Lonely Planet France 11 languedoc roussillon (ed 2015)

Prévia do material em texto

France
•	Nîmes	&	around
•	Alès	&	around
•	Montpellier
•	Sète
•	Agde
•	Béziers
•	Narbonne	&	around
•	Carcassonne
•	Parc	National	des	
Cévennes
•	Gorges	du	Tarn
•	Parc	Naturel	
Régional	des	Grands	
Causses
•	Mende	&	around
•	Roquefort
•	Roussillon
•	Perpignan	&	around
•	Têt	Valley
•	Côte	Vermeille
COVERAGE INCLUDES:	
Languedoc-
Roussillon 
(PDF Chapter)
Edition	11th	Edition,	March	2015
Pages 48
Page Range	713–760
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Best Places to Eat
 ¨ Jardin des Sens (p730) 
 ¨ Auberge du Vieux Puits 
(p736)
 ¨ Saveurs et Sens (p729)
 ¨ Le Cerf à Moustache 
(p719)
 ¨ Bistro d’Alex (p759)
Best Places to 
Stay
 ¨ Baudon de Mauny (p728) 
 ¨ Le Relais des Chartreuses 
(p755) 
 ¨ La Buissonière (p722)
 ¨ Château de la Caze (p747)
 ¨ Château de Palaja (p739)
POP 2.8 MILLION
When to Go
Apr Hike in 
the hills of the 
Cévennes before 
the summer heat 
and crowds.
Aug Head for 
Sète to watch 
the annual joutes 
nautiques 
(water-jousting).
Sep Celebrate the 
vendange (grape 
harvest) with 
vineyard parties 
and viticultural 
festivals.
F DNOSAJJMAMJ
Montpellier
°C/°F Temp Rainfall Inches/mm 
0
5/125
6/150
2/50
3/75
4/100
1/25
10/50
0/32
-10/14
30/86
40/104
20/68
Languedoc-Roussillon
Why Go?
Stretching along France’s southwestern coastline from 
Provence to the Pyrenees, Languedoc feels like a country 
in its own right. Sultry and sun-baked, it’s been a strategic 
border since Roman times, and the area is littered with his-
torical reminders, from Roman aqueducts to hilltop Cathar 
castles. These days it’s best known for its vineyards, which 
produce a third of all French wine, and its busy beaches, 
which sprawl all along its Mediterranean coast.
Modern Languedoc-Roussillon is really three areas in 
one, each with its own distinct landscape and character. 
Bas-Languedoc is the coastal area, home to the biggest 
beaches and the cities of Montpellier and Nîmes. Inland lies 
the high, wild country of the Haut-Languedoc and its hills, 
caves, gorges and forests, exemplified by the wild Parc Na-
tional des Cévennes. To the west is Roussillon, which shares 
close ties with Catalonia just across the Spanish border – not 
least a passion for rugby, bullfights and summer ferias.
Includes ¨
Nîmes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 716
Alès & Around . . . . . . .723
Montpellier . . . . . . . . .724
Sète . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .732
Agde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .734
Béziers . . . . . . . . . . . . .734
Narbonne . . . . . . . . . . .734
Carcassonne . . . . . . . .736
Gorges du Tarn . . . . . .746
Roquefort . . . . . . . . . . 750
Perpignan . . . . . . . . . . 751
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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BAS-LANGUEDOC
The broad, flat plains of Bas-Languedoc boast 
all of the Languedoc’s main towns, as well as 
its best beaches, richest Roman remains and 
(arguably) its finest wines.
During the Middle Ages, Bas-Languedoc 
was largely the property of the counts of 
Toulouse, but it now forms the modern-day 
départements of Gard and Hérault.
 8Getting Around
A bus journey anywhere within the Gard départe-
ment costs a flat-rate €1.50. Full timetables are 
available from Edgard (www.edgard-transport.
fr). As always, trains are the fastest way to get 
between the major towns.
 Nîmes
POP 146,500
Nîmes is a busy commercial city these days, 
but two millennia ago it was one of the most 
important cities of Roman Gaul – a fact that’s 
made clear by the city’s collection of Roman 
buildings, including a magnificent amphithe-
atre and 2000 year-old temple.
Though not quite as dynamic as Montpel-
lier, Nîmes is nonetheless an attractive city, 
with plenty of museums and markets to ex-
plore, as well as a host of high-profile festivals 
throughout the year. It’s also famous for its 
contribution to global couture – namely the 
hard-wearing twill fabric known as serge de 
Nîmes, traditionally worn by agricultural la-
bourers, and nowadays known to all as denim.
FAST FACTS
 ¨ Area 27,376 sq km
 ¨ Local industry winemaking, 
agriculture, tourism
 ¨ Signature drink red wine
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1 Sights
oLes Arènes RoMAN SiTeS
(www.arenes-nimes.com; place des Arènes; adult/
child €9/7; h9am-8pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours 
rest of year) Nîmes’ twin-tiered amphitheatre 
is the best-preserved in France. Built around 
100 BC, the arena would have seated 24,000 
spectators and staged gladiatorial contests 
and public executions, and it still provides an 
impressive venue for gigs, events and sum-
mer bullfights. An audioguide provides con-
text as you explore the arena, seating areas, 
stairwells and corridors (rather marvellously 
known to Romans as vomitories), and after-
wards you can view replicas of gladiatorial 
armour and original bullfighters’ costumes in 
the museum.
At 133m long, 101m wide and 21m high, 
with an oval arena encircled by two tiers of 
arches and columns, the amphitheatre is a 
testament to the skill and ingenuity of Roman 
architects. Despite being adapted, plunderedfor stone and generally abused over many 
centuries, the structure of the amphitheatre 
is still largely intact, and it’s not hard to im-
agine what the atmosphere must have been 
like when it was filled to capacity.
The seating is divided into four tiers and 
34 rows; the posher you were, the closer you 
sat to the centre. The amphitheatre’s oval 
design meant everyone had an unrestricted 
view. A system of trap-doors and hoist-lifts 
beneath the arena enabled animals and com-
batants to be put into position during the 
show. Originally, the amphitheatre would 
have had a canopy that protected spectators 
from the weather.
Since 2012 a project has been underway to 
clean limescale and pollution stains from the 
exterior, so there may be scaffolding when you 
visit.
Maison Carrée RoMAN SiTeS
(place de la Maison Carrée; adult/child €5.50/4; 
h10am-8pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year) 
Constructed in gleaming limestone around 
AD 5, this temple was built to honour Emper-
or Augustus’ two adopted sons. Despite the 
name, the Maison Carrée (Square House) is 
actually rectangular – to the Romans, ‘square’ 
simply meant a building with right angles. 
The building is beautifully preserved, com-
plete with stately columns and triumphal 
steps; it’s worth paying the admission to see 
the interior, but probably worth skipping the 
lame 3D film.
Jardins de la Fontaine RoMAN SiTeS
(Tour Magne adult/child €3.20/2.70; hTour Magne 
9.30am-6.30pm) The elegant Jardins de la Fon-
taine conceal several Roman remains, most 
notably the 30m-high Tour Magne, raised 
around 15 BC. Built as a display of imperial 
power, it’s the largest of a chain of towers that 
once punctuated the city’s 7km-long Roman 
ramparts. At the top of its 140 steps, there’s 
an orientation table to help you interpret the 
panorama over Nîmes.
Elsewhere around the gardens are the 
Source de la Fontaine – once the site of a 
spring, temple and baths – and the crumbling 
Temple de Diane, located in the gardens’ 
northwest corner.
