Ajinomoto Formulationguide

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FORMULATION GUIDE
Where Amino Acids are the Essence of our Personal Care
2016
Amino acids are called the source 
of LIFE for good reasons. Our bodies’ 
muscles, organs, SKIN and HAIR are 
all made up of proteins, which are 
unique combinations of 20 types of 
AMINO ACIDS.
To bring the blessings of the earth 
and the very essence of life to 
more people, AJINOMOTO develops 
amino acid based PERSONAL CARE 
ingredients, FRIENDLY to people and 
to earth.
The aim of this formulary is to 
INSPIRE you in your existing or future 
product developments.
SOLUTIONS from Nature
CONTENTS
DISCOVER OUR 
NEW INGREDIENTS
06 Amisafe LL-DS-22 
 Facial wash paste
09 Amilite GCK-12H 
 Facial cleanser cream 
 Pearl body wash
12 Amisoft ECS-22W 
 Transparent shower gel
UPDATE ON 
GELATINIZATION AGENTS
26 Lipgloss
FOCUS ON AMIHOPE LL 16 Hand Cream
17 Loose Powder Foundation
18 BB Balm
19 Cushion Cream
20 Pearl Hair Shampoo
FORMULATION FINDER 28 
DISCOVER OUR NEW INGREDIENTS
76
Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier
A AMISOFT LS-11(F) 30,0 Foaming surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC
COCAMIDE MEA 1,0 Viscosity modifier AMISOL CME / Kawaken Fine 
Chemicals
STEARIC ACID 0,5 Foam quality improver NAA-180 / NOF
B AJIDEW NL-50 (50%) 1,0 Moisturizer AJINOMOTO CO. INC
PROPYLENE GLYCOL 12,0 Moisturizer
DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL 2,0 Moisturizer
GLYCERIN 3,0 Moisturizer
WATER balance
C GLYCOL STEARATE 0,5 Viscosity modifier EMALEX EGS-A / NIHON EMULSION
D PEG-150 STEARATE 5,0 Thickener EMANON 3199V / KAO
WATER 15,0
E AMISAFE LL-DS-22 (10%) 0,5 Foam booster, Sensory improver AJINOMOTO CO. INC
WATER 4,3
2% CITRIC ACID solution 0,2 pH Adjuster
FACIAL WASH PASTE
Amisafe LL-DS-22 improves foamability and leaves silky smooth dry skin-feel. 
Amisoft LS-11 (F) is used in a "ripening" process to get this facial cleansing paste. 
Amisoft also imparts moisturized feel to the skin as well as Ajidew NL-50.
LPS-88
1. Mix part E at room temperature and form a gel. 
2. Add part B to part A at room temperature and dissolve at 80°C. 
3. Add part C with stirring. 
4. Add part D at 70°C to part A and disperse. 
5. Cool down to crystallizing temperature (40~45°C). 
6. After cool down to 35°C, heat to crystallizing temperature with stirring (Ripening process).
7. Add part E with stirring. 
8. Cool down to 30°C.
PROCEDURE:
pH: 5.1 (1% aq.)
Stability: 0°C, 5°C, 25°C, 40°C, Cycle (-5°C<=>40°C) for one month.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
6
Lather speed: 
Evaluators prefered “Q” 
formulation (with Amisafe) as 
lather speed is quicker than 
“P” formulation’s one
SENSORY TEST: 
Evaluators rated sensory of LPS-88 formulation called “Q” (with AMISAFE) as “Good”, “Comparable” 
or “Bad” in comparison to the control formulation called “P” (without AMISAFE).
Technical data sheet: 0125-0720E
Water hardness of tap water: 60ppm as CaCO3
n=6
Total
Silky smooth
(dry skin feel)
Fine bubbles
Foam volume
Lather speed
0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100%
Preferable
Comparable
Unpreferable
7
988
FACIAL CLEANSER CREAM
A facial wash formula which contains AMILITE GCK-12H as a primary surfactant. This 
facial wash shows excellent foamability in spite of low active surfactant concentration. 
Cold- crystalization process is possible.
