ADITIVOS REOLÓGICOS EM COSMÉTICOS

Prévia do material em texto

p u r e i n co s m e t i c s
Rheological Additives 
in Cosmetics
INCI References 
 AQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES 
BENTONE® MA Hectorite 
BENTONE® EW Hectorite 
BENTONE® LT Hectorite, Hydroxyethylcellulose 
 NON-AQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES 
• POwDERS 
BENTONE® 27 V Stearalkonium Hectorite 
BENTONE® 38 V Disteardimonium Hectorite 
THIXCIN® R Trihydroxystearin 
 MASTERGELS 
• SOLVENTS/OILS 
BENTONE GEL® CAO V Ricinus Communis, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® SS71 V Petroleum Distallates, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® DOA V Dioctyl Adipate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® EUG V Octyldodecanol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® GTCC V Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® HSO V Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® IHD V lsohexadecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® IPM V lsopropyl Myristate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® ISD V lsododecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® LOI V Lanolin Oil, lsopropyl Palmitate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® MIO V Mineral Oil, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® OMS V C11-12 lsoparaffin, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat 
BENTONE GEL® OP V Octyl Palmitate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® PTIS V Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate
BENTONE GEL® PTM V Phenyl Trimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Triethyl Citrate 
BENTONE GEL® TN V C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® YVS V Mineral Oil, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat 
 
• VOLATILE SILICONE 
BENTONE GEL® VS-5V Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat 
BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® VS-IPM V Cyclopentasiloxane, lsopropyl Myristate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat
 Some of the products described within this brochure may not be available in all countries. 
 Please check local availability with your ELEMENTIS Specialties sales office or distributor. 
 Above list is a product guideline.
 BENTONE® EW, BENTONE® 27 V and BENTONE® 38 V are also available as irradiated grades for controlled mircobial content. 
 Tailor-made products are available on request. 
p u r e i n co s m e t i c s
Before using any of our products please consult our Safety Data Sheets. 
The information in this publication is, to the best of our knowledge, 
true and accurate, but since the conditions of use are beyond our control, 
no warranty is given or to be implied in respect of such information. 
In every case, caution must be exercised to avoid violation or infringement 
of statutory obligations and any rights belonging to a third party. 
We are, at all time, willing to study customers’ specific outlets involving 
our products in order to enable their most effective use. 
 ELEMENTIS Specialties 
 Consumer Products 
EUROPE Pegasuspark
 De Kleetlaan 12 A, bus 3
 B-1831 Diegem, Belgium
 Tel: +32 2 790 76 00
 Fax: +32 2 790 76 60
 e-mail: consumer@elementis-eu.com
 Technical Centre
 ELEMENTIS GmbH
 Stolberger Strasse 370
 50933 Cologne
 Germany
 Tel: +49 (0)221 485 2900
 Fax: +49 (0)221 485 2910 
U.S. P.O. Box 700 - Hightstown 
 NJ 08520 - USA 
 Tel: +1 609 443 2500 - 
 Fax: +1 609 443 2422 
 e-mail: consumer@elementis-eu.com 
Visit our website: 
www.elementis-specialties.com
Local representative
ELEMENTIS
Specialties
Rheological Additives 
for Cosmetics
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 Highly recommended Recommended 
Applications
Properties imparted by 
Applications ELEMENTIS Specialties 
products
Aqueous-phase 
Thickeners
Antiperspirant Aerosol
 Roll-on 
 Stick 
 Cream 
Deodorant Roll-on 
 Stick 
Eye Cosmetics Shadow Solvent-borne 
 Emulsion 
 Pencil 
 Mascara Solvent-borne 
 Emulsion 
Lip Products Lipstick 
 Gloss Roll-on 
 Pot 
 Chapstick 
Make-up Blushers & Foundations 
Pressed Powders 
Skin Care Creams-O/W 
 Creams-W/O 
 Creams-cold process 
 Lotions 
 Ointments 
 Hand cleansers 
Sun Care Creams-O/W 
 Creams-W/O 
 Lotions 
 Oils 
 Covert UV protection 
 Sunblock sticks 
 After-sun 
Hair Care Creams & Dressings 
 Shampoos 
 Conditioners 
Nail Polish 
 P
ro
du
ct
s
Non-aqueous-phase 
Thickeners
Today’s successful cosmetics products 
need the right rheological properties. 
