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France • Nîmes & around • Alès & around • Montpellier • Sète • Agde • Béziers • Narbonne & around • Carcassonne • Parc National des Cévennes • Gorges du Tarn • Parc Naturel Régional des Grands Causses • Mende & around • Roquefort • Roussillon • Perpignan & around • Têt Valley • Côte Vermeille COVERAGE INCLUDES: Languedoc- Roussillon (PDF Chapter) Edition 11th Edition, March 2015 Pages 48 Page Range 713–760 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here PDF © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. Best Places to Eat ¨ Jardin des Sens (p730) ¨ Auberge du Vieux Puits (p736) ¨ Saveurs et Sens (p729) ¨ Le Cerf à Moustache (p719) ¨ Bistro d’Alex (p759) Best Places to Stay ¨ Baudon de Mauny (p728) ¨ Le Relais des Chartreuses (p755) ¨ La Buissonière (p722) ¨ Château de la Caze (p747) ¨ Château de Palaja (p739) POP 2.8 MILLION When to Go Apr Hike in the hills of the Cévennes before the summer heat and crowds. Aug Head for Sète to watch the annual joutes nautiques (water-jousting). Sep Celebrate the vendange (grape harvest) with vineyard parties and viticultural festivals. F DNOSAJJMAMJ Montpellier °C/°F Temp Rainfall Inches/mm 0 5/125 6/150 2/50 3/75 4/100 1/25 10/50 0/32 -10/14 30/86 40/104 20/68 Languedoc-Roussillon Why Go? Stretching along France’s southwestern coastline from Provence to the Pyrenees, Languedoc feels like a country in its own right. Sultry and sun-baked, it’s been a strategic border since Roman times, and the area is littered with his- torical reminders, from Roman aqueducts to hilltop Cathar castles. These days it’s best known for its vineyards, which produce a third of all French wine, and its busy beaches, which sprawl all along its Mediterranean coast. Modern Languedoc-Roussillon is really three areas in one, each with its own distinct landscape and character. Bas-Languedoc is the coastal area, home to the biggest beaches and the cities of Montpellier and Nîmes. Inland lies the high, wild country of the Haut-Languedoc and its hills, caves, gorges and forests, exemplified by the wild Parc Na- tional des Cévennes. To the west is Roussillon, which shares close ties with Catalonia just across the Spanish border – not least a passion for rugby, bullfights and summer ferias. Includes ¨ Nîmes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 716 Alès & Around . . . . . . .723 Montpellier . . . . . . . . .724 Sète . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .732 Agde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .734 Béziers . . . . . . . . . . . . .734 Narbonne . . . . . . . . . . .734 Carcassonne . . . . . . . .736 Gorges du Tarn . . . . . .746 Roquefort . . . . . . . . . . 750 Perpignan . . . . . . . . . . 751 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n H iG H liG H T S # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ ] \ ] \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ R R #z #V PR O VE N CE AR D ÈC H E LO ZÈ RE G AR D TA RN CA N TA L AV EY RO N H AU TE -L O IR E La c Pa re lo up G or ge d e l’A rd èc he R és er ve N at ur el le Pa rc N at ur el R ég io na l d es G ra nd s Ca us se s Pa rc N at ur el R ég io na l d es V ol ca ns d 'A uv er gn e Pa rc N at io na l d es Cé ve nn es Tarno n Ca na l d e S ylv eré al Ga rd Av ey ro n Tarn Jo nt e Ta rn Do ur bi e Héra ult Do ur bi eL ot Gr an d R hô ne Petit Rhône Alli er Tr uy ère Rhône Ar dèc he Tar n Rhôn e Lo t Go rge s d e la Tr uyè re La Ma rge ride Go rge s d e l' All ier Ca us se M éj ea n Go rg es d e l'A rd èc he Go rge s d e la Do urb ie Cau sse No ir Ca us se du La rza c Va llé es Cé ve no le s Ca us se d e M en de Le s G or ge s du G ar do n Au ve rgn e Ca us se d e Sa uv et er re M on t A ig ou al (1 56 7m ) M on t L oz èr e (1 69 9m ) C re is se ls S te -E ul al ie de C er no n V er gè ze C en dr as A lè s R od ez C ol lia s U zè s S t- Je an du G ar d Le M as S ou be yr an R us sa n Le R oz ie r S te -E ul al ie -e n- M ar ge ri de Fl or ac S te - Én im ie S te -L uc ie Lo dè ve Le M on as tie r M ar ve jo ls A ur ill ac La M al èn e M en de Is pa gn ac G an ge s Le V ig an M ey ru ei s A nd uz e A ig ue s- M or te s A ub en as B al si èg es N îm es C hâ te au de P ey re la de R és er ve de B is on s 0¸D9 81 0¸D9 99 #÷ #÷ Pa rc d u G év au da n #÷ #÷ 0¸D9 98 0¸D9 07 0¸N1 02 0¸N1 04 /·A 7 0¸D5 90 0¸D9 21 0¸D9 96 /·D4 8 0¸D9 99 0¸D9 86 0¸RN1 13 /·N 9 /·N8 8 /·A7 5 0¸N1 06 0¸D9 86 0¸N1 40 /·N8 8 0¸D90 7b 0¸D9 92 /·D3 2 /·D1 7 /·D2 5 /·A7 5 /·A7 5 0¸N1 06 /·N8 8 #5 Vi ad uc d e M ill au M on tp el lie r # 1 Po nt d u G ar d #3 #2 G or ge s du T ar n #4 Pa rc N at io na l de s C év en ne s 0 40 km 0 20 m ile s #e #z #7 Ro qu ef or t D Av ig no n (1 km ) La ng ue do c- R ou ss ill on H ig hl ig ht s 1 S oa ki ng u p th e ar t a nd a rc hi te ct ur e of M on tp el lie r ( p7 24 ) 2 P ad dl in g a ca no e th ro ug h th e G or ge s du Ta rn (p 74 7) 3 M ar ve lli ng a t th e ar ch ite ct ur al am bi tio n of th e Po nt du G ar d aq ue du ct (p 72 1) 4 F ol lo w in g in th e fo ot st ep s of R ob er t lo ui s St ev en so n in th e Pa rc N at io na l de s Cé ve nn es (p 74 1) 5 D riv in g ac ro ss Si r N or m an F os te r’s fu tu ris tic V ia du c de M ill au (p 74 9) 6 T ra ve lli ng b ack to th e M id dl e Ag es am on g la ng ue do c’ s cr um bl in g Ca th ar fo rt re ss es (p 75 6) Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n H iG H liG H T S : : : : # ## # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # \ \\ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ ] \ \ \ \ \ \ \ R # # # V V V SP AI N H ÉR AU LT AU D E PY RÉ N ÉE S- O RI EN TA LE S Ét an g de Va cc ar ès M ED IT ER R AN EA N SE A Pa rc N at ur el R ég io na l d e Ca m ar gu e Pa rc N at ur el R ég io na l d u H au t- La ng ue do c Ca na l d u M id i Or bi eu T êt Te ch Orbie l Au de La C ata lan e Cô te Ve rm eil le M on ta gn e N oi r Va llé e de la T êt M as si f d u Ca ni go u Va llée de l'O rb Va llé e du T ec h P Y R É N É E S M on t C an ig ou (2 78 4m ) Pa ul ill es N ar bo nn e Pa la va s- le s- Fl ot s V er ne t- le s- B ai ns La G ra nd e M ot te B an yu ls Le C ap d' A gd e C ol lio ur e Po rt -V en dr es C ar no n A gd e M az am et Ta ut av el Pr ad es S èt e B éz ie rs Pe rp ig na n C an et - Pl ag e Pr ei xa n C er bè re C ol om bi er s C ar ca ss on ne Es ta ge Vi lle fr an ch e de C on fle nt C hâ te au d e Q ué rib us C hâ te au d' A gu ila r C hâ te au d e Pe yr ep er tu se #÷ #÷ 0¸D90 9A 0¸D1 18 0¸D9 00 0¸D6 27 0¸D1 15 0¸D1 17 0¸D6 12 /·A 9 /·A 9 /·D1 3 /·D 2 /·D 5 /·A6 1 0¸N1 16 R és er ve A fr ic ai ne de S ig ea n /·D 2 #\ #÷ #6 C at ha r Fo rt re ss es D Ch ât ea u de Pu ila ur en s ( 12 km ); Ch ât ea u de M on ts ég ur (6 3k m ) #8 C ér et 7 T ak in g a pu ng en t to ur a ro un d th e ch ee se -fi lle d ca ve s of Ro qu ef or t ( p7 50 ) 8 A dm ire in gt he fa nt as tic m od er n ar t c ol le ct io n at th e M us ée d ’A rt M od er ne (p 75 5) in C ér et Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n G e T T iN G A R o u N D Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n N îM e S BAS-LANGUEDOC The broad, flat plains of Bas-Languedoc boast all of the Languedoc’s main towns, as well as its best beaches, richest Roman remains and (arguably) its finest wines. During the Middle Ages, Bas-Languedoc was largely the property of the counts of Toulouse, but it now forms the modern-day départements of Gard and Hérault. 8Getting Around A bus journey anywhere within the Gard départe- ment costs a flat-rate €1.50. Full timetables are available from Edgard (www.edgard-transport. fr). As always, trains are the fastest way to get between the major towns. Nîmes POP 146,500 Nîmes is a busy commercial city these days, but two millennia ago it was one of the most important cities of Roman Gaul – a fact that’s made clear by the city’s collection of Roman buildings, including a magnificent amphithe- atre and 2000 year-old temple. Though not quite as dynamic as Montpel- lier, Nîmes is nonetheless an attractive city, with plenty of museums and markets to ex- plore, as well as a host of high-profile festivals throughout the year. It’s also famous for its contribution to global couture – namely the hard-wearing twill fabric known as serge de Nîmes, traditionally worn by agricultural la- bourers, and nowadays known to all as denim. FAST FACTS ¨ Area 27,376 sq km ¨ Local industry winemaking, agriculture, tourism ¨ Signature drink red wine # # # ÿ ÿ ÿ #ò # # #æ æ æ # ## â ââ # # # ï ï # # # # # # # # # # # # Ü ý ú û ý ú ú û ú ú ú ú Esplanade Charles de Gaulle Sq de la Couronne Pl du Château Pl aux Herbes Pl de la Calade Pl de l'Horloge Pl du Marché Square du 11 Novembre 1918 Pl d'Assas Pl des Arènes Pl de la Maison Carrée Bd Alphonse Daudet Vie illeR É col e R d e la R des Arènes R de la Cité Foulc R Alexan dre