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Mission Furniture
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MAIL-DIRECT PRE-PRINTED WOODWORKING PLANS
®
Page 1 of 11
Our IDEA SHOPTM workbench may be the design for which you’ve
waited for years. It’s simple to build and super strong. We relied
on inexpensive lumberyard stock and rugged mortise-and-tenon
joinery to construct the base. For the benchtop, we laminated
maple to handle a lifetime of workshop activity. And we added
bench dogs and a bench vise to expand the usefulness of our
workbench, making it a fitting centerpiece for any home workshop. 
W A WORKHORSE OF A
ORKBENCH
MD-00134 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2001
 MD-Workbench DPC 6/14/01 3:17 PM Page 1
DP-
http://www.woodonline.com
DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS
®
Pith Cut parts from straight grain.
Joint edges to remove rounded corners.
2 x 10 x 12'
For even drying,
place strips of wood
underneath stock to
allow air to pass
freely around board.
Design Notes
To keep costs down on this
project, we hand picked
straight-grained pine 2×10s
for the workbench base at a
local lumberyard. In addition,
we checked each 2×10 for
twist and bow, and chose the
straightest and driest pieces
available. (If you have a mois-
ture meter, take it with you
when you shop.)
After getting the stock back
to the WOODmagazine shop,
we stickered the boards, and
let them acclimate to our
indoor environment for sev-
eral weeks before cutting the
parts (A, B, C, D) from along
the edges, where shown in
the sketch below. This
allowed us to use the straight-
est grain possible and
achieve the best results.
Let’s build the 
super-sturdy legs first
1 From 1fi"-thick, straight-grained
pine, rip and crosscut eight pieces
3‹" wide by 33‹" long for the leg
blanks. Plane the edges of the
stock before ripping it to finished
width to remove the rounded cor-
ners. (See the box at left for our
method of obtaining straight-
grained pieces from common lum-
beryard 2×10 stock.)
2 Cut a 3" dado fi" deep 18‡"
from the bottom end of each leg
blank, where shown on the
Mortise detail accompanying the
End-Frame Assembly drawing
on page 3.
3 Cut a 1×3×6" spacer to tem-
porarily fit in the mating dadoes of
two leg blanks, where shown on
the Laminating the Legs drawing
on page 3. With the spacer
between the pair of dadoes and
the edges of the leg blanks flush,
glue and clamp the pieces togeth-
er. Then, remove the spacer
before the glue dries. (We used
pieces of scrapwood stock
TM
Page 2 of 11
Design Editor
between the clamp jaws and legs
to prevent the metal jaws from
denting the softwood.) Repeat the
clamping process for each leg.
4 Remove the clamps, scrape the
glue from one edge, and plane ¤"
from the scraped edge to get it
flat. Rip the opposite edge for a
3„" width. Next, plane „" from
the cut edge to remove the saw
marks and to obtain the 3" fin-
ished width. Repeat for each leg.
Now, add the feet and rails
for a wobble-free base
1 For the feet (B) and the rails (C),
(See the End-Frame Assembly
drawing on page 3 and the Parts
View drawings on page 11.)
Follow the same method
described to form the legs (A).
Cut the pieces oversized in width,
cut the dadoes, glue the pieces
together with the dadoes and
edges of the boards aligned, and
trim to finished width.
2 Clamp the two feet (B) bottom
edge to bottom edge. Mark a cen-
terpoint 3‹" from each end of the
The purchase of these plans does
not transfer any copyright or other
ownership interest in the plans, the
design, or the finished project to the
buyer. Buyer may neither reproduce
the plans for sale nor offer for sale
any copies of the finished project.
 MD-Workbench DPC 6/14/01 3:17 PM Page 2
A
LAMINATING THE LEGS
Remove spacer after leg blanks
have been glued and clamped together.
Edges flush
Clamp pad
Cut spacer
to temporarily fit
inside dadoes to align
pieces when clamping.
TENON
DETAIL11/2"
11/2"
11/2"
3/4"
3/4"
1/2"
1"
1"
31/4"
31/4"
11/2"
181/2"
11/2"
283/4"
183/4"
3"
3"
3"
3"
3"11/2"
181/2"
11/2"
4"
END-FRAME
ASSEMBLY
MORTISE
DETAIL
Cut dadoes
before
laminating
parts
together.