And the correct choice of rheological additive 
enhances the product in production, 
storage stability and application. 
ELEMENTIS Specialties rheological additives 
for aqueous and non-aqueous formulations 
are valuable and proven tools for you to use. 
Personal care, skin care, sun care 
and decorative cosmetics; 
single-phase, suspension or emulsion; 
all can benefit from 
ELEMENTIS Specialties 
rheological additives. 
p u r e i n co s m e t i c s
Personal Care 
Skin Care 
Sun Care 
Decorative Cosmetics
Sample formulation guides are available upon request
Contents 
Introduction 2 
Cosmetics and Rheology 4 
ELEMENTIS Specialties Rheological Additives 6 
Hectorite - The Benefits 6 
Aqueous-Phase Additives 7 
 •	BENTONE® Hydrophilic Clays 7 
Non-Aqueous-Phase Additives 9 
 • BENTONE® Organophilic Clays 9 
 • BENTONE GEL® 10/11 
 • THIXCIN® R Rheological Additive 12 
Product Application and Selection 13
Incorporation & Equipment Guideline 14 
INCI References 15 
Applications Table 16/17 
BENTONE®
BENTONE GEL®
NANOX™
THIXCIN®
are trade names of 
ELEMENTIS Specialties
Rheology is the science of flow. Every time a lotion is 
poured, a cream squeezed from a tube or a lipstick 
applied, rheology is involved. Even when products are 
at rest, it plays an important part in controlling 
stability and suspension. 
Understanding a formulation’s rheological needs 
enables you to create the best possible products. 
The rheology of a system is described 
in terms of its viscosity. 
Viscosity is the resistance to flow and defined as:Shear stress is the force per unit area applied and 
shear rate is the resulting velocity gradient. 
Cosmetics experience shear rates varying 
from 0.001 s-1, from gravitational forces; 
to over 20,000 s-1, when a cream is spread or 
an aerosol antiperspirant sprayed (Fig 1). 
Cosmetics and Rheology
Strong partners to create the best possible products
The way the viscosity changes at varying shear rates 
greatly influences the overall product stability and 
performance. A material which maintains a constant 
viscosity, regardless of shear rate, has Newtonian flow 
(Fig.2). Dilatant flow (Fig.2) is a form where viscosity 
increases with shear, sometimes encountered in highly 
pigmented/filled systems. 
Pseudoplastic flow (Fig. 4), also known as shear thinning 
behaviour, and typical of many commercial systems, 
is when viscosity decreases with increasing shear rate. 
Flow may require a specific stress to be initiated. This 
particular stress value is known as the yield point.
A system having both shear thinning flow and a yield
point can be described as having plastic flow.
The rate of recovery of a system when stress is 
removed is also very important. When a shear 
thinning system shows delayed viscosity 
recovery, it is described as thixotropic (Fig.3). 
This is one of the most important types of flow in 
cosmetics. Controlling the degree of thixotropy 
enhances the application of a cream, eliminates 
dripping of a roll-on antiperspirant or allows 
brushmarks in a coat of nail lacquer to disappear, 
leaving a smooth film. 
Viscosity can be temperature dependent. 
Correct choice of rheological additive allows you to 
create the ideal flow characteristics (Fig. 1) and 
also achieve thermostable rheology. 
5
ELEMENTIS Specialties rheological additives can be 
broadly divided between aqueous-phase thickeners 
and non-aqueous-phase thickeners. 
But it is important to remember the advantages 
of oil-phase viscosity modification that can greatly 
improve emulsion based products. 
ELEMENTIS Specialties additives for cosmetics are 
based on naturally occurring materials: 
highly refined and beneficiated 
hectorite clay or castor oil derivatives. 