Ducro s R de la Ré pu bl iq ue R d es Ch ap eli er sR Fresque R du Grand Couvent R de l'Étoile R N otre Dam e R du Chap itre G rand'Rue R des H alles R J ea n R eb ou l R Porte de France R G uizot R d e l a M ade lein e R Roussy R É mi le J am ais R de l'Aspic R de l'Hôtel Dieu R Big ot R Nationale R Grety R de s Gr effe s R de l'Agau R Géné ral Per rier R Grizot R M onja rdin Bd de Bruxe lles Q de la Fontai ne R S t-C asto r R Littré Bd Victor Hugo Bd Gambetta B d de Pra gue Bd d e l a L ib ér at io n Bd d es A rè nes B d A m ira l C ou rb et Av Feuchères R Auguste Les Arènes Entrance Église St- Baudille Tourist Office 17 16 3 14 15 9 13 12 10 11 19 18 5 42 8 7 6 1 Les Arènes R Charles Babut Viole tte 4 3 1 C B C 2 4 3 1 2 B A A D D Nîmes !0!0 ‚ #e 0 200 m0 0.1 miles D (200m) (200m) #› #£ D Museé des Beaux- Arts (150m); Marché aux Fleurs (1.4km) DBrocante Jean Jaurès (600m); Marché Jean Jaurès (600m) D Le Nocturne (100m) D Jardins de la Fontaine (230m); Auberge de Jeunesse (2.5km); Les Cabanes Oxyzen (5km) D Les Jardins Secrets (300m) D La Clapeyrole (4mi) 716 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n S iG H T S Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n N îM e S 1 Sights oLes Arènes RoMAN SiTeS (www.arenes-nimes.com; place des Arènes; adult/ child €9/7; h9am-8pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year) Nîmes’ twin-tiered amphitheatre is the best-preserved in France. Built around 100 BC, the arena would have seated 24,000 spectators and staged gladiatorial contests and public executions, and it still provides an impressive venue for gigs, events and sum- mer bullfights. An audioguide provides con- text as you explore the arena, seating areas, stairwells and corridors (rather marvellously known to Romans as vomitories), and after- wards you can view replicas of gladiatorial armour and original bullfighters’ costumes in the museum. At 133m long, 101m wide and 21m high, with an oval arena encircled by two tiers of arches and columns, the amphitheatre is a testament to the skill and ingenuity of Roman architects. Despite being adapted, plunderedfor stone and generally abused over many centuries, the structure of the amphitheatre is still largely intact, and it’s not hard to im- agine what the atmosphere must have been like when it was filled to capacity. The seating is divided into four tiers and 34 rows; the posher you were, the closer you sat to the centre. The amphitheatre’s oval design meant everyone had an unrestricted view. A system of trap-doors and hoist-lifts beneath the arena enabled animals and com- batants to be put into position during the show. Originally, the amphitheatre would have had a canopy that protected spectators from the weather. Since 2012 a project has been underway to clean limescale and pollution stains from the exterior, so there may be scaffolding when you visit. Maison Carrée RoMAN SiTeS (place de la Maison Carrée; adult/child €5.50/4; h10am-8pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year) Constructed in gleaming limestone around AD 5, this temple was built to honour Emper- or Augustus’ two adopted sons. Despite the name, the Maison Carrée (Square House) is actually rectangular – to the Romans, ‘square’ simply meant a building with right angles. The building is beautifully preserved, com- plete with stately columns and triumphal steps; it’s worth paying the admission to see the interior, but probably worth skipping the lame 3D film. Jardins de la Fontaine RoMAN SiTeS (Tour Magne adult/child €3.20/2.70; hTour Magne 9.30am-6.30pm) The elegant Jardins de la Fon- taine conceal several Roman remains, most notably the 30m-high Tour Magne, raised around 15 BC. Built as a display of imperial power, it’s the largest of a chain of towers that once punctuated the city’s 7km-long Roman ramparts. At the top of its 140 steps, there’s an orientation table to help you interpret the panorama over Nîmes. Elsewhere around the gardens are the Source de la Fontaine – once the site of a spring, temple and baths – and the crumbling Temple de Diane, located in the gardens’ northwest corner. Carré d’Art MuSeuM (www.carreartmusee.com; place de la Maison Car- rée; permanent collection free, exhibitions adult/ Nîmes æ Top Sights 10 La Petite Fadette ..................................... B1 1 Les Arènes ............................................... C4 11 Le Cerf à Moustache ...............................B3 12 Les Halles ................................................. B1 æ Sights 13 L'Imprévu .................................................A2 2 Carré d'Art ............................................... A2 14 L'Oustaù Nadal ........................................C2 3 Maison Carrée ......................................... A2 15 Maison Villaret .........................................B2 4 Musée Archéologique ............................ D2 Musée d'Histoire Naturelle .............(see 4) û Drinking & Nightlife 5 Musée du Vieux Nîmes........................... C2 16 Café Olive .................................................B3 17 Grand Café de la Bourse et du ÿ Sleeping Commerce.............................................B3 6 Hôtel Central ............................................D1 7 Hôtel de l'Amphithéâtre......................... B3 ý Entertainment 8 Royal Hôtel .............................................. A2 18 Ciné Sémaphore......................................B4 19 Théâtre de Nîmes ....................................B2 ú Eating 9 Carré d'Art ............................................... A2 717 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n Fe S T iv A lS & e v e N T S Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n N îM e S child €5/3.70; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) The striking glass-and-steel building facing the Maison Carrée was designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster. Inside is the municipal li- brary and the Musée d’Art Contemporain, with permanent and temporary exhibitions covering art from the 1960s onwards. The rooftop restaurant makes a lovely spot for lunch. Musée du Vieux Nîmes MuSeuM (place aux Herbes; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) F The town museum delves into the history of Nîmes from Roman times through to the modern era, with lots of period costumes and a display of denim-wearing celebrities includ- ing Elvis and Marilyn Monroe. Located inside Nîmes’ 17th-century episcopal palace. Musée Archéologique ARCHAeoloGiCAl MuSeuM (13 bd Amiral Courbet; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) F Nîmes’ archaeological museum has a col- lection of Roman tombs, mosaics and other artifacts unearthed around the city. There’s an intriguing display on the city’s Iron Age origins and its massive transformation during the Roman era. Musée d’Histoire Naturelle MuSeuM (13 bd Amiral Courbet; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) F Sharing the same building as the Musée Archéologique, the Natural History Museum has the usual displays of stuffed beasties, fos- sils and skeletons, as well as a few menhirs decorated by prehistoric artists. Don’t forget to say bonjour to Maurice the stuffed giraffe as you enter. Musée des Beaux-Arts ART MuSeuM (rue de la Cité Foulc; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) F The city’s fine-arts museum has a fairly pedes- trian collection of Flemish, Italian and French works, although it’s worth a look for the fine Roman mosaic that can be viewed from the 1st floor. Entry to the permanent collection is free. Located about 200m south of Les Arènes. z Festivals & Events Les Grands Jeux Romains eveNT For two days in mid-April, Romans again take over town with an encampment, staged glad- iatorial battles in Les Arènes and a triumphal street parade. Féria de Pentecôte & Féria des Vendanges BullFiGHTiNG Nîmes becomes more Catalan than French during its two férias (bullfighting festivals): the five-day Féria de Pentecôte (Whitsuntide Festival) in June, and the three-day Féria des Vendanges on the third weekend in Septem- ber. Each is marked by daily corridas (bull- fights). Jeudis de Nîmes FeSTivAl Between 6pm and 10.30pm every Thursday in July and August, food markets and live gigs take over Nîmes’ squares. 