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Cápsula de Design O/I 23/24: bebês e crianças pequenas – Balé de inverno Looks festivos inspirados no balé são combinados com malhas macias e lã de pelúcia nesta aconchegante tendência de inverno que prioriza o conforto e a longevidade. Hannah Allan 12.12.22 · 9 minutos Em inglês Donsje Amsterdam Mood and colour Why? #Balletcore emerges as a key trend for youth and tween markets, driven by TikTok influencers and new narratives that promote inclusivity and ballet for all. With this comes a so� aesthetic inspired by ballerina costumes and dancewear that is beginning to trickle down into baby and toddler. How? Look to classic ballet styles for inspiration and update with #Cosy quilted textures and quality fabrics that offer #SupremeComfort for winter. A minimalist palette sees so� neutrals paired with barely there pink and a warm pop of Apricot Crush, grounded with rich shades of brown. Coloro: A: 014-73-08, B: 034-84-05, C: 031-63-17, D: 037-93- 00, E: 024-65-27, F: 019-27-14 Pantone: A: 14-1309 TCX, B: 12-0304 TCX, C: 16-0928 TCX, D: 11- 4800 TCX, E: 15-1247 TCX, F: 19-1220 TCX A: Pink Clay B: Chalk C: Parchment D: Optic White E: Apricot Crush F: Sepia Ando @aosta_atelier Bien a Bien Happy Prince @miniwinther_co 1 https://www.tiktok.com/tag/balletcore https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/636bbd33059e3c3b3447da08 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/feed?filters=%7B%22hashtags%22%3A%5B%22cosy%22%5D%7D https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/feed?filters=%7B%22hashtags%22%3A%5B%22supremecomfort%22%5D%7D Quilted crossover coat Reversible quilted styles offer two looks in one, providing extra value to consumers as the #CostOfLiving rises. Details: keep silhouettes oversized to allow room for growth. Take inspiration from ballet cardigans with simple wrapover styles and tie fastenings. Construction: provide greater cost per wear with reversible quilted designs. Onion, shell and cloud-like patterns add cute quilting details. Use deadstock fabric to introduce contrast binding on seams to finish. Materials: use GOTS-certified cotton and natural fibre wadding for quilting. Introduce teddy fleece on the reverse to add an extra layer of comfort. Move away from petroleum-based synthetics by switching to natural #Plush fibres that help alleviate the micro-shedding associated with synthetic fleeces. Components: use tie fastenings to reduce the amount of individual components and help make recycling easier. Circularity stream: design for disassembly and longevity Zhoe & Tobiah Tia Cibani Greenberry Kids Bien a Bien Desenhos originais da WGSN 2 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/feed?filters={%22hashtags%22:[%22CostOfLiving%22]} https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/93932#page3 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/feed?filters={%22hashtags%22:[%22plush%22]} Mock-neck dress with tulle skirt The tulle party dress gets a cosy update, with knitted mock-neck tops warmth and comfort for a style that sits somewhere between casual and occasionwear. Details and colour: introduce so�, feminine details through lettuce edging on knits and layered tulle skirts in tonal #Neutrals and blush pink shades. Construction: prioritise detachable skirts to offer two-in-one looks for bodies and tops that can be worn beyond party season. Up the cosy factor with knit and plush combinations, adding a tulle underskirt that can be easily removed depending on the occasion. Materials: use GOTS-certified organic cotton for jersey ribs, with brushed backing for extra warmth. For tulle, use recycled synthetic fibres and embed fibre traceability for added transparency. Circularity stream: design for resale and disassembly Zhoe & Tobiah Donsje @teddyandminou @aosta_atelier Desenhos originais da WGSN 3 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/feed?filters={%22hashtags%22:[%22neutrals%22]} https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/89907#page7 Plush collared bubble romper The #StatementCollar romper continues to trend for baby and toddler, as called out in our A/W 23/24 Key Items report. Update for winter with puff long sleeves and teddy �eece trims for a cosy aesthetic. Details: cotton lace and Peter Pan collars combined with ditsy floral prints in gathered, bubble silhouettes create a nostalgic, heirloom quality for longevity. Materials: opt for breathable, so� materials using eco cotton in BCI and GOTS-certified organic yarns. Use natural fleece over synthetic for single-material composition within garments, helping to increase the chances of end-of-life recycling. Components: for