ELEMENTIS Specialties 
Rheological Additives 
for Cosmetics 
Improving aqueous, organic and 
emulsion-based products
 Hectorite - The benefits 
Hectorite is a unique swelling clay offering several 
advantages. Hectorite’s special properties, compared 
with bentonite, are: 
• lower iron content • lighter colour •	higher swelling capacity •	greater gel strength •	no crystalline silica
Due to its small size, platelet shape and large surface 
area, hectorite is able to form strong, stable viscous gels. 
Hectorite is a very effective thickener of water. Because 
of this and its other exceptional properties, it forms the 
basis of the BENTONE® hydrophilic clays. 
 BENTONE® Hydrophilic Clays
BENTONE® MA, EW, and LT rheological additives 
provide thixotropy and suspension control to the 
aqueous phase. 
BENTONE® MA and EW additives form gels by producing 
an open, 3-dimensional network of the individual clay 
platelets as shown in Figure 5. 
The two products are stable across the range pH 6-11 
and offer good tolerance to electrolytes. 
BENTONE® LT forms a similar network, 
but it is strengthened by the presence of a special 
cellulose, greatly enhancing stability and thickening 
characteristics. BENTONE® LT is stable across a 
broader range, pH 3-11, and is also the least 
electrolyte-sensitive product. 
BENTONE® MA and EW are in compliance with ECOCERT; 
The ecological and organic cosmetics standards.
Aqueous-Phase Additives
7
p u r e i n co s m e t i c s
INCORPORATION Hydrophilic Clays 
Wetting • Medium to high-shear mixing • Add clay to water before addition of other 
 ingredients • Disperse at moderate pH 
Shear • Low shear (< 10 ms-1) 
 = long mixing time (> 30 mins) • High shear (> 15 ms-1) 
 = shorter mixing time (10-15 mins) 
Time • 10 minutes hydration before adding other 
 ingredients 
Heat 
Water at up to 60°C (140°F) reduces hydration time 
It is important to have only unadulterated water 
present at the dispersion stage. Surfactants or 
electrolytes should not be added until dispersion is 
completed 
For additional guidance see page 14
BENTONE® rheological additives are non-abrasive. 
The skin feel imparted by BENTONE® hydrophilic clays 
is a pleasant silkiness, quite different to that 
associated with the majority of cellulose, polymer 
and polysaccharide-based thickeners. 
Furthermore, as hectorite itself is insensitive to 
temperature variations, the BENTONE® products impart 
a thermostable viscosity control. 
Surfactants can influence the rheological behaviour 
of hydrophilic clays. 
Non-ionic surfactants, if they are highly ethoxylated, 
can adsorb onto the clay surface. This rarely causes 
problems either in flow control or activity of the 
formulation. 
Anionic surfactants can act as dispersing agents and 
weaken the gel structure. Alternatives that eliminate 
or minimise any problems can normally be found. 
However, cationic surfactants interact strongly and 
should be avoided. 
Organic and silicone-based liquids used in oil and 
wax-based cosmetics, and as the non-aqueous-phase in 
emulsions, benefit greatly from ELEMENTIS Specialties 
rheological additives. Outstanding rheological 
properties are developed using BENTONE® organoclay 
rheological additives in their powder form or, 
even better, with BENTONE GEL® additives, their 
predispersed forms. 
The benefits gained are: 
• thermostable viscosity control • thixotropic flow • suspension control of pigments and actives • emulsion stabilisation • silky skin feel 
 BENTONE® Organophilic Clays 
Hectorite is now reacted with special vegetable 
quaternary ammonium salts to produce organoclays 
able to thicken and gel organic liquids. The correct 
choice of BENTONE® additive is determined largely by 
the polarity of the system to be thickened. 
Additive Application
 
BENTONE® 27 V •	Intermediate to high-polarity 
 organic systems such as esters 
 and triglycerides - for nail lacquers, 
 skin care, antiperspirants and 
 lip products
BENTONE® 38 V •	Low to intermediate-polarity 
 organic systems such as volatile 
 silicones and mineral oil - for 
 antiperspirants, creams, lotions, 
 eye products and suntan products 
9
Non-Aqueous-Phase Additives
BENTONE® additives need to be efficiently dispersed 
using high-shear equipment and then to be activated 
with the optimum level of a chemical activator, such 
as propylene carbonate. 
