[Outdoor Adventures Series] Wilderness Education Association, Timothy Kidd, Jennifer Hazelrigs - Rock Climbing (2009, Human Kinetics)

Rock Climbing Outdoor Adv entur es W ilderness Education Association Editors T imothy W . Kidd, PhD John Brown University Jennif er Hazelrigs, M Ed University of Arkansas H U MAN KI N ETI CS Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Rock climbing / Wilderness Education Association ; Timothy W . Kidd, Jennifer Hazelrigs, editors. p. cm. -- (Outdoor adventures) Includes bibliographical references. ISBN-13: 978-0-7360-6802-4 (soft cov er) ISBN-10: 0-7360-6802-3 (soft cov er) 1. Rock climbing. I. Kidd, T imothy W . II. Hazelrigs, Jennifer . III. W ilderness Education Asssociation (U.S.) GV200.2.R66 2009 796.522'3--dc22 2009018665 ISBN-10: 0-7360-6802-3 (print) ISBN-10: 0-7360-8642-0 (Adobe PDF) ISBN-13: 978-0-7360-6802-4 (print) ISBN-13: 978-0-7360-8642-4 (Adobe PDF) Copyright © 2009 by Human Kinetics, Inc. All rights reserved. Except for use in a revie w , the reproduction or utilization of this work in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now kno wn or hereafter inv ented, including xerography , photocopying, and recording, and in any information storage and retriev al system, is forbidden without the written permission of the publisher . This publication is written and published to provide accurate and authoritativ e information relev ant to the subject matter presented. It is published and sold with the understanding that the author and publisher are not engaged in rendering legal, medical, or other professional services by reason of their authorship or publica- tion of this work. If medical or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person should be sought. The W eb addresses cited in this text were current as of February 1, 2009 unless otherwise noted. Acquisitions Editor: Gayle Kassing, PhD; Developmental Editor: Melissa Feld; Assistant Editor: Rachel Brito; Copyeditor: Patrick Connolly; Proofr eader: Joanna Hatzopoulos; Permission Manager: Dalene Reeder; Graphic Designer: Nancy Rasmus; Graphic Artist: Yv onne Griff ith; Cover Designer: Keith Blomberg; Photographer (cover): Jimmy Chin/National Geographic/Getty Images; Photographer (interior): Shullphoto, unless otherwise noted. See photo credits on pages 309-310. Photo Asset Manager: Laura Fitch; Visual Production Assistant: Joyce Brumfield; Photo Production Manager: Jason Allen; Art Manager: Kelly Hendren; Associate Art Manager: Alan L. W ilborn; Illustrator: Tim Brummett; Printer: United Graphics Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 The paper in this book is certified under a sustainable forestry program. Human Kinetics W eb site: www .HumanKinetics.com United States: Human Kinetics P .O. Box 5076 Champaign, IL 61825-5076 800-747-4457 e-mail: humank@hkusa.com Canada: Human Kinetics 475 Dev onshire Road Unit 100 W indsor, ON N8Y 2L5 800-465-7301 (in Canada only) e-mail: info@hkcanada.com Eur ope: Human Kinetics 107 Bradford Road, Stanningley Leeds LS28 6A T , United Kingdom +44 (0) 113 255 5665 e-mail: hk@hkeurope.com Austr alia: Human Kinetics 57A Price A v enue Lower Mitcham, South Australia 5062 08 8372 0999 e-mail: info@hkaustralia.com New Zealand: Human Kinetics Division of Sports Distrib utors NZ Ltd. P .O. Box 300 226 Albany North Shore City , Auckland 0064 9 448 1207 e-mail: info@humankinetics.co.nz iii Contents in Brief Preface vii P ART I Pr epar ing for a R ock Cli mbi ng Ad vent ure C HAPTE R 1 Going Rock Climbing 3 C HAPTE R 2 Climbing Into Fitness 23 C HAPTE R 3 Indoor Climbing 45 C HAPTE R 4 Know Before Y ou Go 65 C HAPTE R 5 Gearing Up for Rock Climbing 9 7 P ART I I On the Rock C HAPTE R 6 Knots for Climbing 125 C HAPTE R 7 Managing F riction: The Skill of Belaying 159 C HAPTE R 8 Building Climbing Anchor Systems 17 7 C HAPTE R 9 Strength and Grace: T echniques for Movement on Rock 205 C HAPTE R 10 Descending 229 C HAPTE R 11 Lead Rock Climbing 25 7 W eb Resources 288 Success Checks 296 Photo Credits 30 9 References 311 About the Editors 315 About the Contributors 316 iv Contents Preface vii P ART I Preparing for a Rock Climbing Adventure C HAPTE R 1 Going Rock Climbing 3 Timothy W . Kidd, PhD and Jennifer Hazelrigs, M Ed History of Rock Climbing 4 \u2022 Styles of Roc k Climbing 5 \u2022 Fin ding Place s to Climb 11 \u2022 Be nefit s of Roc k Cli mbing 14 \u2022 Outdoor Ethics 16 \u2022 Information on Basic Access 20 \u2022 Getting Started in Rock Climbing 20 \u2022 Summary 22 C HAPTE R 2 Climbing Into Fitness 23 Scott Drum, PhD W hat Constitutes Fitness? 