Carré d’Art MuSeuM
(www.carreartmusee.com; place de la Maison Car-
rée; permanent collection free, exhibitions adult/
Nîmes 
æ Top Sights 10 La Petite Fadette ..................................... B1 
 1 Les Arènes ............................................... C4 11 Le Cerf à Moustache ...............................B3 
 12 Les Halles ................................................. B1 
æ Sights 13 L'Imprévu .................................................A2 
 2 Carré d'Art ............................................... A2 14 L'Oustaù Nadal ........................................C2 
 3 Maison Carrée ......................................... A2 15 Maison Villaret .........................................B2 
 4 Musée Archéologique ............................ D2 
 Musée d'Histoire Naturelle .............(see 4) û Drinking & Nightlife 
 5 Musée du Vieux Nîmes........................... C2 16 Café Olive .................................................B3 
 17 Grand Café de la Bourse et du 
ÿ Sleeping Commerce.............................................B3 
 6 Hôtel Central ............................................D1 
 7 Hôtel de l'Amphithéâtre......................... B3 ý Entertainment 
 8 Royal Hôtel .............................................. A2 18 Ciné Sémaphore......................................B4 
 19 Théâtre de Nîmes ....................................B2 
ú Eating 
 9 Carré d'Art ............................................... A2 
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child €5/3.70; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) The striking 
glass-and-steel building facing the Maison 
Carrée was designed by British architect Sir 
Norman Foster. Inside is the municipal li-
brary and the Musée d’Art Contemporain, 
with permanent and temporary exhibitions 
covering art from the 1960s onwards. The 
rooftop restaurant makes a lovely spot for 
lunch.
Musée du Vieux Nîmes MuSeuM
(place aux Herbes; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) F 
The town museum delves into the history 
of Nîmes from Roman times through to the 
modern era, with lots of period costumes and 
a display of denim-wearing celebrities includ-
ing Elvis and Marilyn Monroe. Located inside 
Nîmes’ 17th-century episcopal palace.
Musée Archéologique ARCHAeoloGiCAl MuSeuM
(13 bd Amiral Courbet; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) F 
Nîmes’ archaeological museum has a col-
lection of Roman tombs, mosaics and other 
artifacts unearthed around the city. There’s 
an intriguing display on the city’s Iron Age 
origins and its massive transformation during 
the Roman era.
Musée d’Histoire Naturelle MuSeuM
(13 bd Amiral Courbet; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) F 
Sharing the same building as the Musée 
Archéologique, the Natural History Museum 
has the usual displays of stuffed beasties, fos-
sils and skeletons, as well as a few menhirs 
decorated by prehistoric artists. Don’t forget 
to say bonjour to Maurice the stuffed giraffe 
as you enter.
Musée des Beaux-Arts ART MuSeuM
(rue de la Cité Foulc; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) F 
The city’s fine-arts museum has a fairly pedes-
trian collection of Flemish, Italian and French 
works, although it’s worth a look for the fine 
Roman mosaic that can be viewed from the 
1st floor. Entry to the permanent collection is 
free. Located about 200m south of Les Arènes.
z Festivals & Events
Les Grands Jeux Romains eveNT
For two days in mid-April, Romans again take 
over town with an encampment, staged glad-
iatorial battles in Les Arènes and a triumphal 
street parade.
Féria de Pentecôte & 
Féria des Vendanges BullFiGHTiNG
Nîmes becomes more Catalan than French 
during its two férias (bullfighting festivals): 
the five-day Féria de Pentecôte (Whitsuntide 
Festival) in June, and the three-day Féria des 
Vendanges on the third weekend in Septem-
ber. Each is marked by daily corridas (bull-
fights).
Jeudis de Nîmes FeSTivAl
Between 6pm and 10.30pm every Thursday in 
July and August, food markets and live gigs 
take over Nîmes’ squares.
4 Sleeping
Auberge de Jeunesse HoSTel €
(%04 66 68 03 20; www.hinimes.com; 257 chemin 
de l’Auberge de Jeunesse, la Cigale; dm/d €16.45/38; 
hreception 7.30am-1am) It’s out in the sticks, 
4km from the bus and train stations, but this 
hostel has lots in its favour: spacious dorms, 
family rooms, a garden with space for camp-
ing, and a choice of self-catering kitchen or 
cafe. Take bus I, direction Alès or Villeverte, 
and get off at the Stade stop.
Hôtel Central HoTel €
(%04 66 67 27 75; www.hotel-central.org; 2 place 
du Château; d €60-95, f €90-125) If you like your 
lines clean and your clutter minimal, this re-
cently modernised hotel will suit you nicely. 
The rooms have been renovated with wood-
en floors, neutral colours and sleek bath-
rooms, with exposed stone left for character; 
Supérieure rooms offer the most space. The 
lack of lift is a drawback considering the num-
ber of stairs. If you’re driving, ring ahead to 
ask them to reserve you a parking space.
oHôtel de l’Amphithéâtre HoTel €€
(%04 66 67 28 51; www.hoteldelamphitheatre.
com; 4 rue des Arènes; s/d/f €72/92/130) Down 
a narrow backstreet leading away from Les 
Arènes, this tall townhouse ticks all the boxes: 
smart rooms with shabby-chic furniture and 
balconies overlooking the place du Marché; a 
sleek palette of greys, whites and taupes; and 
a great buffet breakfast. It’s run by an expat 
Cornishman and his French wife.
PASS NÎMES ROMAINE
A joint ticket (adult/child €11.50/9) 
covers admission to Les Arènes, Maison 
Carrée and Tour Magne, and remains 
valid for three days.
All three sites have the same closing 
hours: 8pm in July and August;7pm in 
June; 6.30pm in April, May and Septem-
ber; 6pm in March and October; and 
5.30pm from November to February.
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Les Cabanes Oxyzen CoTTAGeS €€
(%04 66 84 99 80; www.chambres-hotes-nimes.
com; 80 impasse du Couchant; d €140-150; Ws) 
Fabulous fun: three ultra-contemporary tim-
ber cabins, arranged around a lush Mediter-
ranean garden and swimming pool shaded 
by oaks and strawberry trees. Each cabin 
has its own letter theme (X for XXL, Y for 
Yellow, Z for Zen) with corresponding decor. 
It’s 6km northwest of the centre.
Royal Hôtel HoTel €€
(%04 66 58 28 27; www.royalhotel-nimes.com; 
3 bd Alphonse Daudet; d €82-102, f €163; aW) 
This upmarket hotel offers grace and style. 
Bedrooms have a choice of street views or 
an outlook over the grand place d’Assas. 
They’re split into standard and superior, 
all with modern-meets-heritage decor; it’s 
worth bumping up a level for extra space 
and air-con. The downstairs restaurant, La 
Boduegita, offers solid Med dining.
La Clapeyrole B&B, SelF-CoNTAiNeD €€
(%04 66 26 85 06; 222 impasse de la Clapeyrole; 
d per night €120-130, per week €700-900) This 
detached house is a stunner, set among the 
wooded hills above Nîmes, about 10 min-
utes’ drive from the centre. Modern lines, 
minimalist decor and a pool encircled by 
olive trees provide a level of indulgence that 
normally costs twice the price. It’s about 
7km northeast of town, off the D979.
Les Jardins Secrets B&B €€€
(%04 66 84 82 64; www.jardinssecrets.net; 3 rue 
Gaston Maruejols; d €195-380, ste €380-450; W) 
For doing Nîmes en luxe, nowhere tops the 
Secret Gardens. Decorated to resemble an 
18th-century maison bourgeoise, it’s drip-
ping with luxury, from chaise longues and 
antique clawfoot baths to a wonderful Ro-
man-style bathhouse and divine gardens – 
but for these kind of prices, you’d think they 
could include breakfast and parking (an ex-
tra €25 and €20 respectively).
Hôtel Imperator Concorde HoTel €€€
(%04 66 21 90 30; www.nimes.concorde-hotels.
com; quai de la Fontaine; r from €180) Nîmes’ 
longstanding grand hotel, with a guest list 
that’s taken in everyone from famous mata-
dors to European aristocrats (and Heming-
way, of course). It’s staid in style, heavy on 
drapes and heritage furniture, but some of 
the rooms are looking seriously dated.
5 Eating
Nîmes’ gastronomy owes as much to the spicy 
flavours of Provence as to the meaty richness 
of the Languedoc. 