BENTONE® organoclays form thixotropic gels by 
developing hydrogen bond bridges between the 
edges of adjacent platelets as shown in Figure 7. 
 BENTONE GEL® 
BENTONE GEL® additives are optimally dispersed 
and activated predispersions of ELEMENTIS Specialties 
organoclays. 
Benefits include: 
• optimally dispersed 
• high-shear dispersion not necessary 
• no polar activation required 
• easy to handle and use 
• can be added at any appropriate and 
 convenient stage in manufacture 
A wide range of gels made from various cosmetics oils, 
esters and solvents are available. 
The use of a BENTONE GEL® enables you, the formula-
tor, to achieve the maximum efficiency from the 
 organoclay without the need for careful shearing and 
 activation. On the production scale, time is saved 
 and the highest degree of reproducibility attained, 
 leading to potenial cost savings. 
INCORPORATION 
BENTONE GEL® additives can be added at any 
convenient suitable stage in the manufacturing cycle. 
BENTONE GEL® additives are very high-viscosity, shear 
thinning products. To ensure good homogeneous 
mixing is achieved, care mustbe taken to overcome 
large viscosity differentials existing between the 
BENTONE GEL® and the other lower-viscosity 
components. Choice of mixing equipment and the 
configuration within the mixing vessels are critical 
factors in developing the optimum performance of 
the BENTONE GEL® additive. The use of medium- to 
high-shear mixing equipment is recommended. 
For additional guidance see page 14 
Batch Processing 
•	Single-Phase Systems 
 Always add the BENTONE GEL®, under shear, 
 to a portion of the organic component or solvent 
 with which it is most compatible. Mix until 
 homogeneous before adding the other ingredients. 
•	Multi-Phase Systems (eg. emulsions) 
 As for the single phase, but always ensure the 
 BENTONE GEL® additive is thoroughly mixed in 
 before the emulsification stage. 
Continuous processing
The BENTONE GEL® should be added to the oil phase at 
any convenient point that meets the above guidelines 
for the batch processing. In multi-manifold systems, 
a flowable pre-mix of the BENTONE GEL® with a 
compatible oil or solvent should be made in a side pot.
Where only lower-shear mixing equipment is available, 
stir the BENTONE GEL® alone, in a small mixing vessel, 
if necessary, and then slowly add the most compatible 
component by portions, always ensuring the mixture is 
homogeneous at each stage. 
11
 THIXCIN® R Rheological Additive 
For the highest degree of thixotropy in aliphatic liquids, 
THIXCIN® R additive is the product to use. In addition to 
its effective rheological properties, it gives water 
repellency, stabilises emulsions and acts as a stiffening 
agent in lipsticks and ointments. It can also be used as 
a dry binder in pressed powder systems. 
(Where high-temperature resistance is needed, 
BENTONE® or BENTONE GEL® additives are 
recommended). 
THIXCIN® R is a castor oil derivative. It requires 
temperature-controlled activation within the range 
55-60°C (130-140°F) and high-shear mixing to develop 
its full structure. 
THIXCIN® R is in compliance with ECOCERT; The ecologi-
cal and organic cosmetics standards.
INCORPORATION THIXCIN® R additive
 
Wetting 
High-shear mixing 
Add THIXCIN® R to oil 
Disperse to deagglomerate 
Heat 
Temperature range 55-60°C (130-140°F) 
Shear 
Shear for 20 minutes within this temperature range 
to activate 
Cool 
Maintain shear to below 35°C (95°F) when cooling
For additional guidance see page 14
12
p u r e i n co s m e t i c s
Product Application 
and Selection 
Choosing the right 
rheological additive 
Cosmetic products range from pressed 
dry powders to suspensions in liquids; 
from single-phase solid or liquid 
formulations to emulsions. The choice 
of rheological additive and level of use 
depends on the system and the desired 
performance criteria (Table pages 20/21). 
