974
Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and Fenton, J. D. 1974. “On Mass, Momentum, Energy, and Calculation of a
Solitary Wave,” Proc. Roy. Soc. London, Series A, Vol 340, pp 471-493.
Longuet-Higgins and Fox 1977
Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and Fox, M. J. H. 1977. “Theory of the Almost Highest Wave: the Inner Solution,”
Jour. Fluid Mech., Vol 80, pp 721-741.
Longuet-Higgins and Stewart 1962
Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and Stewart, R. W. 1962. “Radiation Stress and Mass Transport in Gravity Waves,
with Application to ‘Surf Beats’,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol 13, No. 4, pp 481-504.
Longuet-Higgins and Stewart 1964
Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and Stewart, R. W. 1964. “Radiation Stresses in Water Waves: A Physical
Discussion with Applications,” Deep Sea Research, Vol 11, pp 529-562.
Mei 1991
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Miche 1944
Miche, R. 1944. “Mouvements Ondulatoires des Mers en Profondeur Constante on Decroisante,” Annales
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Michell 1893
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Miles 1979
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Miles 1980
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Miles 1981
Miles, J. W. 1981. “The Korteweg de Vries Equation: A Historical Essay,” Jour. Fluid Mech., Vol 106, pp
131-147.
Milne-Thompson 1976
Milne-Thompson, L. M. 1976. Theoretical Hydrodynamics, The MacMillan Press Ltd., London.
Mitsuyasu 1971
Mitsuyasu, H. 1971. “On the Form of Fetch-Limited Wave Spectrum,” Coastal Engr. in Japan, Vol 14,
pp 7-14.
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Mitsuyasu 1972
Mitsuyasu, H. 1972. “The One-Dimensional Wave Spectra at Limited Fetch,” Proc. 13th Coastal Engr.
Conf., Vol 1, pp 289-306.
Mitsuyasu et al. 1975
Mitsuyasu, H. et al. 1975. “Observations of the Directional spectrum of Ocean Waves Using a Cloverleaf
Buoy,” Jour. Phys. Ocean., Vol 5, pp 750-760.
Morison et al. 1950
Morison, J. R., et al. 1950. “The Forces Exerted by Surface Waves on Piles,” Petroleum Trans. AIME,
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Munk 1949
Munk, W. H. 1949. “The Solitary Wave Theory and Its Application to Surf Problems,” Annals New York
Acad. Sci., Vol 51, pp 376-423.
Myrhaug and Kjeldsen 1986
Myrhaug, D. and Kjeldsen, S. P. 1986. “Steepness and Asymmetry of Extreme Waves and the Highest
Waves in Deep Water,” Intl. Jour. Ocean Engr., Vol 13, pp 549-568.
Nishimura et al. 1977
Nishimura, H., et al. 1977. “Higher Order Solutions of Stokes and Cnoidal Waves,” Jour. Faculty Engr.
Univ. of Tokyo, Series B, Vol 34, pp 267-293.
Ochi 1973
Ochi, M. K. 1973. “On Prediction of Extreme Values,” Jour. Ship Res., Vol 1, pp 29-37.
Ochi 1982
Ochi, M. K. 1982. “Stochastic Analysis and Probabilistic Prediction of Random Seas,” Advances in
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Ochi and Hubble 1976
Ochi, M. K. and Hubble, E. N. 1976. “Six Parameter Wave Spectra,” Proc. 15th Coastal Engr. Conf., Vol 1,
pp 301-328.
Ottesen-Hansen 1980
Ottesen-Hansen, N.-E. 1980. “Correct Reproduction of Group-Induced Long Waves,” Proc. 17th Coastal
Engr. Conf., Vol 1, pp 784-800.
Peregrine 1972
Peregrine, D. H. 1972. “Equations for Water Waves and the Approximation Behind Them,” Waves on
Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport, R. E. Meyer, ed., Academic Press, pp 95-121.
Peregrine 1976
Peregrine, D. H. 1976. “Interaction of Water Waves and Currents,” Advances in Applied Mechanics,
Academic Press, New York, Vol 16, pp 9-117.
Phillips 1958
Phillips, O. M. 1958. “On the Generation of Waves by Turbulent Wind,” Jour. Fluid Mech., Vol 2, pp 417-
445.
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Phillips 1977
Phillips, O. M. 1977. The Dynamics of the Upper Ocean, 2nd ed., Cambridge University Press.
Pierson and Moskowitz 1964
Pierson, W. J., and Moskowitz, L. 1964. “A Proposed Spectral Form for Fully-Developed Wind Sea Based
on the Similarity Law of S. A. Kitaigorodoskii,” Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol 69, pp 5181-5203.
Price and Bishop 1974
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Rayleigh 1876
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