La Petite Fadette CAFe €
(%04 66 67 53 05; 34 rue du Grand Couvent; menus 
€9.50-14.50; h8am-7pm) Salads and crispy tar-
tines (open toasted sandwiches) are the order 
of the day at this homely cafe, with a cute ro-
coco interior lined with vintage photos, and 
outside tables on a small courtyard on the rue 
du Grand Couvent. The food isn’t fancy, but 
portions are huge: try the smoked salmon or 
the cured ham and goat’s cheese.
oLe Cerf à Moustache BiSTRo €€
(%09 81 83 44 33; 38 bd victor Hugo; mains €14-
35; h11.45am-2pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat) Despite its 
weird name, the Deer with the Moustache 
has quickly established itself as one of Nîmes’ 
top bistros, with quirky decor (including re-
claimed furniture and a wall full of old-book 
doodles), matched by chef Julien Salem’s crea-
tive take on the classics. Go basic with burgers 
and risotto, or upmarket with crusted lamb 
and chunky steaks.
L’Imprévu MoDeRN FReNCH €€
(%04 66 38 99 59; www.l-imprevu.com; 6 place d’As-
sas; mains €19.50-27.50; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Thu-
Mon; E) A fine-dining French bistro tucked in 
the corner of place d’Assas, with an open-plan 
kitchen and a cute interior courtyard. There’s 
a good choice of seafood and meats, from sea 
bass in balsamic vinaigrette to thyme-mari-
nated lamb. Dishes are mainly à la carte, al-
though there’s a limited menu du jour.
Le Nocturne BiSTRo €€
(%04 66 67 20 28; www.restaurant-le-nocturne.
com; 29bis rue Benoît Malon; mains €20-30; h8pm-
2am) Swish but not snooty, this is a fine place 
to dine on rich southwest flavours. Duck, foie 
gras and mushrooms feature heavily – in 
fact, you can have your duck breast with a 
choice of four sauces (raspberry, apple, cep or 
morel), try a classic confit de canard (duck 
cooked in its own fat) or even try it au tartare 
(served raw). It’s on rue Benoît Malon, about 
10 minutes’ walk west of Les Arènes.
Carré d’Art GASTRoNoMiC €€
(%04 66 67 52 40; www.restaurant-lecarredart.fr; 2 
rue Gaston Boissier; lunch/dinner menu €19.50/32; 
hnoon-3pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat) Open since 
1989, this gastronomic heavy-hitter is still 
one of Nîmes’ top fine-dining addresses. The 
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setting is elegant, in a 19th-century town-
house decked out with abstract art and a gor-
geous shaded courtyard, and the food gives 
traditional French a modern spin: mackerel 
escabèche, or Provençal sea bass with auber-
gine caviar.
Self-Catering
Les Halles MARkeT
(rue Guizot, rue Général Perrier & rue des Halles; 
h6.30am-1pm) Nîmes’ covered market is 
the best place for supplies: look out for 
local specialities including picholines (a 
local green olive with its own AOC) and 
brandade (salt cod).
Maison Villaret BoulANGeRie
(13 rue de la Madeleine; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 
1pm Sun) This family boulangerie (bakery) 
makes 25 different kinds of bread, cakes 
and biscuits, such as caladons (honey and 
almond-studded biscuits).
L’Oustaù Nadal DeliCATeSSeN
(place aux Herbes; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat) Goodies 
such as tapenade, honey and olive oil (includ-
ing three kinds on tap).
6 Drinking & Nightlife
Place aux Herbes, place de l’Horloge and place 
du Marché are packed with busy cafes.
Grand Café de la Bourse 
et du Commerce BAR
(bd des Arènes; h8am-midnight) Step back in 
time to a more elegant era at this opulent 
19th-century cafe opposite Les Arènes, gleam-
ing with chandeliers and mirrors.
Café Olive BAR
(%04 66 67 89 10; 22 bd victor Hugo; h9am-1pm 
Mon-Sat) A lively little nightspot, the stone 
walls and dim lighting of which give it a cosy 
cavern vibe. There are regular gigs and a great 
choice of wines by the glass.
3 Entertainment
Les Arènes is the major venue for outdoor 
spectacles such as concerts, pageants and 
bullfights.
Ciné Sémaphore CiNeMA
(%04 66 67 83 11; www.cinema-semaphore.fr; 25 rue 
Porte de France) Five screens showing version 
originale (VO, or nondubbed) films.
Théâtre de Nîmes PeRFoRMiNG ARTS
(%04 66 36 02 04; www.theatredenimes.com; place 
de la Calade) Renowned venue for drama and 
music.
7 Shopping
Regular markets are held in Nîmes through-
out the week. 
Brocante Jean Jaurès FleA MARkeT
(Flea Market; bd Jean Jaurès; h8am-1pm Mon) 
Marché Jean Jaurès FARMeRS MARkeT
(Farmers Market; bd Jean Jaurès; h7am-1pm Fri) 
Held at the same place as the flea market.
Marché aux Fleurs FloWeR MARkeT
(Flower Market; h7am-6pm Mon) Held outside 
the Stade des Costières.
 8 Information
Tourist Office (%04 66 58 38 00; www.ot- 
ni mes.fr; 6 rue Auguste; h8.30am-8pm Mon-
Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun Jul & Aug, 
shorter hours rest of year) There’s also a sea-
sonal annexe (husually Jul & Aug) on esplanade 
Charles de Gaulle.
 8Getting There & Away
AIR
Nîmes’ airport (%04 66 70 49 49; www.nimes- 
aeroport.fr), 10km southeast of the city on the 
A54, is served only by Ryanair, which flies to/from 
london luton, liverpool, Brussels and Fez.
An airport bus (€5.50, 30 minutes) connects 
with all flightsto/from the train station.
BUS
The bus station (%04 66 38 59 43; rue Ste-Félic-
ité) is next to the train station. local buses are run 
by Edgard (www.edgard-transport.fr). Destina-
tions include:
Alès line A10, 1¼ hours, two to four Monday to 
Saturday
Pont du Gard line B21, 40 minutes, hourly 
Monday to Saturday, two on Sunday
Uzès line e52, 45 minutes, eight to 10 daily 
Monday to Friday, three or four on weekends
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Major car-rental companies have kiosks at the 
airport and the train station.
TRAIN
TGvs run hourly to/from Paris’ Gare de lyon 
(€62.50 to €111, three hours) from the train sta-
tion (bd Talabot). 
local destinations, with at least hourly depar-
tures, include:
Alès €8.50, 40 minutes
Arles €9, 30 minutes
Avignon €8.50, 30 minutes
Montpellier €8.50, 30 minutes
Sète €12, one hour
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 Around Nîmes
1 Sights & Activities
oPont du Gard RoMAN SiTeS
(%04 66 37 50 99; www.pontdugard.fr; car & up to 5 
passengers €18, after 8pm €10; hvisitor centre & mu-
seum 9am-8pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year) 
Southern France has some fine Roman sites, 
but nothing can top the Unesco World Herit-
age Site–listed Pont du Gard, 21km northeast 
of Nîmes. This fabulous three-tiered aqueduct 
was once part of a 50km-long system of wa-
ter channels, built around 19 BC to transport 
water from Uzès to Nîmes. The scale is huge: 
48.8m high, 275m long and graced with 35 
precision-built arches; the bridge was sturdy 
enough to carry up to 20,000 cubic metres of 
water per day.
Each block was carved by hand and trans-
ported from nearby quarries – no mean feat, 
considering the largest blocks weight over 5 
tonnes. Amazingly, the height of the bridge 
descends by just 2.5cm across its length, pro-
viding just enough gradient to keep the water 
flowing – an amazing demonstration of the 
precision of Roman engineering. The Musée 
de la Romanité provides background on the 
bridge’s construction, and the Ludo play area 
helps kids to learn in a fun, hands-on way.
You can walk across the tiers for panoramic 
views over the River Gard, but the best per-
spective on the bridge is from downstream, 
along the 1.4km Mémoires de Garrigue 
walking trail. Early evening is a good time to 
visit, as admission is cheaper and the bridge is 
stunningly illuminated after dark.
There are large car parks on both banks of 
the river, 400m walk from the bridge. Several 
buses stop nearby, including Edgard bus B21 
(hourly Monday to Saturday, two or three on 
Sunday) from Nîmes to Alès.
