Fashion value brands the relationship between identity and image

Prévia do material em texto

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International
Journal
Fashion value brands: the relationship between identity and image
Jill Ross, Rod Harradine,
Article information:
To cite this document:
Jill Ross, Rod Harradine, (2011) "Fashion value brands: the relationship between identity and image",
Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, Vol. 15 Issue: 3, pp.306-325, doi:
10.1108/13612021111151914
Permanent link to this document:
http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/13612021111151914
Downloaded on: 12 May 2017, At: 07:05 (PT)
References: this document contains references to 72 other documents.
To copy this document: permissions@emeraldinsight.com
The fulltext of this document has been downloaded 18631 times since 2011*
Users who downloaded this article also downloaded:
(2011),"An exploration of fashion retailer own brand strategies", Journal of Fashion
Marketing and Management: An International Journal, Vol. 15 Iss 1 pp. 91-107 http://
dx.doi.org/10.1108/13612021111112368
(2006),"Buyer behaviour for fast fashion", Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International
Journal, Vol. 10 Iss 3 pp. 329-344 http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/13612020610679303
Access to this document was granted through an Emerald subscription provided by emerald-srm:478535 []
For Authors
If you would like to write for this, or any other Emerald publication, then please use our Emerald for
Authors service information about how to choose which publication to write for and submission guidelines
are available for all. Please visit www.emeraldinsight.com/authors for more information.
About Emerald www.emeraldinsight.com
Emerald is a global publisher linking research and practice to the benefit of society. The company
manages a portfolio of more than 290 journals and over 2,350 books and book series volumes, as well as
providing an extensive range of online products and additional customer resources and services.
Emerald is both COUNTER 4 and TRANSFER compliant. The organization is a partner of the Committee
on Publication Ethics (COPE) and also works with Portico and the LOCKSS initiative for digital archive
preservation.
*Related content and download information correct at time of download.
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
Fashion value brands:
the relationship between identity
and image
Jill Ross and Rod Harradine
Teesside University Business School, Teesside University, Middlesbrough, UK
Abstract
Purpose – This study seeks to develop previous research into value branding by investigating
potential misalignments between brand identity as intended by the brand owner, and the way in which
the brand image is perceived by young consumers.
Design/methodology/approach – Kapferer’s model was used to create a detailed brand identity
for a value fashion brand. A survey of 150 business students provided a map to identify any gaps
between the intended and perceived brand image. Theoretical concepts underpinning the paper
include value branding and the relationship between brand identity and brand image.
Findings – A marked difference was observed in the way in which value brands are intended and
how they are perceived; these misalignments may have significant implications. In particular, young
consumers’ perceptions of value brands’ fashion content could create barriers during decision making.
However, the relationship facet indicates potential for developing lifelong loyalty from the sample.
Research limitations/implications – The research provided a visual map of perceived brand
image to allow comparison between identity and image. A longitudinal study could identify how
attitudes might change throughout the purchasing life of the sample group.
Practical implications – It was found that the brand owner needed to develop and effectively
communicate the reflection element of brand identity to improve the perception of how the typical
customer is viewed by others.
Originality/value – The relationship between brand identity and brand image is particularly
important in the value fashion sector. Although some research has been undertaken in this field, it
mainly relates to how corporate brands are perceived, while this study focuses on the product level.
Keywords Brand identity, Brand image, Value brands, Fashion, Young consumers
Paper type Research paper
1. Introduction
This study develops previous research undertaken by the authors considering the
relationship between young consumers and fashion brands, exploring aspects such as
brand recognition and value clothing brands (Ross and Harradine, 2010). Using a
combination of wearer trials and focus groups, it was established that young
consumers’ perceptions of supermarket value clothing brands tended to inhibit a
positive engagement. There were negative perceptions of value brands, but it was
found that those students who had actual experience of Tesco value brand clothing
were more favourable towards these products. Even with this experience, the wearer
trial participants stated that they were unlikely to change their purchasing intentions
and were deterred by the image surrounding value brands and their level of fashion
credibility.
The current issue and full text archive of this journal is available at
www.emeraldinsight.com/1361-2026.htm
JFMM
15,3
306
Received September 2010
Revised September 2010
Accepted April 2011
Journal of Fashion Marketing and
Management
Vol. 15 No. 3, 2011
pp. 306-325
q Emerald Group Publishing Limited
1361-2026
DOI 10.1108/13612021111151914
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
The secondary research undertaken however, suggests that the media and
supermarkets are very positive about the fashion content of value brands and the
emulation of designer looks into value clothing (Winterman, 2006; Smithers, 2008).
This indicates a potential gap between how a brand intends to be viewed by target
customers and how it is actually perceived. Given the importance of the youth segment
to the fashion market and the effects of branding on loyalty, it is important for retailers
to ensure compatibility between the projected brand identity, and how this is received
in order to attract such consumers. This paper extends the previous work and
considers the potential differences between the perceptions of young consumers and
the views of the media and supermarkets towards their brands. By examining any
misalignments between a brand’s intended identity and perceived image, the
implications for supermarket brands in terms of future relationships with this segment
can be further explored.
The growing role and influence of supermarkets in the clothing sector has been well
documented, contributing to changes in consumer behaviour related to value fashion
brands (Bruce and Daly, 2006; Ross and Harradine, 2010). In the context of this paper,
the term “value brand” refers to clothing that is both price led and fashion orientated,
and it is notable that this sector is growing at a faster rate than other sections of the
market (Mintel Oxygen, 2007, 2008). Although the growth could be regarded as
predictable due to the current economic downturn, it is expected to remain a strong
segment when the recession ends (Hopkins, 2009; Steiner, 2009) and it is suggested that
the importance of value fashion will continue into the recovery period (Mintel Oxygen,
2008). Boyle (2009) argues that consumers in developed countries are likely to remain
price sensitive after the slump is over, noting that customers are making more value
based choices.
The provision of value branded clothing provides supermarkets with an
opportunity to strengthen their fashion credibility by offering fashion influenced
products at the same time as more expensive, fashionled brands ( Jackson and Shaw,
2009). Verdict (2009) forecasts that the largest supermarkets will grow their share of
the value clothing market, as consumers continue to seek the best value for money.
The combination of low prices and implied need for high volume sales has led to the
development of disposable fashion (Birstwistle and Moore, 2007). The low price of the
product can, however, reflect negatively on perceptions of quality, as price often sends
quality cues to customers (Jobber, 2010) underlining the importance of players in the
value market focussing not simply on price but adding value to the whole shopping
experience (Attwood, 2007; Davis, 2010). It could be argued that if consumers are
continuing to look for and expect low prices, the role of the retailer’s brand image
becomes ever more important in attracting consumers to make initial and repeat
purchases, with Verdict (2009) suggesting that supermarkets need to differentiate
themselves in order to give customers a clear reason to visit.
The importance of young consumers in terms of their actual clothing consumption
and the length of their purchasing life has been clearly stated (Leroux and Hawkes,
2008; Mulyanegara and Tsarenko, 2009) and it follows, therefore, that this group need
to perceive the retailer’s brand image in the way intended in order that the required
purchasing momentum is achieved. Ross and Harradine (2004) explored the stages of
childrens’ development as independent consumers and established that by the time
such children are in higher education they are experienced consumers with an
Fashion value
brands
307
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
understanding of brand associations and brand image. Mintel Oxygen (2009) identified
that students are attractive as consumers as they represent a large proportion of future
high earners. The same report considers this segment to be a “blank canvas”
underlining the importance of brands successfully targeting this group at an early
stage in order to maximise the potential for future loyalty.
