Prévia do material em texto
<p>Basketball Player</p><p>by Allison Hoffman</p><p>CraftyIsCool.com</p><p>info@craftyiscool.com</p><p>2021</p><p>2</p><p>Materials:</p><p>Worsted weight yarn</p><p>Flesh (AmiguruME SkinTones)(A)</p><p>Sock Color (B)</p><p>Shoe Color (C)</p><p>Sole Color (D)</p><p>Hair color (for edge of Hair Cap) (E)</p><p>Orange (for Basketball) (F)</p><p>Bulky weight yarn</p><p>Hair color (for Hair Cap and Hair) (G)</p><p>Sport weight yarn</p><p>Uniform color (H)</p><p>Uniform trim (I)</p><p>Black embroidery floss</p><p>Polyester stuffing</p><p>16 gauge armature wire</p><p>Colored Safety eyes, 9 or 10 mm</p><p>White felt</p><p>Scrap of dark pink colored yarn (lips)</p><p>Super glue (gel)</p><p>Craft glue (Fabri-tac, see resources)</p><p>Printable Iron-on Sheets</p><p>Optional: Small Neodymium Magnets</p><p>Tools/Notions:</p><p>D (3.0 mm) hook</p><p>E (3.5mm) hook (for Hair Cap)</p><p>B (2.25mm) hook (for fingers)</p><p>Yarn needle</p><p>Embroidery needle</p><p>Needle nose pliers/cutting tool</p><p>Key:</p><p>ch: Chain</p><p>sc: single crochet</p><p>hdc: half double crochet</p><p>dc: double crochet</p><p>st: stitch</p><p>invdec/sc2tog: invisible decrease;</p><p>single crochet 2 stitches together in</p><p>the front loop only of each stitch (you</p><p>may use sc2tog interchangeably)</p><p>bobble: Yarnover (yo), insert</p><p>hook into st, yo and pull up loop, yo</p><p>and pull through 2 loops. Rep two</p><p>more times into same st. 4 loops will</p><p>be on the hook. Yo and pull through all</p><p>loops---bobble made. One loop</p><p>remains on hook.</p><p>See Last Page for specific yarn recommendations.</p><p>Unless otherwise noted, rounds are worked in unjoined spirals. Use a stitch</p><p>marker if necessary to mark the beginning of each round.</p><p>Doll measures approximately 16” tall as written. With increases or decreases to</p><p>Legs, as noted in the pattern, doll can be taller or shorter.</p><p>Feel free to change the colors for different looks.</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>https://www.craftyiscool.com/yarn</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>3</p><p>Head:</p><p>Rnd 1: Starting at top of head with yarn A and a D Hook, make an adjustable</p><p>ring, ch 1, and sc 6 into the ring. Pull closed. (6 sts)</p><p>Rnd 2: 2 Sc into each st (12 sts)</p><p>Rnd 3: 2 Sc into each st (24 sts)</p><p>Rnd 4: *(2 Sc into next st, sc into next st), rep from * to end of rnd (36 sts)</p><p>Rnd 5: *(2 Sc into next st, sc into next 8 sts), rep from * to end of rnd (40 sts)</p><p>Rnds 6-8: Sc into each st (40 sts)</p><p>Rnd 9: *(Sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts), rep from * around (36 sts)</p><p>Rnds 10-11: Sc into each st (36 sts)</p><p>Rnd 12: *(Sc2tog, sc in next 10 sts), rep from * around (33 sts)</p><p>Rnd 13: Sc into each st (33 sts)</p><p>Rnd 14: Sc in next 16 sts, bobble in next st, sc in next 16 sts (33 sts)</p><p>Rnds 15-16: Sc in each st.</p><p>Rnd 17: *(Sc2tog, sc in next 9 sts), rep from * around (30 sts)</p><p>Rnd 18: Sc2tog 3 times, sc in next 18 sts, sc2tog 3 times (24 sts)</p><p>Rnd 19: Sc2tog 3 times, sc in next 12 sts, sc2tog 3 times (18 sts)</p><p>Rnd 20: Sc2tog 3 times, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog 3 times (12 sts)</p><p>*At this point you should insert a stitch marker to hold your place and stuff the</p><p>head. I definitely prefer to add the eyes later with a dab of superglue after</p><p>completing the Head and face sculpting (see below), but if you’d like to add them</p><p>now with the washer on the back, feel free to do so. Continue adding stuffing as</p><p>you stitch the last rounds if needed.</p><p>Rnd 21: Sc2tog around (6 sts)</p><p>Fasten off, leaving a long tail (12” long). Use a</p><p>yarn needle and the tail to sew the last round</p><p>closed. With the yarn needle, come up at the</p><p>place you want your eye, then back down into</p><p>the head and out through the bottom at Rnd 20.</p><p>(photos below) Pull tightly to sink eye in. If the</p><p>eye “socket” isn’t exactly where you’d like it, pull</p><p>the stitch out and repeat. When you pull it</p><p>through the bottom of the head, knot in place</p><p>and repeat for the second eye. Knot as for the</p><p>first eye, then weave in ends.</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>4</p><p>Legs:</p><p>You will crochet the Legs from the waist down next, then later crochet the Upper</p><p>Body onto the waist of the Legs and up. Refer to photos. You may stuff the Legs</p><p>as you go or wait until the end and stuff them from the top down to the Feet.