Perrier Plant WATeR FACToRY
(%04 66 87 61 01; www.visitez-perrier.com/en; 
adult/child €3/1, tours €4/2; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri) 
Nîmes isn’t only famous for denim – it’s also 
the home of Perrier, the world-famous fizzy 
water, which has its source in natural springs 
13km southwest of the city. The main plant 
supplies around 900 million bottles of water 
every year; you can visit the factory and watch 
a 3D film that explains Perrier’s history, the 
production process, and the reason behind 
the bottle’s iconic shape (spoiler: it’s to do 
with pressure). Remember to pick up Perrier- 
themed souvenirs in the shop.
Guided tours visit the bottling plant itself, 
but are only in French.
Uzès
POP 8450
Twenty-five kilometres northeast of Nîmes, 
the trim little town of Uzès is renowned for its 
graceful Renaissance architecture, a remind-
er of the days when this was an important 
CANOEING ON THE RIVER GARD
For a unique perspective on the Pont du Gard, you need to see it from the water. The River 
Gard flows down from the Cévennes mountains all the way to the aqueduct, passing 
through the dramatic Gorges du Gardon en route. The best time to do it is early spring 
between April and June, as winter floods and summer droughts can sometimes make the 
river impassable.
Most of the local hire companies are based in Collias, 8km from the bridge, a journey of 
about two hours by kayak. Depending on the season and the height of the river, you can 
make a longer journey by being dropped upstream at Pont St Nicholas (19km, four to five 
hours) or Russan (32km, six to seven hours); the latter option also includes a memorable 
trip through the Gardon Gorges.
Most companies are open from around 8am to 6pm in summer. There’s a minimum age 
of six, and life-jackets are always provided.
Canoë Collias (%04 66 22 87 20; www.canoe-collias.com; from Collias adult/child €22/12, from 
Russan €35/16) 
Kayak Vert (%04 66 22 80 76; www.kayakvert.com; from Collias adult/child €22/11, from Rus-
san €41/20) 
Le Tourbillon (%04 66 22 85 54; www.canoe-le-tourbillon.com; from Collias adult/child €22/11, 
from Russan €35/22) 
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trading centre – especially for silk, linen and, 
bizarrely, liquorice.
The key sights are the ducal palace and 
the arcaded central square, place aux Herbes, 
which hosts a lively farmers market every 
Wednesday and Saturday.
1 Sights & Activities
Duché CHÂTeAu
(www.duche-uzes.fr; admission €13, incl guided tour 
adult/child €18/7; h10am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm) 
This fortified château belonged to the House 
of Cressol, who were the Dukes of Uzès for 
more than 1000 years until the Revolution. 
The building is a Renaissance wonder, with 
a majestic 16th-century façade showing the 
three orders of classical architecture (Ionic, 
Doric and Corinthian). Inside, you can take 
a guided tour (in French) of the lavish ducal 
apartments and 800-year-old cellars, and 
climb the Bermonde tower for wraparound 
town views.
Jardin Médiéval GARDeN
(Medieval Garden; adult/child €4.50/2; h10.30am-
12.30pm & 2-6pm Apr-oct) This delightful garden 
contains a wealth of plants and flowers that 
served a variety of purposes for their medieval 
planters: medicinal, nutritional and symbolic.
Musée du Bonbon Haribo MuSeuM
(Candy Museum; www.museeharibo.fr; Pont des 
Charrettes; adult/child €7/4.50; h10am-1pm & 
2-6pm Tue-Sun oct-Jun, daily Jul-Sep) Uzès’ histo-
ry as a centre for confectionery continues at 
this Wonka-esque museum, which explores 
the sweet-making process from the early 20th 
century through to the present day. There’s a 
collection of antique advertising posters and 
vintage confectionery machinery, but inevita-
bly it’s the rainbow-coloured sweet shop that 
takes centre stage. Just remember to brush 
your teeth afterwards, OK?
z Festivals & Events
Foire Aux Truffes FooD FeSTivAl
A full-blown truffle fair, held on the third Sun-
day in January.
Foire à l’Ail FooD FeSTivAl
Uzès positively reeks during its garlic fair on 
24 June.
Nuits Musicales d’Uzès MuSiC FeSTivAl
(www.nuitsmusicalesuzes.org) An international 
festival of baroque music and jazz held during 
the second half of July.
4 Sleeping
Hostellerie Provençale HoTel €€
(%04 66 22 11 06; www.hostellerieprovencale.com; 
1-3 rue de la Grande Bourgade; r €101-186; W) This 
old-style hotel is a trip back in time: the nine 
rooms are a mix of wonky floors, sloping 
ceilings, antique dressers and exposed stone, 
giving the place a bygone-era vibe. They vary 
greatly in size, a fact reflected in the prices. 
The downstairs restaurant, La Parenthèse, 
serves good regional cuisine. Breakfast is 
pricey at €14.
La Maison Rouge B&B €€
(%09 50 25 91 06; www.maison-rouge-uzes.com; 7 
av Maxime Pascal; d €100-130) The Red Houseindeed: built from scarlet brick in 1830 for 
a gentleman-about-town in the centre of old 
Uzès. Despite its vintage trappings (shutters, 
balconies, stone staircase), the house has been 
beautifully modernised, with wood floors, 
walk-in showers and swish furniture. Shutters 
overlook the back-garden pool; on a clear day 
you can see Mont Ventoux.
La Buissonière B&B €€
(%04 66 03 01 71; www.labuissonniere.com; Foussar-
gues; r €140-220) A beauty of a B&B, with a vil-
lage setting in Foussargues, 10km from Uzès, 
and a wonderful 2-hectare garden. The house 
was built by a winemaker in the late 18th cen-
tury, but it’s a delicious mix of old and new: 
rustic stone and flagstones meet gloss-wood 
floors and sleek designer furniture. Some 
rooms have sexy bedroom mezzanines.
5 Eating
Terroirs DeliCATeSSeN, CAFe €
(www.enviedeterroirs.com; 5 place aux Herbes; 
snacks €4-6, platters €10-14; h9am-10.30pm Apr-
Sep, to 6pm oct-Mar) A smart deli-cafe with a 
prime position overlooking the place aux Her-
bes. It sells gourmet goods such as honey, oil, 
pâté and foie gras, and its platters and sand-
wiches are perfect lunch fare.
oLe Tracteur BiSTRo €€
(%04 66 62 17 33; Argilliers; dinner menu €29; 
hnoon-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 7-10pm Fri & Sat) Quirki-
ness and creativity are the watchwords at this 
offbeat, and brilliant, dining destination – part 
wine shop, part art gallery, part grocery, part 
bistro. In a converted warehouse in Argilliers, 
filled with battered furniture and abstract art, 
it’s a cool space for dining on Mediterranean 
dishes. Look out for the namesake tractor out-
side. Argilliers is 10km from Uzès.
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Le Comptoir du 7 BiSTRo €€
(%04 66 22 11 54; 5 bd Charles Gide; h12.30-2pm 
& 7-10pm Tue-Sat) Good modern Mediterrane-
an food, served in a choice of barrel-vaulted 
dining room or a courtyard garden. The food 
is fresh and seasonal, so the menu is dictat-
ed by what arrives at the market – always a 
good sign – and unusually, there’s a choice of 
vegie options.
7 Shopping
Maison de la Truffe FooD
(27 place aux Herbes) It’s truffles with everything 
at the Truffle House: oil, rice, vinegar, meat 
and pâté are all laced with the pricey tuber. 
There’s even a truffle aperitif.
 8 Information
Tourist Office (%04 66 22 68 88; www.uzes- 
tourisme.com; place Albert 1er; h10am-6pm 
Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Sat & Sun) 
 8Getting There & Away
local buses are run by Edgard (www.edgard- 
transport.fr). Destinations include:
Avignon line A15, one hour, five daily Monday to 
Friday, three on weekends; stops at Alès in the 
opposite direction.
