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Padrão de Crochê para Boneca

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This is a pattern to crochet
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READ ME& I'm the licence ! I
Few words before starting :3
Hello
,
and thank you for being about to try this pattern !
It was made with lot of love , and I hope it will be useful
This pattern was prepared by me , Chiara CR EMON aka @ Chi a crafts ,
and Was Kindly shared for free .
Please Do Not distribute this pattern yourself , and give credits to
the out her when posting online !
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Tintin
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Please insert
" Pattern by @ Chi a crafts
"
and use the hashtag # chin crafts patterns
Material used 
★ 3.5 mm hook 
★ 3.0 mm hook 
★ 2.5 mm hook 
★ Tapestry needle 
★ Black safety eyes size 8.0 mm 
★ Stuffing (poly fiber fill is the best, otherwise 
some cotton wool will do) 
★ Light peach yarn size 3-3.5 
★ Bright pink yarn size 3-3.5 
★ Black yarn size 3-3.5 
★ Purple yarn size 3-3.5 
★ Bordeaux yarn size 2-2.5 
★ White yarn size 2 
★ Blue yarn size 2 
★ Violet yarn size 3-3.5 
   
Bordeaux
Light peach f
d
Whitey Here you
heh seethe thickness difference!
Purple Maintaining the proportions is important
/
,
Violet ↳
Black 3-3.5
Bordeaux 2.5yd
Bluet Black
Bright pinks
Blue 2 -
Whites
-
Light peach 3-3.5 -
Bright pink 3-3.5 -
Violet 's -3.5L
Body 
Work the whole body (legs, torso, arms and ears) using                   
light peach yarn and a 2.0 hook. 
Legs 
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) 
R2-R13: 6 sc (6) 
For the first leg: make a slip stitch and cut the yarn                       
(leave a long tail in case some sewing should be                   
needed). 
Don’t cut the yarn after making the second leg instead,                   
you’ll keep on working from there to join the legs 
Torso 
First, we Join the legs 
R14: 3 sc in 2nd leg, chain 2, 6 sc in 1st leg, 2 sc in back                                 
side of the chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16) 
R15: 16 sc (16) 
Now we’re enlarging to create the booty! 
R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18) 
R17: 18 sc (18) 
R18: 18 sc (18) 
R19: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16) 
Booty finished :) 
R20: 16 sc (16) 
R21: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14) 
R22: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12) 
R23: (4 sc, dec) x2 (10) 
R24: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8) 
R25: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6) 
Neck 
Now 2 rounds for the neck 
R26-R27: 6 sc (6) 
Neck done, now we start the head 
Head 
R28: 6 inc (12) 
R29: 12 inc (24) 
Flower
detail
L there was htt space in the last
page )
y
Body 
Work the whole body (legs, torso, arms and ears) using                   
light peach yarn and a 2.0 hook. 
Legs 
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) 
R2-R13: 6 sc (6) 
For the first leg: make a slip stitch and cut the yarn                       
(leave a long tail in case some sewing should be                   
needed). 
Don’t cut the yarn after making the second leg instead,                   
you’ll keep on working from there to join the legs 
Torso 
First, we Join the legs 
R14: 3 sc in 2nd leg, chain 2, 6 sc in 1st leg, 2 sc in back                                 
side of the chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16) 
R15: 16 sc (16) 
Now we’re enlarging to create the booty! 
R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18) 
R17: 18 sc (18) 
R18: 18 sc (18) 
R19: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16) 
Booty finished :) 
R20: 16 sc (16) 
R21: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14) 
R22: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12) 
R23: (4 sc, dec) x2 (10) 
R24: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8) 
R25: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6) 
Neck 
Now 2 rounds for the neck 
R26-R27: 6 sc (6) 
Neck done, now we start the head 
Head 
R28: 6 inc (12) 
R29: 12 inc (24) 
Complete body figure for reference C this is hot the real site , it's way bigger ! )
} 44,45 , 46
→ 43
→ 42
→ 41
- 40
- 39
- 38
- 37
- 36
- 35
- 34
- s ,
→ 32
-3 ,
- . .
⇒÷ .
3225726
→ 23
→ 22
→ 21
→ 20
→ Is
→ to
→ 17
→ 16
→ 15
→ 14
→ 13
→ 12
→ It
→ to
→ s
→ 8
→ 7
→ 6
→ 5
→ 4
→ 3
→ 2
→ I
R30: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36) 
At this point, your stitch marker is probably somewhere                 
behind the doll’s back (use the booty as a reference to                     
understand which is the front and which is the back).                   
You must now make enough stitches to position the                 
stitch marker right on the left side of the doll before                     
moving on with the next round.  
If you’re indeed on the back, this operation should not                   
increase the number of rounds you count on the face of                     
the doll. However, if you were somewhere just past the                   
left shoulder, you are indeed adding one round to the                   
face. It won’t impact a lot the look of the doll, you just                         
have to keep in mind to place the eyes one round higher                       
than indicated :) 
Why are we making this? Because we’re about to give                   
an asymmetrical shape to the head to make the face… if                     
you don't place the stitch marker correctly, you risk to                   
end up with a doll facing left, right, or, even worse, with                       
the head completely twisted around! 
[Just as an indication, I made 11 additional sc and                   
placed the stitch marker on the last stitch before moving                   
on with the next round] 
R31: (1 sc, inc) x 9, 18 sc (45) 
R32-R33: 45 sc (45) 
R34: (2 sc, dec) x 7, 17 sc (38) 
R35-R40: 38 sc (38) 
R41: (17 sc, dec) x 2 (36) 
Stop and place the safety eyes between round 35 and                   
round 36 8 sc apart. Feel free to modify the position to                       
where you feel suites at best the personality of your doll.                     
I personally think that placing the eyes very low and                   
quite apart gives a sweeter look :) 
If you’d like to make an embroidery for the eyes, that’s                     
the best moment to do it! 
R42: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30) 
R43: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24) 
Keep stuffing while you close the head! 
R44: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18) 
R45: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12) 
R46: 6 dec (6) 
Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a                     
tapestry needle, pass the tail through all the loops of the                     
last round, and pull. Make a knot and hide the yarn                     
inside the doll’s body. 
Make enough stitches
to move the stitch marker
from here to there !
Stitch marker Back
-
Left side
Front#if! ← Bootyi'¥
Arms 
Make two 
R1: 5 sc in magic ring (5) 
R2-R10: 5 sc (5) 
At the end of each arm, cut the yarn leaving a long tail                         
for sewing. 
Sew the arms so that the upper part corresponds to                   
round 23 of the body (right below the neck). 
Ears 
Chain 2, then make 3 stitches in the second loop from                     
hook. 
And a ear is done! Make 2. 
Leave a long tail for sewing (tail 2). Also, I find it handy                         
to leave a long tail at the beginning as well, before                     
starting the chain (tail 1). 
To sew the ears, insert tail 1 at the same row where the                         
eyes are, 5 stitches apart from the eye. Sew the rest                     
accordingly, trying to keep the shape of the ear round. 
 