3" for part
 ,11/2" for
parts
and
1/2" for
part
3/4" for
parts
and
A
A
B
B
B
A
A
C
C
C
183/4"
3/4"
11/2"
3/4"
TM
Page 3 of 11
 MD-Workbench DPC 6/14/01 3:17 PM Page 3
TM
Page 4 of 11
clamped-together feet. Now, use a
compass to mark a fi" hole (‹"
radius) at each centerpoint. Draw
straight lines to connect the edges
of each circle, where shown in
photo A below.
3 Mark a 45° cutline across the
end of each leg, where shown on
the Parts View drawing on page
11. Do the same thing to the end
of the rails, where shown on the
End-Frame Assembly drawing on
page 3.
4 As shown in photo A, drill a
fi" hole at each marked center-
point. Remove the clamps, and
bandsaw between the holes along
the inside edge of the marked
line. Sand to the line to remove
saw marks.
5 Using the dimensions on the
End-Frame Assembly and Parts
Clamp the feet together, and drill a fi" hole at the
marked centerpoints to form the radiused bottoms.
Tap the hardwood wedges into the notches. After
the glue dries, trim the wedges flush with the legs.
A B
View drawings, miter-cut (we
used a bandsaw) both ends of
each foot (B) and both ends of
each rail (C). Sand smooth.
6 Drill a trio of ›" holes in each
rail (C), where shown on the Parts
View drawing.
Next, let’s assemble the base
1 Mount an auxiliary wood fence
to your miter gauge and a dado
blade to your tablesaw. Cut
tenons to the sizes shown on the
End-Frame Assembly drawing and
accompanying Tenon detail on
page 3.
2 Glue and clamp each end frame
together, checking for square.
3 Route ‹" chamfers along the
edges ofthe end frames, where
shown on the Exploded View
drawing on page 8.
4 Cut the stretchers (D) to size.
Cut a 3"-long tenon at each end of
each stretcher to fit snugly
through the leg mortises.
5 Route a ‹" chamfer along the
edges of the stretchers between
the tenons.
6 Using the Tenon detail accom-
panying the Exploded View draw-
ing, bandsaw a pair of V-shaped
notches in each tenon.
7 Cut eight wedges (E) to the size
shown on the Parts View drawing.
(For contrast against the light
pine, use a dark-colored hard-
wood for the wedges; we choose
genuine mahogany.)
8 Glue and clamp the stretchers in
place between the end frame assem-
blies. Inject a bit of glue in each notch,
and using a mallet, tap the wedges into
the notches, and check for square.
 MD-Workbench DPC 6/14/01 3:17 PM Page 4
5/8" holes 1/2" hole
11/2" hole
3/4" deep
F
F F
F
F
1/2" nut
1/2" flat
washer
1/2" all-thread rod
271/4" long
5/8" holes centered
from top to bottom
10"
10"
20"
20"
20"
20"
10"
10"
1/2" nut
11/2" hole 3/4" deep with
a 1/2" hole centered inside
11/8"
11/8"
60"
1/2" flat
washer
BENCHTOP
ASSEMBLY F
F
SECTION
VIEW DETAIL
F
TM
9 Being careful not to mar the sur-
face of the leg, trim the wedges
flush, as shown in photo B.
Bui ld a top that
can take a pounding
Note: You either can laminate
your own maple top as described
below or substitute a solid-core
door from a local lumberyard or
home center. Ask to find out if
the company has any doors that
customers have rejected because of
mistakes in staining or cutting.
You can purchase these for a frac-
tion of their retail cost. Avoid doors
rejected because of warpage.
1 Cut 28 pieces of 1„"-thick
maple (F) to 2‹×61" for the lami-
nated top. For reference when
drilling and laminating later, mark
an X on the best (defect-free) edge
(not face) of each strip.
2 Using the Benchtop Assembly
drawing below for reference, con-
struct and attach a long fence to
your drill press to ensure consis-
tently spaced holes. Add a support
to each end. Mark the reference
marks on the fence, where shown
on the drawing.
3 With the marked edge facing
out, align the ends with the refer-
ence marks on the fence, and drill
three fl" holes in 24 of the 28
benchtop pieces (F).
4 Still using the fence and your
marks, drill three 1fi" holes ‡"
deep with a fi" hole centered
inside each 1fi" hole in two of the
remaining four pieces.
5 Glue and clamp eight of the
predrilled pieces (F, G) face-to-
face, with the edges and ends
flush, the fl" holes aligned, and
the Xs facing up. Next, glue and
clamp two nine-piece sections
together in the same manner.
Each of the nine-piece sections
should have a strip with the
1fi" holes on the outside edge.
See the Benchtop Assembly
drawing below for reference.