To investigate young consumers’ perceptions of supermarkets’ clothing brand
image, the following objectives were identified and addressed, with a continued focus
on Tesco value brand clothing:
. to investigate the terms “brand identity” and “brand image” and consider the
importance of these concepts in a value branding context;
. to establish the degree of alignment between a supermarket’s intended brand
identity and young consumers perceived brand image; and
. to investigate the implications of any misalignment between brand identity and
image as perceived by young consumers.
The Tesco brand was chosen, as it is hugely popular with shoppers, and a dominating
force in the UK market. Tesco has a clearly structured fashion brand hierarchy with
distinct sub-brands such as F&F and Cherokee, whose fashion content and brand
values are explicitly communicated to a younger audience through brand specific
television campaigns. Given this investment in promotion, it is critical that the
consumer perceives the brand in the way that the retailer intends. Martenson (2007)
notes that Tesco has developed a look and feel for its own-brand products that reflect
its brand values and that some of the most successful corporate brands in the world are
retail brands. However, Tesco also has a brand image problem relating to its
personification as a big impersonal corporation (Mediaweek, 2007) with Clarke (2008)
indicating that it was both the most loved and most-hated supermarket in a recent
brand poll. These divergent viewpoints would suggest that this particular brand
warrants investigation given the importance of branding in ensuring competitive
success over the long term (Davis, 2010). In increasingly turbulent and competitive
markets brands are ways of creating trust, stability and differentiation (Rindell and
Strandvik, 2010) justifying the current research as topical, and relevant.
2. Literature review
Keller (2008) regards brands as having dimensions that differentiate them from other
products designed to satisfy the same need; these differences may be rational and
tangible, or symbolic, emotional and intangible. Kapferer (2008) states that identity is
the expression of both the tangible and intangible characteristics of the brand, giving
authority and legitimacy to the precise values and benefits. Given that values are
understood to be a powerful force in terms of influencing consumer behaviour
(de Chernatony and McDonald, 2003), it seems appropriate to consider brand identity
and its influence on how the consumer might perceive the brand proposition.
2.1 Brand identity and brand image
In a business context, the concept of “identity” appears to be subject to interpretation;
while recognising its importance as the prime interface between an organization and its
audiences, Smith and Taylor (2002) regard the notion as one that is largely confined to
the visual expression of the company. Duncan (2002) adopts a similar stance when
JFMM
15,3
308
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
focusing on the brand, stating that identity consists of visual identification cues such
as brand symbols and distinctive typography that collectively create brand
recognition. Balmer (2008) states, however, that our comprehension of identity has
moved on, with increasing prominence now given to a corporation’s traits, with visual
identification and symbolism being of lesser importance. Reizebos (2003) also argues
that it is important to distinguish between brand identity and visual identity, with the
latter regarded as a natural extension of the chosen brand identity, representing it in a
visual way. There appears to be greater agreement, however, that identity resides with
the sender (Kapferer, 2008; Harris and de Chernatony, 2001; Randall, 2000) who is
responsible for specifying the meaning, aim and self-image of the brand (Kapferer,
2008) and should be based on the core competences of the company, flowing directly
from their superior skills and resources (Alsem and Kostelijk, 2008). The critical
importance of the concept is elaborated on by Mottram (1998) who argues that
successful identities of the future will be based on a fundamental understanding of the
vision, personality, culture and expression of the corporate brand throughout the
company, and that it is only when this understanding exists that the visual style of the
corporation can be developed.
Conversely, image is regarded as a reflection of consumers’ perceptions of a brand,
and can be gauged by the associations held in the memory (de Chernatony and
McDonald, 2003; Keller, 2008), with Reizebos (2003) stating that it is a shared
subjective mental picture. Keller (1993) argues that brand familiarity and favourable,
strong, unique brand associations result in customer-based brand equity, which will
influence consumer response to the marketing of a brand. These brand associations are
categorised by Keller (1993, 1998) as attributes (the descriptive product and
non-product related features), benefits (the functional, experiential and symbolic
personal value attached to the brand) and attitudes (the overall evaluation of the brand
that often forms the basis of consumer behaviour). Duncan (2002) asserts that the
resulting impression is created by both brand messages and experiences that are
assimilated into a perception through the processing of information. Kapferer (2008)
states that identity should precede image and that prior to brand image-projection, the
organisation or individual must know exactly what it is that they want to communicate
to the audience. Wood and Pierson (2006) argue that retailer success depends on
consumers having positive associations that encourage trial andsubsequent loyalty.
Based on the brand identity and image relationship, and the principle that identity
is the source of brand positioning that can be used to attack a market with a view to
growing market share at the expense of the competition (Kapferer, 2008), the
importance of brand identity seems to be beyond doubt. The need for organisations to
seriously consider this is further enhanced when taking into account the competitive
nature of business whereby the consumer is saturated with communications and
technology has encouraged product similarity (Kapferer, 2008). Alsem and Kostelijk
(2008) state that identity represents a stable point of reference for consumers and is a
cornerstone in the process of creating and maintaining relationships with customers
who find specific values appealing. This is, in part, explained by the strength of
understanding experienced by customers, which helps to build trust and results in
brand differentiation (Ghodeswar, 2008). Harris and de Chernatony (2001) state that
managers need to examine the stakeholder’s view of their brand’s reputation to ensure
that brand identity is successfully communicated and that the valued outcomes are
Fashion value
brands
309
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
delivered consistently. It is argued, however, that managers often have a more positive
picture of their brand than that perceived by consumers, and that there can be a
discrepancy between brand identity and the resulting brand image (Bromley, 1993).
Despite the consequences of any misalignment between brand identity and image,
Cheng et al. (2008) state that while many studies have focused on the gap between
management’s internal vision and employees’ external perceptions, they have failed to
explore the perceived identity gap. Alsem and Kostelijk (2008) also propose that more
research be undertaken to investigate the relationship between brand identity and the
customer. Given that identity should precede any consideration of image, it was
determined that an appropriate theoretical model be identified to underpin the
methodology.
Although other frameworks for examining brand identity exist, Kapferer’s Brand
Identity Prism (2008) was selected on the basis of its appropriateness to the product
type and market level. Beverland (2004) provides a structure, which identifies and
unites six component brand dimensions but this focussed on luxury brands and the
difference between identity and image is not explicit. Harris and de Chernatony (2001)
present an alternative model but the emphasis is placed on brand team perception and
performance rather than a more consumer focussed approach afforded by Kapferer
(2008).
2.2 Facets of brand identity
Louis and Lombart (2010) regard brand identity as all the elements that form the
existence of a brand; when using the Kapferer (2008) model as a framework, the
concept is comprised of six facets (physique, personality, relationship, culture,
reflection and self-image) that allow the company to specify their brand’s meaning.
