the vogue sewing book 2.pdf

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ȘT ; Pättern Y rosĮ
or v agu e pattemsyıha ve puT an endto thatapp】'" hensive
ence tbe pattern onıpw
The special com
fort and security ) u enjoy w hen using a V ogue P attern is not acci
' " '" ap P 】'' "T ' " "ng i,
denta】It is the nat
ural resuıt of extensive su
rveys and studies m ade by vogue patterns to
detem ıine? efashion
and technicalneeds of your particular figure type A t the coutw e
collections we buy 
designs with ) ou in m
ind W e cover the fashion m arket in ordep to
bring you the m ost 
m eaningful aends in both apparel and accessories In addition we
combine the latest pro
cedures w ith the expertise of fine craftsm en and translate this
knowledge through the ac
curacy of our com puter to produce the m ost techni c ally perfect
pttems available T hen
to sim plify your selection w e system atically organize all our de
signs in our catàloguc 
so that all you have to do is turn to a particular section to find an
endless am y of styles fiom w hich to choose
W e also back up all our e« orts w ith exten
siųe chedĹing and doublm edĹing to m aintain V ogue P attern s high standards
YOUViuñndsewing issom uclıeasier w hen you have the sure guidance of an expertW e take great cale to have the nıost realistic illustrations and the finest plìotography
along with detailed insuction sheets to help you every step of the w ay W e cover everydemilbut that doesn t nıean you can t branch out to individualize each item you m ake
ln fact(hats probably why you decided to sew w ith V ogue in the ń rst place V ogue pat
tem shaselim inared the \ ess w ork and m ade fashion fit and fun syn onym ous w ith
home S W e ofer you the creative w om an a source of fashionable upto date pat
tem s to m ake a wardrobe of exciting tem pting claithes
Choosing the Pattern for Y ou
B uy the com et pattern size is never a strong enough statem ent to infer all the probtems which caıı occur if you do not select the correct pattern size O f course choosing theright size elim ina tes wasted eEort and m oney B ut j ust im agine how m any m ore creationsy o u can tum outif youdon t have to spend tim e needlessly on adj us tm en ts w hich can bee 】 j m i n a t e d b y s tartingwith the proper size T o be sure you are buying the correct patternsize you shouıd also consider figure changes that m ay have taken place over the yearsH ow m aiıy women do you know who plunge directly into cutting the sam e size theyvewom for the last ħve years only to discover that those few pounds added or subtracte
d
the same weighĻ jt is very possibıe that certain body areas m ay have becom e fuller w
hile
evaluation of the silhouettes that are m ost becom ing on you rather than necessitat
e the
T here is yet a
1 e
another factor which wjjj alfect the size you should purchase B e a
ware o
f
Figūre
, 
X X -"
s 
w i th grading or sizing .
' " ' " . · . °" . " . · types T he
pattern f Standards and the pattern 
industry have established standard body
◆ e asu
r e m e n ts 
w hich are the 
basis for body m eāsurem ents in pattern sizes conıpare your
bust wa
ist hip bac
k w aist and height m easurem ents w ith those of the figure types to see
which on
e corresp°n
ds w ith your ow n body configuration T here is a w ide variety ot
frgure typ
es to choose 
from to m ake sure you w iu not have to conıprom ise T hey incıude
H alfSizes and M isses P et
ite (R efer to pages 108 to 11 1 for m ore
O . ; . . " ń . ' " . . ' " ot . . . '" exactly t' ' " m e' '"
m ents V ery s
eldom do people s m e
asurem ents A nd body contours conform to idealized
standards sin
ce tw o people w ear
ing the sanıe size m ay diūer several inches in height
alone T he stan
dards are siınply m eant to 
be a generality that you can use as a starting
point for s
ize selection and alterat
ions
Y our C orrect Size
C onıpare your bo
dy m easurem ent w
ith those for your figure type and circle those
closest to your ow n B tıy m ost patter
ns by the btłst nıearurenıent because t
his area is the
hardest to alter M easurem en ts l
isted are the actual body sizes ; true pattern d
inıensions
have above and beyond the actu al bo
dy sizes builtin livea
bility or w earing ease
A ınount of ease for m ovem ent and attr active 
{it changes w ith the fullness o
f the style of
the garm ent so be sure to choose y°ur p
attern size by listed body m easurem
ent F re
quently w om en fall betw een tw o sizes
If this applies to you and y°u 
happen to be a thhı
sm allboned type choose the sm aller o£ tw o sizes
conversely a largeboned perso
n will
usually your w aist and hip m easurem ent are t
he best guides in select
ing skirts slad£s
and shor ts unless your hips are m uch larger in prop°
rtion to your w aist In t
bat case w e
recom m end that you use the hip m easurem ent as the 
deciding factor becaus
e the w aist is
easier to adjust
If height is one oE your m ajor sew ing problem s try a 
basiç proportione
d pattern T hese
Patterns include separate pattern pieces or 
indications oĺ adjustlnents to 
be nıade for
three heights short average and tall B y tes
ting these patte
rns you can re
ađiıy see
whether you are a com bination figure p°ssibly n
eeding a short s
kirt atrd an average
jacket which is quite often a problem W hat you 
can discover fro
m these patterns ar
e
average heights F or perfect fıt and i£ m ajor chang
es are nee
ded refer to Your 
P erfect
Sewing T oolpage 12 5
)ectus
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chaırges aıe not (reepjng up onyou utï aodced Take you, bustwaist and hip m easurem entsoften to be aware of aııy possiblec \ s E ven if your weight renıains stable you' "asurementsmay shift It is thus conceivable
, i X £ "ge 
V Lp'
L x
ßlıst M ea lır
e over [u11e8t part o£ bust and
straiglıt a
cross back (1)
clı¢st M easu
re around body directly un 
der aril aın
l across top of breasts (2)
D iaphrnm M easur
e around body halĺ
w ay betw een 
bust and w aist (3)
W aist T ie string aro
und bođy at thinnest
pafl to 
establish w aistline and m easure at
; tring (4) (N otei leave string 
in place to
facilitate m easuring 
from w aist to points at
which m easurem
ents 5 through 7 and 9
10 and 16 are taken )
H igh H Ip M easure 
2 to 4 1" below w aist
over top of hip bones (5)
F ull H Ip M easure at fullest part of hips
m ark the tape position w ith p
ins on your
undergarm en t and m easure 
dow n from
w aist to pins to establish hipline usually
7 to 9 from w aist (6)
B ack ıveck to w aist M easure from prom i
nent neck bone dow n center back to w aist
m ark (7)
B aci W idth M easure from prom inent
neck bone dow n center back 4 to 6 and
m ark T hen m easure at this poin t from
arm crease to arm crease (8)
F ront ıvecJ to W airt M easure from hollow betw een neck bones to cerıter front
w aiatline (9)
B 1łlt P oint T o establish position o£ bust
point m easure from prom inent back neckbone and over shoulder to bust point andfrom bust point to center front at w aist
R ecord both m eaaurenıents (10)
Shouıder M easure from base of neck to
shoulder bone (hinge) (1 1)
A rm L m gth M easure from shoulder bone
to elbow and on to w rist bone w ith arm
slightly bent R ecord both lengths (12)
A rm C ircum ierence M easure around fuu
est part of arm genera1ıy V below aim pit
(13) and w rist at the bone (14)
N eck C im łm fere? e M easure fullest part
of neck (15)
Skirt L ength M easure from center back
w aist to desired point on leg for hem re
ferń ng to the back of the envelope and
page 32 1 for a description of the possible
lengths T his w iu help you to estim ate
any length adjustm ents necessaryon your
pattern and any chaııges fronı the reconı
m ended am ount of tabń c to purchase
Figure T ypes and Sizes
W e have described the four V ogue P attern fıgure types on the follow ing pages to guide
you in your pattern size selection O nce again w e stress that fıgure type is a m atter of
m easurem ent not age Y our pattern is your sew ing blueprint from w hich you w
ill build
your exact dim ensions for perfect tit C hoosing the correct size and figure type 
w iu
therefore m inim ize alterations and further adjustm ents and m ake sew ing easier for you
You w ill probably frnd that your m easurem ents do not corresp
ond exactly w ith those
in any specific size D o not be alarm ed ; the w om an w ho 
is lucky enough to have those
standard m easurem ents is indeed 山田 cult if not im possible to 
ħnd T he size you
choose should be the one w hose m easurem ents corresp°nd m ost c
losely to you ow n
IfIn com paring your m easurem ents to the s
ize ranges you find that you fall betw een
figure types take stock of your body structure
Stand in front of the nıirror and ponder
awhile Is your body long and slender or s
horter and m ore closely put together? T hen
refer to the introductions included w ith each figure type 
for a general description ot
the figures T hey w ill give you a clue to yo
ur pertect figure type N ow re
fer back to the
ligure types and choose the one best for you
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B ODY U £*SU REIWEN TS 
ņ 10 12 14 16 18
B U St 3 0 % 3 1 3 2 % 34 3 6 38 40 42W aist 22 23 24 2 5 % 2 7 2 9 3 1 33
:/
! 
ı
Shoulder Length 4 % 4 34 4 15 5 5 Va 5 % 5 % 5%
Back Waist Length 15 % 15 94 16 16 % 16 Vz 16 % 17 1794
Å ßach W idth 13 % 14 14 44 14 % 15 15% 16 164
:B Na £22 % 23 , į' ľ
L
SıZE BM P BM P 1 0M P 1 2M P 1 4M P
B OOT M EASU R EM EıÏ FS 
m
?
Bust 3 0 3 1% 32% 34 36 38
?
W aist 22 % 2 3 24% 26 2 7 29%
Hip 3 2 3 3 3 4 36 38 40
Bacıt W aist Length 1 4 141+ 15 1514 1 5 151+
PAT TERN M EASU REM EııTS
Shouıder Length 4% 4% 414 47j 5 5%
?