(We found it easier to lami-
nate three sections, then glue
and clamp the three sections
together to form the top.) You
should still have two maple
strips (F) with no holes in them.
6 Using a hacksaw, cut three
pieces of fi"-diameter all-thread
rod to 27‹" long.
Page 5 of 11
 MD-Workbench DPC 6/14/01 3:17 PM Page 5
F 61" rough length
Reference line for
last hole
3/4 x 8 x 80"
plywood
101/2"
101/2"
20"
11/8"
Centerline of drill bit
Reference line for
first hole
Reference line for
middle hole
11/2 x 3 x 80"
Fence Reference
mark
DRILL-GUIDE
FENCE
1 x 2 nailed to
end for support
TM
7 Spread glue on the mating edges,
and clamp the three sections edge-
to-edge, using pipe clamps and the
all-thread rod with nuts and flat
washers attached. Check that the
surfaces are flush. (We used a
ratchet to tighten the fi" nuts on
the all-thread rod.) Alternate back
and forth between the clamps and
the nuts on the threaded rods for
even clamping pressure.
8 Glue the remaining two top
pieces (F) to the edges of the top
assembly to hide the holes and
threaded rods.
9 Scrape off the excess glue, then
belt-sand both surfaces of the
benchtop flat.
10 Fit your portable circular
saw with a carbide-tipped blade.
Clamp a straightedge to the
benchtop, and trim fi" off one
end of the benchtop. Repeat at
the other end.
Finishing up
1 Finish-sand the base and top.
2 Center the benchtop assembly
on the base. Clamp the top to the
base. Using the previously drilled
holes in the rails (C) as guides,
drill six ‰" pilot holes 1" deep
into the bottom side of the bench-
top assembly. The holes in the rail
are slightly oversized to allow the
lag screws to move with the
expansion and contraction of the
benchtop. Using ‹" lag screws
and flat washers, fasten the base
to the top.
3 Add the finish to all surfaces.
(We applied three coats of Watco
Natural Danish Oil Finish.)
4 Drill the mounting holes, and
add a vise using the instructions
provided with the vise. (See the
Buying Guide for our source.)
5 Mark and drill ‡" dog holes
through the benchtop, where
shown on the Dog Hole Layout
drawing on page 7.
6 If you use the same type of
round bench dogs we did, mark
the layout for the dog holder (G)
on a piece of 1„" maple. Mark
the centerpoints for the dogs and
the mounting screws. Bore the holes
for the dogs, and then cut the dog
holder to shape. Next, drill the
mounting holes, sand smooth, and
apply the finish. Finally, screw the
dog holder to the leg nearest the vise.
Buying Guide
Woodworker’s Vise. Cast-iron
jaws, predrilled mounting holes,
34 lbs., with retractable "dog,"
catalog no. 9GT51785. Available
at or order through Sears stores
nationwide.
Round bench dogs. Solid brass,
with wire springs allowing for
height adjustment. Catalog no.
911-194. Woodworker’s Supply,
Inc., 5604 Alameda Place NE,
Albuquerque, NM 87113. Or call
800/645-9292 to order.¿
Page 6 of 11
 MD-Workbench DPC 6/14/01 3:17 PM Page 6
7 Spread glue on the mating edges, 
and clamp the three sections edge-
to-edge, using pipe clamps and the 
all-thread rod with nuts and flat 
washers attached. Check that the 
surfaces are flush. (We used a ratch-
et to tighten the fi" nuts on the 
all-thread rod.) Alternate back and 
forth between the clamps and the 
nuts on the threaded rods for even 
clamping pressure.
8 Glue the remaining two top 
pieces (F) to the edges of the top 
assembly to hide the holes and 
threaded rods.
9 Scrape off the excess glue, then 
belt-sand both surfaces of the 
benchtop flat.
10 Fit your portable circular 
saw with a carbide-tipped blade. 
Clamp a straightedge to the 
benchtop, and trim fi" off one 
end of the benchtop. Repeat at 
the other end.
Finishing up
1 Finish-sand the base and top.
2 Center the benchtop assembly 
on the base. Clamp the top to the 
base. Using the previously drilled 
holes in the rails (C) as guides, drill 
six ‰" pilot holes 1" deep into the 
bottom side of the benchtop assem-
bly. The holes in the rail are slightly 
oversized to allow the lag screws to 
move with the expansion and con-
traction of the benchtop. Using ‹" 
lag screws and flat washers, fasten 
the base to the top.