Dress 
Top part 
Work with bright pink yarn and 3.0 hook. 
This part is worked in rows. 
Row1: chain 5 (4) 
Row2: 4 inc (8) 
Row3: 8 inc (16) 
Row4: inc, chain 2, skip 4, 6 sc, chain 2, skip 4, inc (14) 
Row5: 14 sc (14) 
Then, stitch all around the front part of the dress using a                       
2.5 hook and violet yarn (I made 15 stitches overall). 
Sleeves 
Work with pink yarn and 3.0 hook. 
Sleeves are worked in rounds. 
Start crocheting the sleeves in the hole left by (chain 2,                     
skip 4) in Row4 of the top part. You should start with 8                         
sc, which means you must make 1 stitch in each loop of                       
3 Sc in second loop from hook
Chain 2
AT
+
stiffens
the chain, 1 stitch in each of the 4 stitches skipped + 2                         
stitches in the junctures between the two. Overall,you’ll                 
get the 8 sc of round 1 
R1: 8 sc (8) 
R2: (3 sc, inc) x 2 (10) 
R3-R4: 10 sc (10) 
Skirt 
Work with bordeaux yarn and 2.5 hook 
It starts in rows, but we’ll join the ends later on and                       
work in rounds. 
Row1-Row4: make a rectangular stripe 18 sc long (18) 
Join the end and the beginning of the stripe, and start                     
working in rounds 
R5-R7: 18 sc (18) 
R8: dec, 16 sc (17) 
Now, we’re about to start cutting the dress in order to                     
make it asymmetrical and leave the space where to                 
show the white part. If you shall feel it’s too                   
complicated, just drop the white part, and make a few                   
more rounds of 17 sc. Otherwise, you can proceed with                   
the instructions. 
R9: 11 sc, slip stitch 
Turn and start working in the other direction (don’t                 
make the additional loop at the end of the row) 
R10: 9 sc, slip stitch 
Turn and start working in the other direction (don’t                 
make the additional loop at the end of the row) 
R11: 7 sc, slip stitch 
Turn and start working in the other direction (don’t                 
make the additional loop at the end of the row) 
R12: 5 sc, slip stitch 
Turn and start working in the other direction (don’t                 
make the additional loop at the end of the row) 
R13: 3 sc, slip stitch 
Pull out the yarn and leave a long tail for sewing. 
Skirt lower layer 
Work with white yarn and 2.5 hook. 
If your yarn is not very thin, don’t try this, it will be a                           
mess. 
R1: chain 17 
Join the two extremities and start working in rounds. 
R2-R5: 17 sc (17) 
Roust
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This part should fit inside the bordeaux part. 
Sew it on the inner face of the skirt only, to avoid the                         
stitches to be visible from the outside 
Blue part 
Work with blue yarn and 2.5 hook. 
This part is worked in rows. 
Row1: chain 23 
Row2-Row8: 22 sc (22) 
Bordeaux stripe 
It’s just a long chain, make it as long as you like 
 