</p><p>If you would like your doll to be wearing tight compression pants as shown in the</p><p>green-suited basketball player, you can crochet the Legs in the pants color of</p><p>your choice and then change to flesh color further down the leg.</p><p>IMPORTANT: If you want your Basketball player very tall, you will need to add</p><p>rounds of even stitches. The best places to do this will be after Rnd 12, Rnd 15,</p><p>etc, where you have repeating rounds. Likewise, for a shorter player, you can</p><p>decrease the number of repeating rounds in these same spots in the pattern.</p><p>Rnd 1: With yarn A (flesh) (or compression</p><p>pants color of your choice) and a D hook, ch</p><p>26. Form a ring by working 2 sc in first ch,</p><p>sc in next 12 chs, 2 sc in next ch, sc in last</p><p>12 chs in the ring (28 sts)</p><p>Rnd 2: 2 Sc in next 4 sts, sc in 20 sts, 2 sc</p><p>in next 4 sts (36 sts)</p><p>Rnd 3: 2 Sc in next st, sc in 6 sts, 2 sc in</p><p>next st, sc in 20 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in 6</p><p>sts, 2 sc in last st (40 sts)</p><p>Rnds 4-6: Sc in each st around.</p><p>Rnd 7: Sc2tog, sc in 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in 20</p><p>sts, sc2tog, sc in 6 sts, sc2tog (36 sts)</p><p>Rnd 8: Sc2tog, sc in 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in 20</p><p>sts, sc2tog, sc in 4 sts, sc2tog (32 sts)</p><p>*You will now start crocheting the Legs by</p><p>splitting the piece into two parts, called</p><p>“branching”.</p><p>First Leg</p><p>Rnd 9: Insert a stitch marker into the loop on your hook to mark the first stitch in</p><p>this round. Sc in 16 sts, skip remaining stitches in this round, ch 2 (16 sts, ch 2)</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>5</p><p>Rnd 10: Sc in first st of Rnd 9 (marked), and next 15 sts, sc in each ch st (18 sts)</p><p>Rnds 11-12: Sc in each st around (18 sts)</p><p>Rnd 13: 2 Sc in next st, sc in each st around (19 sts)</p><p>Rnds 14-15: Sc in each st around (19 sts)</p><p>Rnd 16: Sc2tog, sc in each st around (18 sts)</p><p>Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around (18 sts)</p><p>Rnd 19 (KNEE): Sc in 2 sts, sc2tog 4 times, sc in 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, 3 hdc in</p><p>next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in 3 sts (18 sts)</p><p>Rnd 20: Sc in 3 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in 3 sts, sc2tog, hdc3tog, sc2tog, sc in 3</p><p>sts (16 sts)</p><p>Rnd 21: Sc in 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in 11 sts (17 sts)</p><p>Rnds 22-23: Sc in each st around (17 sts)</p><p>Rnd 24: Sc in 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in 9 sts (16 sts)</p><p>Rnd 25: Sc in each st (16 sts)</p><p>Rnd 26: Sc in 2 sts, sc2tog twice, sc in 10 sts (14 sts)</p><p>Rnd 27: Sc in each st (14 sts)</p><p>Rnd 28: Sc2tog, sc in each st (13 sts)</p><p>Rnd 29: Sc2tog, sc in each st (12 sts)</p><p>Rnds 30-31: Sc in each st (12 sts)</p><p>*Change to sock color yarn B at the end of Rnd 31.</p><p>Rnd 32: Work a sl st in each st around. (This eases the transition between leg</p><p>color and sock color.) (12 sts)</p><p>Rnd 33: Sc in each st (working into sc of Rnd 31) (12 sts)</p><p>Rnd 34: Sc2tog, sc in each st (11 sts)</p><p>Rnd 35: Sc in each st (11 sts)</p><p>Rnd 36: Sc2tog, sc in each st (10 sts)</p><p>*Change to shoe color yarn C at the end of Rnd 36.</p><p>Rnd 37: Working in Front Loops Only (FLO), sc in 7 sts, 2</p><p>hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, sc in next st (12 sts)</p><p>Rnd 38: Working in unworked Back Loops Only (BLO) of</p><p>Rnd 36, ch 1, sc in each st around (10 sts)</p><p>Rnd 39: Working in both loops of each st, skip ch 1, sc in</p><p>each st around (10 sts)</p><p>Rnd 40: Sc in 6 sts, (hdc, hdc, dc) in next st, (dc, hdc,</p><p>hdc) in next st, sc in 2 sts (14 sts)</p><p>Rnd 41: Sc in 8 sts, (hdc, dc, dc) in next st, (dc, dc, hdc)</p><p>in next st, sc in 4 sts (18 sts)</p><p>Rnd 42: Sc in 10 sts, 3 hdc in next st, 3 hdc in next st, sc</p><p>in 6 sts (22 sts)</p><p>Rnd 43: Sc in 12 sts, 4 hdc in next st, 4 hdc in next st, sc</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>6</p><p>in 8 sts (28 sts)</p><p>*Depending on the doll’s shoe design, the next round can be worked in a</p><p>contrasting color.</p><p>Rnd 44: Sc in each st around (28 sts)</p><p>Fasten off and leave a short tail.