4 Sleeping Auberge de Jeunesse HoSTel € (%04 66 68 03 20; www.hinimes.com; 257 chemin de l’Auberge de Jeunesse, la Cigale; dm/d €16.45/38; hreception 7.30am-1am) It’s out in the sticks, 4km from the bus and train stations, but this hostel has lots in its favour: spacious dorms, family rooms, a garden with space for camp- ing, and a choice of self-catering kitchen or cafe. Take bus I, direction Alès or Villeverte, and get off at the Stade stop. Hôtel Central HoTel € (%04 66 67 27 75; www.hotel-central.org; 2 place du Château; d €60-95, f €90-125) If you like your lines clean and your clutter minimal, this re- cently modernised hotel will suit you nicely. The rooms have been renovated with wood- en floors, neutral colours and sleek bath- rooms, with exposed stone left for character; Supérieure rooms offer the most space. The lack of lift is a drawback considering the num- ber of stairs. If you’re driving, ring ahead to ask them to reserve you a parking space. oHôtel de l’Amphithéâtre HoTel €€ (%04 66 67 28 51; www.hoteldelamphitheatre. com; 4 rue des Arènes; s/d/f €72/92/130) Down a narrow backstreet leading away from Les Arènes, this tall townhouse ticks all the boxes: smart rooms with shabby-chic furniture and balconies overlooking the place du Marché; a sleek palette of greys, whites and taupes; and a great buffet breakfast. It’s run by an expat Cornishman and his French wife. PASS NÎMES ROMAINE A joint ticket (adult/child €11.50/9) covers admission to Les Arènes, Maison Carrée and Tour Magne, and remains valid for three days. All three sites have the same closing hours: 8pm in July and August;7pm in June; 6.30pm in April, May and Septem- ber; 6pm in March and October; and 5.30pm from November to February. 718 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n e A T iN G Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n N îM e S Les Cabanes Oxyzen CoTTAGeS €€ (%04 66 84 99 80; www.chambres-hotes-nimes. com; 80 impasse du Couchant; d €140-150; Ws) Fabulous fun: three ultra-contemporary tim- ber cabins, arranged around a lush Mediter- ranean garden and swimming pool shaded by oaks and strawberry trees. Each cabin has its own letter theme (X for XXL, Y for Yellow, Z for Zen) with corresponding decor. It’s 6km northwest of the centre. Royal Hôtel HoTel €€ (%04 66 58 28 27; www.royalhotel-nimes.com; 3 bd Alphonse Daudet; d €82-102, f €163; aW) This upmarket hotel offers grace and style. Bedrooms have a choice of street views or an outlook over the grand place d’Assas. They’re split into standard and superior, all with modern-meets-heritage decor; it’s worth bumping up a level for extra space and air-con. The downstairs restaurant, La Boduegita, offers solid Med dining. La Clapeyrole B&B, SelF-CoNTAiNeD €€ (%04 66 26 85 06; 222 impasse de la Clapeyrole; d per night €120-130, per week €700-900) This detached house is a stunner, set among the wooded hills above Nîmes, about 10 min- utes’ drive from the centre. Modern lines, minimalist decor and a pool encircled by olive trees provide a level of indulgence that normally costs twice the price. It’s about 7km northeast of town, off the D979. Les Jardins Secrets B&B €€€ (%04 66 84 82 64; www.jardinssecrets.net; 3 rue Gaston Maruejols; d €195-380, ste €380-450; W) For doing Nîmes en luxe, nowhere tops the Secret Gardens. Decorated to resemble an 18th-century maison bourgeoise, it’s drip- ping with luxury, from chaise longues and antique clawfoot baths to a wonderful Ro- man-style bathhouse and divine gardens – but for these kind of prices, you’d think they could include breakfast and parking (an ex- tra €25 and €20 respectively). Hôtel Imperator Concorde HoTel €€€ (%04 66 21 90 30; www.nimes.concorde-hotels. com; quai de la Fontaine; r from €180) Nîmes’ longstanding grand hotel, with a guest list that’s taken in everyone from famous mata- dors to European aristocrats (and Heming- way, of course). It’s staid in style, heavy on drapes and heritage furniture, but some of the rooms are looking seriously dated. 5 Eating Nîmes’ gastronomy owes as much to the spicy flavours of Provence as to the meaty richness of the Languedoc. La Petite Fadette CAFe € (%04 66 67 53 05; 34 rue du Grand Couvent; menus €9.50-14.50; h8am-7pm) Salads and crispy tar- tines (open toasted sandwiches) are the order of the day at this homely cafe, with a cute ro- coco interior lined with vintage photos, and outside tables on a small courtyard on the rue du Grand Couvent. The food isn’t fancy, but portions are huge: try the smoked salmon or the cured ham and goat’s cheese. oLe Cerf à Moustache BiSTRo €€ (%09 81 83 44 33; 38 bd victor Hugo; mains €14- 35; h11.45am-2pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat) Despite its weird name, the Deer with the Moustache has quickly established itself as one of Nîmes’ top bistros, with quirky decor (including re- claimed furniture and a wall full of old-book doodles), matched by chef Julien Salem’s crea- tive take on the classics. Go basic with burgers and risotto, or upmarket with crusted lamb and chunky steaks. L’Imprévu MoDeRN FReNCH €€ (%04 66 38 99 59; www.l-imprevu.com; 6 place d’As- sas; mains €19.50-27.50; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Thu- Mon; E) A fine-dining French bistro tucked in the corner of place d’Assas, with an open-plan kitchen and a cute interior courtyard. There’s a good choice of seafood and meats, from sea bass in balsamic vinaigrette to thyme-mari- nated lamb. Dishes are mainly à la carte, al- though there’s a limited menu du jour. Le Nocturne BiSTRo €€ (%04 66 67 20 28; www.restaurant-le-nocturne. com; 29bis rue Benoît Malon; mains €20-30; h8pm- 2am) Swish but not snooty, this is a fine place to dine on rich southwest flavours. Duck, foie gras and mushrooms feature heavily – in fact, you can have your duck breast with a choice of four sauces (raspberry, apple, cep or morel), try a classic confit de canard (duck cooked in its own fat) or even try it au tartare (served raw). It’s on rue Benoît Malon, about 10 minutes’ walk west of Les Arènes. Carré d’Art GASTRoNoMiC €€ (%04 66 67 52 40; www.restaurant-lecarredart.fr; 2 rue Gaston Boissier; lunch/dinner menu €19.50/32; hnoon-3pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat) Open since 1989, this gastronomic heavy-hitter is still one of Nîmes’ top fine-dining addresses. The 719 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n D R iN k iN G & N iG H T liFe Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n N îM e S setting is elegant, in a 19th-century town- house decked out with abstract art and a gor- geous shaded courtyard, and the food gives traditional French a modern spin: mackerel escabèche, or Provençal sea bass with auber- gine caviar. Self-Catering Les Halles MARkeT (rue Guizot, rue Général Perrier & rue des Halles; h6.30am-1pm) Nîmes’ covered market is the best place for supplies: look out for local specialities including picholines (a local green olive with its own AOC) and brandade (salt cod). Maison Villaret BoulANGeRie (13 rue de la Madeleine; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) This family boulangerie (bakery) makes 25 different kinds of bread, cakes and biscuits, such as caladons (honey and almond-studded biscuits). L’Oustaù Nadal DeliCATeSSeN (place aux Herbes; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat) Goodies such as tapenade, honey and olive oil (includ- ing three kinds on tap). 6 Drinking & Nightlife Place aux Herbes, place de l’Horloge and place du Marché are packed with busy cafes. Grand Café de la Bourse et du Commerce BAR (bd des Arènes; h8am-midnight) Step back in time to a more elegant era at this opulent 19th-century cafe opposite Les Arènes, gleam- ing with chandeliers and mirrors. Café Olive BAR (%04 66 67 89 10; 22 bd victor Hugo; h9am-1pm Mon-Sat) A lively little nightspot, the stone walls and dim lighting of which give it a cosy cavern vibe. There are regular gigs and a great choice of wines by the glass. 3 Entertainment Les Arènes is the major venue for outdoor spectacles such as concerts, pageants and bullfights. Ciné Sémaphore CiNeMA (%04 66 67 83 11; www.cinema-semaphore.fr; 25 rue Porte de France) Five screens showing version originale (VO, or nondubbed) films. Théâtre de Nîmes PeRFoRMiNG ARTS (%04 66 36 02 04; www.theatredenimes.com; place de la Calade) Renowned venue for drama and music. 7 Shopping Regular markets are held in Nîmes through- out the week. Brocante Jean Jaurès FleA MARkeT (Flea Market; bd Jean Jaurès; h8am-1pm Mon) Marché Jean Jaurès FARMeRS MARkeT (Farmers Market; bd Jean Jaurès; h7am-1pm Fri) Held at the same place as the flea market. Marché aux Fleurs FloWeR MARkeT (Flower Market; h7am-6pm Mon) Held outside the Stade des Costières. 8 Information Tourist Office (%04 66 58 38 00; www.ot- ni mes.fr; 6 rue Auguste; h8.30am-8pm Mon- Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year) There’s also a sea- sonal annexe (husually Jul & Aug) on esplanade Charles de Gaulle. 