YSF-73-6
1. Prepare part A, part B and part C in separate vessels.
2. Dissolve part D with stirring.
3. Add part A to part D with stirring. 
4. Add part B to part A+D slowly with stirring. 
5. Add part C and disperse well until uniform.
6. Add part E and disperse well until uniform. 
7. Adjust pH with part F. 
8. Add part G with gentle stirring. 
PROCEDURE:
pH: 6.8 (1% aq.)
Stability: -5, 25, 45°C, for 1 month.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier
A PEG-14M 0,5 Viscosity modifier POLYOX WSR N-3000 / 
DOW CHEMICAL
WATER 9,5
B
HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH 
PHOSPHATE
2,0 Thickening polymer STRUCTURE XL / AKZO NOBEL
WATER 20,0
C ACRYLATES COPOLYMER(30%) 2,0 Thickening polymer CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 / LUBRIZOL
ACRYLATES/VINYL 
NEODECANOATE 
CROSSPOLYMER(29%)
3,0 Thickening polymer ACULYN 38 / DOW CHEMICAL
WATER 5,0
D AMILITE GCK-12H (30%) 33,0 Cleansing surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC
SODIUM 
LAUROAMPHOACETATE(30%)
3,0 Co-surfactant
SOFTAZOLINE LHL / 
KAWAKEN FINE CHEMICALS
LAURAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE(30%) 6,0 Co-surfactant
SOFTAZOLINE LPB / 
KAWAKEN FINE CHEMICALS
PRESERVATIVE q.s.
WATER balance
E TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0,3 Opacifier TIPEQUE CR-50 / 
ISHIHARA SANGYO
F CITRIC ACID (20%) 1,0 pH adjuster
THE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS 
PRESENTED AS A ROUGH GUIDE
G FRAGRANCE q.s. 
9
1110
Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier
A
SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE 
(70%)
7,20
Primary cleansing 
surfactant
TEXPON N-70 / BASF
AMILITE GCK-12H (30%) 10,00 Foam booster, texturizer AJINOMOTO CO. INC
SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE 3,30 Co-surfactant HOSTAPON SCI 85 G / CLARIANT
GLYCERINE 1,00 Moisturizer
SODIUM CHLORIDE 1,00 Viscosity modifier
PRESERVATIVE q.s.
WATER balance
B
HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH 
PHOSPHATE
5,00 Thickening polymer STRUCTURE XL / AKZO
C PETROLATUM 5,00 Emollient SUN WHITE P-200 / NIKKO RICA
D
COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 
(30%)
17,00 Co-surfactant DEHYTON K / BASF
E CITRIC ACID (20% aq.) 0,40 pH adjustment
THE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS 
PRESENTED AS A ROUGH GUIDE.
F FRAGRANCE q.s.
PEARL BODY WASH
This mild body wash is enriched with emollient oil. AMILITE GCK-12H provides a luxurious 
foam and quick lathering even in the presence of oils. With the "Nourishing by washing 
concept" even dry skins have excellent silky feeling after use.
DB-SW-15A-FA
1. Dissolve part A at 70 ~ 80°C with stirring.
2. Add part B to part A and mix well.
3. Add part C with stirring.
4. After confirmation of dissolution, add part D with stirring.
5. Cool down to 45°C, then add part E to adjust the pH to 7.0.
6. Add part F and cool down to room temperature with stirring.
PROCEDURE:
pH: 7,0
Viscosity: 25,000~36,000mPa·s (B-type, Rotor No.4, 12rpm, 
30sec., 25°C).
Stability: 0°C, 25°C, 45°C, cycle (-5<=>40°C) 1 month.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
10
Foaming surfactant
AMILITE® G
SLES
SCI Sodium cocoyl isethionate
LAA Sodium lauroamphoacetate
C12FA Sodium Laurate
CAPB
APG Decyl glucoside
MEA cocamide MEA
Below graph shows foam volume of a body wash* using Amilite GCK-12H 
vs other standard surfactants (dark blue bars). The light blue bars show the impact 
of oil addition on each formulation.