</p><p>Second Leg</p><p>Rnd 9: Join yarn A (flesh, or other yarn for</p><p>compression pants) at the front of the Leg</p><p>opening with a sc. Sc in next 15 sts, then sc in</p><p>the ch 2 across the opening. Use the opposite</p><p>side of the ch (18 sts)</p><p>Rnds 10-12: Sc in each st around (18 sts)</p><p>Rnd 13: 2 Sc in next st, sc in each st around</p><p>(19 sts)</p><p>Rnds</p><p>14-15: Sc in each st around (19 sts)</p><p>Rnd 16: Sc2tog, sc in each st around (18 sts)</p><p>Rnds 17-18: Sc in each st around (18 sts)</p><p>Rnd 19 (KNEE): Sc in 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, 3</p><p>hdc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in 4 sts,</p><p>sc2tog 3 times (19 sts)</p><p>Rnd 20: Sc2tog, sc in 3 sts, sc2tog, hdc3tog,</p><p>sc2tog, sc in 5 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts (16 sts)</p><p>Rnd 21: Sc in 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in 11 sts</p><p>(17 sts)</p><p>Rnds 22-23 Sc in each st around (17 sts)</p><p>Rnd 24: Sc in 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in 9 sts (16 sts)</p><p>Rnd 25: Sc in each st (16 sts)</p><p>Rnd 26: Sc in 12 sts, sc2tog twice (14 sts)</p><p>Rnd 27: Sc in each st (14 sts)</p><p>Rnd 28: Sc2tog, sc in each st (13 sts)</p><p>Rnd 29: Sc2tog, sc in each st (12 sts)</p><p>Rnds 30-31: Sc in each st (12 sts)</p><p>*Change to sock color yarn B at the end of Rnd 31.</p><p>Rnd 32: Work a sl st in each st around. (This eases the transition between leg</p><p>color and sock color.) (12 sts)</p><p>Rnd 33: Sc in each st (working into sc of Rnd 30) (12 sts)</p><p>Rnd 34: Sc2tog, sc in each st (11 sts)</p><p>Rnd 35: Sc in each st (11 sts)</p><p>Rnd 36: Sc2tog, sc in each st (10 sts)</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>7</p><p>*Change to shoe color yarn C at the end of Rnd 36.</p><p>Rnd 37: Working in Front Loops Only (FLO), sc in 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in</p><p>next st (12 sts)</p><p>Rnd 38: Working in unworked Back Loops Only (BLO) of Rnd 36, ch 1, sc in</p><p>each st around (10 sts)</p><p>Rnd 39: Working in both loops of each st, skip ch 1, sc in each st around (10 sts)</p><p>Rnd 40: Sc in 8 sts, (hdc, hdc, dc) in next st, (dc, hdc, hdc) in next st (14 sts)</p><p>Rnd 41: Sc in 10 sts, (hdc, dc, dc) in next st, (dc, dc, hdc) in next st, sc in 2 sts</p><p>(18 sts)</p><p>Rnd 42: Sc in 12 sts, 3 hdc in next st, 3 hdc in next st, sc in 4 sts (22 sts)</p><p>Rnd 43: Sc in 14 sts, 4 hdc in next st, 4 hdc in next st, sc in 6 sts (28 sts)</p><p>*Depending on the doll’s shoe design, the next round can be worked in a</p><p>contrasting color.</p><p>Rnd 44: Sc in each st around (28 sts)</p><p>Fasten off and leave a short tail.</p><p>Stuff Legs lightly down to feet. Shape the stuffing so that it forms shapely legs,</p><p>cinched in at the knees and ankles. Legs will be wired later. Do not overstuff!</p><p>Upper Body:</p><p>The Upper Body is crocheted bottom-up directly onto the Legs at the waist.</p><p>Rnd 1: Starting at center back of waist of Legs, with a D Hook and yarn A, join</p><p>yarn with a sc, sc in each st around (28 sts)</p><p>Rnds 2-5: Sc in each st (28 sts)</p><p>Rnd 6: *(2 Sc in next st, sc in next 13 sts), repeat from * to end of rnd (30 sts)</p><p>Rnds 7-10: Sc in each st (30 sts)</p><p>Rnd 11: *(2 Sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts), repeat from * around (36 sts)</p><p>Rnds 12-14: Sc in each st (36 sts)</p><p>Rnd 15: *(2 Sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts), repeat from * around (40 sts)</p><p>Rnds 16-17: Sc in each st (40 sts)</p><p>Rnd 18: *(Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts), repeat from * around (30 sts)</p><p>Hold your place with a stitch marker. Stuff Upper Body and the top part of Legs.</p><p>Don’t stuff so much that stuffing shows through the stitches.</p><p>Rnd 19: Sc2tog around (15 sts)</p><p>Rnd 20: *(Sc2tog, sc in next st), repeat from * around (10 sts)</p><p>Rnds 21-24: Sc in each st (10 sts)</p><p>Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Insert stuffing to fill the neck.</p><p>Wiring:</p><p>The entire doll is wired for full posing capability. It enables the doll to sit down,</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>8</p><p>stand with support, look up and down, etc. I</p><p>use 16 gauge wire but 18 or 20 gauge wire</p><p>works fine too. Wire is found in the jewelry and</p><p>floral departments of craft stores.</p><p>Line up the doll pieces (Head and Body/Legs).