The properties imparted by the rheological 
additive benefit different cosmetics in different 
ways. The advantages of using ELEMENTIS 
Specialties rheological additives are 
not always only the obvious ones, for instance: 
Stick products (lipstick and antiperspirant) 
• maintain homogeneity in molten and setting stages • gain improved pay-out • increase high-temperature integrity • eliminate oil migration • reduce “creasing” around lips and eyes 
Mascara 
• improve film-build • increase water-resistance • eliminate oil migration 
Emulsions 
• elevate drop-point temperature 
 of water-in-oil creams 
• eliminate syneresis • improve emulsion stability • enable cold-process emulsification • create novel viscosity effects 
UV Sunscreen 
• eliminate ultrafine Ti02 skin-whitening problems • enhance sun protection factor (SPF) • optimise use of sunscreen actives • reduce separation and settlement 
Antiperspirant Aerosols
• uniform distribution of active ingredients• soft and dry skin feel• significant less whitening• reduced separation and settlement
13
Incorporation & Equipment Guideline
Shear Development Low Low Medium Med-high Med-high Very high
Generic Type Paddle Propeller Planetary Rotor/stator Impeller Homogeniser
BENTONE® MA, BENTONE® EW and BENTONE® LT additives – powders needing high-energy mixing
Conditions Suitable only for Suitable for BENTONE® MA, EW, LT additive Suitable for
BENTONE® EW additive BENTONE®
Use highest speeds Use highest speeds and carefully MA, EW, LT 
(> 3000 rpm). observe optimum mixer/vessel additives.
configuration.
Order of addition Clean water and rheological additive only.
Avoid addition of surfactants or electrolytes until dispersion completed.
Special factors BENTONE® EW < 5 BENTONE® MA <10%
pH of water neutral. BENTONE® EW < 5%
Sift clay in gradually. Add BENTONE® LT < 4%
defoamers, if needed, only pH of water neutral.
after dispersion completed. Sift clay in gradually.
BENTONE® 27 V and BENTONE® 38 V additives – powders needing high-energy mixing
Conditions Unsuitable – Suitable for BENTONE® 27 V Recommended
insufficient shear. and 38 V additives. for
Use highest speeds and carefully BENTONE® 27 V
observe optimum mixer/vessel and 38 V 
configuration. additives.
Order of addition N/A Oil or solvent alone.
Add organoclay and disperse.
Add polar activator and continue dispersing.
Special factors N/A Ensure full wetting achieved before activation.
Use optimum level of polar activator.
Avoid the presence of surfactants until after activation.
BENTONE GEL® rheological additives – optimally dispersed and activated gels
Conditions Use maximum speed Use highest speeds and carefully Add gel to
and dilute gel stepwise observe optimum mixer/vessel vessel, apply
under shear. configuration. shear prior to
Min. 10 mins @ > 1500 rpm. adding other 
ingredients 
by increments.
Order of addition Gel first, then oil or solvent Add gel to portion of oil/solvent Add oil to
in ratio 60:40 gel to oil. under shear. Maintain shear gel stepwise.
Mix and add other until homogeneous.
components in steps.
Special factors Ensure mixture is Ensure mixture is homogeneous at each dilution stage.
homogeneous at each Particulate materials, such as antiperspirant salts
dilution stage until flowable will assist in the dispersion in low-viscosity media.
consistency achieved.
18
ELE-COS-BRO_EN 03-02-2003 16:52 Pagina 18
14
p u r e i n co s m e t i c s
Rheological Additives 
in Cosmetics
INCI References 
 AQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES 
BENTONE® MA Hectorite 
BENTONE® EW Hectorite 
BENTONE® LT Hectorite, Hydroxyethylcellulose 
 NON-AQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES 
• POwDERS 
BENTONE® 27 V Stearalkonium Hectorite 
BENTONE® 38 V Disteardimonium Hectorite 
THIXCIN® R Trihydroxystearin 
 MASTERGELS 
• SOLVENTS/OILS 
BENTONE GEL® CAO V Ricinus Communis, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® SS71 V Petroleum Distallates, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® DOA V Dioctyl Adipate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® EUG V Octyldodecanol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® GTCC V Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® HSO V Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® IHD V lsohexadecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® IPM V lsopropyl Myristate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® ISD V lsododecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® LOI V Lanolin Oil, lsopropyl Palmitate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® MIO V Mineral Oil, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® OMS V C11-12 lsoparaffin, Disteardimonium Hectorite,SD Alcohol Denat 
BENTONE GEL® OP V Octyl Palmitate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® PTIS V Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate
BENTONE GEL® PTM V Phenyl Trimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Triethyl Citrate 
BENTONE GEL® TN V C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® YVS V Mineral Oil, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat 
 
• VOLATILE SILICONE 
BENTONE GEL® VS-5V Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat 
BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® VS-IPM V Cyclopentasiloxane, lsopropyl Myristate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat
 Some of the products described within this brochure may not be available in all countries. 