Nîmes line e52, one hour, eight to 10 daily Mon-
day to Friday, three or four on weekends
 Alès & Around
POP 41,100
The old industrial town of Alès, 45km from 
Nîmes and 70km from Montpellier, isn’t the 
most attractive town in the Gard départe-
ment, but it has a good reason for its worka-
day appearance: it’s been a major coal-mining 
centre since the 13th century, though the last 
pit closed its shafts back in 1986.
It’s looking a lot brighter since the heavy in-
dustries moved on, but it probably only war-
rants a fleeting stop en route to the Cévennes.
1 Sights & Activities
Mine Témoin MuSeuM
(www.mine-temoin.fr; chemin de la Cité Ste-Marie; 
adult/child €8.70/5.30; h9am-7pm Jul & Aug, 
9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mar–mid-Nov) To get an 
insight into the town’s long coal-mining her-
itage, don a safety helmet and take the cage 
down into the murky tunnels of this disused 
mine, once used to train apprentice colliers. 
The one-hour guided tour explores 700m of 
galleries. The tour and introductory video are 
in French, but an English guidebook is availa-
ble. Above ground, there are various industri-
al relics relating to the coal-extraction process.
Wear something warm, since the tempera-
ture underground never tops 16°C.
Bambouseraie de Prafrance GARDeN
(www.bambouseraie.com; adult/child €9.60/5.60; 
h9.30am-7pm Mar–mid-Nov, to 5pm oct & Nov, 
closed Dec-Feb) It’s over 150 years since the first 
shoots of this rambling, mature bamboo grove 
were planted by a spice merchant returning 
from the tropics. Here in Générargues, 12km 
southwest of Alès, 150 bamboo species sprout 
amid aquatic gardens, a Laotian village and 
a Japanese garden. The Cévennes steam train 
stops here.
Musée du Désert MuSeuM
(www.museedudesert.com; adult/child €5.50/4.50; 
h9.30am-noon & 2-6pm Mar-Nov, 9.30am-6pm Jul 
& Aug) In the village of Le Mas Soubeyran, 
5.5km north of the Bambouseraie, this in-
triguing museum traces the history of the Ca-
misard revolt, a bloody religious struggle that 
raged in the early 1700s between the Catho-
lic armies of Louis XIV and a guerrilla band 
of around 1000 Protestant Huguenots, led by 
the charismatic Roland Laporte. Located in-
side Laporte’s house, the museum details his 
life and times, and contains artifacts such as 
forbidden Huguenot crosses, antique bibles 
and Camisard weapons.
STEAM TRAIN THROUGH THE CÉVENNES
Chugging along a 13km stretch of track between St-Jean du Gard and Anduze, this 
fabulous old steam train, Train à Vapeur des Cévennes (%04 66 60 59 00; www.train 
avapeur.com; adult/child return €15/10; hApr-oct), follows an old line through the Gardon 
Valley, which was in operation between 1909 and 1971. Now restored by enthusiasts, it’s a 
marvellous way to see the scenery, traversing several arched viaducts and subterranean 
tunnels, including the 833m-long Tunnel d’Anduze. The trains also stop at the Bambous-
eraie de Prafrance. The one-way journey lasts 40 minutes; there are three or four trains 
daily depending on the season.
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Sadly, Laporte’s struggle ended in slaugh-
ter; he was executed along with most of his 
followers in 1702, and is still considered a hero 
by many French Protestants.
La Caracole SNAil FARM
(www.lacaracole.fr; St-Florent sur Auzonnet; adult/
child €6/4; h tours 6pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, 3pm 
Sun Jul & Aug, by reservation at other times) Only 
in France could a snail museum do decent 
business. Delving into ‘the astonishing, excit-
ing world of the snail’, this working snail farm 
12km north of Alés has a simple museum de-
voted to the slimy creatures, and runs guided 
tours followed by the obligatory snail-tasting 
session.
4 Sleeping
Mas de Rochebelle B&B €€
(%04 66 30 57 03; www.masderochebelle.fr; 44 
chemin de la Cité Ste-Marie; s/d/tr/f incl breakfast 
€60/80/120/140; s) Near the Mine Témoin, 
this welcoming chambre d’hôte (B&B) in Alès 
was once the mine director’s residence. It has 
five attractive rooms (some with original tiled 
floors) and a large garden, where you can 
wander, swim or simply relax under its mag-
nificent yew tree. Credit cards aren’t accepted.
Hôtel-Restaurant Le Riche HoTel €€
(%04 66 86 00 33; www.leriche.fr; 42 place Pierre 
Sémard; s/d €62/93; aW) A 19th-century 
façade conceals surprisingly modern rooms 
and a refined restaurant (menus €25 to €44), 
where you can dine on classic terroir cuisine 
among stucco, cornicing and potted plants.
 8 Information
Tourist Office (%04 66 52 32 15; www.ville-
ales.fr; place Hôtel de ville; h9am-noon & 
1.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat, plus 9.30am-12.30pm 
Sun Jul & Aug) 
 8Getting There & Away
BUS
Buses leave from the train station.
Edgard (www.edgard-transport.fr) line A15 runs 
to uzès (one hour, five daily Monday to Friday, 
three on weekends)and continues to Avignon 
(1¾ hours).
Voyages Boulet (%04 66 65 19 88; www. 
voyages-boulet.com) Runs one daily bus from 
Alès to Florac (€15.50, 65 minutes) from mid-
April to September.
TRAIN
There are regular trains daily to/from Nîmes 
(€8.50, 40 minutes), where you can catch fast 
TGVs on to Montpellier (€12 to €14.50, 1½ hours).
 Montpellier
POP 257,100
It’s often overlooked in favour of southern 
France’s better-known cities, but in its own 
graceful, easy-going way, Montpellier is every 
bit the equal of Marseille and Nice. With its 
elegant buildings, grand hôtels particuliers 
(private mansions) and stately boulevards, 
it’s a quietly stylish metropolis with a hint 
of Barcelona about its old quarter and shady 
backstreets.
Unlike many southern towns, Montpellier 
has no Roman heritage. Instead it was found-
ed in the 10th century by the counts of Tou-
louse, and later became a prosperous trading 
port as well as a scholarly centre (Europe’s 
first medical school was founded here in the 
12th century).
The population swelled in the 1960s when 
many French settlers left independent Algeria 
and settled here, and it’s now one of southern 
France’s most multicultural cities – and with 
students making up over a third of the pop-
ulation, it’s also a place that seems eternally 
young at heart.
1 Sights
Montpellier’s beating heart is the huge open 
square of place de la Comédie. The city’s finest 
period architecture and hôtel particuliers can 
be found around the old quarter, which lies to 
the northeast, bordered by the main roads of 
bd Henri IV, bd Foch and bd Louis Pasteur.
1 City Centre
oMusée Fabre GAlleRY
(www.museefabre.fr; 39 bd de Bonne Nouvelle; adult/
child €6/4, with Département des Art Décoratifs €7/5, 
1st Sun of month free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) Found-
ed in 1825 by the painter François-Xavier 
Fabre, and totally renovated to the tune of 
€61 million between 2002 and 2007, this land-
mark museum houses one of France’s richest 
collections of European art.
MONTPELLIER CITY CARD
Montpellier City Card (adult per 1/2/3 
days €13.50/19.80/25.20, children half-
price) The Montpellier City Card, sold at 
the tourist office, allows unlimited travel 
on trams and buses, discounts at shops, 
a guided walking tour and free admis-
sion to several museums – with the 
notable exception of the Musée Fabre.
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The galleries are split into three main sec-
tions: Old Masters, Modern Movements and 
Decorative Arts, collectively representing the 
last 600 years of artistic activity in Europe. 
Most of the big names are represented, and 
the renovation has transformed the museum 
into a light, airy and engaging space.
Highlights of the Old Masters include 
three paintings by Rubens, a dreamy Ve-
nus & Adonis by Nicholas Poussin, and a 
collection of works by Jacques-Louis David. 
The Romantic section is strong on French 
artists – particularly Delacroix, Géricault 
and Gustave Courbet – while the modern 
section is somewhat thinner, with Manet, 
Degas and Delaunay the standout names.