Back W idth 13% 13 7Ta 14% 1 4 15 1 5
Sleeve width 11 Ė 121+ 12% 13% 13yz 14
Sıeeve Length 20 Ė 211+ 21% 21% 22 2214
Skirt Length (From N atura \
W aistıine at Backi 2014 2 1 zly+ L I Y Z 4 ı7 4 
园
■
S
M IS S P E T IT E
T he M iss petite is a s
ize range developed tor the w om an
w ith a deve
loped w ellproportione
d and yet dim inutive
figure H er 
back w aist length is genera1ıy 1 shorter than the
M isses fıgure and her 
hip m easu rem en t has been t ken at the
7 level She stands a
bou t 5 2 or 5 3 w ithou t her shoes on
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S匹
BOD$ * E*SıIM U EIN S
Btıst
waist
呻
Back Waist Length
38 40 42 a
1
42 44 4 6 48
34 3 6 38 40 %
44 4 6 48 50
1744 1 7 1 7 1 7
rlı
P*nıiW * E*SUIE* EM S
Shoulder Length 5 % 5% 5 % 534
白浊 Width 16 % 17% 17% 18%
◆ eeve Width 15 15 Vz 16 16%
Sleeve Length 23 76 24 ļ fi 24% 24%
2 4 24% 24% 2414
H A L F S IZ E
w aist length belongs 
in this size range H er w aist and hips are
larger in propo
rtion to her bust than in the other frgure
types T he 
fullest part of her hips is 7 dow n from her w aist
She stands approxim ately 5 2 or 5
3 w ithout her shoęs on
SıZE 10yz 12% 14 % 1 5 1alfz 200 22% 240
B ODI M EA SU REM EN TS
Bust 33 3 5 37 39 4 1 43 45 47
W aist 26 28 30 32 34 36% 39 4 1%
Hip 35 37 39 41 43 45% 48 5 0
Back W aist Length 15 151+ 1 5 153+ 15TĖ 16 16% 161+
PAT TERıı M EASU R EM EııTS
Shoulder Length 4 % 43+ 47 8 5 5% 5V+ 544 5%
Back W idth 14% 14 0 14711 15V4 1514 16% 16% 17%
Sleeve W idth 13% 13% 14% 14% 15% 15% 16% 16%
Sleeve Length 22 % 221a 22% 227 a 23% 2316 23
% 23 \
W aistıine at Back 23 23V4 2 3 2314 23 Ė 24 24% 241+
W O M E N S
ńrlly devdoped than the M isses figure bu t is just as well
T ħe W om en s ń \ re is som ew hat larger longer and H ore
proportioned She stands a pproxfm ately 5 s or 5 6 tall
of her M ps has been m easured at 9 below the w aistline
thout her shoes on A ccording to the chart the fullest part
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hand corn er o
f the envelope back A lso
stated are 
bust and lip m easurem ents tor
quick r
eference
A D escriÞtite C apt
ion S izing C ategory
* r type of garm en t and total num ber of
pattern p
ieces are stated T he detailed ex
planation 
w ill describe the silhouette plus
pertinent 
details not visible in the sketch
5 . . E d for these nıeasu rem en ts In
eluded in the pattern tissue are w earing
ease and style ease as dictated by the design
æ yardage S izes are across the top G ar
U m en t type and/or version letter are
just above fabrics w idths including inter
facing lin in g u n derlin in g an d trim s
needed for eachzersion F abric w id ths have
nap indication s alongside them
or w ithout n ap W īth n ap (W ) fabrics have chosen in the correct proportion to com
layou ts w ith pattern pieces placed in the plem ent the garm ent design as featured
sam e direction W ithou t n ap (W O ) layouts
do not plan for extra yardage required by 4 0 B acjt V ieıtls T hese draw ings showdirectional fabrics ; if using these fabrics ı Ł styling andconstruction details for aı1
you w ill have to plan layouts and add to desi \ versions thatw ere not visible in the
the yardage specified for the design Fashion illustration
Inform ation Envelope B ack
T he envelope Iront w as instrum ental in your pattern selection N ow use the envelopeback to you, advantage A ll envelopes contain the com plete inform ation you w ill need
to m ake the proper selection of fabric and notions In addi tion you w ill find sizinginform ation per tinent facts about the design features and concise yardage calcula
tions presented in a logical m anner [or quick re【erence
O V ogue Pattern S enuicel T he truly in£ tem atíonal aspect of vogue patterns
Ĵ s reılected by its representative oñices in
several countries
8 Ī ' " g " i.. Biı'' ' ' 'sim portan t infornıation tells iE the pattern isnot suitable fo stipes plaids or diagonalfabrics It etates N o A llow nce M ade forM atching Stripes and p1aids w hen thesefabrics are suitable because the additional
yarđage needed varies w ith the sie o ĺ tlıefabric design
9 " '" ' " omer E dge T his m easurem ent w ill tell you the sw eep of a skirt
or the w idth of the pant leg
P inished B ach L m gths m ıd Si? L m gthsT hese lengths are used as a starting poin tfor pattern tissue length adjustm ents
4 n F abrics suggestionslisted in this areaıU are w ellknown fabric types suitablefor the design to give you a w ide choice
T he m ost im portan t quality of desirable
fabrics soft or crisp is given to help achieve
the silhouette intended by the designer
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To c o n wrt hbric l*ldMm ndJ rdı¢ıs rrom fndıes and yards to centimeters and meters compare what ís listed
łiJ ı5i y O 25 % O 35iu O 50 I iH [m m rd n J
石
飞
C *ıtting ıln ¢ T he heavy
ou ter lin e of the pattern
piece
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nıay also be 
found w ithin the pat
tern designat
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style varia
tioi
2 Se ?nlie T he lng brokeline % inside the tting
ıine (unless otherw ise specified)
and indicated by presser 
foot i
w here all seam s sho l
d be stitched
for an am ple se m aılw ance
Q B u tton s and B tłtto lıoıes
◆ T hese sym boıs give you the
length of bu ttonhole s
ize of but
ton and precise location for each
A F old L i e T his solid line
» * m arks w here the garm ent is
to be folded during con struction
R oll L in e A solid lin e show s
where the pattern piece is to be
softly creased to m ake a soft roll
ing fold
B lueprints P attern Pieces
Pattern pieces are like blueprin ts T he m aster plans of any dressm aking project they
guide you by including all the construction sym bols needed to m ake your sew ing easier
and m ore accurate Just as no contractor w ou1đ ever begin building a house w ithout
understanding the architecť s code or key you could have disastrous results unless you
know the sym bols of your craft E very one of them has been printed on your pattern for
a very SPecific and necessary purpose G et acquainted w ith them learn to recognize the
m arkings on each piece and to understand their uses T hen all you w ill have to 
do is
follow them faithfully 入射 stakes m ade before you sew because you 
didn t understand
the pattern m arkings w ill only be com p°unded as further construct
ion ensues A good
W orking know ledge of sym bols notches A nd lines w
ill allow your project to run
sm oothly quickly A nd correctly R em em ber that to know t
he m eaning ot the pattern
Pieces characteristic lines and sym bols is to be assured ot a fmely constructed garm ent
correctly executed according to V ogue P attern proceduresScanned by CamScanner
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国
■
团
团
2
ı
Scanned by CamScanner
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S ZebyJeeP P roeere H elpħıl
hin ts are given for preparing tab
ric arranging fabń c for cutti
outs and for cu tting and m arking the
pattern
2 M m kb'' sl T he m ost im
portan sym bols on the pattern
tissue are identified and explained
T hese should be especially review ed
before cutting and nıarking
42 L ayout P iece R equ* em m ts A ll
◆ pattern pieces needed for each
version of the garm ent are listed by
num ber along w ith pieces needed tor
underlining In terfacing A nd lining
A P attern P iece I den tifica tion
L isted n um erically are the nam es
of pattern pieces and the versions tor
w hich they are used
SPecial I ï ıstru ctions T hese in
V structions are concerned w ith the
cutting of specific pattern pieces fab
rics or bias pieces w hich require addi
tional layou t preparation
P la lterrn P ieces P attern pieces
U show center fronts and backs
grainlines piece nunıbers cutofE lines
and notches R ecognition of the actual
pattern piece is m ade sim pler by not
ing this section fırst
7 G 1 łideT heentcuL
ting layou ts are dhń ded in to sle
version s and then in to sizes and tabń c
w idths E ach layou t is also ınarked as
to suitability for nap U nderlining in
terfacing and lining layouts are also
gi ven in the sanıe nıanner P attem
pieces to be placed w ith the printed
side up are show n w ithout shading
w hile those that are to be placed
printed side dow n are shaded C are
fu1ıy follow the illustrations w hen you
fold your fabric If any pattern pieces
extend beyond the foıd they are to be
cut on a single thickness after all the
other pieces are cut C ircle the layout
you are using for easy reference
P attern C utting G uide
In your vogue pattern envelope you w ill find a cutting and sew ing guide along w ith the actu
al patterıı pieces w hich if
follow ed thorouglıly and consistently can answ er alm ost any quest
ion you ınight have about the general planning pinning
cutting, and construction of yoır garıııent
1 1ıe inform ation available in the cutting guide is everything in capsu
le fom ı that you w ill need to know before you begin
lo actualıy sew If tim e is spent studying the corre
ct procedure for preparing the fabric and laying out yo
ur pattern , no tears
rıeed be shed because you ve run out of fabric 
by not placing yo? patten ı pieces correctly or an equa
lly avoidable m istake
笋 芽
茅 茎く
Scanned by CamScanner
了pattern dmtifï cation 
T he pat
tern n u m ber is given along w ith
the page n um ber T o gi ve y
ou the
ben efit o f co u tu re co n stru ction in
designer patterns and com pre
hensive
directions for m ultiversion styles you
nıay ń nd several instru ction shee
ts in
the envelope P ages are num bere
d con
secutively as w ell stating the am ou n
t
you w ill find
n F abric M u stratiom K eyt T his ex
£ plain s the u se of shading and tex
ture in techn ical sketches u nderlining
is show n by crosshatching interfacing
by dots lining w ith shading lines r
ight
side of fabric by ton e W e follow tfze
sam distiīuctioT ıs thT om M u t t itim
tratiom this boote
Q H elpfu l H i?ıts Im portan t po
in ts
◆ to rem em ber on stitchingtrim
m ing and pressing are show n an
d ex
plained for your benef
it
A T itles T he con stru ction pro
ce
dures for difterent par ts of the gar
m ent and the individu al versions are
presented separately
A title in large
bold type introduces each sect
ion