 Please check local availability with your ELEMENTIS Specialties sales office or distributor. 
 Above list is a product guideline.
 BENTONE® EW, BENTONE® 27 V and BENTONE® 38 V are also available as irradiated grades for controlled mircobial content. 
 Tailor-made products are available on request. 
p u r e i n co s m e t i c s
Before using any of our products please consult our Safety Data Sheets. 
The information in this publication is, to the best of our knowledge, 
true and accurate, but since the conditions of use are beyond our control, 
no warranty is given or to be implied in respect of such information. 
In every case, caution must be exercised to avoid violation or infringement 
of statutory obligations and any rights belonging to a third party. 
We are, at all time, willing to study customers’ specific outlets involving 
our products in order to enable their most effective use. 
 ELEMENTIS Specialties 
 Consumer Products 
EUROPE Pegasuspark
 De Kleetlaan 12 A, bus 3
 B-1831 Diegem, Belgium
 Tel: +32 2 790 76 00
 Fax: +32 2 790 76 60
 e-mail: consumer@elementis-eu.com
 Technical Centre
 ELEMENTIS GmbH
 Stolberger Strasse 370
 50933 Cologne
 Germany
 Tel: +49 (0)221 485 2900
 Fax: +49 (0)221 485 2910 
U.S. P.O. Box 700 - Hightstown 
 NJ 08520 - USA 
 Tel: +1 609 443 2500 - 
 Fax: +1 609 443 2422 
 e-mail: consumer@elementis-eu.com 
Visit our website: 
www.elementis-specialties.com
Local representative
ELEMENTIS
Specialties
Rheological Additives 
for Cosmetics
St
ab
ili
ty
Su
sp
en
si
on
Th
ic
ke
ni
ng
/T
hi
xo
tr
op
y
Th
er
m
os
ta
bl
e 
rh
eo
lo
gy
Sk
in
 fe
el
 im
pr
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ac
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E®
 E
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TO
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E®
 LT
 
BE
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TO
N
E®
 2
7 
V
BE
N
TO
N
E®
 3
8 
V
TH
IX
CI
N
® 
R
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
SS
71
 V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
CA
O
 V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
D
O
A
 V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
EU
G
 V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
G
TC
C 
V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
H
SO
 V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
IH
D
 V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
IP
M
 V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
IS
D
 V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
LO
I V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
M
IO
 V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
O
M
S 
V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
O
P 
V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
PT
IS
 V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® 
PT
M
 V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® T
N
 V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® V
S-
5 
V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® V
S-
5P
C 
V
BE
N
TO
N
E 
G
EL
® V
S/
IP
M
 V
 Highly recommended Recommended 
Applications
Properties imparted by 
Applications ELEMENTIS Specialties 
products
Aqueous-phase 
Thickeners
Antiperspirant Aerosol
 Roll-on 
 Stick 
 Cream 
Deodorant Roll-on 
 Stick 
Eye Cosmetics Shadow Solvent-borne 
 Emulsion 
 Pencil 
 Mascara Solvent-borne 
 Emulsion 
Lip Products Lipstick 
 Gloss Roll-on 
 Pot 
 Chapstick 
Make-up Blushers & Foundations 
Pressed Powders 
Skin Care Creams-O/W 
 Creams-W/O 
 Creams-cold process 
 Lotions 
 Ointments 
 Hand cleansers 
Sun Care Creams-O/W 
 Creams-W/O 
 Lotions 
 Oils 
 Covert UV protection 
 Sunblock sticks 
 After-sun 
Hair Care Creams & Dressings 
 Shampoos 
 Conditioners 
Nail Polish 
 P
ro
du
ct
s
Non-aqueous-phase 
Thickeners
Today’s successful cosmetics products 
need the right rheological properties. 