Kapferer (2008) refers to the “physique” component of the brand identity prism as
the physical aspect of the brand in terms of what it is and what it does and, in this
context, it is probably the most tangible element of brand identity. With reference to
the “personality” component, Southgate (1994) argues that consumers subconsciously
ascribe human characteristics to brands and tend to be drawn to those projecting the
most appropriate personality. This element of brand identity encompasses the
emotional characteristics that evolve from, in part, the brand’s core values (Harris and
de Chernatony, 2001), with Brengman and Willems (2009) commenting that adverse
personality traits may be evoked in the case of retail personalities due to the many
ambient, design and social components of the shopping environment. It is proposed
(Southgate, 1994) that projecting the right personality is one of the most important
contributions to building consumer loyalty. The “relationship” element “defines the
mode of conduct that most identifies the brand” (Kapferer, 2008, p. 185) such as love,
provocation and friendliness; Randall (2000) argues that it is healthy and positive to
establish a relationship between brand and user. Power et al. (2008) confirm the central
role that trust plays in building customer relationships and suggest the mediating role
of trust is critical to the development of favourable outcomes where negative brand
associations exist. The adverse viewpoints presented by Mediaweek (2007) and Clarke
(2008) when referring to Tesco implies that trust in the brand and impact on the
consumer relationship is important particularly when the size of the organisation may
make the brand appear impersonal and contribute to brand image problems. “Culture”
can be regarded as the values that feed the brand’s inspiration, with corporate culture
JFMM
15,3
310
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
frequently reducing the freedom experienced by the brand (Kapferer, 2008).
de Chernatony (2001) states that, for corporate brands in particular, an
understanding of organisational culture provides a strong indication of the brand
values; attention needs to be given to the alignment between the two to prevent
inconsistent behaviour and detrimental perceptions of the brand on behalf of
stakeholders (Harris and de Chernatony, 2001). The customer “reflection” facet should
not be confused with the target, but refers to the perceived client type and the image of
the buyer or user that the brand seems to be addressing (Kapferer, 2008). Finally,
“self-image” can be regarded as the internal version of the reflective element of the
brand identity prism (Randall, 2000) and refers to how the target inwardly pictures
themselves (Kapferer, 2008). Arnould et al. (2004) argue that consumers evaluate
brands partly in terms of how products might enhance their self-image with Ellwood
(2000) stating that consumers create and maintain their self-image through the
consumption of brands. Solomon et al. (2010) assert that consumers demonstrate
consistency between their values and the things that they buy.
Keller (2008) states that all facets are interrelated and that brand identity
cohesiveness will depend on a consistency between the various brand elements.
Ghodeswar (2008) comments that a strong brand identity can help to build trust
between the brand and consumer, and can thus be a source of differentiation.
2.3 Perceptions
Perceptions are important since they affect behaviour and these, in turn are influenced
by the consumers’ cognition of the corporation (Balmer, 2008). Given Kapferer’s (2008)
assertion that consumers do not make a complete distinction between the product and
corporate brand, for the purposes of this research, the Tesco brand covers both the
corporate image and the actual brand encountered by the consumer. Schiffman et al.
(2008) define perception as an analytical process whereby the individual selects,
organises and interprets stimuli to create a meaningful and coherent picture of the
world; Neal et al. (2006) regard this as a critical activity that links individual consumers
to group, situation and marketer influences. Evans et al. (2009) argue that, due to the
quantity of marketing stimuli presented, coping mechanisms need to be implemented
by individual consumers; these are identified as selective exposure, selective attention
and selective distortion (Babin and Harris, 2009). These perceptual filters are based on
our previous experiences and influence what we decide to process (Solomon, 2009),
with Evans et al. (2009) asserting that consumers will be open to what they are
interested in (perceptual vigilance) and will avoid messages that are not congruent
with their viewof the world (perceptual defence). It is argued, therefore, that messages
which are in tune with an individual’s beliefs stand a much better chance of gaining
attention and being favourably perceived than those which are not aligned (Evans et al.,
2009) and that information which does not concur with consumers’ prior beliefs will be
distorted (de Chernatony and McDonald, 2003).
3. Methodology
Previous research investigating young consumers’ perceptions of value brand clothing
and attitudes towards the value brand concept was based around wearer trials and
focus group discussions (Ross and Harradine, 2010). Although wearer trials are often
utilised to determine product performance (Proctor, 2003) they were used in this
Fashion value
brands
311
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
situation to give the participants actual experience of untried products and the
opportunity for formalising attitudes towards them. To further develop the research
for this study, the data generated from these methods was supplemented by a survey
of a much broader sample of the age group, allowing young people’s perceptions
related to branding to be mapped against Kapferer’s (2008) brand identity model.
A non-probability sample of 150 students was selected on the basis that they are
attractive to organisations as potential consumers (Mintel Oxygen, 2009). As business
students they had been exposed to marketing and branding issues making a judgment
sample appropriate for this study (Zikmund and Babin, 2010). As young consumers,
they will have a long purchasing life and, when mature, will search for certainties they
had when they were young (Mintel Oxygen, 2009). This reinforces the need for clear
brand identities to be developed, in order to be perceived by the young consumer as a
coherent, and appealing brand image. This is particularly important given that
students represent future high-income earners and spenders (Mintel Oxygen, 2009).
The authors decided that as the research was largely exploratory, the choice of a
non-probability judgement sample was appropriate. It was considered that accessing
the subject specific knowledge held by the selected respondents would be
advantageous as it could assist in clarifying specific areas for investigation in
subsequent research. The use of non-probability samples, is noted by Jackson and
Shaw (2009), as particularly relevant to fashion marketing research.
The early development of fashion brand awareness, and knowledge, in young
children, has been noted by Chan (2006), and this segment is identified by Mulyanegara
and Tsarenko (2009) as highly motivated in expressing their personality, through
fashion products. By the time such children are in higher education they will be
experienced consumers with a greater understanding of brand image. Wright (2006)
argues that consumer behaviour in the formative years affects our actions as
independent consumers. Students are, therefore, a useful sample to investigate
consumer behaviour related to fashion products (Hayes et al., 2006).
Before completing the questionnaire, respondents were asked about their awareness
of the Tesco brand and any who were unfamiliar were screened out of the process.
It should be noted that the sample is comprised of young consumers and is not
confined to existing Tesco customers; this age segment is attractive to a wide range of
fashion retailer brands and, as noted in the introduction, is specifically targeted by
Tesco. The use of this sample allowed the researchers to explore how effectively the
Tesco clothing brand identity is perceived by young consumers as a segment rather
than focussing simply on those who have already demonstrated engagement with the
brand.
Prior to the survey, a detailed brand identity chart, based on the six elements of
Kapferer’s Identity Prism, was developed using publically available secondary sources
such as web sites, market reports, newspaper articles and television adverts. A
synopsis was subsequently created illustrating the key aspects of each facet (see the
following list). Multiple sources, such as these, were used by Cheng et al. (2008) on the
basis that they reflect the strategic intent of the organisation and ensure confirmability
and credibility in interpretation. Balmer and Soenen (1999) employed a similar
approach, highlighting the value of using internal documents and commercial reports
as part of their research. The survey was based around the same model and structured
on the result of the general brand identity chart. The survey focussed on the sample’s
JFMM
15,3
312
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
purchasing behaviour and their perceptions of both the Tesco corporate and clothing
brands. Respondents were offered a range of ranked brand identity statements with the
first corresponding to the Tesco brand identity chart and subsequent statements
moving towards an opposing view, as illustrated in Figure 1.
Do you consider Tesco to:
. Be very stylish/fashionable?
. Be quite stylish?
. Have little style content?
. Be not at all stylish/fashionable?
For all questions, the first response was directly derived from the brand identity chart;
the second was positive but not as favourable about the brand identity statement, with
the final two options becoming progressively more negative. These four options were
provided to ensure that respondents gave a definite rather than neutral response.
The results allowed for a comparison of the brand’s intentions with the perceptions
of the sample group; in an ideal scenario, the perceived brand image should be
Figure 1.