24 \u2022 Proper Nutrition and Hydra - tion for Climbing 33 \u2022 Physiological Responses to Climbing 35 \u2022 Musculoskeletal Injuries and Rock Climbing 36 \u2022 Mus - cular Fitness and Cardiorespiratory Endurance T raining for Rock Climbers 37 \u2022 Summary 44 C HAPTE R 3 Indoor Climbing 45 Geoff Harrison, MS Inception of Indoor Climbing 46 \u2022 Indoor Climbing Facilities 46 \u2022 T ypes of Climbing W alls 4 8 \u2022 Climbing W all F eatures 49 \u2022 Anchors for Indoor Climbing 54 \u2022 Programming 59 \u2022 Summary 63 C HAPTE R 4 Know Before Y ou Go 65 Nathan Helweg, PhD and Kelli K. McMahan, MS Free-Climbing Rating Systems 6 8 \u2022 Bouldering Rating System 69 \u2022 Selecting a Location 7 1 \u2022 Planning and Pre - trip Logistics 7 5 \u2022 W hat to Bring 84 \u2022 P ersonal Climbing Safety 88 \u2022 Climbing Etiquette 92 \u2022 Summary 93 C HAPTE R 5 Gearing Up for Rock Climbing 9 7 T om Holman, PhD and Craig Elder , PhD Climbing Ropes 98 \u2022 W ebbing and Accessory Cord 102 \u2022 Hardware 104 \u2022 P ersonal Gear and Clothing 112 \u2022 Sum - mary 121 v P ART I I On the Rock C HAPTE R 6 Knots for Climbing 125 David Sperry , MS Basic T erms and Concepts in K not T ying 126 \u2022 Attac h - ing the Rope to Y our Harness 128 \u2022 Knots for A ttaching Y ourself to an Anchor and K nots for Building Anchors 138 \u2022 Knots for Creating L oops or T ying T wo Ropes T ogether 145 \u2022 Safety and Rescue K nots 14 9 \u2022 Summary 15 7 C HAPTE R 7 Managing Friction: The Skill of Belaying 159 Mat Erpelding, MA and R. Jared Skaggs Belay Equipment 160 \u2022 Maximizing Friction: The T ec hni - cal Skill of Belaying 162 \u2022 Origins of Modern Belaying: Hip Bel ay 163 \u2022 S ling shot Bela y 1 63 \u2022 L ead Bela ying 168 \u2022 T op Belaying 16 9 \u2022 Additional Belaying Alternatives 17 0 \u2022 Communication T echniques: Minimizing F riction Between Partners 17 3 \u2022 Summary 175 C HAPTE R 8 Building Climbing Anchor Systems 17 7 Christian Bisson, EdD W hat Are Climbing Anchor Systems? 17 8 \u2022 P urpose of an Anchor System 17 9 \u2022 Principles of Safe Climbing Anc hor Systems 180 \u2022 The Art of Building Anchor Systems 182 \u2022 Sequencing Y our Actions W hen Building an Anchor System 183 \u2022 The Science Behind Anc hor Systems 185 \u2022 Scoring Scheme for Designing and Assessing Anc hor Systems 18 7 \u2022 Shock L oading Anchor P oints 193 \u2022 Multipitch Climb Anc hor System 194 \u2022 Building an Anchor System W ith Opposing Anchor P oints 194 \u2022 Examples of Classic Anc hor Systems 196 \u2022 Summary 204 C HAPTE R 9 St reng th a nd G race: T ec hniq ues f or M ovem ent on R ock 205 International Wilderness L eadership School (IWL S) Gen eral Tip s and T ec hniqu es 2 0 6 \u2022 Ro ck F eatur es 2 10 \u2022 Face Climbing 211 \u2022 Crac k Climbing 218 \u2022 Overhang Climbing 224 \u2022 At Rest 225 \u2022 Climbing Saf ely 227 \u2022 Summary 228 vi C HAPTE R 10 Des cend ing 229 Jennifer Hopper , M S W alk- Offs 230 \u2022 Downclimbing 23 0 \u2022 L owering 23 0 \u2022 Rappelling or Abseiling 232 \u2022 Summary 255 C HAPTE R 11 L ead Rock Cli mbin g 25 7 Frank Niles, PhD and L ester R. Zook, EdD T raditional Lead Climbing 258 \u2022 Sport Climbing 27 3 \u2022 Summary 286 W eb Resources 288 Success Checks 296 Photo Credits 30 9 References 311 About the Editors 315 About the Contributors 316 vii Preface W elcome to Rock Climbing . W e hope you find this resource beneficial for your immedi- ate interests in climbing and as a reference tool as you progress as a climber . This book is designed for the climber who wants to learn the foundational concepts of top-rope climb ing, traditio nal c limbing, sport clim bing, boulderi ng, a nd cl imbing indoors . Thi s tex t also serves as a supplemental resource for a secondary physical education curriculum or an introductory rock climbing class at the collegiate level. Rock Climbing, along with Hiking and Backpacking, are part of the