Of particular local interest are the works 
of the Marseille-born artist Frédéric Bazille 
(1841–70), a close contemporary of Claude 
Monet, Alfred Sisley, and Édouard Manet. 
The artist has a whole room devoted to him: 
look out for his portrait of Renoir, seated on a 
chair with legs tucked up beneath him, and a 
moody portrait of the artist himself by a very 
young Monet. Tragically, Bazille’s potential 
was never fulfilled; he died aged just 28 in a 
battle of the Franco-Prussian War.
Attached to the museum is L’Hôtel de 
Cabrières-Sabatier d’Espeyran, a lavish 
Montpellier mansion that belonged to the 
local notable, Madame Frédéric Sabatier 
d’Espeyran. The interior of the house is filled 
with incredible ceramics, furniture and objets 
d’art – an evocative reminder of the fabulous 
wealth enjoyed by Montpellier’s elite during 
the late 19th century.
Cathédrale St-Pierre CATHeDRAl
(bd Henri iv) Montpellier’s monumental 
Cathédrale St-Pierre began life as a church 
attached to the 14th-century monastery of 
St-Benoît, and was raised to cathedral status 
in 1536. Heavily rebuilt after the Wars of Reli-
gion, it’s now the seat of the city’s archbishops.
Place Royale du Peyrou eSPlANADe, GARDeN
At the eastern end of this wide, tree-lined es-
planade is the Arc de Triomphe (1692). From 
the Château d’Eau, an elaborate hexagonal 
water tower at its western limit, stretches the 
Aqueduc de St-Clément, spectacularly illu-
minated at night.
Jardin des Plantes GARDeN
(entry on bd Henri iv; hnoon-6pm Tue-Sun) 
North of place Royale du Peyrou is one of 
Montpellier’s hidden gems, the Jardins 
des Plantes – the oldest botanic garden in 
France. Established in 1593, it was used as 
a model for the better-known Jardins des 
Plantes in Paris, laid out nearly 30 years 
later. Along its shady paths you’ll find more 
than 2500 different species, including nine 
varieties of palm, 250 medicinal plants and 
an arboretum of rare trees, as well as a glo-
rious greenhouse dating from 1860.
Musée Languedocien ARCHAeoloGiCAl MuSeuM
(www.musee-languedocien.com; 7 rue Jacques Cœur; 
adult/child €7/free; h3-6pm daily mid-Jun-Aug, 2.30-
5.30pm Mon-Sat other times) This small museum 
houses a collection of archaeological finds 
and objets d’art, ranging from ancient Greek 
and Egyptian statuettes to medieval tapestries 
and 19th-century faience (tin-glazed earthen-
ware). It has a particularly fine collection of 
silverware, made by Montpellier’s renowned 
silversmiths between the 17th and 19th cen-
turies; of special note are a delicate wine cup 
made in 1666 and spice box crafted in 1718.
Musée du Vieux Montpellier MuSeuM
(2 place Pétrarque; admission €3; h10am-1pm & 
2-6pm Tue-Sun) This municipal museum has 
a fairly pedestrian collection of local interest 
pieces, ranging from furniture to tapestries 
and antique weaponry, but it’s worth a visit 
as it’s one of the few hôtels particuliers which 
you can actually see inside. The 18th-century 
room is particularly interesting, as it still 
has its period decor – complete with gilded 
table-clock and a wonderful mother-of-pearl 
cabinet.
1 Outskirts
Montpellier Parc Zoologique Zoo
(www.zoo.montpellier.fr; 50 ave Agropolis; zoo admis-
sion free, Serre Amazonienne €6.50/3; h9.30am-
6.30pm Tue-Sun easter-Sep, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun 
oct-easter) F Four kilometres north of the 
city centre, this excellent zoo – France’s sec-
ond largest, covering 60 hectares – has an 
enormous population of wild residents that 
span the world’s continents, including a rare 
white rhinoceros, three young leopard broth-
ers (called Tao, Tango and Twist) and a family 
of Atlas lions. It’s laid out like a safari park, 
with most of the animals roaming free in 
open enclosures – so be prepared for walking.
Admission to the zoo is free, but there’s a 
charge for the Serre Amazonienne, a gigan-
tic tropical greenhouse which replicates the 
humid world of the Amazon rainforest, com-
plete with piranhas, alligators and reptiles.
Take tram 1 to the St-Eloi stop, from where 
you can either walk to the zoo or catch a free 
shuttle bus (labelled ‘La Navette’).
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Aquarium Mare Nostrum AQuARiuM
(www.aquariummarenostrum.fr; adult/child 
€15.50/10.50; h10am-8pm Jul & Aug, to 7pm Sep-
Jun) Part of the Odysseum shopping centre, 
this aquarium recreates15 different aquatic 
environments, from polar waters to tropical 
forests. Some of the tanks are really imagi-
native – there’s an Ocean Balcony where you 
stare down over submarine cliffs patrolled by 
sharks and rays, and a huge Amphitheatre, 
the largest covered tank in France with 1.8m 
litres of seawater. Kids will also love the inter-
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active actions, such as a simulated cargo ship 
battling through stormy seas.
To get there, catch tram 1 to the Odysseum 
station ‘Place de France’.
z Festivals & Events
Printemps des Comédiens ART FeSTivAl
(www.printempsdescomediens.com) A music, 
dance and theatre festival in June.
Montpellier Danse DANCe FeSTivAl
(www.montpellierdanse.com) A two-week interna-
tional dance festival in June or July.
Festival de Radio France et 
Montpellier MuSiC FeSTivAl
(www.festivalradiofrancemontpellier.com) Top-
notch classical music and opera, plus a par-
allel program of free concerts of all musical 
genres. Held the second half of July.
4 Sleeping
Auberge de Jeunesse HoSTel €
(%04 67 60 32 22; montpellier@fuaj.org; 2 impasse 
de la Petite Corraterie; dm incl breakfast €21.50; W) 
Montpellier’s HI-affiliated hostel isn’t the nic-
est you’ll find in France, but it’s a passable 
place to sleep on the cheap. It feels very insti-
tutional, with spartan dorms and bare decor, 
but there’s a lounge downstairs with table 
football and pool, and a small garden. Take 
the tram to the Louis Blanc stop.
Hôtel de la Comédie HoTel €
(%04 67 58 43 64; www.hotel-montpellier-comedie.
com; 1bis rue Baudin; s/d €50/70; aW) What you 
lose in luxury here you more than make up for 
in location: the lively and central place de la 
Comédie is a matter of seconds away. Rooms 
are pretty basic but comfy enough, with crim-
son bedspreads and double glazing to keep 
out street noise, and breakfast is served in a 
smart salon next to reception. There’s a lift, 
but no car access.
Hôtel des Arceaux HoTel €
(%04 67 92 03 03; www.hoteldesarceaux.com; 33-
35 bd des Arceaux; s €54-65, d €65-70; aW) This 
rambling townhouse in a residential quarter 
of Montpellier, 10 minutes from the centre, 
has pros and cons. The case for: period archi-
tecture, cosy decor, friendly owners, delightful 
garden. The cons: no lift, rather dated rooms 
and occasional street noise. The upshot: de-
cent value if you’re not too fussy.