Tesco brand identity
Fashion value
brands
313
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
compatible with the intended brand identity. For the purposes of analysis, two
indicative visual maps were created. The first identified the level of exact matches
between the brand identity and consumer’s brand image based solely on those
selecting the first response statement. The second map identified a broader view taking
into account those selecting either of the first two positive response statements. It is
recognised that analysis based on Kapferer’s (2008) prism is usually qualitative, but
the use of quantitative data in relation to the model in this study is intended to give an
indicative visual depiction of the degree of alignment between identity and image,
rather than a statistically valid result. It should be noted that this research is not
designed to identify the reasons behind any misalignments but this could form the
basis of future qualitative research.
4. Findings and discussion
The research findings will be structured in three sections. First, a detailed brand
identity analysis based on Kapferer’s Prism (2008) and compiled from published
sources of information is presented and discussed. Second, the results from the survey
are analysed before both sections are used as the basis for creating brand identity
maps in the third element of analysis (Figures 2 and 3).
4.1 Tesco brand identity
Brand identity: physique. The recognisable name and logo are considered by Mintel
Oxygen (2008) to be Tesco’s great strength and this is reflected through its popularity
with shoppers and dominance of the market (www.mediaweek, 2007). The
development of wider and deeper product ranges (Mintel Oxygen, 2008), and
customer convenience of buying non-food from Tesco (www.tescoplc.com, 2009),
including the provision of a clearly structured fashion brand hierarchy, have made
them the world’s third largest grocer (Mintel Oxygen, 2008). Tesco is considered the
most diversified of the top four supermarkets in the UK (Wood, 2009) thereby
strengthening their position forthe future (Warner, 2009).
Figure 2.
Tesco brand identity
compared with exact
match responses from the
sample
JFMM
15,3
314
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
Brand identity: personality. The brand is seen as market leading in terms of size and
product, and a key feature is bringing fashion to a wider audience across socio-economic
groups (Mintel Oxygen, 2008). The brand’s strategy of “fashion at fantastic
prices”(Tesco plc, 2009), taking looks from the catwalk and making high fashion for
all (www.tesco.com, 2009) combined with sponsorship of London Fashion Week (London
Fashion Week, 2009; Clothing at Tesco, 2009) is intended to impart fashion credibility to
supermarket clothing. Its fashion content is described as “sophistication, stylish and the
brand of choice for savvy shoppers” (Clothing at Tesco, 2009). At the same time the
brand sees itself as down to earth and family orientated as evidenced through its TV
adverts. The brand regards itself as cheerful and upbeat, evidenced through its service
approach; “show you care, know your stuff, and share a smile” (Tesco plc, 2009). The
brand also sees itself as a resilient, assertive organisation which is “prepared to admit
when it has got something wrong and take action” (Mintel Oxygen, 2008).
Brand identity: relationship. The brand positions itself as the shopper’s friend; “the
UK’s most popular retailer cuts prices on 700 key clothing lines” (Tesco plc, 2009). As
many as 70 per cent of all UK adults shop at Tesco, finding the brand approachable as
“Tesco is the only one of the market leaders that consumers claim to use more than
they did a year ago” (Mintel Oxygen, 2008). Tesco state they are working hard to make
it a better place to shop and the close relationship appears to be built on “insight into its
customers that is regarded as second to none in the retail world” (Moneyweek, 2007).
The level of customer insight could explain the range of fashion sub-brands developed
by Tesco. This insight also aims to deliver risk-free shopping across all product types,
and the bond is further cemented by the Clubcard, which helps to identify what
customers want (Tesco plc, 2009).
Brand identity: culture. The brand’s culture is one of ‘all things to all men’; appealing
to all and excluding no one from its products and services, and it is firmly targeted at
the middle mass market . . . right across the socio-economic and age spectrum (Mintel
Oxygen, 2008). This culture is supported by two major strategies. First it considers
itself to be a major player in social responsibility with a wide range of community and
environmental initiatives (Mintel Oxygen, 2008) and has previously collaborated with
Figure 3.
Tesco brand identity
compared with the
combined positive
responses
Fashion value
brands
315
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
Katherine Hamnett on a range of organic and fair trade clothing. Second it regards
itself as having a proactive development culture. “It sets the development agenda in
many new areas, responds well to change, never loses the initiative on price or other
factors and has the patience to see out long term investment” (Mintel Oxygen, 2008). In
particular it has developed opportunities in IT such as its on-line fashion store (Finch,
2009) and has the “strongest brand image online” (Croft, 2004). Tesco has “form in
launching successful new formats and retail concepts” such as its planned F&F
flagship stand alone store (Hall, 2010b).
Brand identity: reflection. Tesco customers are seen as family shoppers at all
socio-economic levels who are discerning and fashion conscious. In supermarket
clothing terms they are seen as more up-market than other brands’ customers; they
recognise the differences in the clothing brand levels offered, particularly at higher
levels, “the premium capsule collection known as Florence & Fred Signature” (Mintel
Oxygen, 2008).
Brand identity: self-image. The self-image of the Tesco customer is that of a “savvy
consumer” who recognises value and quality related to the “more sophisticated brand
hierarchy” (Mintel Oxygen, 2008) and allows them to buy at varying levels between
F&F Signature and the Value range. The Tesco customer understands shopping at
these different levels, appreciating the value of the broad product portfolio in terms of
saving time and money (Tesco plc, 2009). The customer is confident, making positive
brand choices about their clothes rather than chasing the lowest price, reflecting the
brand’s strategy of “tapping into consumers changing needs” (Mintel Oxygen, 2008).
4.2 Tesco brand image
Overview of survey results. The screening process determined that the whole sample was
familiar with the Tesco brand with 88.7 per cent of respondents categorising themselves
as a regular or occasional customer of any Tesco product. Such familiarity is desirable
since it allows respondents to be able to evaluate and process brand associations (Hayes
et al., 2006) and potentially transfer these associations to different product types. Kapferer
(2008) notes that in modern markets, consumers do not make a complete distinction
between the product and corporate brand in that what the corporation does impacts their
evaluation of its brands, especially if they share the same name as the corporation.
A total of 87.3 per cent considered themselves to be either “highly” or “fairly”
fashion conscious and 85.3 per cent were “regular” or “frequent” purchasers of fashion
goods, which confirmed the importance of students as a sample group (Mintel Oxygen,
2009; Chan, 2006). These high response levels reflect the sample’s suitability indicating
a high level of interest and involvement with the research topic (Evans et al., 2009).
While the survey found that only 5.3 per cent regularly purchased supermarket
clothing and 45.3 per cent had some experience of purchasing at this level, 49.3 per cent
of the sample claimed never to have purchased any clothing from a supermarket. It is
worth noting that although this age group are targeted by supermarket brands, almost
half of the sample had not engaged in an actual purchase. This indicates a potential
issue for all supermarket brands, as future purchases might well be influenced by
brands purchased at an earlier age (Wright, 2006; Mintel Oxygen, 2009). The sample
indicated an unfavourable perception of the fashion content of supermarket clothing,
with 52 per cent considering them to be “basic” and only 18 per cent suggesting that
such clothes are “fairly fashionable”. Again, this highlights a potential difference
JFMM
15,3
316
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
between how supermarket brands see themselves in terms of their fashion content and
the perceptions held by this particular segment (Winterman, 2006; Smithers, 2008).