U n ä erıin in g S ketch G en erany5 1 1 . . . sketch in the sew ing
\ ide is u sed to ilıu strate the tec
hnique
u sed for u nderlining garm en t pieces
E ach subsequ en t piece is w orked in the
sam e m ann er F ollow ing sketches illus
trate only one layer of fabric but it 
is
assuim ed that all pieces are u nderlin ed
æ Emıarge vieıł) Y ou w ilı d tııat
Ų details of inıportan t an di/or dim
cult con stru ction areas are enı \ d
and circled to clarify the sew iııg proce
dure involved B e sure to pay s pecial
atten tion to each enlarged view
1 orr aM rıstT w tiorn Sketches M \ sew
ı ing techniqu es are easier to tınder
stand w hen they are show n in com pne
hensive illu strations T hey are nıeaiıt
to be u sed w ith the w ritten instruc
tions since som e procedures cannot be
sketched
O Setıg D irection s C onstru c
tion of
O each garnıen t section is ex pl ain ed
individu ally as it is n eeded E very pro
cedu re is ou tlined and nu m bered con
secu tively for quick referen ce
P attern S ew ing G uide
on the reverse side o£ the cutting guide you w ill fınd a stepbystep sew
ing guide arranged by garnıen
t version s w ith
nu m bered and ou tlin ed in stru ctions for fast reading and com pre
hension T he large and precise techn ica
l sketches that
acconıpany the w ritten in struction s are easy to u nderstan
d and as in form ative as having a sam ple o
f you r garm en t in fron t
ot you A cross the top of the sheet are the fa
bric illustration key and suggestions on sti tc
hing trim m ing and press
ing w hich
T he cu tting and sew ing guides are indispen sable ingre
dien ts in achieving the perfect fıt and fın
ish to your V ogue pattern
W hether you re a nervou s beginn er or a higłıly sk
illed seam stress Follow ing the in stru ctions 
diligen cly to the com plet
ion of
you r garm en t can on
ly help to m ake the m ost profession al loo
kin g garm en t possible
Scanned by CamScanner
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Scanned by CamScanner
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Scanned by CamScanner
Scanned by CamScanner
Scanned by CamScanner
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C hecks
ın m tching he ks let the s le of the pattern be the ? cidig fctor C he k y
quare or 
lrge are usually m atched fllow ing the lam e piciples as fr even plaid
Sm · lıc che k do not req
ire m atchig unlem they w ouıd be vi ıly dist rbing in the
ıinihed garm ent if left unm atched
Stripes
Sew ing w ith stripes sho ıd definitely inllence your pattern « lection D esigns ill s
trated in stripes are especially suitable : i£ your pattern i m arked N ot Suitble for
S tripe it is because they cannot 
be m atched prope ly or w ill distract fom the design
line It w ould also be w ise to read Y ur F igure A nalysis p ges 2 1 2 3 To help you
decide w hich stripe and direction balnced or unbalanced ho izo tal or vertical w ill
be best s ited to yo r ħg e T he am ount of extra fab ic required for m atching hori
ont l or nbalanced vertical stripes w ill depend upon the siæ o£ the stripe repeat
d the num ber f pattern le gths in the C utting G uide T he principles tor w orking
w ith stipes also pply to w ide w ale corduroy and other obviousıy w ide ribbed fbrics
W hiıe the m eth ds for laying out stripes are basically the sa ııe as tor pıaids stripes
are e ieŕ to th because the design runs in only one direction Stripes should run in
the sam e direction th o ghout the garm ent O ther parts ot tlıe gam ıent cuE s w aist
b d and pockets m ust be djusted to m atch the body of tııe garm ent Stń pes on a
notched collr should m atch those on the lapel Setin sleeves should m atch at the kont
rm hole seam line at the notch B uttonholes should be aligned w ith tlıe direction of the
stripes and if the stripes are very large they should m atch the color of the stripe
Y ou ill have to discover w hich stripe is dom inant in orđer to pıan Tour layout Squint
at the fabric to see w hether the w idest stripe the striıte at the center of the design or
the stripe w ith the strongest color is dom inant Y ou m ay even find that a particular
group of stripes acting as a part of the overall desi \ becom es dom inant and is then
treated in the ıayout the sam e w ay as a single dom inant stripe D istinguish betw een bal
anced and unbalanced stripes by folding the dom inant stń pe in half long its length 1f
the stripes rnatch w hen a corner of the fabric is folded back the stripe is balanced
B A LA N C E D U N B A LA N C E D
O nce you ve becom e fam iliar w ith the principles involved in stripe layouts let the
stripes suggest creative visual effects D on t be afraid to use a bias binding po& et or
cuitor perhaps a horizontally striped yoke on a vertically striped dress
N t ttig ly t f pattern/plaid positio o ly
团团团■自如
Scanned by CamScanner
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stripe *ll also p
lce iı at bıutl
ine or hip
line place ¢ħe 
hem line at a lees 
dom inant
location if yo
do plłte the 
dom inant
swipe at thc he
m linc celler a po
rtion of
it at tıe hexnlinc in 
the m ıtr front a
nd
badŁ of tbc garm aıt 
m obtain the proper
叩 üį i iijo M aıdı the sa
ipes at cen
cer seam s nd at side sea
m s below the bust
dart and m ate sure they 
m continuous
i. N eck to hexL cspedaJly with two
piece garm ents 
su as sui
V E R T ıC A L M ĺ 出 【hc lengthw ise grain
arrolv of your pattern paral
lel to the
stripes center dıe dom inant s
u ipe at cen
ter front and back for the best looking
resul« F or a center fold sim ply told fab
ric through dom inantstripe If the center
is on a seam or opening pin two donıi
naııt suipes together and place center
seam line (uot cutting line) through the
ceııær of thc dom inant sw If the pat
tem has a straight center ħont or back
seaıų you wilı have to plan carefully to
aılow for the seaiıı auow ances and for
m atching the stripes Jf you are m aking
a twpiece garm ent m ake sure Ľhat the
dom inant stripe is at the centers of both
pieces and runs continuously Iram the
top or jacket to the skirt P lace the sleeve
so that it m atches on the front arm hole
seam 】ine at the notch
For an A line skirta chevron will form 
N t ttig ly t f pattern/ tip p iti ly
at the side seams the angle of which will depend on the fullness of the skirt N otedo nor use styles fö ' "riped fabric that state specilically not suitable for stripes as thisda$wation was nıade because you will not be able to m atch the stripes at the seam s
U nbalanced Stripe
H O R IZ O N T A L T plan for an unb ı
anced h iontal stipe pl e the dom i
nant ıtripe in the sam e m a er s f
b lanced stripe on the pre iou page B e
s re the length ise grainline arrow is pe
pendicuıar to the stripe P rede[erm ine
and m ark the hem ım gths ot all the gar 
I
m ent sections before you cut your fabric
T hen u ing W ith N p cutting layout
lay alı yo r g rm entpauem pieces i the
s m e direction U se the notche nd sym
bols to adjust the layout untiı the side
seam s m atch d the sleeve m atches the
bodie at the front ar h le se m ıi e
A lso tke care to lay the pie e so that the
st i pe design ill be ontinuous and run
ig in the sam e direction fom neck to
hem especilly ith tw o piece garm ents
such as its F or exam ple the stripe on
a jacket hem shouıd be a continyation of
= the stripe on the kit
T o have bo th sides of the garm ent [ornı
a nıirror im age the center seam m ust be straight and parallel to the grainline place
left side pattern pieces in the opposite lengthw ise direction as the right side pieces(T his treatm ent cannot be used w ith fabrics requiring a W ith N ap layout)
N ig ı f / i ii ıaıy
U ı
N ı f pattern/ i ı
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Scanned by CamScanner
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Scanned by CamScanner
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Scanned by CamScanner
Scanned by CamScanner
Scanned by CamScanner
Scanned by CamScanner
Scanned by CamScanner
Scanned by CamScanner
Scanned by CamScanner
B IAs cuT E D G
E ıR 1oo aï e joining ı 
bias M ge to a st aight edge pin and basle the
아 娼げ to伐国自poı 
tlac四 射 dı of thc b
ira andbial edle m tııe 
« rıi¢b t edge wne
n stitching be sure to aıw ays keep the bias side up in
co ı#oid p u łr W 
aï e joiniııg tw o
biu edge saetc
h dıe fabric slightly as
you ıtiı
A o \ « tisiuc 严 p so thai the ūn
tlıe ııw 歹 pı m d the ı
lucads M Uiıbe
d edge wu ınng iH ï
brtıı when the gın« n
ı is w om
F ? N C H SE A M T hiı seanı is w
ell suited to sheer fabrics It looks like a plain seam oo
thc right side and a snıÆ 
neat tuck on the w rong side It is used on suaight seam s N n
the m m łine iıı the seaııı allowance
ıim N
seam pıess S【i【ch a】omg the seam
line
encasing the raw edges (see F rench /
wnipped s for ) / /
H A N D O V E R C A S T T his [inish Is suit
able for m o t fabrics F or a seam pressed
open stitch % fom each ra edge then
tinı to % (F or firm fabrics stitching
and tim m ig m y be om itted) O ve ast
the edge by hand sig m achine stitch
ing s g ide
B O U N D E D G E F o he y b lky easily
frayed fab i especially in lined jack
et o o t en e each w edge in pıır
h ed d ble fld bias t pe P la e the
lightıy narro er edge of the tape on top
nd edge stitch
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国
Seam Finishes
S ince the Inside atory b a Im portant to I
be ßnished by the m ost suitable m ethod if th
helps the seam allo nces to ıupport the
ravellln» and contributes to the over all nea
T U R N E D U N D E R U se this m ethod for
light eight fabrics and plain ea e syn
theti It is not s it ble for fab ics w ith
b lk T n under the aw edges of the
e m ll nces press if ne essary and
titch close to the edge
SIıfU IA T E D F R E N C H SE A M T his
seanı cuı be dp after órst m aking a
plain seaın D o not press i【 open Instead
turn both of the seam allowances tow ard
each otlıer % ard W N oir edgestitclı
the folded edgts tqgethcr
F R EN C H W H IP P E D SE A M O R D O U
B L E ST IT C H E D SE A M F or lace a】ıd
emememem bbbbroiiiiddddereded fabbbbrrrriiiici or curvcurvcurvcurved seam sseam sseam sseam s on
sheer tabria stitch a plain seam then
stitch agaiıı % away in the seam allow
anæTrim to % Irom this stitching and
carefullY overcast the raw edges by ha】ıd
or with a ūne zigzag stitd]