*Body wash 
Test Formulations
DB-KH7A 
(wt % )
Sodium laureth sulfate (70%) 7,2 
Cocamidopropyl betaine 
(30%) 17,0 
Foaming surfactant 3.0 active
Sodium cocoyl isethionate 3,3 
Glycerin 1,0 
Glycol distearate 1,0 
Laureth-4 1,0 
PPG-7 1,0 
Sodium chloride 0,8
Thickening polymers 1,5
Sodium hydroxide (10% aq.) to pH6.6
Water balance
Total (%) 100,0
150
140
130
120
Fo
a
m
 v
o
lu
m
e
 (
m
l)
110
100
GCK-12H SLES SCI LAA C12FA CAPB APG MEA
Mixer method, 1.0wt% body wash, 30°C
DB-KH7A
DB-KH7A+0.6% Petrolatum
Technical data sheet: 0115-1390E & 0115-1400E
11
Anionics surfactants
AMISOFT ECS-22W
SAR: Sodium lauroyl sarcosine
ISE: Sodium cocoyl isethionate
CMT: Sodium cocoyl methyl taurate 
SLES
1312
TRANSPARENT SHOWER GEL
KNS-054-21W-6
Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier
A AMISOFT ECS-22W (30%) 20,0 Primary foaming surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30%) 15,0
Secondary foaming 
surfactant
DEHYTON K / BASF
Sodium Lauroamphoacetate (32%) 4,7
Additional foaming 
surfactant
MIRANOL ULTRA L-32 / SOLVAY - RHODIA
Glyceryl Caprate 2,0Viscosity modifier SUNSOFT NO.760 / TAIYO KAGAKU 
KOGYO
Glycerin 2,0 Moisturizer
Sodium Chloride 0,3 Viscosity modifier
PEG-150 Distearate 0,4 Thickening polymer EMANON 3299V / KAO
Water balance
Preservatives q.s.
B Fragrance q.s.
C Citric Acid (20% aq.) 4,7 pH adjustment
THE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS PRESENTED 
AS A ROUGH GUIDE.
A viscous, sulfate-free, DEA-free clear shower gel. AMISOFT ECS-22W produces rich 
foam and creamy lather even at weakly acidic pH range. Amisoft can be used as a 
primary surfactant and is easy to thicken.
1. Mix part A until homogeneous with stirring at 70~80°C.
2. Cool down to 50°C with stirring.
3. Add part B.
4. Adjust pH to 5.8 ~ 6.0 by part C and cool down to r.t. with stirring.
PROCEDURE:
pH: 5,8
Viscosity: 4,000 ~ 8,000 mPa·s (B-type, Rotor No.3 12rpm, 30sec., 25°C).
Stability: 25°C, 45°C, cycle(-5<=>40°C) 1 month.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
12
*Shampoo 
Test Formulas (wt % )
Anionic surfactants 6,0 active
Cocamidopropyl betaine (30%) 15,0
Sodium lauroamphoacetate (32%) 4,7
Glyceryl caprate 2,0
Sodium chloride 0,5
PEG-150 distearate 1,0
Citric acid pH 5.8
Water balance
Preservatives q.s.
Total (%) 100,0
Stir at around 3,400 rpm (the lowest 
speed of the mixer) for 10 sec.
Foam volume (mL)1. 550 mL beaker
2. Dilute a shampoo 2~5 g 
with water (35°C) to 100 g
1
2
METHOD:
Fo
a
m
 v
o
lu
m
e
 (
m
l)
Sulfate-free formulation
Fo
a
m
 s
ta
b
ili
ty
 
 (
%
)
A
fte
r 5
 m
in
ut
e
s
250 40
50
60
70
80
90
260
270
280
290
300
310
ECS-22W SAR ISE CMT SLES
5% as is, 35°C, tap water (water hardness: 60ppm as CaCO3) 
Technical data sheet: 0101-4110E
Below graph shows foam volume (blue bars) and foam stability ( ) of 
a shampoo* containing Amisoft ECS-22W vs the same formulation using 
other standard anionic surfactants.
13
FOCUS ON AMIHOPE LL
1716
HAND CREAM
In this hand cream formulation AMIHOPE LL improves absorbency of the cream as 
well as silky smooth skinfeel. Amisoft HS-11P is used as a co-emulsifier at a very low 
percentage to get a very stable formulation.