</p><p>You will need a length of wire approximately</p><p>double the combined length of the doll, plus a</p><p>couple of inches. Cut the wire with wire cutters</p><p>and bend in half. The cut of wire I used is</p><p>about 30” long. Bend the wire piece in half,</p><p>bend each cut tip as shown, and then carefully</p><p>insert both cut ends of the wire through the</p><p>neck and feed down into the body and one</p><p>down each leg. This may take a lot of work.</p><p>When you have each end sticking into the</p><p>Feet, the top bend of the wire should be</p><p>sticking out of the neck of the doll several</p><p>inches.</p><p>Push the Head onto the wire and use a yarn needle and the tail from the Neck to</p><p>sew the two pieces together. The wire should extend into the Head enough to</p><p>fully support it and make the neck and head posable. (I usually try to make a hole</p><p>in the bottom of the Head with a crochet hook so that I will know where to insert</p><p>the wire.) Weave in ends.</p><p>Soles (Make 2):</p><p>Rnd 1: With shoe sole yarn color D, ch 7.</p><p>Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 4 chs, 5</p><p>sc in last ch, turning to work into opposite</p><p>side of ch, sc in 5 chs, 2 sc in turning ch</p><p>(17 sts)</p><p>Rnd 2: Sc in 7 sts, 2 hdc in next 3 sts, sc in</p><p>6 sts, 2 sc in last 2 sts (23 sts)</p><p>Fasten off and leave a long tail. Use the</p><p>yarn tail and a yarn needle to sew the</p><p>Soles to the Feet of the doll, bending the</p><p>wire and stuffing the Legs and Feet as you</p><p>close up the last stitches. Weave in ends.</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>9</p><p>Arms (Make 2):</p><p>Arms are crocheted separately, starting at the shoulder, then sewn on.</p><p>Rnd 1: With yarn A and a D hook, make an adjustable ring, ch 1, sc 9 in ring. Pull</p><p>tail to close ring (9 sts)</p><p>Rnd 2: *(2 Sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts), rep from * to end of rnd (12 sts)</p><p>Rnd 3: *(2 Sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts), rep from * to end of rnd (15 sts)</p><p>Rnds 4-7: Sc in each st (15 sts)</p><p>Rnd 8: *(Sc2tog, sc in next st), rep from * around (10 sts)</p><p>Rnd 9: *(2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts), rep from * to end of rnd (15 sts)</p><p>Rnd 10: Sc in each st (15 sts)</p><p>Rnd 11: Sc2tog, sc in each st (14 sts)</p><p>Rnd 12: Sc2tog, sc in each st (13 sts)</p><p>Rnds 13-14: Sc in each st (13 sts)</p><p>Rnd 15 (ELBOW): Sc2tog 4 times, sc in 5 sts (9 sts)</p><p>Rnd 16: 2 Sc in next 4 sts, sc in 5 sts (13 sts)</p><p>Rnd 17: Sc2tog, sc in each st (12 sts)</p><p>Rnd 18: Sc2tog, sc in each st (11 sts)</p><p>Rnds 19-20: Sc in each st (11 sts)</p><p>Rnd 21: Sc2tog, sc in each st (10 sts)</p><p>Rnds 22-24: Sc in each st (10 sts)</p><p>Rnd 25: Sc2tog, sc in each st (9 sts)</p><p>Rnd 26: Sc2tog, sc in each st (8 sts)</p><p>Rnd 27: *(2 Sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts),</p><p>rep from * around (10 sts)</p><p>Rnd 28: *(2 Sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts),</p><p>rep from * around (12 sts)</p><p>Rnds 29-30: Sc in each st (12 sts)</p><p>*You will now start splitting the piece into</p><p>fingers and will use the smaller B hook. The</p><p>First and Fourth Fingers are four rounds</p><p>long. The Second and Third Fingers are five</p><p>rounds long. A Thumb is crocheted</p><p>separately and sewn on.</p><p>First Finger (red lines show where to</p><p>stitch):</p><p>Rnd 31: Change to a B hook. 2 sc in next 2</p><p>sts. Leave remaining sts unworked (4 sts)</p><p>Rnd 32: Sc in 1st st of Rnd 31 and next 3 sts</p><p>(4 sts)</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>10</p><p>Rnds 33-34: Sc in each st (4 sts)</p><p>Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing the tip of the finger closed.</p><p>Stuff the Arm and hand.</p><p>Second Finger (yellow lines show where to stitch):</p><p>Rnd 31: Join yarn at st next to previous finger with a sc, sc in next st, skip sts all</p><p>the way around til the last 2 sts next to the first finger. Sc in last 2 sts (4 sts)</p><p>Rnds 32-35: Sc in 4 sts.</p><p>Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing the tip of the finger closed.</p><p>Third Finger (green lines show where to stitch):</p><p>Repeat as for Second Finger.</p><p>Fourth Finger:</p><p>Rnd 31: Join yarn with a sc in last st next to Third finger, sc in same st, 2 sc in</p><p>next st (4 sts)</p><p>Rnds 32-34: Sc in each st around (4 sts)</p><p>Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.</p><p>Before weaving in all ends there will be room to insert a small strong magnet into</p><p>the hand if desired, between the fingers and into the palm, which will contact with</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>11</p><p>a magnet in the Basketball. If you are making this for a child, SKIP THIS STEP.