ı ı ı ı 1111
S E L F B O U N D S E A M T rim one seam al
low ance f a plain seam to % or %
depending on your fabric T rn the edge
of the other seam allow ance under and
slipstitch or m achine stitch over the seanı
encasi ng the trim m ed seam aılow aııce
P IN K E D : If you are w orking w ith a
firm ly w oven fabric w hich does not ravel
pink the edges w ith pinking or scalloping
shears F or an even m ore secure ńnish
you m ay w ish to stitdr % from each edge
before you begin to pink
203
◆
团团曲
Scanned by CamScanner
M A C II ï N E Z IG M G F r fabric\ w hih
l nd t ra el c ily\ u c a zig ag lild \ to
ıcinlr c ca ıı raw c gc Iilic a ııaılcr
stitclr for ligï tw ciglıt fbï ics nd a ıatx ı
ıtitclı for lıca y bulky fabrics ï m tc ting
lor ilic best m ulls
H O N G K O N G F ıN IS LŁ F oı a co uttırc louclı scc page 36 7
fpecial S eam s
T O P S T ï T C U E D S E A M P n ss a plain
scanı ıo o ï ï c dc a indicated on thc pat
lcm Tłlslit« h tJıc desired distiınce from
tlıc scarn on tlıe riglıt side of thc fa brie
through all tlıickncs*cs S ce S lit c}ıery
page 3 79 For fur tJıcr instructions
D O U H I E T O P S T JT C H E D S E A M
Firnt press a plain h ani oln n ïipstitch
tlłc dcaitcd distance frorn ca clr side of the
lcaJn orı iIıc riglıt side of thc fa brie B e
sure your *【ilches go tïırougl, botlı thick
ncs&c$ ot the ĺ abric
H IU ) S E A M T urn in tl}e edges of the
nrï c n ction to be lapped along thcıcanılinc and press W orking from the
riglıt aidc pin thc fokJcd edge over therenıaining section wi[Jl tlrc told along the
all tlrickncļ sca
acam linc Stitch cJose Io the fold througl,
固 デ
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T U C K E D S E A M F ollow tl]c directionıfor a Lalıınu scam and slip baste the foldin place Jb form tire tuck atitclr tJıc doıir« l Uclłtlı from tire fold tlirougl, allthicktıcaacı ılitcïli 彆 H o cJoacr tlłan ı4
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T he Essential eam
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F L A T F E L ı S E A M O R F E L L E D S E A M
getıcr 
lor an in ide fell) stitclı a plain seam
scam aılow ance to % H rn under the
e ıge ot the othe cam allow ance % and
place over t
he na ow seam aı1ow ance F or
non bulky fabrics m acline stitch close to
the folded edge : for bulky reversible fab
rics slip titch the fold in place
W E L T S E A M S titch a plain seam and
press it tow ard one side T im the low er
seam llow an ce to % T hen stitch
through only the upper seam allow ance
and garm en t close to the trim m ed edge
encasing the low er seam allow ance
D O U B L E W E L T S E A M W hen com
pleted this seam gives m uch the sanıe
appearan ce as a F latfell Seanı F irst con
stru ct a W eıt S eam as directed above
T hen topstitch dose to the sea on the
right side of the fabric as show rı
S L O T S E A M M achine or hand baste a
plain seam press open C ut a strip of fab
ric as long as the seanı and sıightly w ider
than both se m allow ances F rom the right
side topstitch the sanıe distance on each
side of the seam R em ove basting threads
P IP E D S E A M B aste pipi ng to the right
side of one of the fabric sections along
the seam line place the second section
over the piping right sides together and
baste : then stitch on the seam line through
all thicknesses
C O R D E D S E A M E ncase the cording in a
bias strip using a cording or a zipper foot
A ttach the cording and baste the fabric
sections together like the P iped Seam
S titch along the seam line through all
thicknesses ıısing a cording or zipper foot
Scanned by CamScanner
層 ■
M arking
T iatr the dart m artiqgs to your fabriq the m ost suitable m etlıod You ınayıxx notiir until the dart is folded that the subtle styliııg of nıany design s require con
a w or oonm cıım sas opposed to straight U se your tracing w heel or tails chaR
【o ı sbort hm im ıtal ıim s indicating the bold s}m bols for m at \ sides as w ell as? cnd of tbe m aJs hal the darts on the leh and right sides of tlıe gam ıem
e h athEr itı length and plaoenıcnt
S titc hing
B gi ig ll d t t th id b
d t p t thig t th p it d L
ï f i Y ı t t th tith
(ı2 ı5 tith p i h) h ıd b di
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p i t h ld fll th p i ipi
S th li t ti t h e y l ly t b
th t th y ly thig f tı d
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p ti l ly t tl p i Ļ h ıd b
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it to tıe d f th B ktithig
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P U C b the p i ıi [ sti
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S TM ¢I T 0 0ııC A$E C O ıRV E X
D ań Slash w ith meats or G athers
R i f e the p it ith u m M ne stitei j t id tı ıie d ı h
to thi titd ig ıtk pl ts g th s W nory d b t t the
li e of the F o b a e m t ł i thi p ti ı titd ith g a
pl ted id f ing th łi c Y t p ııy t ó p i t d
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Scanned by CamScanner
Scanned by CamScanner
Scanned by CamScanner
Scanned by CamScanner
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i S ci the sEA R A a a * inr * g
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ıħe h i
S ĹITR R IX G W l I H \ S E L T # A C D IG ıe
q s a plain seaaı that is pn w M
S ti about % to % hom eiılw r of the
w am ıin ? to ĺ orm a W D rzır h e oıg
W or button M J p t ıead tow
the czsing betw m ? M æ h row
o( M tthing A nd then adjust ?om * Ĥ qg
to the de3ired ħ ı n K not the M
rhen stiuh over lı in a xanı or e [ «
tlm ı w ith a narrow pin r A
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bobbin by h
nd s? elching 
: : , £ ' . nd \ť ilıding :' ' " y until the . x ř m
fullT hen ?t y
our m achine 
lor a long stitch (about 7 stitches per inch) and 
on the
location of the 
shirring ith t
hread rracing or taiıor s chalk clearly visible on the rih
side of your fabr
ic N ow stitch from 
the
right side
hoıding the fabr
ic laut as
you stitc
h C onrinue to scr
etch the
elasticized fabric in 
each of the pn oed
ing rows as ) ou 
self so [hat the shirring
\*ill be evenly distribut
ed \bu m ay use
the previously st
itched row as a guide
along with your m ar
kings to keep the
lines straight B e sure to 
knot all the
lin ead ends and in addit
ion stirch
over the knots in a seaın or em zse 
them
in a nam ) w pin tu & A s sholm ear
lier
R uffles
\ \ ether ıhey aie of eyeler o \ ndy or selffabric gathered or circular ruffles always
lend a fenıinine touch L et them tram e your face border your hem or beconıe the perkct
ending to a gT aceful sleeve T he eiťect can be soft or perL the m ood sophisticated ele
ganoe or JiuJrı freshness H owever you choose to use the rufne Iet your fabric and
Jour m ood inspire this softer m ore rom antic look in fashion
If yotı do łıo1 have a pattern piece for your rufHe or if you w ant to estim ate its fullnessrem em ber that you will need a fabric strip three tim es the length of the edge to which it
will bc joinetl for a very full rume a fabric strip [1Ą ice ihe finished edge length for m ini
m unı fullness W ide ruM es should have m ore fullness than narrow ones to keep them
from looking skimpy T he sheerer your fabric is the fuller the n ıffle should be Yolı
shoııld reaıize inward corners w ill require less ftıllness and outw ard corners m oıe ftıll
ness tlıan the n st of tJrc ruM e A lways keep in m ind U re proportions of tlıe ruM e an
d the
garment so that tıeithcr ovcrwhelm s the otherFor gatlıcring a rume it is l4 isc to use a strong bobbin tlıread stıch ns nylon or 
silk
T hese slide throtıgl, ttıe fabric easily for even distribution I\ıld have less tendency 
[o
break utıder teiısion A lways niake a dotıble row of stitchingm nc on tlıe scnnı
line aııtl
other Įl away in tlıt seam allowance T he two row s w ill lıclp to distr ibute the fu
ll 
ness evenly and will protect each other should oı1e break during the I uM ing P
ı or i
wıien you lı*ve nttnclıed ilie r uM e rełnove any satltcring stitclıes tı\at ınight 
show
A ll K inds of R uffles
C IR C U L A R R U F F I E : A circuıar rume
can be adđc l to any edge cufls V neckline
rounded neckline w i rc r you w ish It i
cut hom several circles w hih are first slashed
and then joined ı g the straiglt grainT his m ethođ produces a m axim um am ount
of fullness E xert great cautin w he laying
O ut pinning nd cutting the r M e sections
You w ill lind that exact locatin nd m ain te
nance of the gainline i m ost im portant if
the circular ruM e is to d pe correctly
T he edge of thi partic lar r M e m ay be
faced w ith selfabric or it m ay have a nar
row hem m ed edge Y u m ay staystitch each
ruĦe section % from the inner se m line in
the seam allow ance beFore joining
Should a narrow hem be the requied fın
ish Join circles and com plete hem before
basting the rume to its proper edge If your
ruM e has a łacing oE corresponding circles
stitch the seanıed facing and ruĦe sections
together along the outer edges T rim seanı
allóvance to % T rn the ruM e and press
B aste the raw edgeı of the ruM e and [adns
together for handling ease
If you are applying ruM es to a nedcline or
any other cıırved edge lir t stay the seaiııline
so that its shape vill not be distorted by the
w eight of the rnfııe W hether the n ıÆe is cut
single or is faced The inner circle should be
staptitclıed anđ then clipped w here necces
sary as yoti pin the n tM e to the garm eirt in
O rd to tit srıroothly on the seam line A s a
rule deep c1ıľ \ ws req\ıire a clip nt nlnıost
every % up [o [he line of slaystitching shai
low curves w illof co\\rse require (ew er cli
ıf the rnM c still đoes not lie flat D o tıot cıłt
thro\wh tltc staystitchi彆 ıncrely dip ınoıĘ
fıw uently T hc\\ baste tııe ruM e in place
Finisl\ the tnM e application w i? a Shapeđ
F acing ns ttitw tett oı\ łıw 235
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?16
回函画じ ー 哩鲻
r
pin thene to theg ent nıatching seam lines A djust the gathers until ihey
are em ly disłributed ard baste iıı pla«E T o m ake m achiıe sti tching and turning easier
p tbe basted seaJıı allo» m ces aaĻ holding the tip of your ? on parallel to the seam
ııot on ? Finish the application ıritlı a B ias F acing as directed on page 2 17
R U W E ţ VIT H A H E A D IN G A rufne w ith a heading som etim es called a double
?