fastenings, use natural materials such as wood or coconut shell to minimise plastic waste and make recycling easier. Circularity stream: design for resale, disassembly and longevity Bebe Organic @aosta_atelier Rylee & Cru Donsje Desenhos originais da WGSN 4 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/feed?filters={%22hashtags%22:[%22statementcollar%22]} https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/93823#page4 Wrap cardigan For everyday knits, take the lead from classic ballet cardigans with simple crossover styles. Update with responsibly sourced �bres and �nish with pretty details for quality, elevated basics. Details: pointelle details, delicate cutouts and scallop edges help to update true knits into premium items perfect for #HolidayGi�ing, as noted in our S/S 23 Buyersʼ Briefing. Materials: invest in regenerative and ethical knit fibres; champion responsibly sourced merino and cashmere yarns blended with GOTS-certified cotton in a fine gauge to keep items light and so�. Components: opt for tie fastenings to reduce the need for components. When using buttons, choose FSC-certified wood or recycled coconut shell for lower environmental impact. Circularity stream: design for longevity and disassembly @lilatelier_of�cial @wil.woolinlove Minimalisma Isla & Fraser Desenhos originais da WGSN 5 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/feed?filters={%22hashtags%22:[%22holidaygifting%22]} https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/94037#page4 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/92112 Cosy leggings As the legwarmer makes a comeback in the women’s and youth markets, interpret this for baby and toddler via cosy updates to the basic knit legging. Details: look to traditional dancewear for inspiration; add foot stirrups and introduce an extra layer of warmth to leggings with plush panels or chunky rib cuffs that mimic legwarmers. Components: create two-in-one value with legging designs that feature detachable legwarmers, as seen at Korean brand Happy Prince. Materials: comfort remains a key priority for #Slounge basics; see our Soulful Comfort trend for how to sustainably update jersey separates for A/W 23/24. Circularity stream: design for longevity and disassembly Happy Prince Bien a Bien Mardi Amber Soor Ploom Desenhos originais da WGSN 6 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/93831#page4 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/feed?filters={%22hashtags%22:[%22slounge%22]} https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/93202#page6 Ballet-inspired shoes The #BalletShoe has seen an uptick due to its classic shape, comfortable nature and the emerging Balletcore trend. Look to #BalletDetails to update Mary Jane and slip-on styles. Details: look to ballet slippers and point shoes for inspiration with lace-up ribbon ties and velvet bow details. Tap into Holiday gi�ing opportunities by offering personalisation for baby s̓ first shoes, ideal for keepsake gi�s. Colour: rose pink and black offer longevity and lasting, transseasonal appeal Materials: velvet uppers add a luxurious party feel. Prioritise better-quality, low-impact leathers for lasting wear and explore #PlantBased leather alternatives such as Piñatex. Circularity stream: design for longevity and resale @aosta_atelier Marmar Copenhagen La Coqueta Kids My 1st Years Donsje Desenhos originais da WGSN 7 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/feed?filters={%22hashtags%22:[%22balletshoe%22]} https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/feed?filters=%7B%22hashtags%22%3A%5B%22balletdetails%22%5D%7D https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/feed?filters={%22hashtags%22:[%22plantbased%22]} https://www.ananas-anam.com/about-us/#:~:text=Pi%C3%B1atex%20%C2%AE%20is%20made%20of,additional%20environmental%20resources%20to%20produce.Matching ballerina cloth doll Adopt a circular mindset for add-on gifting by using off-cuts leftover from garment waste to create matching cloth dolls for #Twinning mini-me looks. Details and materials: use fabric scraps, surplus threads and le�over yarns from clothing production to make patchworked dolls. Tie looks back to apparel lines for a cute #MatchingSet, as seen at Organic Zoo s̓ (UK) collaboration with Argentinian-Italian brand Severina Kids. When designing human dolls, ensure your range represents a diverse range of skin tones. Components: offer additional outfits for dress- up games and fresh looks. Repair services and kits can help ensure longevity for cherished dolls. Circularity stream: design for longevity and repair @boramiri @magic_and_monroe @kinfolk.dolls Organic Zoo @lenabekh Desenhos originais da