8Getting There & Away AIR Nîmes’ airport (%04 66 70 49 49; www.nimes- aeroport.fr), 10km southeast of the city on the A54, is served only by Ryanair, which flies to/from london luton, liverpool, Brussels and Fez. An airport bus (€5.50, 30 minutes) connects with all flightsto/from the train station. BUS The bus station (%04 66 38 59 43; rue Ste-Félic- ité) is next to the train station. local buses are run by Edgard (www.edgard-transport.fr). Destina- tions include: Alès line A10, 1¼ hours, two to four Monday to Saturday Pont du Gard line B21, 40 minutes, hourly Monday to Saturday, two on Sunday Uzès line e52, 45 minutes, eight to 10 daily Monday to Friday, three or four on weekends CAR & MOTORCYCLE Major car-rental companies have kiosks at the airport and the train station. TRAIN TGvs run hourly to/from Paris’ Gare de lyon (€62.50 to €111, three hours) from the train sta- tion (bd Talabot). local destinations, with at least hourly depar- tures, include: Alès €8.50, 40 minutes Arles €9, 30 minutes Avignon €8.50, 30 minutes Montpellier €8.50, 30 minutes Sète €12, one hour 720 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n S iG H T S & A C T iv iT ie S Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n A R o u N D N îM e S Around Nîmes 1 Sights & Activities oPont du Gard RoMAN SiTeS (%04 66 37 50 99; www.pontdugard.fr; car & up to 5 passengers €18, after 8pm €10; hvisitor centre & mu- seum 9am-8pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year) Southern France has some fine Roman sites, but nothing can top the Unesco World Herit- age Site–listed Pont du Gard, 21km northeast of Nîmes. This fabulous three-tiered aqueduct was once part of a 50km-long system of wa- ter channels, built around 19 BC to transport water from Uzès to Nîmes. The scale is huge: 48.8m high, 275m long and graced with 35 precision-built arches; the bridge was sturdy enough to carry up to 20,000 cubic metres of water per day. Each block was carved by hand and trans- ported from nearby quarries – no mean feat, considering the largest blocks weight over 5 tonnes. Amazingly, the height of the bridge descends by just 2.5cm across its length, pro- viding just enough gradient to keep the water flowing – an amazing demonstration of the precision of Roman engineering. The Musée de la Romanité provides background on the bridge’s construction, and the Ludo play area helps kids to learn in a fun, hands-on way. You can walk across the tiers for panoramic views over the River Gard, but the best per- spective on the bridge is from downstream, along the 1.4km Mémoires de Garrigue walking trail. Early evening is a good time to visit, as admission is cheaper and the bridge is stunningly illuminated after dark. There are large car parks on both banks of the river, 400m walk from the bridge. Several buses stop nearby, including Edgard bus B21 (hourly Monday to Saturday, two or three on Sunday) from Nîmes to Alès. Perrier Plant WATeR FACToRY (%04 66 87 61 01; www.visitez-perrier.com/en; adult/child €3/1, tours €4/2; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri) Nîmes isn’t only famous for denim – it’s also the home of Perrier, the world-famous fizzy water, which has its source in natural springs 13km southwest of the city. The main plant supplies around 900 million bottles of water every year; you can visit the factory and watch a 3D film that explains Perrier’s history, the production process, and the reason behind the bottle’s iconic shape (spoiler: it’s to do with pressure). Remember to pick up Perrier- themed souvenirs in the shop. Guided tours visit the bottling plant itself, but are only in French. Uzès POP 8450 Twenty-five kilometres northeast of Nîmes, the trim little town of Uzès is renowned for its graceful Renaissance architecture, a remind- er of the days when this was an important CANOEING ON THE RIVER GARD For a unique perspective on the Pont du Gard, you need to see it from the water. The River Gard flows down from the Cévennes mountains all the way to the aqueduct, passing through the dramatic Gorges du Gardon en route. The best time to do it is early spring between April and June, as winter floods and summer droughts can sometimes make the river impassable. Most of the local hire companies are based in Collias, 8km from the bridge, a journey of about two hours by kayak. Depending on the season and the height of the river, you can make a longer journey by being dropped upstream at Pont St Nicholas (19km, four to five hours) or Russan (32km, six to seven hours); the latter option also includes a memorable trip through the Gardon Gorges. Most companies are open from around 8am to 6pm in summer. There’s a minimum age of six, and life-jackets are always provided. Canoë Collias (%04 66 22 87 20; www.canoe-collias.com; from Collias adult/child €22/12, from Russan €35/16) Kayak Vert (%04 66 22 80 76; www.kayakvert.com; from Collias adult/child €22/11, from Rus- san €41/20) Le Tourbillon (%04 66 22 85 54; www.canoe-le-tourbillon.com; from Collias adult/child €22/11, from Russan €35/22) 721 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n S iG H T S & A C T iv iT ie S Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n A R o u N D N îM e S trading centre – especially for silk, linen and, bizarrely, liquorice. The key sights are the ducal palace and the arcaded central square, place aux Herbes, which hosts a lively farmers market every Wednesday and Saturday. 1 Sights & Activities Duché CHÂTeAu (www.duche-uzes.fr; admission €13, incl guided tour adult/child €18/7; h10am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm) This fortified château belonged to the House of Cressol, who were the Dukes of Uzès for more than 1000 years until the Revolution. The building is a Renaissance wonder, with a majestic 16th-century façade showing the three orders of classical architecture (Ionic, Doric and Corinthian). Inside, you can take a guided tour (in French) of the lavish ducal apartments and 800-year-old cellars, and climb the Bermonde tower for wraparound town views. Jardin Médiéval GARDeN (Medieval Garden; adult/child €4.50/2; h10.30am- 12.30pm & 2-6pm Apr-oct) This delightful garden contains a wealth of plants and flowers that served a variety of purposes for their medieval planters: medicinal, nutritional and symbolic. Musée du Bonbon Haribo MuSeuM (Candy Museum; www.museeharibo.fr; Pont des Charrettes; adult/child €7/4.50; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun oct-Jun, daily Jul-Sep) Uzès’ histo- ry as a centre for confectionery continues at this Wonka-esque museum, which explores the sweet-making process from the early 20th century through to the present day. There’s a collection of antique advertising posters and vintage confectionery machinery, but inevita- bly it’s the rainbow-coloured sweet shop that takes centre stage. Just remember to brush your teeth afterwards, OK? z Festivals & Events Foire Aux Truffes FooD FeSTivAl A full-blown truffle fair, held on the third Sun- day in January. Foire à l’Ail FooD FeSTivAl Uzès positively reeks during its garlic fair on 24 June. Nuits Musicales d’Uzès MuSiC FeSTivAl (www.nuitsmusicalesuzes.org) An international festival of baroque music and jazz held during the second half of July. 4 Sleeping Hostellerie Provençale HoTel €€ (%04 66 22 11 06; www.hostellerieprovencale.com; 1-3 rue de la Grande Bourgade; r €101-186; W) This old-style hotel is a trip back in time: the nine rooms are a mix of wonky floors, sloping ceilings, antique dressers and exposed stone, giving the place a bygone-era vibe. They vary greatly in size, a fact reflected in the prices. The downstairs restaurant, La Parenthèse, serves good regional cuisine. Breakfast is pricey at €14. La Maison Rouge B&B €€ (%09 50 25 91 06; www.maison-rouge-uzes.com; 7 av Maxime Pascal; d €100-130) The Red Houseindeed: built from scarlet brick in 1830 for a gentleman-about-town in the centre of old Uzès. Despite its vintage trappings (shutters, balconies, stone staircase), the house has been beautifully modernised, with wood floors, walk-in showers and swish furniture. Shutters overlook the back-garden pool; on a clear day you can see Mont Ventoux. La Buissonière B&B €€ (%04 66 03 01 71; www.labuissonniere.com; Foussar- gues; r €140-220) A beauty of a B&B, with a vil- lage setting in Foussargues, 10km from Uzès, and a wonderful 2-hectare garden. The house was built by a winemaker in the late 18th cen- tury, but it’s a delicious mix of old and new: rustic stone and flagstones meet gloss-wood floors and sleek designer furniture. Some rooms have sexy bedroom mezzanines. 