ne is n ĦĦ ï on bo[h sides of the gathers It does not need to be linished w ith a facingand can easily be applied A variation of the straight ruM e it ís cut in the sam e m annerC ut a strip the desired length and width including extra w idth for a hem on both edgesM ark the gathering line with thread tracing and m ake a narrow hem on both raw edgesStitch two lines of long m achine sti tches each 14 from the gathering lineIfth' "d , ofth, r , are to bejoined Join them w ith . : eam trim and overcast; ' " '" h"ginglr" ńnishwitha naıT ow hem T o apply the double rume
ot thegarmen' " aste A dju -ng ; X = X X Ľ =
Å R ipple of T em iniY Ļiţy
T he stuff of rom ance lace edged w hite uĦles are sure to m elt the
hardest m asculine heart T ry them in surprising textures
U se their softness in contrast w ith the strict ess of tailoring
and give them cha acter w ith a strongw illed fabric crisp perky
gingham or soft sensuous cre pe
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景
h fabric t t t y it « yl ( i y bı w ) y t q i i te
y r fbri g m q i t iı ig t ï iıe ( ill m y lo ly ory lirm ls l y ı ıky fb ic and it u) k t th t il ig ti
For a M ore P erfect C ollar
T here c som e pr ĺc« io al t ik w c ant to highıiglt h w th y tib te nı ch 1 the ¢inil d p l t if c n itentıy applid to e ery c lı d A ı y tit hthe oll cti l R eĮ hc direction lly stithig ith the coll gr i st t tithingat thc ce te li t Tlen stit l t w l one c d R [ t f th th h lĺ ıppigtithes į A t co n r e ]5 2 0 stitches per ich d o e stitch c oss the poit henil p i t is e y h p
T h i p ta ce t t i m ig t d ce b ık c n t be t d e gh T his t hiq e i m ost ften e l ked d c n be the si Rl tib ting fcto to n nau aoti ll T im th se m gr ding the ones t be en l ed so tħ t the seam u e tthe pp oll is lft the w id t T i the o ers dig lly as l ly as possible itıout c tti g i to your tithing to ensure tl t th co ner seam w ll ite once the colari t d s [ r E lo ed S s p ge 2 0 0 Y sho ld not cim ra lly fb ics cl eth n % from th se lie N tch or clip curves 5o th t the seam J1 ances w illlie H tith t p lls or bum ps hen the ollar is turned
 Tinere is r essional wa to turn a d press a c lar w [tlT and accu tely. re-p e the oll bei e y turn it t the ight ide nd yo ill ot nly obtain a m orefinished ppeara ce but elim inate p oblem ith shie and handlig E th fabń con the ight side as w ell P ress the collar seam ll ances open over a poi t p esser or atailor board T hen press the seam allow ances tow ard the unde oll ide H oldig theseam allow an es together at one o ner tum the couar com er by pulling the uppercollr over you hand R epeat for the other corner I£ ne es ary use a needle or pin fromthe right side to pull the corners to a point ıveuer use the point ot a scissors to poke
corners out because you can easily poke hole in your fabric
P ress the outer edge using a press cloth C reflly im or the pper collr edge hy ro1ıing the outer seam just slightly to the underside of the collar T hisensures that the seam
w ill not be isible at the edge of the com pleted collar F or thick or resilient [abń cs B auen
and sm ooth the outer edge w ith a pounding block
W hen you attach the collar take special care to align the m arkings ot the collar w ith
those on the garm ent at the shoulders fron t and back T o help ensure a per[ectly Spıı
m etrical collar stitch the neck edge directionauy also
B uttonhole placem ent and the neck seanı of the collar are interrelated A lthough
applying inter[acing and bound buttonholes to a nat section of your garm ent m ay seem
speedier do not com plete this operation until you have fitted your garm ent w ith its col
lar I ĺ the neck seam s need to be adj usted re space buttonhole placem ents accordingly
L et us entice you to attem pt all kinds of collars w ithout fear W e have attem pted to
sim plify the diHiculties oĺ the collar constr uction by including sim ple but detailed
instructions for the traditionaltypes o ĺ collais on the follow ing pages
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F irst ırim the in[erfcing and cztchstitch it along the sem lines to the
T ıı oe ) olu un m ge- er '" ving th' " C kT riı grade ard notch the seam s (n T hen turn and pness the collar fa vo riııg e łpeııdge seam of the section that is [o be your upper couar outer
E ren collars with \ trylitderoll need som e help inom you if they are to be
on 【ħe garm en し W ī【h the upper collar on top w ork yotu collar in to the shaĚ
p trem en \ rJoR R oll the neck edge as show n ; then pin along the roll and jmtboï e the neck seam T o m ake attaching the collar easier baste the neck edges as
baste 【ıie sections tqgerher at the center fron t n eclĹlíne
cher iıl [ along the seam line of the uııdercollar If your collar is nıade in two
UahoıepmL lhı attachingtour interincing to thegarm ent and m aking t h e» y It W a zipper You m a 歹 i it now or after attaching ) n ur collar 
W ith th i t f d ti t th ll t t th g t pi th ıl i plthig kigs d b t (3) T h pp ıl ilı b bbl ligh tly B t th t i ith ld b i e y h p d th u y h d
IE y fi ili9 ti lı ith h p d f ig p p th f i g d f ihth t h d dg P i b t th f ig t th k dg th ll \ i thki\ d stith T im g d d lip th T th f ig t th i id d
p U d tith the [ d g t th kli e ll e (4)
F or ipper clo i& turn unde lıe ends oE the facing to le th ippe ĺ ter it h sbeen turned to the in ide A ndıo th f ing and tsten the closing w itı lm ok and eyeF o bt[to h l l ig tum tlıe fa ig to the iside A ndror the Eadng A nd co pıete
tlıe b ck ot th b uonh les
T here are ther m eans f f ihing the couar d garm ent seam \bu can al use a
standa ı bis fcig pplication (£ound on p g 2 3 7) hen you islı to reduce bulk in
a heavy fabric O r f one piece collw ) nu m ny titch the underco1ıar to the garm ent
eck edge keeping the ppe colla tree to be turned in and slipstitch over the seam
R olled C ollar
A ny m olded colla i[h curved or angled corners and a pronoum xd roıı around the
neck is considered a rolıed couar ıt is usuaı1y cut w ith a tw o piece bias undercoııar and
a slightl l\ r onķ piece upper collar cut on crossw ise grain T he center back sem ubrings the collar close to the nedl Giving eccellent conun\ and ħt T he standaw ay ver
sion of the roued collar is cut in one piecr on bias grain and [oıded at the outer a lgeC aretul ıuoldi 彆 and handling ot the roll also shape the co1ıar
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n ◆ the collar sits close [o t
he back of the neck rolls sm oothly covers the back neck
seam and falh s}m m etricatly
W nen you are satisóed w ith [he couar N ıark the roll line
and om ısfe adjustm ent lines before rem oving it fom the e n t (2) M ake buttonholes
B aste the unden ollar [o the gam ıen t clipping the garm ent neck edge ; stitch betw een
the m arıings ( prepare the facing and sta) stitch the neck edge B aste the upper collar
[o the fcing clipping the facing S titch together betw een m arkings stitching from the
garm ent side [o elim inate bubbles t
hat som etim es occur w hen the collar m eets the lapel
join tħe facing [o the garm ent S tart tľ here it ıneets the collar reinforce the corner and
continue around the facing T rim grade A nd clip the seam s (4)
50
C ollar w ith Stand
M y m an tail d shits h e coıı w ith t nds S u h u h p ti lly u
it tu do at the t p t the st d d e ıy l ys h n t clo e
prep e the ll tle sam e as you
w o ld {o a Shaped C ouar p ge 2 4 6
F o tJ e b d t im the hıte tciıg
se m llow n es nd cathstitch the
i t f ig to one b nd section long
the se liT
P İn the i te faced b d to the m
dercoll d tłıe r m ihıg b d to
the pper collr ight sides together
d b te S tit h the ends nd uppe
edge to ithin 5 of the ne & edges
T i g de clip nd notch the seam
allow nces (I) T hen tum the band