WGSN 8 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/feed?filters={%22hashtags%22:[%22twinning%22]} https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/feed?filters=%7B%22hashtags%22%3A%5B%22matchingset%22%5D%2C%22markets%22%3A%5B%2293%22%2C%22191%22%2C%22110%22%5D%7D 3D range plan Quilted crossover coat Mock-neck dress with tulle skirt Plush collared bubble romper Wrap cardigan Cosy leggings 9 2D range plan Quilted crossover coat Mock-neck dress with tulle skirt Plush collared bubble romper Wrap cardigan Cosy leggings 10 Ballet-inspired shoes Matching ballerina cloth doll 11 In�uences Bien a Bien Look to contemporary Korean brand Bien a Bien for direction when it comes to designing cosy separates, plush accessories and duvet-like quilted jackets. Aosta Korea-based Aosta is known for its simple bubble shapes, Peter Pan collars and smock dresses layered together in a palette of warm, oat-based neutrals. Teddy fur features on trims and accessories, adding a cosy update to its latest winter drop. Kinfolk Dolls US-based Kinfolk Dolls aims to ensure all children feel represented with its diverse, heirloom dolls. The brand launched its ballerina collection in November 2022, featuring handmade dolls stuffed with recycled polyester fibres in seven different skin tones and four different hair colours. The Night Before the Nutcracker Published in September 2022 and created in partnership with the American Ballet Theatre, John Robert Allmans̓ latest picturebook, The Night before the Nutcracker, features young dancers rehearsing for their performance of the classic winter ballet, with beautiful costume illustrations by Julianna Swaney. Donsje This Dutch brand mixes cosy knits with so� ruffles and tulle skirts in a palette of warm neutrals, blush pinks and rich brown for its A/W 22/23 Cosy Wintry Cottage collection, which features nostalgic, heirloom pieces and premium basics. Bien a Bien @aosta_atelier @kinfolk.dolls @julianna_swaney Donsje 12 http://www.bienabien.co.kr/ https://www.instagram.com/aosta_atelier/ https://kinfolkdolls.com/en-gb https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/639410/the-night-before-the-nutcracker-american-ballet-theatre-by-john-robert-allman-illustrated-by-julianna-swaney/ https://www.donsje.com/uk/ 1 2 3 4 Action points Introduce tactile fabrics across your range, from shearling linings and teddy fleece collars to velvet ballet pumps. Plush and knit fabrics update the classic tulle party dress, blending practical with theatrical Offer a diverse range of skin tones when designing matching cloth dolls and in supporting campaign imagery to show all children that they are represented As the cost of living remains at the forefront of consumersʼ minds, add value with reversible styles and detachable items that offer two-in-one looks Create lasting appeal with elevated core basics, heirloom pieces and simple, wrapover styles. Opt for quality, sustainable fabrics that provide extra warmth and cosiness, such as so� quilting, natural fleece and responsibly sourced knits Introduce new, cosy textures to classic ballet-inspired looks Be inclusive Add value with multifunctional design Prioritise comfort and longevity 13 Glossário de circularidade Design voltado para revenda Ofereça produtos fabricados com qualidade, para que preservem seu valor e atraiam novos usuários no futuro. A revenda de produtos prolonga sua vida útil e ajuda a reduzir o uso de matérias-primas, energia e processos necessários para a fabricação de itens novos. Design voltado para longevidade Crie designs duradouros e versáteis. Fabrique itens modulares, com componentes removíveis e detalhes que permitam adaptação para diversos looks e situações. Use fechos ajustáveis e detalhes de design que possibilitem à peça se ajustar a diferentes tamanhos. Adquira materiais resistentes e de boa qualidade, produzindo peças duráveis e atemporais. Design voltado para reciclagem Com um design voltado para a reciclagem, a separação dos materiais e componentes de um produto se torna mais fácil para o reaproveitamento ao final de sua vida útil, além de possibilitar a remoção de cada elemento da peça para conserto ou substituição. Inovações como linhas de costura solúveis facilitam esse processo. Design voltado para reparos Crie produtos cuja manutenção e conserto sejam mais fáceis, prolongando sua funcionalidade e vida útil. Proporcione aos consumidores kits para costura e remendos e inclua materiais e detalhes de sobra de estoque, além de fazer parcerias com prestadores de serviços de conserto. Ofereça tutoriais de personalização criativa para envolver os clientes no processo de conserto. 14
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