História da feijoada Feijoada, um prato brasileiro - Brasil Escola

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História da feijoada
Transformada em prato nacional, a feijoada como a conhecemos teria surgido apenas no século XIX,
tornando-se signo da brasilidade com os modernistas.
A feijoada foi transformada em prato típico nacional possivelmente no século XX
Pesquise aqui
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A feijoada é um dos pratos típicos mais conhecidos
e populares da culinária brasileira. Composta
basicamente por feijão preto, diversas partes do
porco, linguiça, farinha e o acompanhamento de
verduras e legumes, ela é comumente apontada
como uma criação culinária dos africanos
escravizados que vieram para o Brasil. Mas seria
mesmo essa a história da feijoada?
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Historiadores e especialistas da culinária indicam que
esse tipo de prato – que mistura vários tipos de
carnes, legumes e verduras – é milenar. Remonta
possivelmente da área mediterrânica à época do
Império Romano, segundo CâmaraCascudo. Pratos similares na cozinha latina seriam
o cozido, em Portugal; o cassoulet, na França; apaella, à base de arroz, na Espanha; e a casouela e
o bollito misto, na Itália.
Mas a feijoada tem as especificidades da culinária brasileira. O feijão preto é originário da
América do Sul e era chamado pelos guaranis de comanda, comaná ou cumaná. A farinha de
mandioca também tem origem americana, sendo adotada como componente básico da
alimentação pelos africanos e europeus que vieram para o Brasil. Roças de feijão e mandioca
eram plantadas em diversos locais, inclusive nos espaços domésticos, em torno das residências,
principalmente das classes populares.
Segundo Carlos Alberto Dória, a origem da feijoada estaria no “feijão gordo”, o ensopado da
leguminosa acrescido de toucinho e carne seca. A feijoada seria esse “feijão gordo” enriquecido
ao extremo, com linguiças, legumes, verduras e carnes de porco.
A inclusão do último ingrediente acima indicado levou Câmara Cascudo a questionar se a
feijoada seria invenção dos africanos escravizados: sendo boa parte dos africanos seguidora do
islamismo, como poderiam ter incluído a carne de porco no prato, já que a religião interdita seu
consumo?
Não pare agora... Tem mais depois da publicidade ;)
O famoso folclorista brasileiro indica que a feijoada como a conhecemos, composta de feijão,
carnes, hortaliças e legumes, seria uma combinação criada apenas no século XIX em restaurantes
frequentados pela elite escravocrata do Brasil. Sua difusão teria se dado em hotéis e pensões,
principalmente a partir do Rio de Janeiro.
Porém, a propagação da ideia da feijoada como prato nacional seria consequência das ações
dos modernistas para construir uma identidade nacional brasileira, segundo Carlos Alberto
Dória. A feijoada seria um dos signos da brasilidade, caracterizada pelo tema da antropofagia,
da deglutição cultural que permeou a formação da nação brasileira.
Mário de Andrade apresentou essa perspectiva em seu conhecido livro “Macunaíma”, de 1924,
durante um festim na casa do fazendeiro Venceslau Pietro Pietra, no qual participou o anti-herói.
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Escrito por: Tales dos Santos Pinto
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Por Tales Pinto
Mestre em História
Gostaria de fazer a referência deste
texto em um trabalho escolar ou
acadêmico? Veja:
PINTO, Tales dos Santos. "História da
feijoada"; Brasil Escola. Disponível em:
https://brasilescola.uol.com.br/historia/hi
feijoada.htm. Acesso em 07 de abril de
2025.
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