NEH-3
Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier
A MINERAL OIL 13,0 Emollient MORESCOWHITE P70 / MORESCO
PARAFFIN 8,0 Emollient REFINED PARAFFIN WAX / NIKKO RIKA
HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 1,0 Emollient CASTOR WAX A / NOF
STEARYL ALCOHOL 2,0 Emollient
STEARETH-2 6,0 Emulsifier EMALEX 602 / NIHON EMULSION
PEG-8 DISTEARATE 1,2 Emulsifier EMALEX 400di-S / NIHON EMULSION
STEARETH-8 0,4 Emulsifier EMALEX 608 / NIHON EMULSION
CETETH-15 0,3 Emulsifier EMALEX 115 / NIHON EMULSION
ZINC STEARATE 0,2 Texture improver ZINC STEARATE / NOF
AMIHOPE LL 0,5 Texture improver AJINOMOTO CO. INC
B AMISOFT HS-11P 0,1 Co Emulsifier AJINOMOTO CO. INC
PRESERVATIVE q.s.
WATER balance
1. Dissolve and disperse part A with stirring at 80°C. 
2. Add part B at 80°C to part A slowly with stirring. 
3. Cool down to room temperature with stirring.
PROCEDURE:
pH: 6,5
Viscosity: 37,500 - 50,000 mPa.s (B type, rotor N°.4, 12rpm, 30sec., 25°C).
Stability: 50°C, 25°C, -5°C, Cycle (-5°C<=>40°C) for one month.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
16
Part Ingredient (wt % ) Trade name / Supplier
A TALC, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER 18,00 TALC DN-SH / DAI NIHON KASEI
MICA, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER 54,90 SI01-2 MICA No.5500 / DAITO KASEI
TITANIUM DIOXIDE 18,00 CR-50 / ISHIHARA SANGYO
TITANIUM DIOXIDE, ALUMINUM STEARATE 3,00 MT-100Z / TAYCA
IRON OXIDE, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER (Red) 0,60 SI01-2 TALLOX LLXLO / DAI NIHON KASEI
IRON OXIDE, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER (Yellow) 1,50 SI01-2 TALLOX R-516L / DAI NIHON KASEI
IRON OXIDE, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER (Black) 0,30 SI01-2 TALLOX BL-100 / DAI NIHON KASEI
SILICA 0,50 SUNSPHERE H-51 / ASAHI GLASS
AMIHOPE LL 2,00 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
METHYLPARABEN 0,20
B TRIETHYLHEXANOIN 0,59 NIKKOL TRIFAT S-308 / NIKKO CHEMICALS
ELDEW PS-203R 0,20 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
ELDEW SL-205 0,20 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
TOCOPHEROL 0,01
LOOSE POWDER FOUNDATION
This powder foundation provides excellent coverage without sacrificing natural 
finish. AMIHOPE LL imparts several features to it: smooth spreadability, good 
adhesion, excellent coverage, non-drying, matte, not shimmering, natural finish. 
On top, AMIHOPE LL reduces drying feel of powders. Eldew SL-205 and 
Eldew PS-203R are used for their emollience properties. This formulation 
containing a lot of powders, Eldew SL-205 is used to improve their dispersability.
LP-0401-3
1. Weigh all ingredients of part A and mill them. 
2. Mix part B with heating to 40°C. 
3. Add part B to Part A and mill again.
PROCEDURE:
A silicon-treated talc was added to a commercial talc-free loose powder foundation (Foundation A): 
This pre-mix is called Foundation B: 40wt% of talc added to 60% of foundation. 
Then 2wt% of Amihope LL were added to Foundation B to get Foundation C.
The foundations were applied to artificial leather (Idemitsu Technofine) by a standardized manner and 
observed by a video microscope.
Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, emollients (oils), antioxidant, preservatives, pigments (ion dioxides etc.).
Talc imparted soft, smooth touch to the spreading feel, and dry, light feel on the skin. With additional 2wt% 
AMIHOPE LL, natural sheer finish, non-drying feel and coverage were improved. Evaluation on the artificial 
leather also showed sheer, non-cakey finish (Figure 3, left part) and even film over furrows and ridges 
(Figure 3, right part).