And the correct choice of rheological additive 
enhances the product in production, 
storage stability and application. 
ELEMENTIS Specialties rheological additives 
for aqueous and non-aqueous formulations 
are valuable and proven tools for you to use. 
Personal care, skin care, sun care 
and decorative cosmetics; 
single-phase, suspension or emulsion; 
all can benefit from 
ELEMENTIS Specialties 
rheological additives. 
p u r e i n co s m e t i c s
Personal Care 
Skin Care 
Sun Care 
Decorative Cosmetics
Sample formulation guides are available upon request
p u r e i n co s m e t i c s
Rheological Additives 
in Cosmetics
INCI References 
 AQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES 
BENTONE® MA Hectorite 
BENTONE® EW Hectorite 
BENTONE® LT Hectorite, Hydroxyethylcellulose 
 NON-AQUEOUS-PHASE ADDITIVES 
• POwDERS 
BENTONE® 27 V Stearalkonium Hectorite 
BENTONE® 38 V Disteardimonium Hectorite 
THIXCIN® R Trihydroxystearin 
 MASTERGELS 
• SOLVENTS/OILS 
BENTONE GEL® CAO V Ricinus Communis, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® SS71 V Petroleum Distallates, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® DOA V Dioctyl Adipate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® EUG V Octyldodecanol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® GTCC V Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® HSO V Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® IHD V lsohexadecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® IPM V lsopropyl Myristate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® ISD V lsododecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® LOI V Lanolin Oil, lsopropyl Palmitate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® MIO V Mineral Oil, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® OMS V C11-12 lsoparaffin, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat 
BENTONE GEL® OP V Octyl Palmitate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® PTIS V Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate
BENTONE GEL® PTM V Phenyl Trimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Triethyl Citrate 
BENTONE GEL® TN V C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® YVS V Mineral Oil, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat 
 
• VOLATILE SILICONE 
BENTONE GEL® VS-5V Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat 
BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate 
BENTONE GEL® VS-IPM V Cyclopentasiloxane, lsopropyl Myristate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, SD Alcohol Denat
 Some of the products described within this brochure may not be available in all countries. 
 Please check local availability with your ELEMENTIS Specialties sales office or distributor. 
 Above list is a product guideline.
 BENTONE® EW, BENTONE® 27 V and BENTONE® 38 V are also available asirradiated grades for controlled mircobial content. 
 Tailor-made products are available on request. 
p u r e i n co s m e t i c s
Before using any of our products please consult our Safety Data Sheets. 
The information in this publication is, to the best of our knowledge, 
true and accurate, but since the conditions of use are beyond our control, 
no warranty is given or to be implied in respect of such information. 
In every case, caution must be exercised to avoid violation or infringement 
of statutory obligations and any rights belonging to a third party. 
We are, at all time, willing to study customers’ specific outlets involving 
our products in order to enable their most effective use. 
 ELEMENTIS Specialties 
 Consumer Products 
EUROPE Pegasuspark
 De Kleetlaan 12 A, bus 3
 B-1831 Diegem, Belgium
 Tel: +32 2 790 76 00
 Fax: +32 2 790 76 60
 e-mail: consumer@elementis-eu.com
 Technical Centre
 ELEMENTIS GmbH
 Stolberger Strasse 370
 50933 Cologne
 Germany
 Tel: +49 (0)221 485 2900
 Fax: +49 (0)221 485 2910 
U.S. P.O. Box 700 - Hightstown 
 NJ 08520 - USA 
 Tel: +1 609 443 2500 - 
 Fax: +1 609 443 2422 
 e-mail: consumer@elementis-eu.com 
Visit our website: 
www.elementis-specialties.com
Local representative