Purple stripe 
It’s just a long chain + all the way back with slip stitches.                         
Make it as long as you like. 
 
 
How to sew the dress to the             
body 
First of all, put the Pink part on. Sew the lower part to                         
the body so it will stay in the correct position. If needed,                       
you could also sew a bit the sleeves to the body to keep                         
the arms lower. 
Then, you can put on the red skirt (inside which you                     
should have already sewed the white part, if any). The                   
upper part of the skirt should touch the lower part of the                       
pink shirt. Better if you sew it to the body to keep it in                           
place. 
Then, roll the blue part around the doll. The upper part                     
of the blue stripe should be positioned almost under the                   
doll’s armpits. Sew it on the back. It doesn’t have to be                       
very tight as we’re about to add the bordeaux stripe. 
Last touch: tie the bordeaux stripe in the middle of the                     
blue part. You can twist it a couple of times for a better                         
look. This should be tight to accentuate the shape, so                   
pull hard! 
 
-
÷
Hair 
Work with black yarn and 3.5 hook. 
First chain 17. 
You’re going to create one hair in each loop of this chain.                       
Then, you’ll get to sew the hairs one by one to the head                         
(feeling lucky, eh?) 
You should make (in this order): 
R1: chain 17 (main chain) 
R2: chain 16 in second loop from hook, go back to the                       
main chain with 15 sc, make a stitch in loop after 
R3-R4: chain 8 in second loop from hook, go back to the                       
main chain with 7 sc, make a stitch in loop after 
R5-R15: chain 16 in second loop from hook, go back to                     
the main chain with 15 sc, make a stitch in loop after 
R16: chain 6 in second loop from hook, go back to the                       
main chain with 5 sc, make a stitch in loop after 
How to position and sew the           
hair on the head 
R5 is the hair that goes behind the left year. R3-R4 are                       
some shorter hairs to fill the part below R5 when it will                       
be bent. R16 is the smaller hair in the middle of the                       
forehead. 
Pull a piece of yarn through all the loops of the main                       
chain, pull and make a knot. 
First sew the central part of the wig on the top of the                         
head (pay attention that the hairs should be in the                   
correct position). Then you can proceed with sewing it                 
in the middle and then in the lower part. Maybe the                     
graphic instructions are more explicit :) 
 
Flower 
Work with white yarn and 2.0 hook 
Start with 5 sc in magic ring. 
For each sc in the magic ring make: 
chain 3, sc in second loop from hook, double crochet,                   
slip stitch in next sc of the magic ring. 
 
 
The number of
heirs
needed depends oh the yarn you
I 2 3 4 56 t 8 9 to 11 12 13 1415 I 6
use and how you work . Try it by lining up the heirs around the
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② first sew on top
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Bye - bye!↳
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I unit wait to see the result ! ! !

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