IN-USE TEST:
Figure 1 - Talc-free product 
(Foundation A)
Figure 2 - Foundation B
(Silicone-treated talc added)
Figure 3 - Foundation C
(2% AMIHOPE LL added)
17
1918
Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier
A TRIETHYLHEXANOIN 38.92 Emollient NIKKOL TRIFAT S-308 / NIKKO CHEMICALS
CYCLOPENTASILOXANE 5.20 Emollient SILICONE STV-5 / 
DOW CORNING
TITANIUM DIOXIDE 7.42 UV filter TTO-D2 / 
ISHIHARA SANGYO
SILICA, METHICONE 4.67 Texturizer SI-5 SILDEX H-52 / 
DAITO KASEI
MICA, DEA-C8-18 
PERFLUOROALKYLETHYL PHOSPHATE 
1.85 Extender PF-5 MICA N°.5500 / 
DAITO KASEI
POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE 5.93 Texturizer TOSPEARL 2000B / 
MOMENTIVE
AMIHOPE LL 1.00 Sensory improver AJINOMOTO CO. INC
ELDEW PS-203R 0.50 Pseudo-ceramide AJINOMOTO CO. INC
B PIGMENT DISPERSION (WHITE) 10.72 Pigment DIDW 50 DF / KOBO
PIGMENT DISPERSION (YELLOW) 1.03 Pigment DIDW 45 DYF / KOBO
PIGMENT DISPERSION (RED) 0.33 Pigment DIDW 40 DRF / KOBO
PIGMENT DISPERSION (BLACK) 0.17 Pigment DIDW 55 DBF / KOBO
C OCTYLDODECANOL 18.75 Solubilizer for GP-1 EUTANOL G / BASF
GELATINIZATION AGENT GP-1 3.50 Oil gelling agent AJINOMOTO CO. INC
BB BALM
A highly concealing foundation formulation using our pseudo-ceramide ingredient 
Eldew PS-203R. Amihope LL, our functional powder and our amino acid derived 
Gelatinization Agent GP-1 provide good spreadability, turning the smooth oil gel into 
powder, leaving a non-oily silky soft feel on the skin.
ACAC-BB-08
1. Mix part B until uniform at room temperature. 
2. Mix part A at room temperature.
3. Dissolve part C at 120°C with stirring.
4. Heat part A around 80 - 90°C.
5. Add part B to part A while heating around 80-90°C.
6. Add part C to mixer and mix at 80°C.
7. Pour into a jar quickly. Cool down to room temperature without mixing.
PROCEDURE:
Stability: 1, 25, 45°C, Cycle (-5 n<=>40°C), for 3 months.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
418
Part Ingredient (wt % ) Trade name / Supplier
A Aqua q.s.
Sclerotium Gum 0,30 ACTIGUM VSX 20 / CARGILL
Carrageenan 0,30 SATIAGUM CD / CARGILL
Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer (and) Water 
(and) Aminomethyl Propanol 5,00 KOBOGUARD 50 AMP / KOBO
B METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE1,00 GLUCATE SS / LUBRIZOL
PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE 3,00 GLUCAMATE SSE-20 / LUBRIZOL
Eldew SL-205 0,20 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
Isopropyl Isostearate 6,00 SCHERCEMOL 318 / LUBRIZOL
 Phenyltrimethicone 2,00 BRB PTM 20 / BRB
Trimethylsiloxysilicate (and) Dimethicone 2,50 BRB TMS 30D / BRB
Titanium Dioxide (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) 
Hydrated Silica (and) Algin (And) Aluminum Hydroxide 6,00 COMPOSITE ACT 50 / KOBO
Amihope LL 1,00 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
Tocopherol 0,10 DL-ALPHA TOCOPHEROL / EISAI
C Iron Oxides [C.I. 77492] (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum 3,50 GLW45GYSP / KOBO
Iron Oxides [C.I. 77492] (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) 
Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum 0,50 GLW55GRSP / KOBO
 Iron Oxides [C.I. 77499] (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) 
Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum 0,25 GLW60GBSP / KOBO
Titanium Dioxide (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) 
Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum 6,00 GLW75PFSP / KOBO
D Preservatives 1,00
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) Alumina 1,50 MSP-AK06/ KOBO
Fragrance 0,20 PARFUM ORANGE BLOSSOM / IFF
 Mica (and) Titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides (C.J.77491) 0,12 KTZ SUNBURST GOLD/ KOBO
CUSHION CREAM 
The lightweight water foundation is inspired from the Korean concept of Cushion 
Cream. Eldew SL-205 helps dispersing pigments without sticky effect. Amihope LL 
gives silky feeling during application, which is really easy thanks to the pad.