a d p ess T he collar is now encased
in tlıe band
C om plete the g m ent Eront open
ig interfacing w here r q Stay
stitch the garm ent neck edge P in or
baste the intertaced ba d to the gar
m ent neck edge clipping the gam ıent
as necessary C heck buttonhole place
m ent of the band nd iront opening
Stitch trirıı A nd grade seam s ıeaving
the garm ent seanı allow ance w idest
(2) P ress tbe seam tow ard the band
O n the rem aining tree edge oE the
band trim and tum the seam allow
ance under and baste close to the told
Slipstitch the folded edge over the
sea1ıı (3) T opstitclı if desire(L M ake
nıachinew orked buttonholes
◆
P+ess collar and garm ent neck seam s openT irrt the facing inside and press T ry on the
garınent m check the roll of the lapeıs F a
voriņ g the outer edge of the upper collar andthe garm ent edge below the top buttonhole
P ĺ n along the roll and again above the neckıoosely blindstitch both neck seam stw ther as they fall (5) com plete the facing side of buttonholes and anchor facings
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ー
し
匱
帝
国■
团团目
'
矚
i
d e t i fig i g l iti T h it ti p dicult d y
11 t
lm b w ol p ddig W m st st ess th t it i ot edy f p ıy ti l F
d t ild i tru ti o h t i t l p ddi g p t li i g i sle or t i a
r o pie l e f to th t il i g ti
R aglan sleeve
T hi ı e i u ıiked for it co fo t ble ñ t d relatiely eas const ti Its dia
l li c n ıe d i t th seam f p t f kli e It ca be cut on
the t ight r bi g i ith ne or tw pice co t ctio T h sh lde curve is
p t t the lee e h p d i cre ted by a d t a se m o gathers
F i t tit h the d t or ho lde seam d the l e seam P the seam open P in
d b t the slee e into the ar h le M athi g nothes sy bol nd u derarm seam s
T y on th g ent
T he curve f the ď t or seam h ld conform to your ow n sho lde nd u pper arm
sh pe ith the h p t part of the curve neither abo e nor belw the poin t of yo r
ho lder T t it standig i a norm al position w ith your arm s dow n T hen s ing yo r
arm s M king sure there is eno gh room for com fortable m o em en t A djust it necessary 
referring to the hints in the adjustm ent section
S titch Then titch ag in V4 aw ay in the underarm seara allow ance betw een the notches
C lip at ends of [he second row of stithing trim close to this stitching and overcast or zig
zag the edge P ress the seam open above the clips
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baste and press open the rem ainder of the seam clipping at the hem line O rı the inside
the hem ıíne baste T rim [he zipper tape aw ay below the hem line to e]jm ina[e bulkon
tJte outside priciĽscitch the zipper in pıace along the sides and across the upper endT urn and pin the liem and baste close to the foJd turn ing in the ends to clear the
L A P P E D C L O S IN G W IT H R O L L E D H E M G enerally u sed ith b ttoned cuÆ this
closig allo s for c « openinıg w ithout the ne essity of ki g a sleeve placket R ein
force the area to be hem m ed using sm all stitches lo g the se m li e thro gh the m ark
ings; clip to the m arkings T rim the seam allow ance betw een the clips to % trim any
underlining up to the titching T rn raw edge along stitching to form a rolled hem an d
elipstitch W hiptitch the ends Stitch nderarm seam add gathers and apply cu [f
C O N T IN U O U S L A P P E D P L A C K E T A n extrem ely durable and sim ple opening folsleeves and for other areas oE the garm ent as w ellis the continuous lapped placket F othe construction techniques reter to pages 30 2 and 30 3
sL A S H E D O P E N IN G F lı p ig r ig
L 2 %
iï t ip t ıE lb i tı l gtï t Į l p
ig pl
i l I i ih [l dg Lh id i 
l [ \ţ+ T Ti
th r jg itl tl tit ı l 【 th
ig g
tit l R ight iu t # th r e t it th
l h m k 4l Ĥig itl th g t l bot S tith l g th
tithig li ig lı tit l d t k o e 
tit h
c th p it Sl h c[ lıy to the p i t ith t 
t
tig th gh th tit lig T iım h [ ig 
i id d
p T hi fiih y be plted 
ith bidi g n
h T h f i g ho ld b blid it he [ th d
liig o th g e t lte th ĥ ih i o pit
d
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H 0 0 J A N D E Y E S O R S N A P S Slip Łhe bu
the end ba k at the cen ter fron t m arking and
t r f nts a d m rk the position for tlıe fast
eyes or sıaps ecureıy to belt placing tlıenı
just f enough inom the e d so they do not
show (5) S naps w ill do veiT nicely for the
m any loo e belt styles hooks and nat eyes
are m ore itabıe for closely fitting behs
w hich are subject to grea ter strain Y ou m ay
to tJom bine both fasnenings on the sam e
belL Secure the belt ırfth hooks and eyes
m e using snapi to hold the loose end
Som e V ariations on the T hem e
C aiT iers
belt p iti y r g m
t M k pı t 
l t d ir d i t l d 
b eJ E y dding b lt 
d y pattern d t i
l d ki g ó t t b
ıih ı
t m k tl idth f th b lt f y
r a ri
S T h d C 1 es nd F t iıg p ge 2 9 9 nd 30 0
C asings
casig ıid ften go nnoticed e s
ig ffiant i tlı t they e
ble fb ic to be
gg ı i t pl ith l tic o p ued into g a
ceħ ı fıds ith d a su ing M ost
i po t t Tley p id fo t hiJe dapthıg t t
he b dy shape O e e sential prin
dpı t b e be ed i tlat casig m ust al ys 
be w ide enough to au the elastic
r d tig t be p lled ıııfortably Itl ld be q l in w idt
h to the elastic or draw
st ig ı1 ig ı t % lor tlei thiesses pl W {or seam a1İow an oes ıt should
be e ł l i le gth to the are To hich it is t be applied pı s ı
llastic
U sing elastic in a casing ill ensure rcguıń ty in ħt U nlike the draw string tie an
elastic puu is n t dj t ble It iu breathe aııd nıove w ith you but w iu not chaiıge
from the speciĥ m easurem ent you give IL E lastic is used m ost conınıonly in sıeeves aııd
w aistliıes T he openig [or its insertion is iııside the \ ı ı ł \
garnıent T he length ot el stic depe ds upon its \ \ ıl 11 11
stretchability and should be slightly less th n the ııı s L
urem ent of the body at the casing posi tion plus W [or
lapping U suauy the narrow er the eıastic The shorter
it w iu have to be P ull elastic through casing ith a
i n or a safety pin being careful not to tw ist it L ap
the ends % a】ıd stitch sec ırely (1)
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T be eıaıtic ıho o ld ha ve
ua» ioi ıo www t ? oop
i= » ben ? i r ca¢æ
? opeg at ? ed¢ of tl cw
i= ıımdg ? ti zı you
冒妇南 办 For 主口 opeııi芎 a之门爿바
däe ııip iırh tl] opening
の锄园 図冒然ん了 《X 划羽イ歹やり
D *aw string
A C = irg i ioın eđ by an exıtm ion of t h e r f 】ıas beeıı óołded ıo theiidp ¢hm * g · and i ı A lı appıied ca 面 芎 iı a separate 《ripoł株式 eie 査 目r确知 or历苾 grain ı)r ? e a 鹵 aped faciıg二飪旭 ınay ï ıse pre宁出 鸡声 bileq e ir a q= idc appıied ¢ a T rtm guınene seaııı anıw anm to % cgir
ら函んイ 뼈乒 同 治 a# 鹵e h嚇 ぽ 台 北 a 盛 期 く 置 山 e 就 医圍妇匕 to creue a błoı《oıır sr m a k ich ı M l bernd the c n ing to torm aA T H M $ŁÆ F «r aıd¢mi% m theaı ttm ı irı thehbricw ? w◆ k T m iı tdgr ļ andqh ¢o ? gpn« x ka ring tbe de*ind opæig O Į ?d¢c ııiıp m a dightıy e4gF « * be y naiT ın T »c« * đu ¢aıd ıw d ıo be ıoneu in« or gm ıy rarM w hđe « i F t】r¢= « g = iM ira* pd ı !
" t "
« e« # « fwıodhew_ 
= 3ó m ı oaıdrn* aııd¢c ııingm
2 V !
W ıT H A H E A D IN G T h l i ı hing ı ı
甚ireı u tb ii F 姥玆く 切各
서 妇 尹 Y
m t edgņ twice h d i d idıl t the be dw pł
the c ing d % autn« M k b dig
li T lb k 1o i id d h e r ı t M m
ning wonaıi s i ıĻ k ig l i đ
F or ppłid m i & i d ııe gmaaa 
d ? p n ie
th idtĥ f the he dig pım y » S a a ı \ ı 1
M k he diqg lldıi T m lb i u
h
l g bıd» ne C t ing a $ i i o
d i
T u edge d Į i d W F om ı g
M ł e ig hı W ı big dg f ing
硝 ıh r 団萨 星headin客 E d客 ti油 b aom 
d呷
dge* ¢ i g to garı 】 g d ied (
4)
A T 飞コ星巨 w A 骂了工岱 E ぐ 吐e cali匹 了hm in bo
dı s \ ı
ī ı king 】 g b lı
In T
ti ?aw«gandiasmłıńnd (5) \ \
Shaped C asing
-m e ıb ıx ı c sig l h ı lo a 
h m ı be i ı 】 dy t ıi nr i« \ir ıtm e
opm ing in ? gnunıı at the deaı Im tio
h
冒 释广Ļ Ļ ı긔ぼへ??