</p><p>They present a serious choking hazard. The magnet should be at least 6mm in</p><p>diameter so that it doesn’t come out easily. Make sure the magnetic part is in the</p><p>correct hand (is your doll right-handed or left-handed?) and that the magnetic</p><p>surface is</p><p>facing out. A regular weaker magnet will not be strong enough to</p><p>attract through two layers of yarn.</p><p>Weave in all the finger beginning and finishing tails with a yarn needle.</p><p>Thumb:</p><p>Rnd 1: With yarn A and a B</p><p>hook, make adjustable ring, ch</p><p>1, and sc 4 into ring. Pull tail</p><p>to close ring (4 sts)</p><p>Rnds 2-4: Sc in each st.</p><p>Fasten off and leave a long</p><p>tail. Sew Thumb to Hand as</p><p>shown. Weave in ends.</p><p>Cut a length of wire</p><p>approximately 13” long, or as</p><p>long as both arms and the</p><p>width of the Body. Bend one</p><p>end and insert into the</p><p>shoulder end of one Arm, and</p><p>feed it down into hand. Insert</p><p>into top side of Body and out</p><p>the other side, then bend the</p><p>end of the wire, insert into end</p><p>of Arm and feed it down into the hand. Trim wire when necessary. Use a yarn</p><p>needle and a length of yarn A to sew Arms into place at the shoulder. Weave in</p><p>ends.</p><p>For detailed instructions on crocheting a Hand, check out my YouTube tutorial</p><p>here: https://youtu.be/jInm8kWTv0g</p><p>Shorts:</p><p>The basketball shorts are crocheted separately and then placed on the doll. I</p><p>didn’t need to sew mine into place but you can if you’d like. I used lighter sport</p><p>weight yarn so that the fabric has a softer drape.</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>https://youtu.be/jInm8kWTv0g</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>12</p><p>Rnd 1: With sport weight yarn H and a D</p><p>hook, ch 32. Join to first ch with a sc and sc in</p><p>each ch around (32 sts)</p><p>Rnd 2: Sc in each st (32 sts)</p><p>Rnd 3: Working in BLO of each st, hdc in each</p><p>st around (32 sts)</p><p>Rnd 4: Working in both loops of each st, *(2</p><p>hdc in next st, hdc in next 15 sts), rep from *</p><p>around (34 sts)</p><p>Rnds 5-7: Hdc in each st (34 sts)</p><p>Rnd 8: *(2 Hdc in next st, hdc in next 16 sts),</p><p>rep from * around (36 sts)</p><p>Rnds 9-11: Hdc in each st (36 sts)</p><p>Rnd 12: *(2 Hdc in next st, hdc in next 17 sts),</p><p>rep from * around (38 sts)</p><p>Legs Split</p><p>Rnd 13: Place a stitch marker in the st</p><p>on your hook. Hdc in 19 sts, ch 4,</p><p>leave remaining sts unworked (19 sts,</p><p>ch 4)</p><p>Rnd 14: Hdc in marked stitch and next</p><p>18 sts, hdc in each ch across (23 sts)</p><p>Rnd 15: 2 Hdc in next st, hdc in each</p><p>st around (24 sts)</p><p>Rnds 16-18: Hdc in each st.</p><p>Rnd 19: 2 Sc in next st, sc in each st</p><p>around (25 sts)</p><p>Fasten off yarn H. Join contrasting</p><p>yarn I for trim with a sl st.</p><p>Rnd 20: Sl st in each st around (25</p><p>sts)</p><p>Fasten off yarn and weave in all ends.</p><p>Second Leg</p><p>Rnd 13: Join yarn H at the back of the Shorts at the first open st with a hdc, hdc</p><p>in next 18 sts around, hdc in the opposite side of the ch 4 (23 sts)</p><p>Rnd 14: Hdc in each st around (23 sts)</p><p>Rnd 15: 2 Hdc in next st, hdc in each st around (24 sts)</p><p>Rnds 16-18: Hdc in each st.</p><p>Rnd 19: 2 Sc in next st, sc in each st around (25 sts)</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>13</p><p>Fasten off yarn H. Join contrasting yarn I for trim with</p><p>a sl st.</p><p>Rnd 20: Sl st in each st around (25 sts)</p><p>Fasten off yarn and weave in all ends.</p><p>Slip Shorts onto Body.</p><p>Jersey:</p><p>The Jersey is crocheted in one long strip, starting at the bottom of the back</p><p>panel. You will join yarn to the front of the Jersey to complete the front panel,</p><p>then seam the sides together, crochet the neck and sleeve edging, put it on the</p><p>doll, and finally seam the front panel closed. Refer to photos for visuals for all of</p><p>this. Once sewn into place, the Jersey cannot be removed. The decals are ironed</p><p>on after putting it on the doll. This results in more accurate placement and</p><p>insures that the decals won’t stretch or tear.