5 Eating Terroirs DeliCATeSSeN, CAFe € (www.enviedeterroirs.com; 5 place aux Herbes; snacks €4-6, platters €10-14; h9am-10.30pm Apr- Sep, to 6pm oct-Mar) A smart deli-cafe with a prime position overlooking the place aux Her- bes. It sells gourmet goods such as honey, oil, pâté and foie gras, and its platters and sand- wiches are perfect lunch fare. oLe Tracteur BiSTRo €€ (%04 66 62 17 33; Argilliers; dinner menu €29; hnoon-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 7-10pm Fri & Sat) Quirki- ness and creativity are the watchwords at this offbeat, and brilliant, dining destination – part wine shop, part art gallery, part grocery, part bistro. In a converted warehouse in Argilliers, filled with battered furniture and abstract art, it’s a cool space for dining on Mediterranean dishes. Look out for the namesake tractor out- side. Argilliers is 10km from Uzès. 722 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n S H o P P iN G Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n A lè S & A R o u N D Le Comptoir du 7 BiSTRo €€ (%04 66 22 11 54; 5 bd Charles Gide; h12.30-2pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat) Good modern Mediterrane- an food, served in a choice of barrel-vaulted dining room or a courtyard garden. The food is fresh and seasonal, so the menu is dictat- ed by what arrives at the market – always a good sign – and unusually, there’s a choice of vegie options. 7 Shopping Maison de la Truffe FooD (27 place aux Herbes) It’s truffles with everything at the Truffle House: oil, rice, vinegar, meat and pâté are all laced with the pricey tuber. There’s even a truffle aperitif. 8 Information Tourist Office (%04 66 22 68 88; www.uzes- tourisme.com; place Albert 1er; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Sat & Sun) 8Getting There & Away local buses are run by Edgard (www.edgard- transport.fr). Destinations include: Avignon line A15, one hour, five daily Monday to Friday, three on weekends; stops at Alès in the opposite direction. Nîmes line e52, one hour, eight to 10 daily Mon- day to Friday, three or four on weekends Alès & Around POP 41,100 The old industrial town of Alès, 45km from Nîmes and 70km from Montpellier, isn’t the most attractive town in the Gard départe- ment, but it has a good reason for its worka- day appearance: it’s been a major coal-mining centre since the 13th century, though the last pit closed its shafts back in 1986. It’s looking a lot brighter since the heavy in- dustries moved on, but it probably only war- rants a fleeting stop en route to the Cévennes. 1 Sights & Activities Mine Témoin MuSeuM (www.mine-temoin.fr; chemin de la Cité Ste-Marie; adult/child €8.70/5.30; h9am-7pm Jul & Aug, 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mar–mid-Nov) To get an insight into the town’s long coal-mining her- itage, don a safety helmet and take the cage down into the murky tunnels of this disused mine, once used to train apprentice colliers. The one-hour guided tour explores 700m of galleries. The tour and introductory video are in French, but an English guidebook is availa- ble. Above ground, there are various industri- al relics relating to the coal-extraction process. Wear something warm, since the tempera- ture underground never tops 16°C. Bambouseraie de Prafrance GARDeN (www.bambouseraie.com; adult/child €9.60/5.60; h9.30am-7pm Mar–mid-Nov, to 5pm oct & Nov, closed Dec-Feb) It’s over 150 years since the first shoots of this rambling, mature bamboo grove were planted by a spice merchant returning from the tropics. Here in Générargues, 12km southwest of Alès, 150 bamboo species sprout amid aquatic gardens, a Laotian village and a Japanese garden. The Cévennes steam train stops here. Musée du Désert MuSeuM (www.museedudesert.com; adult/child €5.50/4.50; h9.30am-noon & 2-6pm Mar-Nov, 9.30am-6pm Jul & Aug) In the village of Le Mas Soubeyran, 5.5km north of the Bambouseraie, this in- triguing museum traces the history of the Ca- misard revolt, a bloody religious struggle that raged in the early 1700s between the Catho- lic armies of Louis XIV and a guerrilla band of around 1000 Protestant Huguenots, led by the charismatic Roland Laporte. Located in- side Laporte’s house, the museum details his life and times, and contains artifacts such as forbidden Huguenot crosses, antique bibles and Camisard weapons. STEAM TRAIN THROUGH THE CÉVENNES Chugging along a 13km stretch of track between St-Jean du Gard and Anduze, this fabulous old steam train, Train à Vapeur des Cévennes (%04 66 60 59 00; www.train avapeur.com; adult/child return €15/10; hApr-oct), follows an old line through the Gardon Valley, which was in operation between 1909 and 1971. Now restored by enthusiasts, it’s a marvellous way to see the scenery, traversing several arched viaducts and subterranean tunnels, including the 833m-long Tunnel d’Anduze. The trains also stop at the Bambous- eraie de Prafrance. The one-way journey lasts 40 minutes; there are three or four trains daily depending on the season. 723 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n S le e P iN G Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n M o N T P e llie R Sadly, Laporte’s struggle ended in slaugh- ter; he was executed along with most of his followers in 1702, and is still considered a hero by many French Protestants. La Caracole SNAil FARM (www.lacaracole.fr; St-Florent sur Auzonnet; adult/ child €6/4; h tours 6pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, 3pm Sun Jul & Aug, by reservation at other times) Only in France could a snail museum do decent business. Delving into ‘the astonishing, excit- ing world of the snail’, this working snail farm 12km north of Alés has a simple museum de- voted to the slimy creatures, and runs guided tours followed by the obligatory snail-tasting session. 4 Sleeping Mas de Rochebelle B&B €€ (%04 66 30 57 03; www.masderochebelle.fr; 44 chemin de la Cité Ste-Marie; s/d/tr/f incl breakfast €60/80/120/140; s) Near the Mine Témoin, this welcoming chambre d’hôte (B&B) in Alès was once the mine director’s residence. It has five attractive rooms (some with original tiled floors) and a large garden, where you can wander, swim or simply relax under its mag- nificent yew tree. Credit cards aren’t accepted. Hôtel-Restaurant Le Riche HoTel €€ (%04 66 86 00 33; www.leriche.fr; 42 place Pierre Sémard; s/d €62/93; aW) A 19th-century façade conceals surprisingly modern rooms and a refined restaurant (menus €25 to €44), where you can dine on classic terroir cuisine among stucco, cornicing and potted plants. 8 Information Tourist Office (%04 66 52 32 15; www.ville- ales.fr; place Hôtel de ville; h9am-noon & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat, plus 9.30am-12.30pm Sun Jul & Aug) 8Getting There & Away BUS Buses leave from the train station. Edgard (www.edgard-transport.fr) line A15 runs to uzès (one hour, five daily Monday to Friday, three on weekends)and continues to Avignon (1¾ hours). Voyages Boulet (%04 66 65 19 88; www. voyages-boulet.com) Runs one daily bus from Alès to Florac (€15.50, 65 minutes) from mid- April to September. TRAIN There are regular trains daily to/from Nîmes (€8.50, 40 minutes), where you can catch fast TGVs on to Montpellier (€12 to €14.50, 1½ hours). Montpellier POP 257,100 It’s often overlooked in favour of southern France’s better-known cities, but in its own graceful, easy-going way, Montpellier is every bit the equal of Marseille and Nice. With its elegant buildings, grand hôtels particuliers (private mansions) and stately boulevards, it’s a quietly stylish metropolis with a hint of Barcelona about its old quarter and shady backstreets. Unlike many southern towns, Montpellier has no Roman heritage. Instead it was found- ed in the 10th century by the counts of Tou- louse, and later became a prosperous trading port as well as a scholarly centre (Europe’s first medical school was founded here in the 12th century). The population swelled in the 1960s when many French settlers left independent Algeria and settled here, and it’s now one of southern France’s most multicultural cities – and with students making up over a third of the pop- ulation, it’s also a place that seems eternally young at heart. 1 Sights Montpellier’s beating heart is the huge open square of place de la Comédie. The city’s finest period architecture and hôtel particuliers can be found around the old quarter, which lies to the northeast, bordered by the main roads of bd Henri IV, bd Foch and bd Louis Pasteur. 1 City Centre oMusée Fabre GAlleRY (www.museefabre.fr; 39 bd de Bonne Nouvelle; adult/ child €6/4, with Département des Art Décoratifs €7/5, 1st Sun of month free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) Found- ed in 1825 by the painter François-Xavier Fabre, and totally renovated to the tune of €61 million between 2002 and 2007, this land- mark museum houses one of France’s richest collections of European art. MONTPELLIER CITY CARD Montpellier City Card (adult per 1/2/3 days €13.50/19.80/25.20, children half- price) The Montpellier City Card, sold at the tourist office, allows unlimited travel on trams and buses, discounts at shops, a guided walking tour and free admis- sion to several museums – with the notable exception of the Musée Fabre. 