CUSHION CREAM
1. Heat water and Koboduard 50AMP up to 70-75°C.
2. Add Actigum VSX20 and Satiagum CD while stirring, until complete gel formation.
3. Heat phase B at 70-75°C
4. At 70-75°C under stirring, poor phase B in Phase A. Homogenised for 2 minutes (Ultra-Turrax, 7200rpm). 
Cool it down to 40°C.
5. Prepare phase C and add it to previous one (40°C). Stir until homogeneous colour is obtained.
6. Add phase D and then phase E. Stir.
7. Adjust pH at 5.6-5.8.After 24h, pH will increase.
PROCEDURE:
pH: 6.1-6.3
Viscosity: 680 cPs (RVT mobile SC4-21, speed 50).
Stability: 1 month at 50°C / 3 months at 40°C.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
5 19
2120
PEARL HAIR SHAMPOO
Preparation of recrystallized Amihope LL concentrate:
When AMIHOPE LL is precipitated in a surfactant solution the particle size tends to be 
smaller and the dispersing the LL in a liquid cleansing formulation is easier. 
This AMIHOPE LL concentrate is stable, suitable as a premix for various preparations.
NSPX-0019
LL Concentrate
(wt %)
AMIHOPE LL 12,5 
Lauryl glucoside (50%) 15,0 
Decyl glucoside (50%) 15,0 
Sodium hydroxide 2,7 
Citric acid (30% aq.) 4,0 
Water to 100.0
AMIHOPE LL 12.5
NaOH 2.7
Water 34.8
Stir and dissolve
at room 
temperature
Stir and dissolve
at room 
temperature
Stir at room 
temperature*1*2
Lauryl glucoside (50%)*A 15.0
Decyl glucoside (50%)*B 15.0
*A PLANTACARE 1200up Cognis
*B PLANTACARE 2000up Cognis
*1 The condition of stirring depends on the vessel size or the 
impeller shape. Particle size of AMIHOPE LL tends to be 
smaller when being precipitated at lower temperature 
and with stronger stirring. 
*2 Stir more gently once the formulation becomes 
thickened in order to avoid bubble entanglement.
Clear
Avoid bubble formation.
Remove the entangled bubble before the next step.
Precipitation
Citric acid (30% aq.) 20.0
Cf. The adding rate: 
0.1g / sec (100g scale)
Recrystallized AMIHOPE LL 
concentrate
Technical data sheet: 0501-0261E
20
This mild shampoo is suitable for natural concept: thanks to the use of recrystallized 
Amihope LL concentrate, a natural pearlescent effect is obtained. In addition, 
AMIHOPE LL improves conditioning property of the shampoo. Amisoft CS-22 is used 
as a natural cleansing surfactant.
1. Thoroughly disperse part A in part B at room temperature. 
2. Add part C to part A and stir until homogeneous at room temperature. 
3. In a separate vessel mix part D and stir until it becomes clear. 
4. Add part E to part D with gentle stirring.
5. While agitating part D add part F and stir until homogeneous 
concentrate preparation
6. Add part D to part A with stirring. 
7. Adjust the pH to 5.4 with part G.
PROCEDURE:
pH: 5,4 
Viscosity: 2,000 - 3,000 mPa.s (B type, rotor No.3, 30rpm, 30sec., 25°C).