Les 4 Étoiles B&B €€
(%04 67 02 47 69; www.les4etoiles.com; 3 rue Del-
mas; s €72-108, d €94-135) You really couldn’t 
ask for a better city base than this – a 1930s 
family house that’s been converted into a con-
temporary B&B, with four rooms named after 
constellations, all individually styled by a local 
interior designer. They share the same clean-
lined character: sharp furniture, flat-screen 
Montpellier 
æ Top Sights 16 Halles Castellane .....................................B3 
 1 Musée Fabre............................................ D2 17 Halles Laissac ..........................................B5 
 18 Le Grillardin .............................................. C1 
æ Sights 19 Le Petit Jardin ..........................................A2 
 2 Arc de Triomphe ..................................... A3 20 Les Bains de Montpellier ........................C5 
 3 Cathédrale St-Pierre ............................... A1 21 Les Vignes ................................................B2 
 4 Hôtel de la Vieille Intendance ................ B2 L'Heure Bleue ................................ (see 10) 
 5 Hôtel de Varennes .................................. C3 22 MesdamesMessieurs .............................C2 
 Hôtel des Trésoriers de 23 Saveurs et Sens.......................................B5 
 France.............................................(see 8) 24 Tripti Kulai ................................................C3 
 6 Hôtel St-Côme ........................................ C4 
 7 Jardin des Plantes ................................... A1 û Drinking & Nightlife 
 Musée du Vieux Montpellier ...........(see 5) 25 Barberousse.............................................D4 
 8 Musée Languedocien ............................. C4 26 Beehive .....................................................B4 
 27 Chez Boris ................................................C3 
ÿ Sleeping 28 In Vino Veritas..........................................C5 
 9 Auberge de Jeunesse..............................C1 29 La Chistera ...............................................C5 
 10 Baudon de Mauny................................... C2 30 La Fabrik ...................................................D4 
 11 Hôtel de la Comédie ............................... D4 31 Le Café de la Mer.....................................C2 
 12 Hôtel du Palais ........................................ A2 
 13 Hôtel Le Guilhem .................................... A2 ý Entertainment 
 32 Le Corum..................................................D2 
ú Eating 33 Opéra-Comédie .......................................C4 
 14 Coffee Club .............................................. B3 34 Rockstore .................................................D5 
 15 Food Market ............................................ C4 
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TVs, retro design pieces and gorgeous tiled 
floors. It’s 1km east from bd Henri IV.
Hôtel du Parc HoTel €€
(%04 67 41 16 49; www.hotelduparc-montpellier.
com; 8 rue Achille-Bégé; s €52-89, d €59-108, tr €118; 
aW) It’s a 500m walk from the old quarter, 
and this charming 18th-century hôtel partic-
ulier is the place if you’re after peace and tran-
quillity. Set around its own private garden, it 
has 19 regal rooms, accessed via plush carpet-
ed corridors and a sweeping central staircase. 
There’s plenty of parking inside the house’s 
gates, too. Head north from place Albert 1er 
along av Faubourg Boutonnet.
Smart Living SelF-CoNTAiNeD €€
(%06 76 20 84 70; www.smartliving.fr; apt per night 
€85-140) For extended stays, Smart Living of-
fers self-catering apartments around the city. 
They vary in style and location, from the slate-
floored VIP apartment, which has a private 
wood-deck patio, to Gambetta, set around its 
own city garden. All come with kitchen, wash-
ing machine and wi-fi, and some have park-
ing. There’s usually a two-night minimum; 
some are only available weekly.
Mon Jardin en Ville B&B €€
(%04 67 64 00 35; www.monjardinenville.com; 23 av 
de Palavas; s €120-140, d €140-160, tr €195; Ws) 
This pamper pad is a trek from the city cen-
tre, but the emphasis is on luxury rather than 
location. The three rooms are glossy-mag-
azine standard: Tulipe Noire is minimalist 
and monochrome, Orchidée Papillon features 
blonde wood and neutral tones, and Fleur de 
Lune has a split-level mezzanine with a mini- 
office and extra beds. The wooded garden 
and pool are absolutely gorgeous, too. It’s 1km 
southeast of the train station.
Hôtel du Palais HoTel €€
(%04 67 60 47 38; www.hoteldupalais-montpellier.
fr; 3 rue du Palais des Guilhem; s €74, d €82-97; W) 
Old-fashioned certainly, but this homely ho-
tel offers a flavour of a bygone era, with its 
peach-coloured rooms, wrought-iron balco-
nies and window boxes. The setting on a quiet 
square is delightful; try to get a front-facing 
room if you can. The nearest car parks are on 
rue Foch and rue Pitot.
oBaudon de Mauny B&B €€€
(%04 67 02 21 77; www.baudondemauny.com; 1 rue 
de la Carbonnerie; €170-280; hreception 4-10pm; 
W) Halfway between a palatial B&B and a 
boutique hotel, this 18th-century house has 
been given the full designer overhaul: origi-
nal fireplaces, oak doors and sash windows 
sit alongside modern furniture, angle-poise 
lamps and butterfly wallpaper, but the 
stripped-back style might be a bit too austere 
for some. The most convenient parking is at 
Parking du Corum, 500m northeast.
Hôtel Le Guilhem HoTel €€€
(%04 67 52 90 90; www.hotel-le-guilhem.com; 18 
rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau; r €84-204; aiW) 
Occupying two interconnected 16th-century 
mansions on a narrow backstreet, this Best 
Western–owned hotel has rooms split across 
three ‘comfort’ categories. They’re a bit of a 
mixed-bag – some are small with heritage fur-
niture, others more spacious with views over 
HÔTELS PARTICULIERS IN MONTPELLIER
During the 17th and 18th centuries, Montpellier’s rich merchants built themselves grand 
hôtels particuliers (private mansions) to show off their power and prodigious wealth. The 
most important houses are marked by a descriptive plaque in French; you can pick up a 
map in the tourist office. Though the exteriors are often quite restrained, inside many of 
the houses have fabulous inner courtyards (mostly, alas, closed to the public).
Among the most notable are the Hôtel de Varennes (2 place Pétrarque), just off place 
Pétrarque, a mix of medieval and Renaissance architecture, which now contains the Musée 
du Vieux Montpellier.
A short walk south on rue Jacques Coeur is the 17th-century Hôtel des Trésoriers de 
France (7 rue Jacques Cœur), home to the Musée Languedocien.
Just west is the Hôtel St-Côme (Grand Rue Jean Moulin), a suitably grand building for 
the city’s Chamber of Commerce.
Further west near the Cathédrale St-Pierre is the early 17th-century Hôtel de la Vieille 
Intendance (rue de la vieille intendance), built during the reign of Louis XIII for the queen 
mother and his niece Marie Louise d’Orléans (coloquially known as ‘La Grande Made-
moiselle’). The house was later occupied occupied by the city’s intendant (governor), the 
philosopher Auguste Comte and the Sète-born poet Paul Valéry.
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the private garden. The nearest parking is at 
Parking Peyrou.
5 Eating
You’ll find plenty of cheap and cheerful eat-
eries on rue de l’Université, rue des Écoles 
Laïques and the surrounding streets.
Tripti Kulai veGeTARiAN €
(%04 67 66 30 51; 20 rue Jacques Cœur; mains €4-8, 
menus €11-16; hnoon-9.30pm Mon-Sat; v) Ideal 
for lunch, this organic-veggie cafe majors on 
quiches, salads and gratinées, and the fresh 
fruit juices are great. It also has a wholefood 
shop at 22 rue Bernard Délicieux and a take- 
away cafe at 3 rue Massillian.
L’Heure Bleue CAFe €
(1 rue de la Carbonnerie; cakes €3-5; h9am-5pm 
Tue-Sat) Scrumptious patisseries and fine teas 
served in china teapots are on offer at this 
cute cafe.
Coffee Club CAFe €
(%07 86 17 81 56; www.coffeeclub.fr; 12 rue St-Guil-
hem; lunch menu €7.90; h9am-7pm Tue-Fri, 11am-
5pm Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) Montpellier’s very own 
urban espresso bar, brewing up excellent 
espressos and fluffy flat whites, as well as a 
decent lunch menu of sandwiches, salads and 
delicious cakes.
Les Bains de Montpellier SeAFooD €€
(%04 67 60 70 87; www.les-bains-de-montpellier.
com; 6 rue Richelieu; mains €20-30; hnoon-2.30pm 
& 7-10pm Mon-Sat) Once a public bathhouse 
where people underwent their daily ablutions, 
this is now a hugely attractive restaurant 
that’s especially strong on seafood and Italian- 
influenced dishes. Tables are setaround the 
old perimeter bathrooms, with plush purple 
chairs and overhead chandeliers, but the best 
are in the interior courtyard, surrounded by 
ponds and palms.
oSaveurs et Sens BiSTRo €€
(%04 99 61 62 04; www.saveursetsens.fr; angle 
rue de la Fontaine et rue Cabanel; 2-/3-course menu 
€24.90/29.90, à la carte mains €18.50; hnoon-2pm 
& 7-9pm Tue-Sat, Sun by reservation) One of the 
hot local tips in town, a teeny backstreet cor-
ner bistro run with finesse by young owners 
Anthony and Angélique. It’s passionate about 
market-fresh fish and locally sourced food; 
flavours blend classic French and modern 
Mediterranean, with quirky touches such as 
slate plates and arty slashes of sauce. The din-
ing room is tiny, so bookings are essential – 
especially since it’s become so popular.