</p><p>Row 1: Starting at back bottom of Jersey with</p><p>a D hook and yarn H, ch 21. Hdc in 3rd ch</p><p>from hook and next 18 ch across (19 sts)</p><p>Rows 2-20: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each st across</p><p>(19 sts)</p><p>Row 21: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in 5 sts, leave</p><p>remaining sts unworked (5 sts)</p><p>Rows 22-24: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each st (5 sts)</p><p>Row 25: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in 4 sts, 2 hdc in last</p><p>st (6 sts)</p><p>Row 26: Ch 2, turn. 2 Hdc in first st, hdc in 5</p><p>sts, ch 4 (7 sts, 4 ch)</p><p>Row 27: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and next ch,</p><p>hdc in 6 sts, 2 hdc in last st (10 sts)</p><p>Row 28: Ch 12, turn. Hdc in 3rd ch from hook</p><p>and next 9 chs, hdc in 10 sts (20 sts)</p><p>Rows 29-41: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each st (20</p><p>sts)</p><p>Fasten off and leave a long tail.</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>14</p><p>Front Panel second shoulder</p><p>Row 21: Join yarn at the unworked end of Row 21 of the Jersey with a sl st, ch 2,</p><p>hdc in same st and next 4 sts across (5 sts)</p><p>Rows 22-24: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in each st (5 sts)</p><p>Row 25: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in 4 sts, 2 hdc in last st (6 sts)</p><p>Row 26: Ch 2, turn. 2 hdc in first st, hdc in 5 sts, ch 4 (7 sts, 4 ch)</p><p>Row 27: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and next ch, hdc in 6 sts, 2 hdc in last st (10</p><p>sts)</p><p>Fasten off and leave a long tail. Use a yarn needle and the yarn tail or a length of</p><p>matching yarn and seam the sides of the Jersey up to Row 25. Weave in ends.</p><p>Neck and Sleeve trim:</p><p>Join contrasting yarn I at the front center of Jersey</p><p>and sl st all the way around Neck opening. Fasten</p><p>off and leave a tail for weaving in.</p><p>Join contrasting yarn I at the sleeve opening on one</p><p>side, and at what will eventually be a sleeve opening</p><p>on the other side, and sl st around each evenly.</p><p>Fasten off and leave a tail for weaving in.</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>15</p><p>Pull Jersey up over the doll</p><p>from the feet and up. Push</p><p>Arms through the sleeves. Use</p><p>a yarn needle to seam</p><p>together the second shoulder</p><p>on the front panel. Weave in</p><p>ends. Use the yarn needle to</p><p>weave in all the ends of the</p><p>trim at the sleeves and neck.</p><p>Jersey Design:</p><p>While it is definitely possible to stitch letters and numbers by hand, I have found</p><p>the most precise way to design printed clothing is by using printable iron on</p><p>paper for dark fabrics. A Cricut is able to do this process using the Print and Cut</p><p>feature. Refer to your machine’s instruction manual.</p><p>Search online for images of your player’s</p><p>jersey—the NBA web shop is a great place to</p><p>find them. (If you aren’t making someone</p><p>famous you can use a good “varsity” font and</p><p>type out what you want in a document and</p><p>print it). Save the images and open them in a</p><p>word processing document. Size them how</p><p>you’d like (the words on my players’ jerseys</p><p>are about 2 3/4” wide) and print a test page.</p><p>Make sure everything is right and then print to</p><p>your iron on. The iron on paper needs to be</p><p>able to be fed through your printer, printed</p><p>directly on (not mirror image!) and cut out.</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>16</p><p>Cut only the words, symbols, and</p><p>numbers out. Peel off the backing. Lay the</p><p>printed and cut out image on the jersey</p><p>and iron into place with a small craft iron.</p><p>This cutting takes time but the detail it</p><p>gives the doll is worth it. Repeat for the</p><p>other side of the jersey.</p><p>Hair:</p><p>The Hair is composed of a Hair Cap that is sewn to the Head, and strands of</p><p>yarn are hooked into place and styled. The instructions below create regular</p><p>short haircuts. If you would like a different hairstyle, you can hook longer strands</p><p>and style it, using different textures of yarn. If you want the doll to be bald, skip</p><p>the next section.</p><p>In the examples I used a combination of bulky yarn and worsted. If you want to</p><p>use regular worsted weight yarn for the whole thing you can make the cap by</p><p>following Rnds 1-11 of the Head pattern with a D hook.