Stability: 50°C, 40°C, 25°C, 0°C, -5°C, Cycle for a month.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
Part Ingredient (wt %) Function Trade name / Supplier
A XANTHAN GUM 1,00 Thickening polymer KELTROL CGT / CP KELCO
B WATER 49,00
C AMISOFT CS-22 (25%) 10,00 Cleansing surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC
COCO-GLUCOSIDE (52%) 6,00 Co-surfactant PLANTACARE 818UP / BASF
GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 2,00 Foam booster SUNSOFT 700-P2 / TAIYO KAGAKU
ARGININE 0,30 Foam booster AJINOMOTO CO. INC
WATER balance
D
AMIHOPE LL 0,63 Conditioning / peralizing agent 
& foam booster
AJINOMOTO CO. INC
SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0,14 Neutralizer for LL
WATER 2,43
E LAURYL GLUCOSIDE (50%) 0,75 Dispersing agent PLANTACARE 1200UP / BASF
DECYL GLUCOSIDE (50%) 0,75 Dispersing agent PLANTACARE 2000UP / BASF
F CITRIC ACID (30% AQ.) 1,00 pH adjuster
G
CITRIC ACID (30% AQ.) 2,00 pH adjuster THE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS PRESENTED 
AS A ROUGH GUIDE.
21
3+4+5 = recrystallized Amihope LL
2322
PEARL HAIR SHAMPOO
NSPX-0019
SENSORY TEST:
By addition of AMIHOPE LL to a hair shampoo formulation using recrystallized Amihope LL concentrate, 
foamability and hair-feel during washing and rinsing are improved.
Without AMIHOPE LL With AMIHOPE LL
Lauryl glucoside (50%) 9,0 9,0 
AMISOFT CS-22 (25%) 20,0 20,0 
Citric acid (30% aq.) 2,7 2,7 
Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate 4,0 4,0 
AMISAFE AL-01 0,2 0,2 
Magnesium chloride 1,5 1,5 
Glyceryl caprate 3,0 3,0 
A: Control 5,0 -
B: AMIHOPE LL concentrate - 5,0 
Water to 100.0 to 100.0
AMIHOPE LL conc. (wt%) 0,000 0,625
A: Control B: LL Concentrate
AMIHOPE LL - 12,5 
Lauryl glucoside (50%) 15,0 15,0 
Decyl glucoside (50%) 15,0 15,0 
Sodium hydroxide 2,7 2,7 
Citric acid (30% aq.) 4,0 4,0 
Water to 100.0 to 100.0
Technical data sheet: 0501-0261E
Below pictures show result of the formulation NSPX-0019 using Amihope LL 
(left bottle and drop) and the result without Amihope LL (right bottle and drop):
22
Technical data sheet: 0501-0191E
The shampoo with AMIHOPE LL was perceived as better performing in terms 
of foamability, finger-through during washing, hair smoothness and detangling 
property during rinse.
n=11
Foam quality
Foam speed
Foam volume
During
washing
During
rinsing
After
rinsing
Finger through
Hair softness
Hair smoothness
Detangling
Wet hair smoothness
Preference
Shampoo with AMIHOPE LL is Better Equal WorseSENSORY TEST RESULT:
23
UPDATE ON GELATINIZATION AGENTS
2726
LIPGLOSS
GELATINIZATION AGENTS: 
To get gelatinization agents, we add an alkyl long chain to glutamic acid. The alkyl chain of 
EB-21 is branched and the one of GP-1 is linear. On top, each gelatinization agent has 3 amide 
functions which can form hydrogen bonds.
LGMS-B10GP
You can get really innovative products thanks to the kind of texture obtained with our gelling 
agents. It is possible to get a jelly (as on the right hand picture) or a hard gel but it is not 
possible to get a viscous oil (as on the left hand picture).