Le Grillardin MeDiTeRRANeAN €€
(%04 67 66 24 33; www.restaurantlegrillardin.com; 3 
place de la Chapelle Neuve; weekday lunch menu €19, 
mains €17-23; h12.30-2.30pm Wed-Fri, 7.30-9.30pm 
Tue-Sun) One of a pocket of attractive bistros 
in the shady place de la Chapelle Neuve, serv-
ing zingy Mediterranean cuisine laced with 
copious amounts of peppers, aubergines, to-
matoes, parmesan and basil. Book ahead, es-
pecially if you want a table on the square, as 
it’s very popular with local diners.
Le Bistrot de Bacchus BiSTRo €€
(%09 50 08 00 54; www.bistrot-bacchus.com; 8 
rue Marioge; mains €15-20; hnoon-2.30pm Mon, 
Tue & Thu-Sat, 7-10.30pm Mon & Thu-Sat) There’s 
no menu at this fine little ‘bistronomique’ 
diner in the rather rough-and-ready Arceaux 
district – just a blackboard chalked up with 
different dishes on the day depending on the 
chef’s whims. Expect hearty country cooking, 
such as poule au pot (pot-boiled chicken), 
chunky beefsteak with thick-cut chips, and 
creamy lobster. Worth the walk.
Mesdames Messieurs MoDeRN FReNCH €€
(%04 67 63 49 53; www.mesdamesmessieurs.com; 5 
rue de Girone; tapas platter €13-19, 2-/3-course menu 
€21/29; h11am-3pm Sun, 7-10pm Tue-Sat; v) A 
place of two halves: half wine-bar, half-bistro, 
recommended for its platters of charcuterie, 
cheese and smoked trout accompanied by lots 
of wines by the glass. It’s especially good for 
Sunday brunch, a serve-yourself buffet of deli-
cious salads, tapenades and quiches.
Les Vignes MoDeRN FReNCH €€€
(%04 67 60 48 42; www.lesvignesrestaurant.com; 
2 rue Bonnier d’Alco; menus lunch €15-23, dinner 
€29-29; hnoon-1.30pm Mon-Sat, 7.45-9.30pm Thu-
Sat) Thierry Germain is passionate about two 
things: local produce and Provençal cooking, 
and both come to the fore at his smart restau-
rant in central Montpellier. Cévennes lamb, 
Mediterranean seafood and bull meat from 
the Camargue are just some of the ingredients 
you might find on the menu. The interior is 
suitably chic – white tablecloths, table lamps, 
Provençal colours – but the little terrace is the 
place on a warm summer’s night.
Le Petit Jardin FuSioN €€€
(%04 67 60 78 78; www.petit-jardin.com; 20 rue 
Jean-Jacques Rousseau; mains bistro €12-16, restau-
rant €30-42; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat, 
restaurant open Mon evening) Without doubt, 
the ‘Little Garden’ has one of the city’s most 
romantic dining settings – a charmingly 
green secret garden, hidden away behind the 
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amber façade of a typical townhouse in the 
old quarter. You can choose to dine in either 
the relaxed bistro or the more formal restau-
rant, depending on your taste: either way, 
the food is fresh, seasonal and very French.
oJardin des Sens GASTRoNoMiC €€€
(%04 99 58 38 38; www.jardindessens.com; 11 av 
St-lazare; weekday lunch menu €49, dinner mains 
€48-90; hnoon-2.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri, 7-10pm Mon-
Sat) Loosen that belt buckle: the Jardins des 
Sens has acquired a mythical status among 
French foodies. Twice Michelin-starred, it’s 
run by brothers Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, 
whose passion for contemporary art is mir-
rored in their choice of decor and their food, 
with culinary creations that are as much 
sculptural as gastronomical. It’s about 1km 
north of bd Louis Blanc along av de Nîmes.
Self-Catering
Montpellier has lots of markets, including 
traditional food markets on place de la 
Comédie (h7am-1.30pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri & 
Sat) and place Albert 1er (h7am-1pm Wed, Fri 
& Sat), and a farmers market (av Samuel Cham-
plain; h8am-1pm Sun) in the Antigone quarter.
Ask at the tourist office about regular book 
fairs, flea markets and flower markets.
Halles Castellane FooD MARkeT
(rue de la loge; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun) 
The city’s main covered market, stocked to 
the rafters with local goodies. There are lots of 
Languedoc wines on offer, as well as copious 
fish and shellfish from the ports at Sète and 
Agde.
Halles Laissac FooD MARkeT
(rue Anatole France; h7am-1.30pm) Montpellier’s 
second-largest covered market. It’s due to be 
demolished in early 2015, and replaced by a 
futuristic new one, which should open in early 
2017.
6 Drinking & Nightlife
With nearly 80,000 students, Montpellier 
has a multitude of places to drink and dance. 
You’ll find dense concentrations around rue 
En-Gondeau, off Grand-Rue Jean Moulin, 
around place Jean Jaurès and around the in-
tersection of rue de l’Université and rue de la 
Candolle.
For events and gig listings, pick up the 
weekly free sheet Sortir à Montpellier. The 
city’s big clubs are around Espace Latipolia, 
10km out of town on route de Palavas.
Chez Boris WiNe BAR
(%04 67 02 13 22; www.chezboris.com; 20 rue de 
l’Aiguillerie; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm) Boris 
Leclercq’s wine-bar has proved popular: he’s 
now got two outlets in town (this one and 
another at 17 bd Sarrail), as well as a new 
Parisian cousin. It’s all relaxed and friendly, 
with wines served by the glass, accompanied 
by plates of Iberico ham and Aubrac beef if 
you’re peckish. Check out previous guests’ 
comments on the ceiling.
In Vino Veritas WiNe BAR
(16 rue Diderot; h7pm-midnight) Chandeliers and 
red-velvet seats create a boudoir vibe here, an 
ideal setting for sampling Languedoc vintages 
either by the glass or the bottle.
La Chistera PuB
(%04 67 55 39 51; 2bis rue d’obilion; h10am-1pm 
Mon-Sat) This lively pub is owned by rugby star 
François Trinh-Duc, a local-born hero who 
still plays for his home team. There’s a huge 
list of beers, domestic and foreign, served 
among neon lights and brick walls. As you 
might expect, it’s a good place to watch big-
screen sport.
La Fabrik BAR
(%04 67 58 62 11; 12 rue Boussairolles; h6pm-1am 
Tue-Sat) Rough-and-ready backstreet bar, with 
industrial decor, Belgian beers and regular gig 
line-ups.
Beehive PuB
(15 rue du Plain d’Age; hnoon-1am) Brit-themed 
pub with a French twist and a young crowd.
Barberousse BAR
(%04 67 58 03 66; 6 rue Boussairolles; h6am-1pm) 
Ahoy, me hearties – down vintage rums and 
rum-based cocktails at this pirate-themed bar, 
complete with ships’ lanterns and upturned 
barrels.
Le Café de la Mer GAY BAR
(5 place du Marché aux Fleurs; h8am-1pm Mon-Sat) 
One of the city’s oldest gay bars. Ask at the bar 
for a free map of where else is hot (or not).
3 Entertainment
Rockstore live MuSiC
(%04 67 06 80 00; www.rockstore.fr; 20 rue de 
verdun) You can’t miss this long-standing 
venue – just look out for the tail-fins of the 
’70s Cadillac jutting out above the entrance. 
It’s one of the city’s best places for live gigs.
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