A maior rede de estudos do Brasil

45 pág.

Pré-visualização | Página 11 de 14

Coastal Eng., ASCE, Sydney, 1980.
Eckart, C., “Surface Waves in Water of Variable Depth,” Univ. California, Scripps Institution
of Oceanography, Wave Report 100, SIO Ref. 51-12, 99 pp., 1951.
Elgar, S., and R.T. Guza, “Shoaling GravityWaves: Comparison Between Field Observations,
Linear Theory and Nonlinear Model,” J. Fluid Mechanics, 158, 47–70, 1985.
Fenton, J.D., “A Fifth-Order Stokes Theory for SteadyWaves,” J.Waterways, Port, Coastal and
Ocean Eng., ASCE, 111, 216–234, 1985.
Fenton, J.D., and W.D. McKee, unpublished, 1989; referred to by Fenton, J.D., “Nonlinear
Wave Theories,” in The Sea, 9, A, 3–25, New York: Wiley Interscience, 1990.
Fowler, R.E., and R.A. Dalrymple, “Wave Group Forced Nearshore Circulation,” Proc. 22nd
Intl. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, 729–742, 1990.
Freilich, M.H., and R.T. Guza, “Nonlinear Effects on Shoaling Surface Gravity Waves,” Phil.
Trans. Roy. Soc. London, A, 31, 1–41, 1984.
Gallagher, B., “Generation of Surf Beat by NonlinearWave Interactions,” J. Fluid Mechanics,
49, 1–20, 1971.
Galvin,C.J., andP.S.Eagleson, “Experimental StudyofLongshoreCurrents onaPlaneBeach,”
Tech. Memo., U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, 10, 80 pp., 1965.
Guza, R.T., and R.E. Davis, “Excitation of Edge Waves by Waves Incident on a Beach,”
J. Geophys. Res., 79, 1285–1291, 1974.
Guza, R.T., and D.L. Inman, “EdgeWaves and Beach Cusps,” J. Geophys. Res., 80, 2997–3012,
Haller, M.C., and R.A. Dalrymple, “Rip Current Instabilities,” J. Fluid Mechanics, 433, 161–
192, 2001
Haller,M.C., R.A.Dalrymple, and I.A. Svendsen, “RipChannels andNearshoreCirculation,”
Proc. Waves ’97, ASCE, 1997.
Hibberd, S., and D.H. Peregrine, “Surf and Run-up on a Beach: a Uniform Bore,” J. Fluid
Mech., 95, 2, 323–345, 1979.
Holman, R.A., and A.J. Bowen, “Edge Waves on Complex Beach Profiles,” J. Geophys. Res.,
84, C10, 6339–6346, 1979.
CB373-05 CB373 June 27, 2001 11:28 Char Count= 0
Holman, R.A., and A.J. Bowen, “Bars, Bumps, and Holes: Models for the Generation of
Complex Beach Topography,” J. Geophys. Res., 87, C1, 457–468, 1982.
Holthuijsen, L.H., N. Booij, andR.C. Ris, “A SpectralWaveModel for the Coastal Zone,Proc.
2nd Intl. Symp.OceanWaveMeasurement andAnalysis,ASCE,NewOrleans, 630–641, 1993.
Horikawa, K., and C.T. Kuo, “A Study of Wave Transformation Inside the Surf Zone,” Proc.
10th Intl. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, 217–233, 1966.
Howd, P.A.,A.J. Bowen, andR.A.Holman, “EdgeWaves in the Presence of StrongLongshore
Currents,” J. Geophys. Res., 97, C7, 11,357–11,371, 1992.
Huntley, D.A., R.T. Guza, andE.B. Thornton, “FieldObservations of Surf Beat: 1. Progressive
Edge Waves,” J. Geophys. Res., 86, 6451–6466, 1981.
Hughes, M.G., “Application of a Non-Linear ShallowWater Theory to Swash Following Bore
Collapse on a Sandy Beach,” J. Coastal Research, 8, 3, 562–578, 1992.
Kadomtsev, B.B., and V.I. Petviashvili, “On the Stability of Solitary Waves in Weakly Disper-
sive Media,” Sov. Phys. Dokl., 15, 539–541, 1970.
Kaihatu, J.M., and J.T. Kirby, “Two-Dimensional ParabolicModeling of Extended Boussinesq
Equations,” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Eng., 124, 57–67, 1998.
Kawahara, M., and K. Kashiyama, “Selective Lumping Finite Element Model for Nearshore
Currents,” Int. J. Numerical Methods Fluids, 4, 71–97, 1984.
Kennedy, A.B., Q. Chen, J.T. Kirby, and R.A. Dalrymple, “Boussinesq Modeling of Wave
Transformation, Breaking and Runup. I: 1D,” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Eng.,
126, 39–47, 2000.
Kirby, J.T., andR.A.Dalrymple, “AParabolic Equation for theCombinedRefraction-Diffrac-
tion of StokesWaves byMildlyVaryingTopography,” J. FluidMechanics, 136, 453–466, 1983.
Kirby, J.T., R.A. Dalrymple, and P.L.-F. Liu, “Modifications of Edge Waves by Barred-Beach
Topography,” Coastal Eng., 5, 35–49, 1981.
Kobayashi, N., G.S. De Silva, and K.D. Watson, “Wave Transformation and Swash Oscillation
on Gentle and Steep Slopes,” J. Geophys. Res., 94, C1, 951–966, 1989.