Brand image: physique. The brand was recognised as the market leader or one of the
top 2/3 in both their market position and product range (88.7 and 84 per cent
respectively), which is very positive for the brand indicating that some components of
the tangible element of brand identity are appropriately perceived. Although 67.3 per
cent agreed that Tesco clothing appealed to a quite broad/very broad market, the brand
was also viewed as having low fashion status. Only 2.7 per cent considered the brand to
be fashionable which contrasts with Tesco statements; they use terms such as “the label
of fashion” and “essential trend led” (Tesco plc, 2009), but this view is not shared by the
sample, indicating some possible problems of fashion credibility associated with the
brand. Although this segment is aware of the corporate brand physique, this awareness
does not extend across the full rangeof Tesco products. While the company and media
are confident about the fashion status of the Tesco brand, this does not appear to be
transmitted successfully to this particular customer segment.
Brand image: personality. The brand was seen as “down-to-earth” rather than
superior to other supermarkets and although the target was recognised as the “whole
family”, 21.3 per cent considered that the range was aimed at older females; in terms of
fashion content, 62 per cent felt that the brand had little or no style. Tesco has a family
orientated image, but there is a sense that the sample felt the brand was not for them in
clothing terms, seeing the main customers as family or older customers. This sense of
alienation is important in view of the investment Tesco have made in targeting this
group and when considering the development of loyalty and the potential purchasing
life of a young consumer (Ross and Harradine, 2010).
However, 88 per cent felt that the brand was assertive or confident while 90 per cent
were positive about the brand’s adaptability to change. This indicates potential for
future loyalty if a fully cohesive personality is projected, especially as this age group
are described by Mintel Oxygen (2009) as a “blank canvas” for consumer products and
services.
Brand image: relationship. Of respondents, 72.7 per cent considered that Tesco put
customers first and was the “shoppers friend” although 67.3 per cent thought that the
level of caring was the same as from any other supermarket. A total of 28 per cent felt
that they trusted Tesco more than any other supermarket with only 9.3 per cent of
respondents indicating a low or non-existent level of trust. This represents a high level
of consumer confidence with the brand. In total, 64.7 per cent felt that this trust reduced
the risk in purchasing a new product type from the brand.
Although the sample are not regular purchasers of Tesco clothing, given the level of
confidence and trust, they would appear to be open to trying new product types from
the brand. There is the opportunity for Tesco to attract this group especially, as
already indicated; they are considered a “blank canvas”.
The Clubcard plays a part in strengthening the relationship and encouraging
loyalty with the brand seeing the loyalty card as a “key driver” (Hall, 2010a). Of
respondents 67.3 per cent stated that this forms a “fairly close” or “very close” bond
with the brand. Given the existing level of trust in the brand, the effectiveness of the
loyalty scheme is likely to be further strengthened in the future as the sample
progresses from individual to family type households and has the potential to clearly
differentiate Tesco from its competitors.
Fashion value
brands
317
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
Brand image: culture. Tesco consider that environmental issues are “our biggest
challenge yet” and their web site (Tesco plc, 2009) lists a range of achievements and
aspirations related to climate change, waste reduction and recycling. However, 58.7 per
cent of the sample considered that Tesco were only as committed as their competitors
to environmental issues and a further 4.7 per cent asserted that Tesco merely complied
with minimum regulations. This might suggest that the brand’s messages about its
green credentials are not being clearly communicated or the group could be cynical
about the intentions of the brand given its size and domination. Although 59.3 per cent
viewed the brand as “highly” or “fairly” innovative, given that fashion implies fast,
dynamic change (Easey, 2009) this could indicate an area for attention by the brand.
90.7 per cent considered the brand had “advanced” or “good” use of technology in
terms of communication or delivery of services; this is likely to be an important aspect
given that the sample group are likely to be the comfortable using both technology and
the internet. E-mails and smart phone applications are extensively used by Tesco, as a
vehicle to communicate information about the fashion ranges, but rely on the consumer
actively registering with the brand. However, it indicates an attempt to utilise key
communications vehicles used particularly by this segment.
Brand image: reflection. Although the brand identity indicated a company view of a
more upmarket shopper, the perception of 50 per cent of respondents indicated that the
brand was undifferentiated from other major supermarkets, with only 11.3 per cent
agreeing that the brand was more upmarket. The perceived image of the Tesco
customer was viewed as a consumer with average income who wanted to look
up-to-date rather than fashionable.
This again reflects a degree of misalignment between identity and image and might
indicate that the targeted customer is not the same as the actual customer, who is less
concerned with being seen as fashion conscious. One explanation for this might be that
Tesco are using terms such as “fashion” to differentiate their position from that of
other supermarkets. While this might be useful for promotional purposes, different
connotations of the term “fashion” raises the opportunity for confusion and potential
misunderstandings between the brand and its customers. The brand’s emphasis on its
level of fashion content in its marketing communications could, however, run the risk
of creating a lack of clarity about their positioning and target customer.
Brand image: self-image. The Tesco customer regards themselves as being fairly
knowledgeable about price and quality issues (67.3 per cent) with 80 per cent of
respondents suggesting that the customer is aware of the difference between brand
levels. Although the difference in brand levels was recognised, respondents suggested
that they are more influenced by price when it comes to actual purchasing. This could
mean that Tesco are less successful in clearly differentiating their brand identity from
competitors. The brand identity suggests a customer who is very confident,
knowledgeable about brand levels, and appreciates saving time as well as money
whereas the customer’s overriding concern appears to be for saving money. This could,
however, be influenced by the economic situation of the sample group.
4.3 Brand identity and image maps
The results of the survey have been grouped under the six component headings of
brand identity (see Table I) to create visual identity maps (see Figures 2 and 3) to
indicate the extent to which brand identity and image are aligned.
JFMM
15,3
318
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
Kapferer (2008) states that all facets of brand identity are interrelated and that
cohesiveness relies on consistency between the various brand elements. For Tesco, the
ideal scenario would therefore be a perfect match between brand identity and image.
This would suggest that all facets of identity are well focussed on the needs of
customers and that this is communicated effectively and interpreted appropriately by
the consumer. It is recognised that while it is possible to have a gap between the two
concepts, this is not a desirable situation for the health of the brand.
When comparing Tesco’s brand identity with the most positive consumer
responses, an obvious misalignment is apparent as depicted in Map 1 (see Table I).
However, when Tesco’s brand identity is considered in Map 2 (see Figure 2), a closer
match is evident resulting perhaps in a more optimistic overview.
When the combined positive responses are considered in Map 2 (see Figure 2), the
results related to physique, personality, culture and reflection demonstrate consistency
giving an encouraging result for Tesco. The remaining elements, reflection and
relationship are now considered in more detail.
The reflection aspect of brand identity is identifiedas the weakest element in both
maps. It would appear that the perception of how the Tesco customer is perceived by
others is less than positive. This outward mirror is important as it indicates the
perceived client type and the image of the buyer that the brand seems to be addressing
(Kapferer, 2008). From Tesco’s perspective, they see the reflected customer as a family
shopper who is discerning, fashion conscious and more upmarket than other
customers. However, the survey indicated that this perception was not shared by the
sample group, with only 6 per cent of those surveyed regarding the Tesco consumer as
being fashion aware and one who actively seeks out the latest styles.