724 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n S iG H T S Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n M o N T P e llie R The galleries are split into three main sec- tions: Old Masters, Modern Movements and Decorative Arts, collectively representing the last 600 years of artistic activity in Europe. Most of the big names are represented, and the renovation has transformed the museum into a light, airy and engaging space. Highlights of the Old Masters include three paintings by Rubens, a dreamy Ve- nus & Adonis by Nicholas Poussin, and a collection of works by Jacques-Louis David. The Romantic section is strong on French artists – particularly Delacroix, Géricault and Gustave Courbet – while the modern section is somewhat thinner, with Manet, Degas and Delaunay the standout names. Of particular local interest are the works of the Marseille-born artist Frédéric Bazille (1841–70), a close contemporary of Claude Monet, Alfred Sisley, and Édouard Manet. The artist has a whole room devoted to him: look out for his portrait of Renoir, seated on a chair with legs tucked up beneath him, and a moody portrait of the artist himself by a very young Monet. Tragically, Bazille’s potential was never fulfilled; he died aged just 28 in a battle of the Franco-Prussian War. Attached to the museum is L’Hôtel de Cabrières-Sabatier d’Espeyran, a lavish Montpellier mansion that belonged to the local notable, Madame Frédéric Sabatier d’Espeyran. The interior of the house is filled with incredible ceramics, furniture and objets d’art – an evocative reminder of the fabulous wealth enjoyed by Montpellier’s elite during the late 19th century. Cathédrale St-Pierre CATHeDRAl (bd Henri iv) Montpellier’s monumental Cathédrale St-Pierre began life as a church attached to the 14th-century monastery of St-Benoît, and was raised to cathedral status in 1536. Heavily rebuilt after the Wars of Reli- gion, it’s now the seat of the city’s archbishops. Place Royale du Peyrou eSPlANADe, GARDeN At the eastern end of this wide, tree-lined es- planade is the Arc de Triomphe (1692). From the Château d’Eau, an elaborate hexagonal water tower at its western limit, stretches the Aqueduc de St-Clément, spectacularly illu- minated at night. Jardin des Plantes GARDeN (entry on bd Henri iv; hnoon-6pm Tue-Sun) North of place Royale du Peyrou is one of Montpellier’s hidden gems, the Jardins des Plantes – the oldest botanic garden in France. Established in 1593, it was used as a model for the better-known Jardins des Plantes in Paris, laid out nearly 30 years later. Along its shady paths you’ll find more than 2500 different species, including nine varieties of palm, 250 medicinal plants and an arboretum of rare trees, as well as a glo- rious greenhouse dating from 1860. Musée Languedocien ARCHAeoloGiCAl MuSeuM (www.musee-languedocien.com; 7 rue Jacques Cœur; adult/child €7/free; h3-6pm daily mid-Jun-Aug, 2.30- 5.30pm Mon-Sat other times) This small museum houses a collection of archaeological finds and objets d’art, ranging from ancient Greek and Egyptian statuettes to medieval tapestries and 19th-century faience (tin-glazed earthen- ware). It has a particularly fine collection of silverware, made by Montpellier’s renowned silversmiths between the 17th and 19th cen- turies; of special note are a delicate wine cup made in 1666 and spice box crafted in 1718. Musée du Vieux Montpellier MuSeuM (2 place Pétrarque; admission €3; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun) This municipal museum has a fairly pedestrian collection of local interest pieces, ranging from furniture to tapestries and antique weaponry, but it’s worth a visit as it’s one of the few hôtels particuliers which you can actually see inside. The 18th-century room is particularly interesting, as it still has its period decor – complete with gilded table-clock and a wonderful mother-of-pearl cabinet. 1 Outskirts Montpellier Parc Zoologique Zoo (www.zoo.montpellier.fr; 50 ave Agropolis; zoo admis- sion free, Serre Amazonienne €6.50/3; h9.30am- 6.30pm Tue-Sun easter-Sep, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun oct-easter) F Four kilometres north of the city centre, this excellent zoo – France’s sec- ond largest, covering 60 hectares – has an enormous population of wild residents that span the world’s continents, including a rare white rhinoceros, three young leopard broth- ers (called Tao, Tango and Twist) and a family of Atlas lions. It’s laid out like a safari park, with most of the animals roaming free in open enclosures – so be prepared for walking. Admission to the zoo is free, but there’s a charge for the Serre Amazonienne, a gigan- tic tropical greenhouse which replicates the humid world of the Amazon rainforest, com- plete with piranhas, alligators and reptiles. Take tram 1 to the St-Eloi stop, from where you can either walk to the zoo or catch a free shuttle bus (labelled ‘La Navette’). 725 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n S iG H T S Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n M o N T P e llie R Aquarium Mare Nostrum AQuARiuM (www.aquariummarenostrum.fr; adult/child €15.50/10.50; h10am-8pm Jul & Aug, to 7pm Sep- Jun) Part of the Odysseum shopping centre, this aquarium recreates15 different aquatic environments, from polar waters to tropical forests. Some of the tanks are really imagi- native – there’s an Ocean Balcony where you stare down over submarine cliffs patrolled by sharks and rays, and a huge Amphitheatre, the largest covered tank in France with 1.8m litres of seawater. Kids will also love the inter- 000000000000 000000000000 000000000000 000000000000 000000000000 000000000000 000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000000000000 00000000000000 000000000000 000000000000 000000000000 000000000000 000000 0000000000 0000000000 0000000000 0000000000 0000000000 0000000000 0000000000 #£ # # # # # ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ #ò # # æ æ ## # # # # ââ â â â â #ï # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # Ü ú ú ú ú ú ú ú ú û û û ý ý ý û ú ú û û û ú #› Pl St-Ravy Pl St-Roch Jardin des Plantes Pl Jean Jaurès Pl Auguste Gilbert Pl de la Chapelle Neuve Pl St- Côme Pl Pétrarque Pl Castellane Pl du Marché aux Fleurs R Joffre R A na tol e F ra nc e R R on de le t R M aguelone Bd Vi ct or Hu go R de l'U ni ve rs ité R Ca m ba cé rè s R S t-G uil he m R Ca uzit R Loys Gr an d R Je an M ou lin R de l'Ancien Courrier R d es Ét uv es R En-Gondeau R Diderot R de l'A igu ille rie R V ann eau R de la Loge R de Verdun Bd Ledru-Rollin Bd Louis BlancBd Pasteur Bd H en ri IV Bd du Jeu de Paume R du Grand St-Jean R de la République Cours Gambetta R Foch Av G eo rg es Cl em en ce au R desAugustins B d Sa rr ai l R du Four R d es B alan ces R des Écoles Laïques R De lp ec h R de la Carbonnerie R Collot R du Palaisdes Guilhem R du C ar di na l d e Ca br iè re s R J ule s F er ry B d de B on ne N ou ve lleR de l'Écolede Médecine R Baudin Passage Bruyas R de la Candolle R du P etit St-Jean R deGirone R de la Viel le Int endance R Ri ch eli eu R Jean-Jacques Rousseau R du Bras de Fer R Ja cq ue s C œ ur R St e- Cr oix R Fo ur de s Fla m m es Es pl an ad e C ha rle s de G a u lle R de l'Ecole Mage R Boussairolles R d'Obilion R Alexandre Cabanel R de la Fontaine Train Station Pl de la Comédie Musée Fabre 30 29 26 31 28 27 25 2 7 14 23 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 24 34 33 32 6 5 4 1 8 9 10 11 12 13 3 5 4 3 1 6 C B C 2 5 4 3 1 6 2 B A A D D Montpellier D Place Royale du Peyrou (50m); Château d’Eau (250m); Hôtel des Arceaux (500m); Les 4 Etoiles (1km) D Place Albert 1er (70m); Hôtel duParc (500m); Montpellier Parc Zoologique (4.5km); DMon Jardin en Ville (700m) DAntigone (400m);Place de l'Europe (600m); Odysseum (4km) 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles#e D Jardins des Sens (1km) D Le Bistrot de Bacchus (700m) 726 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n Fe S T iv A lS & e v e N T S Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n M o N T P e llie R active actions, such as a simulated cargo ship battling through stormy seas. To get there, catch tram 1 to the Odysseum station ‘Place de France’. z Festivals & Events Printemps des Comédiens ART FeSTivAl (www.printempsdescomediens.com) A music, dance and theatre festival in June. Montpellier Danse DANCe FeSTivAl (www.montpellierdanse.com) A two-week interna- tional dance festival in June or July. Festival de Radio France et Montpellier MuSiC FeSTivAl (www.festivalradiofrancemontpellier.com) Top- notch classical music and opera, plus a par- allel program of free concerts of all musical genres. Held the second half of July. 4 Sleeping Auberge de Jeunesse HoSTel € (%04 67 60 32 22; montpellier@fuaj.org; 2 impasse de la Petite Corraterie; dm incl breakfast €21.50; W) Montpellier’s HI-affiliated hostel isn’t the nic- est you’ll find in France, but it’s a passable place to sleep on the cheap. It feels very insti- tutional, with spartan dorms and bare decor, but there’s a lounge downstairs