Outdoor Adventure series and have been written in cooperation with the W ilderness Education Association (WEA). WEA was founded in 1977 and serves as a nonprofit organization to promote the professionalism of outdoor leadership through the establishment of national stan- dards, curriculum design, implementation, advocacy , and research-driven initiatives. WEA has over 40 affiliates, including both university and wilderness programs that offer WEA-sanctioned courses. WEA also fosters strategic alliances with federal land management agencies, conservation groups, and outdoor enthusiasts to support and sustain the wildlands of the world. Rock Climbing is composed of two parts. Part I, Preparing for a Rock Climbing Adven- ture, contains five rich chapters. Chapter 1 presents an overview and history of climbing, areas to climb, introduction to Leave No T race principles, and safety concerns related to climbing. Chapter 2 is loaded with fitness-related topics, including sample exercises, nutrition, injury prevention, stretching, and training plans. Chapter 3 contains infor - mation on the various structures, educational classes, and recreational opportunities in an indoor climbing environment. Chapter 4 presents types of climbing, information on selecting areas to climb, and the nuts and bolts of planning for a safe climbing trip. Chapter 5 provides important information about the appropriate equipment for the various types of climbing you have chosen to pursue. Part II is On the Rock. Chapter 6 presents knots, knots, and more knots with detailed instructions and photos on the correct ways to tie them and on their applications in various climbing situations. Chapter 7 provides information on equipment related to belaying, various belay techniques and the associated applications, and common communication terms. Chapter 8 presents the concepts of natural and artificial anchor systems and explains how to set them. Chapter 9 contains information on proper climbing technique on varying terrain and tips on becoming more graceful on the rock. Chapter 10 contains information on descending safely and efficiently after you have topped out. Chapter 11 is an introduction to the fundamentals of lead climbing, including both sport and trad climbing and the importance of ongoing training from a professionally trained guide or recognized organization. In all 11 chapters you\u2019ll find chapter -opening quotes, highlighted tips, colorful images to illustrate key concepts, summaries to recap important information, and success checks to help you retain the content of each chapter . viii Preface W e hope you enjoy Rock Climbing and that you find it informative as you explore the sport of rock climbing. W e emphasize that rock climbing is a technical sport and no text can replace training received from professional instructors. This book provides you with a foundational knowledge of rock climbing so that you can develop your skills under the guidance of a professional instructor . So be safe, know your limitations, obtain training from an instructor , have fun, and pull hard. W arning: Extreme risks exist in climbing, and serious injury or death can result. Although climbing is an enjoyable sport and the potential of injury or death can be minimized, the sport demands formal and competent training from a professional. Whether you are top-rope climbing, traditional climbing, sport climbing, bouldering, or climbin g indoors, the sport requires a continuous skill base, repetiti on of sound practices, and numerous field experiences. Safety is the most important concern in any outdoor endeavor , particularly in climbing. This book is to be used as a reference tool only . It is not to replace or substitute professional training and field experiences. As the reader , you assume full responsibility of your own climbing safety , and you assume the risks associated with climbing. Be responsible: Get training, stay current on products and techniques, and know your limitations. P ART I Preparing for a Rock Climbing Adventure This page intentionally left blank.

[Outdoor Adventures Series] Wilderness Education Association, Timothy Kidd, Jennifer Hazelrigs - Rock Climbing (2009, Human Kinetics)

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