This reflection of the Tesco customer, could, however, be related to their stage in the
consumer lifecycle. Previous research undertaken (Ross and Harradine, 2010)
suggested that Tesco was a brand that younger consumers might “grow into” over
time. This is echoed by Dias (2003) who indicates that every generation will grow up
and eventually need the same things. The issues around the perception of customer
image could, however, prevent connection to the brand and act as a barrier to future
adoption by the sample group. Evans et al. (2009) assert that consumers might
demonstrate signs of perceptual defence and will thus avoid messages that are not
Sample brand image Sample brand image
Tesco brand identity
Survey Survey
Source
Published secondary
sources
Per cent of respondents
agreeing with brand
identitya
Per cent of respondents
who were positive about
brand identitya
Physique 100 23.5 70
Personality 100 31.9 69.3
Relationship 100 20.9 77.3
Culture 100 22.7 66
Reflection 100 8.7 55
Self-image 100 28.4 67
Note: aAn average score has been calculated for all the questions relevant to each of the six elements
of the brand identity model
Table I.
Tesco brand identity
compared with survey
results
Fashion value
brands
319
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
congruent with their view of the world. It could be argued, therefore, that if the sample
group feel that they cannot associate themselves with their image of the Tesco
customer, they are less likely to engage with the brand for the purchase of clothing.
When Map 2 (see Figure 2) is considered, relationship is the strongest element which
gives a sound foundation for developing lifelong loyalty from the sample group (Mintel
Oxygen, 2009) potentially developing into a high quality relationship in which
customers feel a sense of commitment and belonging (Ghodeswar, 2008). Wood and
Pierson (2006) indicate that positive associations with the retailer can lead consumers
to trial and eventual loyalty to them. Consistency, and cohesiveness, between the
majority of brand facets, supports the development of loyalty, among the sample
group. By successfully engaging younger consumers, Tesco have the opportunity to
maintain and further strengthen this relationship through the purchasing life of the
group.
A potential threat to the development of loyalty is, however, the perceived lack of
fashion content in the brand’s personality. This is particularly important given the
view of Southgate (1994) that projecting the right personality is one of the most
significant contributions to building consumer loyalty. As noted earlier, the sample felt
the brand was not for them in clothing terms and in order to compete as a fast fashion
brand, Tesco needs to convince this age group about its fashion credibility.
The lack of fashion credibility could act as a barrier to trial by the sample group. As
noted in previous research (Ross and Harradine, 2010) actual experience with products
resulted in more favourable attitudes towards the brand. However, research with the
larger sample suggests that this age group could be deterred from the trial stage by the
perceived customer reflection operating as a perceptual filter. This could prevent them
from considering the brand as part of the information search when making purchasing
decisions.
Kapferer (2008) emphasises the need for cohesiveness and interdependency between
all elements of the brand prism. In the Tesco brand analysis, the weaker reflection
element might not seem too crucial, but it is possible that this weakness exposes the
potential vulnerability of other facets.
5. Conclusions
The link between branding and competitive success has been identified (Davis, 2010;
Martenson, 2007) and the importance of alignment between brand identity and brand
image as part of successful branding explicitly documented by Kapferer (2008) who
states the overriding requirement for all facets to be interrelated and cohesive.
Ghodeswar (2008) comments that a strong brand identity can help to build trust
between the brand and consumer and can thus be a source of differentiation. Value
fashion clothing is a highly competitive market (Mintel Oxygen, 2007) and in
increasingly turbulent markets such as these, brands are ways of creating trust,
stability and differentiation (Rindell and Strandvik, 2010). To maintain their market
position, Tesco need a clear and consistent brand identity that is converted by the
consumer into an appealing brand image across all their products and services.
Young consumers are important in terms of their clothing consumption and the
length of their purchasing life (Leroux and Hawkes, 2008; Mulyanegara and Tsarenko,
2009; Ross and Harradine, 2010). In addition, they represent a large proportion of the
people in society who will be future high-income earners (Mintel Oxygen, 2009), and
JFMM
15,3
320
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
are identifiable as a segment specifically targeted by Tesco fashion ranges. This
reinforces the need for clear brand identities to be developed and perceived as a
coherent and appealing brand image in order to attract the younger market to the
Tesco clothing brand proposition.
Following a survey of 150 young consumers, two maps were created. The first (see
Figure 2) visually depicted the degree of exact match between identity and image and
the second (see Figure 3) illustrated a broader view where all the positive response
statements were taken into account. These maps identified misalignments between
Tesco’s brand identity and the way in which it was perceived. The results indicated
that only 8.7 per cent of the sample viewed the brand image in precisely the way that
the company intends dictated by the low score related to the reflection element.
However, when all positive responses were taken into account a much closer match
between identity and image was noted (55 per cent) and the reflection element was
again the lowest scoring facet, with relationship scoring the highest level of agreement.
The low reflection score indicates that the perception of the Tesco customer is less
than positive in terms of their fashion awareness when compared to the intended brand
identity. This could have implications for this age group with reference to engaging
with the brand and clothing ranges given that consumers evaluate brands partly in
terms of how products might enhance their self-image (Arnould et al., 2004) and the
symbolic benefits (Keller, 1993, 1998) they represent. The sample’s low reflection score
might create barriers at an early stage of the consumer decision making process with
selective attention screening out the potential purchase of Tesco clothing.
The relationship facet was the strongest element when all the positive responses
were considered providing a sound foundation for developing lifelong loyalty from the
sample. Although a high level of trust in the corporate Tesco brand was exhibited, this
did not appear to be transferable across the whole product range to clothing. This was
evidentin the responses related to physique, personality and reflection where there
was a consistent sense that the brand lacked fashion appeal in marked contrast to the
brand identity statements (see Figure 1).
It is important that there is cohesiveness and interdependency between all facets of
the brand prism (Kapferer, 2008). In the Tesco analysis, the weaker reflection element
potentially creates vulnerability for the brand and could well affect the future
development of the existing strong relationship with this particular customer group.
Tesco need to develop and effectively communicate the reflection element of the
brand to successfully appeal to younger consumers with their clothing brands. As
indicated by Mintel Oxygen (2009), when young consumers mature, they will often
look backwards and search for certainties they had when they were young. This would
give Tesco the opportunity to maintain and further strengthen their relationship
throughout the purchasing life of the group.
Kapferer (2008) notes that a strong corporate brand allows for greater salience of
company actions, values and missions and can act as a defence for the company
reputation. This is important for Tesco’s clothing brands which are offered to
consumers within the corporate brand environment and the research suggests that the
young consumer responds to the corporate brand identity even if the relationship to the
clothing brands is less developed. He further notes that managing the corporate brand
and its communication means managing its profile and perhaps this is an area for
Tesco to develop in relation to younger consumers.
Fashion value
brands
321
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
Owing to the exploratory nature of this research, there are some limitations to the
study. Gaps have been identified between the intended identity and perceived image
but further research would need to be undertaken to establish the reasons for the
misalignment. Although the value of the younger consumer as a life long purchaser
has been established, it is accepted that this is only one, albeit extremely important,
segment and not necessarily reflective of the entire Tesco customer base. However, as
brand management is both brand identity and market orientated, corporate brands
must tailor their profile to meet the expectations of multiple publics (Kapferer, 2008)
and it is argued that this is a critical factor in balancing identity and image. With this
in mind, future research could consider the perceptions of other segments to establish
different perspectives. Finally, the research is based on a “snapshot” in time and
additional studies, particularly longitudinal research, would provide a more detailed
context for the investigation.
References
Alsem, K.J. and Kostelijk, E. (2008), “Identity-based marketing: a new balanced marketing
paradigm”, European Journal of Marketing, Vol. 42 Nos 9/10, pp. 907-14.
Arnould, E.J., Price, L. and Zinkhan, G.M. (2004), Consumers, 2nd ed., McGraw-Hill, New York,
NY.