</p><p>Hair Cap:</p><p>Rnd 1: Starting at top of Cap with bulky yarn G and an E Hook, make an</p><p>adjustable ring, ch 1, and sc 6 into the ring. Pull closed. (6 sts)</p><p>Rnd 2: 2 Sc into each st (12 sts)</p><p>Rnd 3: 2 Sc into each st (24 sts)</p><p>Rnd 4: *(2 Sc into next st, sc into next 3 sts), rep from * to end of rnd (30 sts)</p><p>Rnds 5-7: Sc in each st around (30 sts)</p><p>Rnd 8: Change to worsted weight yarn E and sc in each st (30 sts)</p><p>Rnds 9-10: Sc in each st (30 sts)</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>17</p><p>Fasten off and leave a very long tail. Position Cap on Head, tilted back at an</p><p>angle as shown. Use a yarn needle and sew the Cap</p><p>into place all the way</p><p>around. Weave in ends.</p><p>Cut approximately 20 strands of bulky yarn G measuring 12” in length. Fold the</p><p>strand in half and insert hook into front edge of the cap, pull up the center of a</p><p>strand and pull ends through the loop. Repeat along the front of the cap and all</p><p>over the top. For a full afro, attach strands around the back of the head too.</p><p>Unravel the strands and trim as desired.</p><p>Ears (Make 2):</p><p>Rnd 1: With yarn A and a D hook, make an adjustable ring, ch 1, sc 6 into ring.</p><p>Pull tail to close ring (6 sts)</p><p>Rnd 2: Sc in each st around.</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>18</p><p>Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.</p><p>Flatten each Ear. Sew each to side of Head,</p><p>aligned with eye sockets and overlapping the</p><p>Hair Cap. Weave in ends.</p><p>Eyes (Make 2):</p><p>If you are making this for a small child to play</p><p>with (not recommended) you should follow instructions to insert safety eyes and</p><p>washers when you are crocheting the Head in thebeginning.</p><p>Cut two small rectangles from white felt with a tiny snip in</p><p>the center, large enough to insert the post of an eye. Cut</p><p>around the eye to make an eye shape. Insert the post of</p><p>the eye into the Head at the “socket” created when you</p><p>made the Head. If everything lines up correctly (trim felt if</p><p>needed), apply a dab of superglue to the post of the eye</p><p>and a tiny bit to the felt. Insert into socket and hold in</p><p>place to secure.</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>19</p><p>For upper eyelid, thread a yarn needle with yarn A and</p><p>make a relatively loose stitch over the top of each eye as</p><p>shown. (A tight stitch will make its way behind the plastic</p><p>eye and a very loose stitch will fall down over the front of</p><p>the eye.)</p><p>For eyeliner (both male and female dolls look best with</p><p>this added, in my opinion), thread an embroidery needle</p><p>with black embroidery floss. Stitch loose stitches under</p><p>the yarn “eyelid” at the top of each eye. If necessary,</p><p>apply a VERY tiny bit of superglue along the edge of the</p><p>black floss and push into position. (Glue on the surface of</p><p>the plastic eye will ruin it so apply as little as possible and</p><p>as close to the edge as you can.)</p><p>For eyebrows, separate a strand of yarn E (Hair</p><p>Cap yarn) so that you have a finer yarn (or use</p><p>matching color yarn in a lighter weight). This</p><p>ensures perfect color matching. Stitch a loose</p><p>arching eyebrow above each eye. Weave in</p><p>ends.</p><p>Mouth:</p><p>For a toothy smile, cut a crescent shape from</p><p>white felt approximately 3/4” wide. Trim as</p><p>necessary. Glue into place.</p><p>For all smiles, thread a yarn needle with the</p><p>scrap of plum or light pink colored yarn. Starting</p><p>at the corner of the mouth, stitch a loose straight</p><p>stitch across the bottom of the mouth and then</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>20</p><p>two short stitches across the top of the mouth. Add a shorter loose stitch under</p><p>the bottom lip.</p><p>Thread an embroidery needle with black embroidery floss (3 strands). Starting</p><p>just outside left corner of mouth, stitch a loose straight stitch across mouth to</p><p>right corner of mouth.</p><p>Facial Hair:</p><p>For any facial hair, use worsted yarn. With a yarn needle, stitch short vertical</p><p>stitches. Refer to photos of the person and make a moustache, goatee, or full</p><p>beard with the same short stitches.</p><p>For stubble I like to use a permanent ink pen in the beard color, in this case</p><p>black. Use the pen to create a polka dot pattern all over the area with stubble.</p><p>Start with less than you think you’ll need. You can always add more.</p><p>Basketball:</p><p>To make the ball retain its shape, I have crocheted it with a smaller C hook. The</p><p>increases and decreases in the rounds below should be staggered so that the</p><p>ball stays round. I have put them all in the beginning of the rounds but you can</p><p>increase and decrease in different spots as long as you keep the correct stitch</p><p>count.