with table football and pool, and a small garden. Take the tram to the Louis Blanc stop. Hôtel de la Comédie HoTel € (%04 67 58 43 64; www.hotel-montpellier-comedie. com; 1bis rue Baudin; s/d €50/70; aW) What you lose in luxury here you more than make up for in location: the lively and central place de la Comédie is a matter of seconds away. Rooms are pretty basic but comfy enough, with crim- son bedspreads and double glazing to keep out street noise, and breakfast is served in a smart salon next to reception. There’s a lift, but no car access. Hôtel des Arceaux HoTel € (%04 67 92 03 03; www.hoteldesarceaux.com; 33- 35 bd des Arceaux; s €54-65, d €65-70; aW) This rambling townhouse in a residential quarter of Montpellier, 10 minutes from the centre, has pros and cons. The case for: period archi- tecture, cosy decor, friendly owners, delightful garden. The cons: no lift, rather dated rooms and occasional street noise. The upshot: de- cent value if you’re not too fussy. Les 4 Étoiles B&B €€ (%04 67 02 47 69; www.les4etoiles.com; 3 rue Del- mas; s €72-108, d €94-135) You really couldn’t ask for a better city base than this – a 1930s family house that’s been converted into a con- temporary B&B, with four rooms named after constellations, all individually styled by a local interior designer. They share the same clean- lined character: sharp furniture, flat-screen Montpellier æ Top Sights 16 Halles Castellane .....................................B3 1 Musée Fabre............................................ D2 17 Halles Laissac ..........................................B5 18 Le Grillardin .............................................. C1 æ Sights 19 Le Petit Jardin ..........................................A2 2 Arc de Triomphe ..................................... A3 20 Les Bains de Montpellier ........................C5 3 Cathédrale St-Pierre ............................... A1 21 Les Vignes ................................................B2 4 Hôtel de la Vieille Intendance ................ B2 L'Heure Bleue ................................ (see 10) 5 Hôtel de Varennes .................................. C3 22 MesdamesMessieurs .............................C2 Hôtel des Trésoriers de 23 Saveurs et Sens.......................................B5 France.............................................(see 8) 24 Tripti Kulai ................................................C3 6 Hôtel St-Côme ........................................ C4 7 Jardin des Plantes ................................... A1 û Drinking & Nightlife Musée du Vieux Montpellier ...........(see 5) 25 Barberousse.............................................D4 8 Musée Languedocien ............................. C4 26 Beehive .....................................................B4 27 Chez Boris ................................................C3 ÿ Sleeping 28 In Vino Veritas..........................................C5 9 Auberge de Jeunesse..............................C1 29 La Chistera ...............................................C5 10 Baudon de Mauny................................... C2 30 La Fabrik ...................................................D4 11 Hôtel de la Comédie ............................... D4 31 Le Café de la Mer.....................................C2 12 Hôtel du Palais ........................................ A2 13 Hôtel Le Guilhem .................................... A2 ý Entertainment 32 Le Corum..................................................D2 ú Eating 33 Opéra-Comédie .......................................C4 14 Coffee Club .............................................. B3 34 Rockstore .................................................D5 15 Food Market ............................................ C4 727 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n S le e P iN G Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n M o N T P e llie R TVs, retro design pieces and gorgeous tiled floors. It’s 1km east from bd Henri IV. Hôtel du Parc HoTel €€ (%04 67 41 16 49; www.hotelduparc-montpellier. com; 8 rue Achille-Bégé; s €52-89, d €59-108, tr €118; aW) It’s a 500m walk from the old quarter, and this charming 18th-century hôtel partic- ulier is the place if you’re after peace and tran- quillity. Set around its own private garden, it has 19 regal rooms, accessed via plush carpet- ed corridors and a sweeping central staircase. There’s plenty of parking inside the house’s gates, too. Head north from place Albert 1er along av Faubourg Boutonnet. Smart Living SelF-CoNTAiNeD €€ (%06 76 20 84 70; www.smartliving.fr; apt per night €85-140) For extended stays, Smart Living of- fers self-catering apartments around the city. They vary in style and location, from the slate- floored VIP apartment, which has a private wood-deck patio, to Gambetta, set around its own city garden. All come with kitchen, wash- ing machine and wi-fi, and some have park- ing. There’s usually a two-night minimum; some are only available weekly. Mon Jardin en Ville B&B €€ (%04 67 64 00 35; www.monjardinenville.com; 23 av de Palavas; s €120-140, d €140-160, tr €195; Ws) This pamper pad is a trek from the city cen- tre, but the emphasis is on luxury rather than location. The three rooms are glossy-mag- azine standard: Tulipe Noire is minimalist and monochrome, Orchidée Papillon features blonde wood and neutral tones, and Fleur de Lune has a split-level mezzanine with a mini- office and extra beds. The wooded garden and pool are absolutely gorgeous, too. It’s 1km southeast of the train station. Hôtel du Palais HoTel €€ (%04 67 60 47 38; www.hoteldupalais-montpellier. fr; 3 rue du Palais des Guilhem; s €74, d €82-97; W) Old-fashioned certainly, but this homely ho- tel offers a flavour of a bygone era, with its peach-coloured rooms, wrought-iron balco- nies and window boxes. The setting on a quiet square is delightful; try to get a front-facing room if you can. The nearest car parks are on rue Foch and rue Pitot. oBaudon de Mauny B&B €€€ (%04 67 02 21 77; www.baudondemauny.com; 1 rue de la Carbonnerie; €170-280; hreception 4-10pm; W) Halfway between a palatial B&B and a boutique hotel, this 18th-century house has been given the full designer overhaul: origi- nal fireplaces, oak doors and sash windows sit alongside modern furniture, angle-poise lamps and butterfly wallpaper, but the stripped-back style might be a bit too austere for some. The most convenient parking is at Parking du Corum, 500m northeast. Hôtel Le Guilhem HoTel €€€ (%04 67 52 90 90; www.hotel-le-guilhem.com; 18 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau; r €84-204; aiW) Occupying two interconnected 16th-century mansions on a narrow backstreet, this Best Western–owned hotel has rooms split across three ‘comfort’ categories. They’re a bit of a mixed-bag – some are small with heritage fur- niture, others more spacious with views over HÔTELS PARTICULIERS IN MONTPELLIER During the 17th and 18th centuries, Montpellier’s rich merchants built themselves grand hôtels particuliers (private mansions) to show off their power and prodigious wealth. The most important houses are marked by a descriptive plaque in French; you can pick up a map in the tourist office. Though the exteriors are often quite restrained, inside many of the houses have fabulous inner courtyards (mostly, alas, closed to the public). Among the most notable are the Hôtel de Varennes (2 place Pétrarque), just off place Pétrarque, a mix of medieval and Renaissance architecture, which now contains the Musée du Vieux Montpellier. A short walk south on rue Jacques Coeur is the 17th-century Hôtel des Trésoriers de France (7 rue Jacques Cœur), home to the Musée Languedocien. Just west is the Hôtel St-Côme (Grand Rue Jean Moulin), a suitably grand building for the city’s Chamber of Commerce. Further west near the Cathédrale St-Pierre is the early 17th-century Hôtel de la Vieille Intendance (rue de la vieille intendance), built during the reign of Louis XIII for the queen mother and his niece Marie Louise d’Orléans (coloquially known as ‘La Grande Made- moiselle’). The house was later occupied occupied by the city’s intendant (governor), the philosopher Auguste Comte and the Sète-born poet Paul Valéry. 728 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n e A T iN G Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n M o N T P e llie R the private garden. The nearest parking is at Parking Peyrou. 