zipper opm ings
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T hor u r m tm 】 thing 1o consider b e ) ou m ake your 
ĥ nal el
ħ*jor
! ıf ith d \ t thc r m ıcnl thc care of the fabriq and the T oıı
W ) T 1 y 0 n m e S e b a s i C a ppli«a Į£r t biw
ı ,
0 n ı b c ł i pĦ ı d p n s s o t c r e ses before * pplitation W h e" pT i nR .脳 自私嘟凼ine pu& etķ or im pressions
0 司南 》 dppers ca tio ly ı f t h e ¢ e n ı p e n t u re is too higlorthe ıipper m y l e the ( oati 彆 which nable M ,D A 1 » ı P d e ¢ h ł i pp e r b e f a r e 1 a u n d e r i n g o rdT deaning◆ P ï ¢hu the łipĦr if it M ll be appıicd in a washable ga m ent
◆ E xtend n m u * ances of the zipper opening ? th ribbon seaın binding if
thq are ł han % wide
A hn ppin the ippcr m tbe top downa R taR m that plaids or sipes should m atdr at the zipper closing as well
P auem ot ¢he tabtic tor an invisibJe zipper m a k tiie zippe tape with linesD A dpĦr foo ( isessent) al for ı nadıine sti[dıing and if it is adjustable perm itsFor saaight titching by ıiandb , nıachine learn to use 山 e sewing guidelineA h * a y s sew both sidesof your zipper iu the sanıe direction◆ T stitch pasr the slider pull the m b up and turn the slider on its side or
For zipper types and lengths ayaiJable see notions section in B ook I pages 94 A nd95
H and A pplication
lpp« \ o lt pp
li ti T lc e a t
iny p ick titc
h (p ge 19 3) to co
m plete the 
fn aı
w ith bces l l us
e ilk ıh c d to m a
tch fb ics w ith she
en or b ttonho
l t ist
Ë . sPa e bcl cc the 
t
t i t ch C l N t the un
derstitches w iu be l ng 
e l p to
T le inviibıe ıippe shoul
d also be applied by h
nd for the b st results o
n hard to
h ndle tbrics F ollow the 
ı ic instructions for exac
t pıacem en t b t 
in se t it w ith a
t ıdy p Ick tith ery c
lose to the zipper teeth
Z ipper U nderlap
T potect your skin an
d nde g m e ts place a p
iece 【 g o g ain
ibbon ( t le st one inch lo ge tha t
he opening) over the teeth H em
the uppe edge f the r 让山 on
e ding the ribbon at the s
lider S ew tlıe
l g edge to one seam allow ance 
oE the ope i g w idı b ckstitc
h C atclı
stitch the l end to the seam allow ances F a
ten w ith a tiny sn ap
Shortening Z ippers
Som e g m e ts y req ire a zipper lengtlı that can not be purchase
d In su ch a case
purchase longe ipper and shorten it C hoose the ņ ıethod that applies to your par
ucula needs from those show n below
A T B O T T O M F or any type of zipper B aste or stitch zipper to the garm en t Then take
several whipstitches over the teeth l4 below end of opening to keep zipper teeth together
(1) N e t sew . Ia \ straight m etal eye above the w hipstitches to act as a new bottom stop
C ut oÆ the excess ipper į below the m etal eye (2) C om plete your zipper application
i£ you haven t lready done so
A T T O P ifyo rzipperm ustbe shortened trom the top FirSt baste zipper to w ithin oneinch of point w here zipper teeth should end O pen zipper to basting and reıııove extrateeth T o m ake new stops bend straight eyes in half and slip over the zipper tape abovethe teethsew securely C lose zipper turn dow n tape ends trim aw ay excess tape and sewends securely in place (3) C onıplete your zipper application
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Theersatiłe pper
Ħ
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precious tim e savers ın
yourbusy life
N l th ipp t ĺ iti th lı i
Slot or C entered A pplication
T his ppli ti i th one m ost feq e tly used A tt h the f ing be[ e installing
the ippe T i d g d the e unde stith the fci g to the seam allow ances
T hen t rn d p ess the f ing W aistbands etc A re applied a Eter ipper i inse ted
O pe o t fcings M chine baste openig edges together al ng seam lines and press
seam open F ce dow plce closed zippe on pened seam allow ances ith zipper teeth
centered over the seam line and baste (1) L ocate the p 1ı tab % below neck seam line
O n outside stitch by m achine or
hand across low er end arıd continue
along sides % from basted seam (2)
C om pleting the Eacin R is both
quick and easy S im ply turn the fac
3 
A ppli i h y f U iq Z ipp
l
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Lapped A pplica
fion
in e ted int the opening
B etause the facing nıay have a t' " ' " y " hk
niq e cauing fr sp
ecial m anip lation of the facing belore it is stitched to the
F A C IN G A s you are pinning 【he fac
ing in
place tum back 
1 on the end of the over
lapping sideand uinı to % T hen st
itch the
facing to the gam ıenL cont
inuing to the very
end of the \ ning T im grade A nd clip all
seanı auow ances stopping just short of the
unfaced portion of the seaııı allow ance (1)
U nderstitch the fađng to the ııeckline seam
alJow anceĘ then tum and press (2)
Insert your zipper as directed below T urn
the facing and zipper tape to the inside T he 
overlapping facing end w iJl au tom atfcally 艮ı勇 . ： ヘ 广 一
clear the zipper teeth T urn in the other en d ţH ĝ į ; ?
to clear the zipper S lipstitch the facing ends
in place and the upper neckline edges to . 1gether A nchor the rem aining facing edge
(3) C om pıete the larped appĽ cation w ith a
hook sem on the inside and an eye sew n to
the outside of your garm ent (4)
A P P L IC A T IO N C om pie[e steps ı and 2
jf you are appıyng your zipper to a faced
garm ent edge T hen m ark tııe seam line on
the underlapped opening edge w ith thread
tracing T um in the edge ys from the traced
seam line in rhe seam auow ance baste and
press A tiny fold wilı appear fn the seam
allow ance at the ıow er edge T hen turn in
the full seanı alıow ance on the other 叩 ening
edge basteandpress (5)
P lace the underlapped edge over the zip
per tape with the bottom stop of the zipper
even with the end of the garm ent openingB aste close to the zjpper teeth leaving
enough room for the puLI tab to slide easilyStitch close to edge by hand or m achine (6)
1
p iti th e lppig dg t j t e
th tit hig pp it id f p i g
B t iig i ppe t p i pl t b
e it d n t hift d ig tit hi g N
stit h by hi h d r th l w
nd pi tig t e d ti i g 
l g
th id ii f th dg (7)
S eparating Z ipper
yo ld lt ppli tio tiu k ep
i g
O n the i side t n the f i g d h ? TWds i to le th ipper teeth sıip titch
C th titch the em i i g f i g d hem
dge in pl e T i a y li ing seam 1
low ances m kig su e the lng edge cle
the ippe teeth b le lose to the edge 5lip
stitch i pl e (2)
S eparating ippers w ith tw o pull tabs for reversible garm ents are ava
ilable T he ip
per area inside the reversible garm ent is ħnished so that it is Identical 
in appearance to
the outside B aste zi pper in pl e as above keeping the long edges ot the open
ing [ree
on the inside F rom the inside Turn under the seam allow ances so the edges m eet over the
center of the zipper baste F rom the right side sew along basting through all thicknesses
Side Z ipper O pening
T he regulation dress zipper has a top stop in addition to the standard bottom stop
You m ay purchase this zipper or convert the regular or invisible types T o m ake a top
stop sim ply w hipstitch the upper edges of the tape together or place a m etal eye at the
topoE the teeth (ason page 3 1 1) once you have decided on the correct length tor the open
ing T rim any excess T he zipper is then iï ıserted in a seam that is cıosed at bot\ı enııs
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B efore jing ipper be sure t
he open
ing ïm gth is atua
l to the zipper length w ith
the bottom stop barely conce
aled Rf the zip
pcr is too long s
horten it as on p \ 3 1 1
T w your pper the sam e as L apped
Slot or C en tcre & or In visible application
ignoring facing 
instructionx A s you com
pletc the ń pper se
w the m ds and the long
edge by or stitdı 
by ıııachine
Ħy front Placket
O pen the ippe K e pig the right fo t
t e stitch on the outi? thr gh ıı thik
esses ; plce y tithe ear the ippe
teeth nd l t th fıded dg t th
lft f t M hi b te l g the se li p
across ipper t pes so th p ll t b ill n t
slide oE the end N ow tri tıe e ds f ippe
even ith th ppe dge if e y (5)
B eca se tle b e f the pm ing i bje t
to t i se e ith b t (6)
K nife Pleated Skirt
Ħ e pl k t opening is uy l ted t th cent b k the 
lf [ id d i th
ı t e t be tiuh d S rit h thi ı t I ig pe ig ĺ th pl k t
(m ı t ple t i d ft thi e istit h L ) B s e to h e the 【 in id
fld th t it iu t h U se eg l kit ipp d ı r th t th de
fld f tle pl t iu be d p m o gh to o d te yo ipp T
t y la t
pleat tum th e ıppiıg e tin to tıe insi? l g th pl t fldli nd b te m p
th s all ce of ıle nde secti t the pıa k t ki » as ho T th eam
ll a f the d ea io t the i ide å d b t (1) P ı tıe edg t the u der
ti o e th ipper tape ūh tie b u t p e e ith the d f th peııig H e
the edg d t tıe teeth itıı j t gh oom fo the p ll t ı to sıid ily B te
ca eflly the titċ h the ndersecti t th pper t pe near the ippe teein (2)
P lce th iıing ide f ti ń pper {m d o tııe r d lay of the ve ıpping
ea ion U e ipp teetl ill tu d beyond tle ra li e B t the ippe to the nder
ly ke pig the e t oE the skirt inee T h titd \ a ay from the zipper tee con tin
ig oss tl e d £ the ipper beı the top b d titd (3) A tt h th itb ņ d nd
lo e it sec eıy itlhooks and eye as how n on pase 3 0 1
Z ippers used w ith box A cco dion or inve ted pıe ts that hang inee 【rom ? e w aistıine
can be inserted by dıe invisible or alot application