</p><p>Rnd 1: Using a C hook and orange yarn F, make an adjustable ring, ch 1, sc 6</p><p>into ring. Pull tail to close ring (6 sts)</p><p>Rnd 2: Continuing in a spiral, 2 sc in each st (12 sts)</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>21</p><p>Rnd 3: *(2 Sc in next st, sc in next st), rep from * around (18 sts)</p><p>Rnd 4: *(2 Sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts), rep from * around (24 sts)</p><p>Rnd 5: *(2 Sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts), rep from * around (30 sts)</p><p>Rnds 6-10: Sc in each st around (30 sts)</p><p>Rnd 11: *(Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts), rep from * around (24 sts)</p><p>Rnd 12: *(Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts), rep from * around (18 sts)</p><p>Rnd 13: *(Sc2tog, sc in next st), rep from * around (12 sts)</p><p>Insert a stitch marker to hold your place. If desired, insert a magnet into the</p><p>basketball (NOT FOR CHILDREN’S TOY) (see Supplies above), then stuff the</p><p>ball firmly.</p><p>Rnd 14: Sc2tog around (6 sts)</p><p>Fasten off and leave a tail. Use a yarn needle to</p><p>weave the yarn tail through the last round, closing</p><p>the hole. Weave in ends.</p><p>Thread an embroidery needle with black</p><p>embroidery floss (4 strands) and create the line</p><p>pattern on the basketball using straight stitches.</p><p>Refer to photos. Looking at pictures of a real</p><p>basketball will help.</p><p>Finishing:</p><p>For shoelaces, stitch lines across the top of the</p><p>shoe with a yarn needle and yarn color of your</p><p>choice.</p><p>For shoe detailing, embroider designs with</p><p>embroidery floss and an embroidery needle. I</p><p>have posted a quick video on how to embroider a</p><p>swoosh HERE</p><p>Please let me know if you have any questions about this pattern, or if you need</p><p>any help. I’ve listed sources for many of the items used in the dolls but if you are</p><p>having trouble finding anything and need more help, please contact me. The</p><p>items you make from this pattern may be resold as long as credit is given as</p><p>“Pattern by Allison Hoffman, craftyiscool.com”.</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>https://www.instagram.com/reel/CUBoBvFjG4T/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>22</p><p>** Easy Shopping List for products used in this pattern (affiliate link) **</p><p>Basketball Player Materials Shopping</p><p>(Sometimes sellers on Amazon change established listings to different products. Make</p><p>sure to verify the correct item and description before purchasing!)</p><p>Yarn for #34</p><p>A: Flesh: AmiguruMe SkinTones, Tan 2 https://www.craftyiscool.com/yarn</p><p>B: Socks: Red Heart “Super Saver”, White</p><p>C: Shoes: Red Heart “Super Saver”, Buff, trimmed with RHSS in Lemon</p><p>D: Soles: Red Heart “Super Saver”, White</p><p>E: Hair Cap Edge: Red Heart “With Love”, Black</p><p>F: Basketball: Red Heart “Soft”, Tangerine</p><p>G: Hair Cap and Strands: Bernat “Softee Chunky”, Black</p><p>H: Uniform: Lion Brand “Pound of Love”, Hunter Green</p><p>I: Uniform Trim: Bernat “Softee Baby”, White</p><p>Yarn for #21</p><p>A: Flesh: AmiguruMe SkinTones, Dark 1 https://www.craftyiscool.com/yarn</p><p>B: Socks: Red Heart “Super Saver”, Blue</p><p>C: Shoes: Red Heart “Super Saver”, Blue</p><p>D: Soles: Red Heart “Super Saver”, Hot Red</p><p>E: Hair Cap Edge: Red Heart “With Love”, Black</p><p>F: Basketball: Red Heart “Soft”, Tangerine</p><p>G: Hair Cap and Strands: Bernat “Softee Chunky”, Black</p><p>H: Uniform: Cascade “220 Superwash Sport”, Blue Velvet</p><p>I: Uniform Trim: Bernat “Softee Baby”, White</p><p>Other Items —Most linked in Amazon lists above</p><p>Black embroidery floss: DMC 6-Strand Embroidery FlossPolyester stuffing:</p><p>Fairfield Poly-fil Premium Fiber, see Amazon link above</p><p>2 Brown 9 or 10mm safety eyes, see Amazon link above</p><p>White felt, see Amazon link above</p><p>16 gauge wire (to make doll posable), see Amazon link above</p><p>Scrap of plum colored yarn (lips)</p><p>Tiny iron, see Amazon link above</p><p>Magnets, see Amazon link above</p><p>Iron on sheets, see Amazon link above</p><p>copyright 2021 craftyiscool.com Allison Hoffman</p><p>http://craftyiscool.com</p><p>https://www.amazon.com/shop/craftyiscool?listId=XDRVN2IANO4P&ref=cm_sw_em_r_inf_list_own_craftyiscool_dp_eSKeHoy11NV1g</p><p>https://www.craftyiscool.com/yarn</p><p>https://www.craftyiscool.com/yarn</p>