L-Glutamic acid
H2N
O
O
OH
OH
Achievable textures by 
gelatinization agents
Oil gel
ACHIEVABLE
Texture that cannot be achieved 
by gelatinization agents
Viscous Oil,
flowable
NOT ACHIEVABLE
*
CTFA INCI Name: Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide
GP-1
H
N N
H
N
H
EB-21
CTFA INCI Name: Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide
O O
H
N N
H
N
H
*
26
*
V
is
c
o
si
ty
 (
Pa
 s
)
Viscosity of
commercial
lip gloss
Hydrogenatedpolyisobutene: Octyldodecanol = 80 : 20
Concentration of EB-21, GP-1 (wt%)
0
0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
10
20
30
40
60
50
Part Ingredient (wt % ) Trade name / Supplier
A GP-1 0,4 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
OCTYLDODECANOL 10,0 RISONOL 20SP / KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO 
B TRIETHYLHEXANOIN 25,0 NIKKOL TRIFAT S-308 / NIKKO CHEMICALS
DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 10,0 COSMOL 222S / NISSHIN OILLIO
ELDEW PS-203R 8,0 AJINOMOTO CO. INC
TOCOPHEROL q.s.
PRESERVATIVE q.s.
C HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE balance PARLEAM V / NOF
HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE 20,0 PARLEAM HV / NOF
D PEARLESCENT PIGMENT q.s. REFLECKS RAYS OF RED / BASF
GP-1 is used in this lipgloss formulation to reduce stringy effect of hydrogenated 
polyisobutene. On top, it enables excellent transparency and non-sticky feeling on the 
lips. Eldew PS-203R, our ceramide-like ingredient, is used as a damage prevention and 
damage repair ingredient.
1. Dissolve part A at 92°C with stirring.
2. Add part B to part A at 75°C, and mix well.
3. Add part C to part A at 70°C, and mix well.
4. Add part D to part A at 70°C, and mix well.
5. Cool down to room temperature.
PROCEDURE:
Stability: 5°C, 25°C, 40°C, Cycle (-5<=>40°C) for 1 month.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION:
Below formulation is a great example showing how our gelatinization agents can reduce stringy 
effect. Indeed EB-21/GP-1 can increase the viscosity of viscous oils such as hydrogenated 
polyisobutene.
Not stringy while lifting up but good spreadability during rubbing
EB-21 GP-1
27
2928
Product category Product Formulation ref Application Page
Amilite GCK-12H
YSF-73-6
Facial Cleanser 
Cream
09
DB-SW-15A-FA Pearl Body Wash 10
Amisoft ECS-22W KNS-054-21W-6
Transparent 
Shower Gel
12
ANIONIC SURFACANT Amisoft CS-22 NSPX-0019 Pearl Hair 
Shampoo
20
Amisoft HS-11P NEH-3 Hand Cream 16
Amisoft LS-11(F) LPS-88
Facial Wash 
Paste
06
HUMECTANT
Ajidew NL-50 LPS-88
Facial Wash 
Paste
06
Amisfe LL-DS-22 LPS-88
Facial Wash 
Paste
06
FORMULATION FINDER Product category Product
Formulation 
ref Application Page
LP-0401-3
Loose Powder 
Foundation
17
Eldew PS-203R ACAC-BB-08 BB Balm 18
EMOLLIENT
LGMS-B10GP
Transparent 
Lipgloss
26
Eldew SL-205
LP-0401-3
Loose Powder 
Foundation
17
Cushion 
Cream
Cushion 
Cream
19
NEH-3 Hand Cream 16
LP-0401-3
Loose Powder 
Foundation
17
FUNCTIONAL POWDER Amihope LL ACAC-BB-08 BB Balm 18
Cushion 
Cream
Cushion 
Cream
19
NSPX-0019
Pearl Hair 
Shampoo
20
GELATINIZATION AGENTS GP-1
ACAC-BB-08 BB Balm 18
LGMS-B10GP
Transparent 
Lipgloss
26
AMINO ACID L-Arginince C NSPX-0019 Pearl Hair 
Shampoo
20
3130
NOTES
Note: The information is provided based upon our technical data and present knowledge. However, we make no warranties, expressed or 
implied, and assume no liabilities in connection with any use of the information with respect to specific property, safety and suitability for a 
specific application. It is also not guaranteed that use of the information does not fall within the scope of any intellectual property rights.
CONTACT
S.A. Ajinomoto OmniChem N.V.
Industrial Research Park Fleming 
B-1348 Louvain-la-Neuve 
Belgium
Phone : +32 10 48 32 22
Fax: +32 10 45 62 27
ASD-sales-SC@aoc.ajinomoto.com
www.ulprospector.com