Attwood, K. (2007), “Cheap fashion: the trend may be over”, The Independent, 3 August.
Babin, B.J. and Harris, E.G. (2009), CB, South-Western Cengage Learning, Mason, OH.
Balmer, J.M.T. (2008), “Identity-based views of the corporation”, European Journal of Marketing,
Vol. 42 Nos 9/10, pp. 879-906.
Balmer, J.M.T. and Soenen, G. (1999), “The acid test of corporate identity management”, Journal
of Marketing Management, Vol. 15, pp. 69-92.
Beverland, M. (2004), “Uncovering ‘theories in use’: building luxury wine brand”, European
Journal of Marketing, Vol. 38 Nos 3/4, pp. 446-66.
Birstwistle, G. and Moore, C.M. (2007), “Fashion clothing: where does it all end up?”,
International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, Vol. 35 No. 3, pp. 210-16.
Boyle, C. (2009), “Consumers will remain price-sensitive after the slump is over”, The Times,
7 August.
Brengman, M. and Willems, K. (2009), “Determinants of fashion store personality: a consumer
perspective”, Journal of Product & Brand Management, Vol. 18 No. 5, pp. 346-55.
Bromley, D.B. (1993), “Brand management”, in Reizebos, R. (Ed.), Brand Management,
FT Prentice-Hall, Harlow.
Bruce, M. and Daly, L. (2006), “Buyer behaviour in fast fashion”, Journal of Fashion Marketing
and Management, Vol. 10 No. 3, pp. 329-44.
Chan, K. (2006), “Young consumers and perception of brands in Hong Kong: a qualitative study”,
Journal of Product & Brand Management, Vol. 15 No. 7, pp. 416-26.
Cheng, R., Hines, T. and Grime, I. (2008), “Desired and perceived identities of fashion retailers”,
European Journal of Marketing, Vol. 42 No. 5, pp. 682-701.
Clarke, N. (2008), “McDonald’s tops hated brands poll”, Marketing, 13 May.
Clothing at Tesco (2009), available at: www.clothingattesco.com (accessed 12 May 2009).
Croft, M. (2004), “Consumers rate Tesco as having the best image online”, Marketing Week,
9 September.
JFMM
15,3
322
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
Davis, J.A. (2010), Competitive Success: How Branding Adds Value, Wiley, Chichester.
de Chernatony, L. (2001), From Brand Vision to Brand Evaluation: Strategically Building and
Sustaining Brands, Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford.
de Chernatony, L. and McDonald, M. (2003), Creating Powerful Brands in Consumer, Service and
Industrial Markets, 3rd ed., Elsevier, Oxford.
Dias, L.P. (2003), “Generational buying motivations for fashion”, Journal of Fashion Marketing
and Management, Vol. 7 No. 1, pp. 78-86.
Duncan, T. (2002), IMC: Using Advertising & Promotion to Build Brands, McGraw-Hill, New
York, NY.
Easey, M. (2009), Fashion Marketing, 3rd ed., Wiley-Blackwell, Chichester.
Ellwood, I. (2000), The Essential Brand Book: Over 100 Techniques to Increase Brand Value,
Kogan Page, London.
Evans, M., Jamal, A. and Foxall, G. (2009), Consumer Behaviour, 2nd ed., John Wiley & Sons,
Chichester.
Finch, J. (2009), “Tesco plans own-label online clothing store”, The Guardian, 30 January.
Ghodeswar, B.M. (2008), “Building brand identity in competitive markets: a conceptual model”,
Journal of Product & Brand Management, Vol. 17 No. 1, pp. 4-12.
Hall, J. (2010a), “Tesco to launch iPhone app for Clubcard”, The Telegraph, 5 February.
Hall, J. (2010b), “Tesco to make its West End fashion debut”, The Telegraph, 9 July.
Harris, F. and de Chernatony, L. (2001), “Corporate branding and corporate brand performance”,
European Journal of Marketing, Vol. 35 Nos 3/4, pp. 441-56.
Hayes, J.B., Alford, B.L., Silver, L. and York, R.P. (2006), “Looks matter in developing
consumer-brand relationships”, Journal of Product & Brand Management, Vol. 15 No. 5,
pp. 306-15.
Hopkins, K. (2009), “Primark bucks downward trend in retail as sales rise 5 per cent”,
The Guardian, 24 February.
Jackson, T. and Shaw, D. (2009), Fashion Marketing, Palgrave-Macmillan, Basingstoke.
Jobber, D. (2010), Principles and Practices of Marketing, 6th ed., McGraw-Hill Education,
Maidenhead.
Kapferer, K. (2008), New Strategic Brand Management – Creating and Sustaining Brand Equity
Long Term, 4th ed., Kogan Page, London.
Keller, K.L. (1993), “Conceptualizing, measuring, managing customer-based brand equity”,
Journal of Marketing, Vol. 57 No. 1, pp. 1-22.
Keller, K.L. (1998), Strategic Brand Management: Building, Measuring and Managing Brand
Equity, Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, NJ.
Keller, K.L. (2008), Strategic Brand Management: Building, Measuring and Managing Brand
Equity, 3rd ed., Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, NJ.
Leroux, M. and Hawkes, S. (2008), “Young and trendy laugh in face of High Street gloom”,
The Times, 22 October.
London Fashion Week (2009), available at: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/sponsors.aspx
(accessed 16 October 2009).
Louis, D. and Lombart,C. (2010), “Impact of brand personality on three major relational
consequences (trust, attachment, and commitment to the brand)”, Journal of Product
& Brand Management, Vol. 19 No. 2, pp. 114-30.
Fashion value
brands
323
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
Martenson, R. (2007), “Corporate brand image, satisfaction and store loyalty”, International
Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, Vol. 35 No. 7, pp. 544-55.
Mediaweek (2007), 10 June, available at: www.mediaweek.co.uk/news/665254/Brand-Barometer-
Tesco milks the praise from latest-ad (accessed 7 October 2009).
Mintel Oxygen (2007), Value Clothing Retailing, Mintel International Group, London.
Mintel Oxygen (2008), Clothing Retailing, Mintel International Group, London.
Mintel Oxygen (2009), British Lifestyles 2009 – Consumer Choices in a Fear-led Economy, Mintel
International Group, London.
Moneyweek (2007), 9 May, available at: www.moneyweek.com/news-and-charts/how-tesco-
became-britains-top-supermarket.aspx (accessed 16 October 2009).
Mottram, S. (1998), “Branding the corporation”, in Hart, S. and Murphy, J. (Eds), Brands: The New
Wealth Creators, Palgrave, Basingstoke.
Mulyanegara, R.C. and Tsarenko, Y. (2009), “Predicting brand preferences: an examination of the
predictive power of personality and values in the Australian fashion market”, Journal of
Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol. 13 No. 3, pp. 358-71.
Neal, C., Quester, P. and Hawkins, D. (2006), Consumer Behaviour: Implications for Marketing
Strategy, McGraw Hill, Sydney.
Power, J., Whelan, S. and Davies, G. (2008), “The attractiveness and connectedness of ruthless
brands: the role of trust”, European Journal of Marketing, Vol. 42 Nos 5/6, pp. 586-602.
Proctor, T. (2003), Essentials of Marketing Research, 3rd ed., FT Prentice-Hall, Harlow.
Randall, G. (2000), Branding, Kogan Page, London.
Reizebos, R. (Ed.) (2003), Brand Management, FT Prentice-Hall, Harlow.