3 Add the finish to all surfaces. 
(We applied three coats of Watco 
Natural Danish Oil Finish.)
4 Drill the mounting holes, and add 
a vise using the instructions pro-
vided with the vise. 
5 Mark and drill ‡" dog holes 
through the benchtop, where 
shown on the Dog Hole Layout 
drawing on page 7.
6 If you use the same type of round 
bench dogs we did, mark the layout 
for the dog holder (G) on a piece of 
1„" maple. Mark the centerpoints 
for the dogs and the mounting screws. 
Bore the holes for the dogs, and then 
cut the dog holder to shape. Next, drill 
the mounting holes, sand smooth, and 
apply the finish. Finally, screw the dog 
holder to the leg nearest the vise.
Buying Guide
Round bench dogs. Solid brass, with 
wire springs allowing for height 
adjustment. Catalog no. 911-194. 
Woodworker’s Supply, Inc., 5604 
Alameda Place NE, Albuquerque, NM 
87113. Or call 800/645-9292 to 
order.¿
TM
13/4"
11/8"
3/4"
3/4"
25/8"
7/8"
R=1/4"
3/8"
3/8" hole 1/4" deep
with 5/32" hole
centered inside
#8 x 3" drywall screw
G
DOG HOLDERDOG HOLDER
3/4" holes
33/4" 7" 7"
293/4"
7" 5"
Visecenterline
Vise
DOG HOLE
LAYOUT
Page 7 of 11
 MD-Workbench DPC 6/14/01 3:17 PM Page 7
TM
B
DA
A A
A
B
60"
293/4"
331/2"
38"
1/4" chamfers
1/4" chamfers
1/4" flat washer
1/4 x 21/2" lag screw
F
Center benchtop over base.
Drill 3/16" pilot holes
1" deep on bottom
of bench to mate
with lag screws.
Do not chamfer
top edges.
C
G
8"
C
E
E
EXPLODED VIEW
D
D
1/4"
1/4"
1/4"
1/2"
1/2"
23/4"
11/2"
31/2"
1/4"
3"
TENON
DETAIL
Page 8 of 11
 MD-Workbench DPC 6/14/01 3:17 PM Page 8
TM
CUTTING DIAGRAM
2 x 10 x 12' Pine or Fir
D
B B
11/16 x 91/4 x 72" Maple (7 pieces)
GF
2 x 10 x 8' Pine or Fir
C
2 x 10 x 12' Pine or Fir
A A
Page 9 of 11
 MD-Workbench DPC 6/14/01 3:17 PM Page 9
TM
Part
Bill of Materials
M
at
l.
Q
ty
.
T W L
Finished Size
A* legs 3" 3" 331/4" LP 4
B* feet 3" 31/4" 291/2" LP 2
C* rails 3" 11/2" 28" LP 2
D stretchers 11/2" 31/2" 44" P 2
E* wedges 3/8" 1" 31/4" DH 8
F* top pieces 11/16" 21/4'' 60'' M 28
G dog holder 11/16'' 13/4'' 25/8'' M 1
*Initially cut parts marked with * oversized in
width. Trim to finished size according to the how-
to instructions.
Materials Key: LP–laminated pine, P–pine,
DH–dark hardwood, M–maple.
Supplies: 3–1/2'' all-thread rods 271/4'' long, 6–1/2''
nuts, 6–1/2'' flat washers, 6–1/4x21/2'' lag screws,
1/4'' flat washers, clear finish.
Page 10 of 11
 MD-Workbench DPC 6/14/01 3:17 PM Page 10
PARTS VIEW
B
31/4"
291/4"
31/4" R=1/4" R=1/4"
23/4"3"
45o FOOT
SIDE VIEW
1/4"
23/4"
121/2" 121/2" 11/2"
11/2"
11/2"
11/2"
28"
3/8" holes
3/8" hole
RAIL
TOP VIEW
C
TM
E
WEDGE
FULL-SIZE PATTERN
3/8"
1/16"
31/4"
Produced by Marlen Kemmet
Project Design: James R. Downing
Illustrations: Kim Downing
Graphic Design: Lorna Johnson
Photographs: Wm. Hopkins
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2001
1”
‹”
fi”
‡”
To ensure full-size patterns are correct
size, your printer should be set to print
at 100% (not fit to page). Measure
full-size patterns to verify size.
Page 11 of 11
 MD-Workbench DPC 6/14/01 3:17 PM Page 11
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http://www.woodmagazine.com/videos/video-index
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http://toolreviews.woodmagazine.com/