F or creating your ow ıı decoratie ippen t m to the trim s section page 38 7
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3 18
W aıstbands
S \ t W ıistband
T lıis w aistbaııd is cut on the lengthw ise
grain for the least am ount of stretch and
can be oonstructed in m any w ays B ase your
construction on the type of 如山 ric the style
of the garm ent and the w ear that it w ill
receive F iıst construct the garm en t leaving
the appr 叩 ria te seam open for the zipper
T tıen apply your zipper leaving 】 pıus tïıe
seam auow ance betw een the zipper stop and
the raw eqge of the w aistline area
Interface the notched edge of the w aist
band as required by your falbric T hen ttım
w aistband right sides together along foldline S titch ends to within % of the edgeG rade seam s and trūn corners (I) T um and
P ress using a poıınding blodt or etapper onheavy or bullĹy ıabric
P in and baste the w aistband to the garm ent m atching m arkings E ase the garm entto 6t the w aistband stitch T rim and gradeseam s teaving garm en t seam allow ancewidest P ress seam tow ard w aistband T urnin the rem ainingraw edge and slipstitch overtħe seam con tinuing across the underlap (2)Fasten with hooks and eyes placing largerhooks at the point of grea test strain (3)
o therw jse by the
rap P
P ą ttr
V ariations on a Straight W aistband
I£ y fb i i fily h y b lky y y ih t e f h fll i g h
d t li i t b lk d l H t th itb d
F i t To d th idg d h ll ll t th itli t d
i di ti ly th itb d pattern pi ith li £ h t h d dg
e e ith l g T h l g t fi ih d dg d i t t d d (1)T h d iti p d tli l b lky pp C t th itb d
f y fb i q l to it f ih d idth pı t ll L p g g i
ibbo (p h d i th e idth th ħ ih d itb d) h pp
ll ce e e ith th li tit h ń bb l to dg (2)
F i ih b th itb d by fldi g th ight id t g th l g th pp li
T he l t itio i q ik st dy y t f ih 
iģitb d l p ty g t S titch thight id f th itb d t th g ide £ th g r
m ent P se to d the itb d T in the
em i i g edg d b te it ver th e m o theł \ ight id f g t F th ight ide edgestitchį W l{\ \ aro nd th tire w itb d th gh ll thikne es (3)
C ontour W aistband
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i# 
Ĥ
Faced W ıistıine
H em s
O e f the t i p t [ hi p t f
y g t i it h li A lth gh h { 1
p p f th h m i t h lp y g t h g
ll by ddig ight t the dg iti i
he le gth ill l h g the ilh tt d
p po ti f y g t T b ı1y 
plie Y d b h ld i lde e ı dif
f e t he li d th p yi g iıı t
ti ill h y the ten p i ip l l gth
T h p i t E hich h li e n t ate p 
d i idk K l gth G ig p d
w e ha e Sh rt j b th k e M i i id
thigh d M i o i i highĄ high G ig d
d are th L g tt l gth A b C u j t
bel th k M idalf h lf y b t ee t
d kle M idib t e idcalf and kl d
M i o a kle l gth e en ith th kı b n
w g g oo e \ / ı
A
th H d F l le gth t hig the lloo ı
W ih to ė ph i th f t th t th i o
U 1 6 U
sta d d he length that i o ect fo eve y
A l y let the l gth m ost be iw to
y i ll y ch ice f hem le el V - "T le fabń and the tyıe f y J g m ent deter
a ine tlıe depth f y hem Y U need ider
h f light eight or ga y fb ics and straight
skits S t et hy fab i ch a k it or ßa ed
skirts dict t narrow er hem s N a ow roued hem 4
Ą N E E L E N G T H
or very deep heıııs are suitable [or sheers
M easure the hem d ń ng the la t littig after
all the changes have been m ade th t m ight « ect
the lıang o ĺ the hem T m to F itting page 3 35lor the correct m ethods to use w hen m arking ahm If your hem is bia or circular let the gar
nıent hang 2 4 hours to set the bis beEore m arkingP hı the hem in place w ith the pins at ń ght
aııgıes to the hem line R egardıe« of m ea» ure
the hem shoıłtd ıooJ right M inor correc
A X ı
tions m ay have to be m ade to allow for opticalillusions especially w ith pıaids stripes or pleats
A w eum ade hem is alw ays the least noticeable L °
hem E li i ate bulk reduce extra {ullness
P ress carefully to prevent ń dges A nd never pull
tlıe stitches tightly as you sew
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C IR C U L A R H E M T his hem should be
about one inch in depth to elim inate bulk r / Iand excess fullness L et the garm ent hang fof24 hours before m arking T hen m ark and 1 1 1
com pıete hem foııowing the steps for the
eased hem above
T h plt th h
N A R R O W H E M F or blouses Iíngerie and
accessories use a narrow hem F olding in theraw edge IV turn up a narrow hem S titchbym achine through all thickne ses for casual ŲClothes or sıipstitch to com plete the hem
Silks and sheers require the couture touch of a handrolled hem refer to page 368
h i i pi s f m t
he tide fte p
i g nđ the raw 
edg s are fu ish
d
ecurely ith t b lk st
it h y f aw 1
dg u ig l ge tit
h if y hem n
l be
e s d O e t dg i g thi
titching a K T
ıideT u e i iible hem Tur
the 
A 
\
dge b k \ d bli d h
S T I T C H E D A N D P I N K E D H cre i
T h phk r 1ıp the edge a dhem stitch
T U R N E D U N D E R U se this G nish for light
nd di eight w ash ble fabrics for
sheers A nd fo lim p hem s T r in the raw
edge l4 d stitch close to the fold (O m it
this stitching for sheers) T hen com plete hem
Special H em s
B IA S F A C E D H E M A fcing constructed o [ a lightw eight fabric w ill pro ide a sm oothfinish for garm ents w ith inadequate hem aı1ow ances very full skirts or very bulky [ab
rics You m ay use either com m ercial bias facing or your ow n bias strip cut from a light
w eight m aterial the desired w idth plus y4 seam allow ances for upper and low er edgesM ark your hem line leaving at least yz additional fabric at the bottom edge F or avery curved hem line shape the bias to the
garm ent M atch raw edges and stitch in a % 山
seam joining the ends ot the facing as on
page 232 P ress seam open T rn in raw edge1
4 turn facing up anđ slipstitch
= ı = Ł s
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tdcp·de 
ı3 9 4 m ıtp ?
ıp卅江イ 妇 i 岧 イ团
r血 出血a 麗回 國 イ
iぽ ぜ ん 口 画画崮旨昏
m ıEA Æ pF w » « gan E « yle or fabric m ay require the ( ontroı ot an intethøozz ä ea \ H « » n ıii» M m tile k antine w hh thread tracing U ae
lahm & r b« b or laanbı w ool for a rofter T Tien cut a biu
« ipde ni= ıf p i aad Joıgem gh to Jap tJıe m ds % N ece if neceısary and
p* * pe iııa inig m m repoM k ith tine cur e ď your hem P lace strip olEr
m oae t4p ewwg i below the ead tracing Sew m underlini 彆 r$ith
b r r》 ig 《iu Ĥ e aıo《g ? k antūtū and 】¢m g cztchstitches along the upp ? r edgeTb tena? lp« q m baiıedoıeto tlle ıL łl I
衄 * i自自aM opereź 《 !紜 rr r台 iitd 回国团团国贸ı= 回国团团团团园
P# JóıĖr Soft and £xırem ely C un ed U em iF e r i m \ t j o n of pre» ing niqM equípm ent to use on henn see page 33 1
pressing
T h t li ly fiih d ı k e y t ie [ i l p d t t g d p igit i f c fl t ti D t ig p ig di ti i y h t d lIf y po tp y p ig til th g e t is c pıt d it ill b ıt t
c m plih lld ħ d edg d lpt ed t S t p T p ig q ip t
y ig m chi d it fithflly
T h o t im p t il t e b i th t p i g i t i i g p ig i th
P oce t liftig th i d settig it d g i in th p p p iti Y
W ig to pıih l t p ibı ith dl d tı d
SPecificallyp ig te h iq e d pe d th p ti l fb i d g
u ti b t the e s b i l hih h ld l y b [ ı1 ed
H e s t e t f q ip t ilbl h y pl th
fb i i th m t p ti l p itio [ th b i g p d
A l y test dd p o an i pic o e t d t i th
b st t h iq e f y fb i T t pi ı g gh t u w 
C p i b t th p d p ti d th p d p ti
C heck y fb i ea ti t te m d it B th ı ıd b
d sp igly r w ate m p ke i g d d ılig y lL
P re ith the g i of y fb i w he e po ibl ; be y [ l
not t t et h edge o cur e by p llig the [abń c
D W ne e er possibl p ess on the w g id of T ur tbń t It yo m st
press on the ight sid p loth
D U se b o p pe tń ps to p e e t im p e ions ot se 1ıow ances
darts or pıe ts from ppe i g on the right ide t y fb i C t
strip at le st 2 w ide th the area to be pressed
A lw ays p e seam s d d rts beĺ o e they are crosseđ itı\ oth seam s
to elim in te y ex t bulk
N ever press any sh rp creases untiı the ħt of your Rarm ent ı\as been
double« hedted
D Try to use only the tip of yo inon and w ork in the sam e diection as
you stitched
D T o avoid nıaıriııg labriq do not press over basting threads or pins
ロ A bove all Kno your ĺ abń c and do not oueT pess
P ress C loth
T o prevent shine and protect your fabń c trom the he t ol the iron and its im p es ion
tï se an appropriate pres£ cloth betw een the fabric nd the iron P ress cloths are m ade
or a variety of fabrics T he one you use depends upon the nature ot your garm ent [abric
Select one ot a w eight sim ilar to the w eiglıt o ĺ your fabric and use a size approxim ately
]2 by 18 A n extra strap of your [abń c m akes an exoeı1ent press cloth In generaı a
w ooı preıs cloth is best {or preserving the spongy texture ot w oolens w hile ūrm cotton
h ideal for m ost flaturfaced cottons and nıedium w eight blends C heese cloth used
singly or folđed sevm ı tim es w iı1 readily a? pt to nıost ot Your needs because it is
supple and you cuı see through it for pressing dem
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曾口如一口. 昏 . 헙
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一、名 一1 W 、單。弘習。门。。一コ叫弘口。一コ叫门ロコ。一川口门-一口口 阴ロ一- 껍ーミ . 叫门弘门-。(口口甲叫。 国コユロ。ず伯川 學叫门單。，ブ單ド
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门门. 一巴コ 學ー丁一( 、 (、甲-一コ 门。门경 ヨ 治-口一一丁 司房ー く门一 。一ーげ 。낵コ .ブ作-一( 。) 廖コ昏 一叫ー ヨ 。 (접国一一一门。-门。
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エ自ヨ 田
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