Kobayashi,N., andA.Wurjanto, “IrregularWaveSetupandRun-UponBeaches,” J.Waterway,
Port, Coastal and Ocean Eng., 118, 4, 368–386, 1992.
Korteweg, D.J., and G. De Vries, “On the Change of Form of Long Waves Advancing in a
Rectangular Channel, and on a New Type of Long StationaryWaves,” Philos. Mag., 4th Ser,
39, 422–443, 1895.
Kostense, J.K., “Measurements of Surf Beat and Set-down BeneathWaveGroups,” Proc. 19th
Intl. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, Houston, 724–740, 1984.
Lamb, Sir H., Hydrodynamics, 6th ed., New York: Dover Press, 1945.
Leadon, M.E., N.T. Nguyen, and R.R. Clark, “Hurricane Opal: Beach and Dune Erosion and
Structural DamageAlong the Panhandle Coast of Florida,” Bureau of Beaches and Coastal
Systems, Florida Dept. Env. Protection, State of Florida, 1997.
Li, L., and R.A. Dalrymple, “Instabilities of the Undertow,” J. Fluid Mechanics, 369, 175–190,
Lippmann, T.C., R.A. Holman, and A.J. Bowen, “Generation of Edge Waves in Shallow
Water,” J. Geophys. Res., 102, C4, 8663–8679, 1997.
Liu, P.L.-F., and R.A. Dalrymple, “Bottom Frictional Stresses and Longshore Currents due to
Waves with Large Angles of Incidence,” J. Marine Res., 32, 2, 357–375, 1978.
Liu, P.L.-F., and C.C. Mei, “Water Motion on a Beach in the Presence of a Breakwater, I and
II,” J. Geophys. Res., 81, 3079–3094, 1976.
Liu, P.L.-F., S.B. Yoon, and J.T. Kirby, “Nonlinear Refraction–Diffraction ofWaves in Shallow
Water,” J. Fluid Mechanics, 153, 184–201, 1985.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S., “Longshore Currents Generated by Obliquely Incident Sea Waves,
1,” J. Geophys. Res., 75, 33, 6778–6789, 1970a.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S., “Longshore Currents Generated by Obliquely Incident Sea Waves,
2,” J. Geophys. Res., 75, 33, 6790–6801, 1970b.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S., and R.W. Stewart, “Radiation Stress in Water Waves; a Physical Dis-
cussion with Applications,”Deep Sea Res., 11, 4, 529–563, 1963.
CB373-05 CB373 June 27, 2001 11:28 Char Count= 0
Madsen, P.A., R.Murray, andO.R. Sørensen, “ANew Form of the Boussinesq Equations with
Improved Linear Dispersion Characteristics,” Coastal Eng., 15, 371–388, 1991.
Madsen, P.A.,O.R. Sørensen, andH.A. Scha¨ffer, “SurfZoneDynamics Simulated by aBoussi-
nesq Type Model. Part I. Model Description and Cross-shore Motion of Regular Waves,”
Coastal Eng., 32, 255–287, 1997a.
Madsen, P.A.,O.R. Sørensen, andH.A. Scha¨ffer, “SurfZoneDynamics Simulated by aBoussi-
nesq Type Model. Part II. Surf Beat and Swash Oscillations for Wave Groups and Irregular
Waves,” Coastal Eng., 32, 287–319, 1997b.
Matiessen, M., “Current-Depth Refraction of Directional Wave Spectra,” Symp. Description
and Modeling of Directional Seas, Tech. Univ. Denmark, 1984.
Matsunaga, N., K. Takehara, and Y. Awaya, “Coherent Eddies Induced by Breakers on a
Sloping Bed,” Proc. 21st Intl. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, Malaga, 234–245, 1988.
Matsunaga, N., and K. Takehara, “Vortex Train in an Offshore Zone,” Proc. 23rd Intl. Conf.
Coastal Eng., ASCE, Venice, 3163–3177, 1992.
Mei, C.C., The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves, New York: Wiley Interscience,
740 pp., 1983. Also, Singapore: World Scientific Press, 1989.
Mei, C.C., and D. Angelides, “Longshore Circulation Around a Conical Island,”Coastal Eng.,
1, 31–42, 1977.
Miller, D.J., “Giant Waves in Lituya Bay, Alaska,” Geological Survey Professional Paper
354-C, 1960.
Munk, W.H., “Surf Beats,” Trans. Amer. Geophys. Un., 30, 849–854, 1949.
Munk, W.H., “The Solitary Wave Theory and Its Applications to Surf Problems,” Ann. N.Y.
Acad. Sci., 51, 376–424, 1949.
Nadaoka, K., “AFundamental Study on Shoaling andVelocity Field Structure ofWaterWaves
in the Nearshore Zone,” Ph.D. Dissertation, Tokyo Inst. Technology, Tech. Rpt. Dept. Civil
Engineering No. 36, 36–125, 1986.
Nadaoka, K.,M.Hino, andY.Koyano, “Structure of the Turbulent FlowFieldUnderBreaking
Waves in the Surf Zone,” J. Fluid Mech., 204, 359–387, 1989.
Nadaoka, K., S. Ueno, and T. Igarashi, “Field Observation