5 Eating You’ll find plenty of cheap and cheerful eat- eries on rue de l’Université, rue des Écoles Laïques and the surrounding streets. Tripti Kulai veGeTARiAN € (%04 67 66 30 51; 20 rue Jacques Cœur; mains €4-8, menus €11-16; hnoon-9.30pm Mon-Sat; v) Ideal for lunch, this organic-veggie cafe majors on quiches, salads and gratinées, and the fresh fruit juices are great. It also has a wholefood shop at 22 rue Bernard Délicieux and a take- away cafe at 3 rue Massillian. L’Heure Bleue CAFe € (1 rue de la Carbonnerie; cakes €3-5; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat) Scrumptious patisseries and fine teas served in china teapots are on offer at this cute cafe. Coffee Club CAFe € (%07 86 17 81 56; www.coffeeclub.fr; 12 rue St-Guil- hem; lunch menu €7.90; h9am-7pm Tue-Fri, 11am- 5pm Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) Montpellier’s very own urban espresso bar, brewing up excellent espressos and fluffy flat whites, as well as a decent lunch menu of sandwiches, salads and delicious cakes. Les Bains de Montpellier SeAFooD €€ (%04 67 60 70 87; www.les-bains-de-montpellier. com; 6 rue Richelieu; mains €20-30; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat) Once a public bathhouse where people underwent their daily ablutions, this is now a hugely attractive restaurant that’s especially strong on seafood and Italian- influenced dishes. Tables are setaround the old perimeter bathrooms, with plush purple chairs and overhead chandeliers, but the best are in the interior courtyard, surrounded by ponds and palms. oSaveurs et Sens BiSTRo €€ (%04 99 61 62 04; www.saveursetsens.fr; angle rue de la Fontaine et rue Cabanel; 2-/3-course menu €24.90/29.90, à la carte mains €18.50; hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sat, Sun by reservation) One of the hot local tips in town, a teeny backstreet cor- ner bistro run with finesse by young owners Anthony and Angélique. It’s passionate about market-fresh fish and locally sourced food; flavours blend classic French and modern Mediterranean, with quirky touches such as slate plates and arty slashes of sauce. The din- ing room is tiny, so bookings are essential – especially since it’s become so popular. Le Grillardin MeDiTeRRANeAN €€ (%04 67 66 24 33; www.restaurantlegrillardin.com; 3 place de la Chapelle Neuve; weekday lunch menu €19, mains €17-23; h12.30-2.30pm Wed-Fri, 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun) One of a pocket of attractive bistros in the shady place de la Chapelle Neuve, serv- ing zingy Mediterranean cuisine laced with copious amounts of peppers, aubergines, to- matoes, parmesan and basil. Book ahead, es- pecially if you want a table on the square, as it’s very popular with local diners. Le Bistrot de Bacchus BiSTRo €€ (%09 50 08 00 54; www.bistrot-bacchus.com; 8 rue Marioge; mains €15-20; hnoon-2.30pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat, 7-10.30pm Mon & Thu-Sat) There’s no menu at this fine little ‘bistronomique’ diner in the rather rough-and-ready Arceaux district – just a blackboard chalked up with different dishes on the day depending on the chef’s whims. Expect hearty country cooking, such as poule au pot (pot-boiled chicken), chunky beefsteak with thick-cut chips, and creamy lobster. Worth the walk. Mesdames Messieurs MoDeRN FReNCH €€ (%04 67 63 49 53; www.mesdamesmessieurs.com; 5 rue de Girone; tapas platter €13-19, 2-/3-course menu €21/29; h11am-3pm Sun, 7-10pm Tue-Sat; v) A place of two halves: half wine-bar, half-bistro, recommended for its platters of charcuterie, cheese and smoked trout accompanied by lots of wines by the glass. It’s especially good for Sunday brunch, a serve-yourself buffet of deli- cious salads, tapenades and quiches. Les Vignes MoDeRN FReNCH €€€ (%04 67 60 48 42; www.lesvignesrestaurant.com; 2 rue Bonnier d’Alco; menus lunch €15-23, dinner €29-29; hnoon-1.30pm Mon-Sat, 7.45-9.30pm Thu- Sat) Thierry Germain is passionate about two things: local produce and Provençal cooking, and both come to the fore at his smart restau- rant in central Montpellier. Cévennes lamb, Mediterranean seafood and bull meat from the Camargue are just some of the ingredients you might find on the menu. The interior is suitably chic – white tablecloths, table lamps, Provençal colours – but the little terrace is the place on a warm summer’s night. Le Petit Jardin FuSioN €€€ (%04 67 60 78 78; www.petit-jardin.com; 20 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau; mains bistro €12-16, restau- rant €30-42; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat, restaurant open Mon evening) Without doubt, the ‘Little Garden’ has one of the city’s most romantic dining settings – a charmingly green secret garden, hidden away behind the 729 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n D R iN k iN G & N iG H T liFe Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n M o N T P e llie R amber façade of a typical townhouse in the old quarter. You can choose to dine in either the relaxed bistro or the more formal restau- rant, depending on your taste: either way, the food is fresh, seasonal and very French. oJardin des Sens GASTRoNoMiC €€€ (%04 99 58 38 38; www.jardindessens.com; 11 av St-lazare; weekday lunch menu €49, dinner mains €48-90; hnoon-2.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri, 7-10pm Mon- Sat) Loosen that belt buckle: the Jardins des Sens has acquired a mythical status among French foodies. Twice Michelin-starred, it’s run by brothers Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, whose passion for contemporary art is mir- rored in their choice of decor and their food, with culinary creations that are as much sculptural as gastronomical. It’s about 1km north of bd Louis Blanc along av de Nîmes. Self-Catering Montpellier has lots of markets, including traditional food markets on place de la Comédie (h7am-1.30pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri & Sat) and place Albert 1er (h7am-1pm Wed, Fri & Sat), and a farmers market (av Samuel Cham- plain; h8am-1pm Sun) in the Antigone quarter. Ask at the tourist office about regular book fairs, flea markets and flower markets. Halles Castellane FooD MARkeT (rue de la loge; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun) The city’s main covered market, stocked to the rafters with local goodies. There are lots of Languedoc wines on offer, as well as copious fish and shellfish from the ports at Sète and Agde. Halles Laissac FooD MARkeT (rue Anatole France; h7am-1.30pm) Montpellier’s second-largest covered market. It’s due to be demolished in early 2015, and replaced by a futuristic new one, which should open in early 2017. 6 Drinking & Nightlife With nearly 80,000 students, Montpellier has a multitude of places to drink and dance. You’ll find dense concentrations around rue En-Gondeau, off Grand-Rue Jean Moulin, around place Jean Jaurès and around the in- tersection of rue de l’Université and rue de la Candolle. For events and gig listings, pick up the weekly free sheet Sortir à Montpellier. The city’s big clubs are around Espace Latipolia, 10km out of town on route de Palavas. Chez Boris WiNe BAR (%04 67 02 13 22; www.chezboris.com; 20 rue de l’Aiguillerie; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm) Boris Leclercq’s wine-bar has proved popular: he’s now got two outlets in town (this one and another at 17 bd Sarrail), as well as a new Parisian cousin. It’s all relaxed and friendly, with wines served by the glass, accompanied by plates of Iberico ham and Aubrac beef if you’re peckish. Check out previous guests’ comments on the ceiling. In Vino Veritas WiNe BAR (16 rue Diderot; h7pm-midnight) Chandeliers and red-velvet seats create a boudoir vibe here, an ideal setting for sampling Languedoc vintages either by the glass or the bottle. La Chistera PuB (%04 67 55 39 51; 2bis rue d’obilion; h10am-1pm Mon-Sat) This lively pub is owned by rugby star François Trinh-Duc, a local-born hero who still plays for his home team. There’s a huge list of beers, domestic and foreign, served among neon lights and brick walls. As you might expect, it’s a good place to watch big- screen sport. La Fabrik BAR (%04 67 58 62 11; 12 rue Boussairolles; h6pm-1am Tue-Sat) Rough-and-ready backstreet bar, with industrial decor, Belgian beers and regular gig line-ups. Beehive PuB (15 rue du Plain d’Age; hnoon-1am) Brit-themed pub with a French twist and a young crowd. Barberousse BAR (%04 67 58 03 66; 6 rue Boussairolles; h6am-1pm) Ahoy, me hearties – down vintage rums and rum-based cocktails at this pirate-themed bar, complete with ships’ lanterns and upturned barrels. Le Café de la Mer GAY BAR (5 place du Marché aux Fleurs; h8am-1pm Mon-Sat) One of the city’s oldest gay bars. Ask at the bar for a free map of where else is hot (or not). 3 Entertainment Rockstore live MuSiC (%04 67 06 80 00; www.rockstore.fr; 20 rue de verdun) You can’t miss this long-standing venue – just look out for the tail-fins of the ’70s Cadillac jutting out above the entrance. It’s one of the city’s best places for live gigs. 730 Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n B A S -l A N G u e D o C Lan g ued o c-Ro ussiLLo n iN Fo R M A T io N Lan g ued o c-Ro
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