Rindell, A. and Strandvik, T. (2010), “Corporate brand evolution: corporate brand images
evolving in consumers’ everyday life”, European Business Review, Vol. 22 No. 3, pp. 276-86.
Ross, J. and Harradine, R. (2004), “I’m not wearing that! Branding and young children”, Journal of
Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol. 8 No. 1, pp. 11-26.
Ross, J. and Harradine, R. (2010), “Value brands: cheap or trendy?”, Journal of Fashion Marketing
and Management, Vol. 14 No. 3, pp. 350-66.
Schiffman, L.G., Kanuk, L.L. and Hansen, H. (2008), Consumer Behaviour, Pearson Education,
Harlow.
Smith, P.P. and Taylor, J. (2002), Marketing Communications: An Integrated Approach, 3rd ed.,
Kogan Page, London.
Smithers, R. (2008), “Fashion: ethical concerns left at home as demand for cheap clothes surges”,
The Guardian, 30 January.
Solomon, M.R. (2009), Consumer Behavior: Buying, Having and Being, 8th ed., Pearson
Education, Englewood Cliffs, NJ.
Solomon, M.R., Bamossy, G., Askegaard, S. and Hogg, M.K. (2010), Consumer Behaviour:
A European Perspective, 4th ed., FT Prentice-Hall, Harlow.
Southgate, P. (1994), Total Branding by Design, Kogan Page, London.
Steiner, R. (2009), “Cost-conscious shoppers give Primark a boost”, The Daily Mail, 24 February.
Tesco plc (2009), available at: www.tescoplc.com (accessed 12 May 2009).
Verdict (2009), UK Retail Futures 2013: Clothing and Footwear, Business Insights, London.
Warner, J. (2009), “Despite recession, Tesco juggernaut just keeps on rolling”, The Independent,
22 April.
JFMM
15,3
324
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
Winterman, D. (2006), “It’s fashion, darling”, BBC News Magazine, 25 May, available at: http://
news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/5009556.stm (accessed 17 October 2008).
Wood, L.M. and Pierson, B.J. (2006), “The brand description of Sainsbury’s and Aldi: price and
quality positioning”, International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, Vol. 34
No. 12, pp. 904-17.
Wood, Z. (2009), “Every little helps”, The Observer, 19 April.
Wright, R. (2006), Consumer Behaviour, Thomson Learning, London.
Zikmund, W.G. and Babin, B.J. (2010), Exploring Marketing Research, South-Western Cengage
Learning, Mason, OH.
About the athors
Jill Ross MBA is a Senior Lecturer in Marketing, at Teesside University, Teesside University
Business School, Middlesbrough, UK. After completing the ACFI Clothing Management
programme, she worked in the clothing industry as Manager of a CAD/CAM department for a
major High Street chain supplier, Personnel and Training Manager in a major clothing factory
and Senior Instructor in Textiles in a Government-sponsored employment-training unit. She
joined Teesside University in 1990 teaching marketing subjects with a special focus on brand
and fashion aspects. Jill Ross is the corresponding author and can be contacted at:
jill.ross@tees.ac.uk
Rod Harradine MBA is a Senior Lecturer in Marketing, Teesside University, Teesside
University Business School, Middlesbrough, UK. After completing a fashion design degree, he
worked as both a womenswear and menswear designer before becoming first a design lecturer
and subsequently a marketing lecturer at Teesside University with a special focus on brand and
fashion aspects.
Fashion value
brands
325
To purchase reprints of this article please e-mail: reprints@emeraldinsight.com
Or visit our web site for further details: www.emeraldinsight.com/reprints
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
This article has been cited by:
1. http://orcid.org/0000-0002-1587-9076 ChangShing-Wan Shing-Wan Chang swchangtw@gmail.com
FanShih-Heng Shih-Heng Fan kochiang0726@gmail.com Department of Marketing, Branding and
Tourism, Middlesex University, London, UK Department of Planning, Publicis Media, Taipei, Taiwan .
2017. Cultivating the brand-customer relationship in Facebook fan pages. International Journal of Retail
& Distribution Management 45:3, 253-270. [Abstract] [Full Text] [PDF]
2. Elisa GiacosaThe Family Business Phenomenon as a Means for a Sustainable Business in the Clothing
Luxury Business 361-385. [CrossRef]
3. Christopher Pich, Guja Armannsdottir, Louise SpryCreating and Developing Local Political Brand
Identity: A Constituency Focus 339-346. [CrossRef]
4. Laurel D. Romeo, Young-A Lee. 2016. Apparel needs and expectations model. International Journal of
Fashion Design, Technology and Education 9:3, 201-209. [CrossRef]
5. Abas Mirzaei, Elham Siuki, David Gray, Lester W Johnson. 2016. Brand associations in the higher
education sector: The difference between shared and owned associations. Journal of Brand Management
23:4, 419-438. [CrossRef]
6. References 189-208. [CrossRef]
7. C. Pich, G. Armannsdottir. 2015. Political brand image: an investigation into the operationalisation of
the external orientation of David Cameron’s Conservative brand. Journal of Marketing Communications
1-18. [CrossRef]
8. Christopher Pich, Dianne Dean. 2015. Political branding: sense of identity or identity crisis? An
investigation of the transfer potential of the brand identity prism to the UK Conservative Party. Journal
of Marketing Management 31:11-12, 1353-1378. [CrossRef]
9. Anna Watson Hertfordshire Business School, University of Hertfordshire, Hatfield, UK Natascha
Katharina Lecki Mirapodo, Berlin, Germany Mohamed Lebcir Hertfordshire Business School, University
of Hertfordshire, Hatfield, UK . 2015. Does size matter? An exploration of the role of body size on brand
image perceptions. Journal of Product & Brand Management 24:3, 252-262. [Abstract] [Full Text] [PDF]
10. Belinda Crawford Camiciottoli Department of English Studies, University of Pisa, Pisa, Italy Silvia
Ranfagni Department of Economics andManagement, University of Florence, Florence, Italy Simone
Guercini Department of Economics and Management, University of Florence, Florence, Italy . 2014.
Exploring brand associations: an innovative methodological approach. European Journal of Marketing
48:5/6, 1092-1112. [Abstract] [Full Text] [PDF]
11. José Sarto Freire Castelo, Arnaldo Fernandes Matos Coelho, José Ednilson de Oliveira Cabral. 2014.
Análise comparativa dos antecedentes e dimensões do brand equity entre marcas de fabricantes e marcas
próprias no setor de vestuário. Gestão & Produção 21:1, 19-32. [CrossRef]
12. Liz Barnes and Gaynor Lea‐GreenwoodKaren MillerSchool of Management and Marketing, University of
Southern Queensland, West St Toowoomba, Australia. 2013. Hedonic customer responses to fast fashion
and replicas. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal 17:2, 160-174.
[Abstract] [Full Text] [PDF]
13. Marina Mattera, Verónica BaenaThe Ball is in Your Court 74-87. [CrossRef]
14. Elisa GiacosaInnovation in Luxury Fashion Businesses as a Means for the Regional Development 206-222.
[CrossRef]
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)
15. Verónica BaenaGetting Brand Commitment through Internet and Mobile Sports Marketing 203-218.
[CrossRef]
16. Fabrizio Mosca, Elisa GiacosaOld and New Distribution Channels in the Luxury Sector 220-243.
[CrossRef]
D
ow
nl
oa
de
d 
by
 U
SP
 A
t 0
7:
05
 1
2 
M
ay
 2
01
7 
(P
T)